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  1. Hi, I’m trying long exposure Photography using a 10 stop filter. I have 2 issues- firstly with noise reduction selected ‘ON’ and during an overcast day shooting a fast flowing river in Wales and using ‘B’ mode with cable release the actual exposure was 4 minutes, this was achieved by trying an exposure at say 1 min which resulted in black and thus increasing the time until it looked right on the scene and this History gram confirmed this. I then have to wait another 4 minutes for processing to take place removing ‘hot pixels’, which I get.But here’s the thing once noise reduction is turned ‘OFF’ the initial exposure drops dramatically to 45” ! I understand the processing isn’t being applied after but why has the initial exposure of 4 mins with it on, dropped to 45” whilst off ? At the time I was surprised it was as long as 4’ . what’s going on to make it sooooo long ?
  2. Hello. I just acquired a EF X20 Flash. I put it on the hot shoe but my XT2 (firmware 4.40) recognizes it as in sync terminal. So I can only acces the Manual mode (the TTL Mode in Flash Settings is grayed out). The flash does fire on Manual, but the TTL is not working. When I put the EF X8 Flash, it simply does not even fire. I am on single shot and mechanic shutter. Any ideas what might be happening? Thanks a lot!
  3. I have an XT2 with Godox X1TF and TT350F. I'm unable to get flash to sync faster than 1/250. I'm shooting with Auto FP, TTL and unable to change the camera to Manual flash. Pretty sure I'm missing something stupid here. Edit / with photos: I'm starting to think maybe I'm describing my problem incorrectly. First of all, I've already stated that FP and TTL are enabled. I've also been testing with the TT350F attached to the camera and I'm getting the same results. The real issue is that the exposure difference between 250 and 500 is quite dramatic. Like, one is too bright and one is too dark. This is more noticeable with smaller apertures with the subject further away. If I stop down to 2.8 and shoot a subject at 1M, the exposure between 250 and 500 is closer. Although, at 250, I'm definitely still seeing the effect of the flash (bright spot) where as at 500 I think I'm just getting a better exposure just because I've stopped down and the SS is faster than the flash. The following snapshots are both f8, iso200. 1/250 https://www.dropbox.com/s/yu2u6k7rhzmx5gj/250.png?dl=0 1/500 https://www.dropbox.com/s/3pjvc8wztx7qcrm/500.png?dl=0
  4. I'm curious to know how many weight will add the power boost grip with 2 batteries, anyone has heard something? can't find that spec.
  5. I was shooting some BTS images at a shoot the other day and and snapped a few facing the sun flaring the lens. I noticed this ugly sensor pattern once I brought the image into lightroom. I was shooting raw on the 50-140 (+1.4x converter). I did some research and saw it's been in other fuji cameras, does anyone know if there's a fix in the works for this? Hopefully the attached images show up.
  6. I am reposting this from another x forum as I am hoping Fuji will see this if no one has already requested: I love the auto focus - it's terrific- but, I feel TOO fast for cinematic-like focus pulls when one operator / cinephotographer is shooting moving picture work. It's a dead giveaway it's on auto, with one operator. I would like to make a feature request in a firmware update for two additional slower modes for continuous auto focusing: Just "slower" and "slowest" or maybe "cine", and thin slowest called something like "slow". The current snappy pull simply does not look like a typical focus pull for a filmmaker. It is set up for snap pulls- which can work for action - but optimized for stills work, less so for motion. Adding these options would be a huge benefit to single-person run and gun operators , eg those who shoot short film, documentary etc, and automagically also enable the operator to better adjust framing on the fly to help ensure the focus pull locks onto the intended target . . . . Adding this feature, plus FLOG to the SD card (PLEASE try to keep it 4:2:2!) would make the X-T2 KILLER. LOVING the XT2 so far. Richard
  7. Taken at 8:15 am on my way into work (I work at the port). We get some stunning sun rises over the River Thames on clearer mornings like this morning. This was my first 'real' photo (i.e. not just 'test' shots learning to find the shutter button!) with my XT2 & 18-55mm f/2.8-4.0 (coming from Nikon D600 FX camera with 17-35mm f/2.8). So far I am loving the size and weight of the X-T2.
  8. From the album: Fuji X-T2

    16-55mm/f2.8

    © JohnRourke/AdrenalMedia.com

  9. Hi guys, Hope you're all well. My Fuji randomly stopped turning on a few weeks ago. The screen turns on but not completely (as seen on the attachments). Changing to the Viewfinder also doesn't work, shutter doesn't go off...nothing works. When I turn it off, the screen stays on; I have to remove the battery for my camera to shut down. I've interchanged between my 3 batteries multiple times, and the problem persists. I've looked for solutions on forums, but never found anything that fits. Tried updating the firmware through an SD card but the camera won't even turn on for the update to begin in the first place. Any tips? I'd love to hear from you guys! Cheers, Ibra
  10. Hello, I have a quick question regarding the XT-2. I jumped from a Canon 40D to the XT-2 some time ago. I love the camera and the feel and output are fantastic for me. With that said, I have noticed that I have a harder time (on the Fuji) transferring what I see in my viewfinder to my computer screen. In other words there seems to be a disconnect between what I see in the computer and what I remember being in the viewfinder. I don't think it is a color or exposure issue, maybe a framing? Not quite sure. Do I simply need more experience with the camera? I'm using a 18-55 for both cameras. Thank you.
  11. Is anyone else having this problem? My XT2 works beautifully with my Godox flashes (two AD200s and one AD600) when my shutter speed is 500 or higher. But if I drop the shutter speed below 500, the flashes stop firing. I'm using the Godox XPro-F transmitter. So what I'm really wanting is "Low Speed Sync" so I can use my Godox flashes at speeds like 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, etc. Why I do not suspect the transmitter or flashes I can press the test button on the transmitter and the flashes fire I can put the same transmitter on my X100s and shoot at any shutter speed and the flashes fire successfully This makes the XT2 my prime suspect. Under the flash function setting menu, I do have Sync Mode set to AUTO FP(HSS) but I've tried the other settings with no success either (and didn't expect those to help anyway). I am in single shot mode and not using bracketing or multi-exposure features. And it doesn't matter if I manually turn off HSS via the menus on the flash units. Do you have any suggestions I can try next? Can you see if you are able to shoot and sync at 1/60 using your XT2 and Godox transmitter and flashes? Any help or suggestions will be thoroughly appreciated!
  12. Hey Guys, new to the forum, been a Fujifilm shooter for 2 years. I'm working on a video for a client and noticed when editing that I get very nasty artifacts/noise in certain areas of my video when grading. I don't know whether this is a camera issue, or grading issue. Below is a link to one of the shots in question - for comparison I have both the edited version, as well as the original (I know in this case the reds are where the problem is, but I've had the same issue in other areas in other shots). Has anyone else encountered this issue? I'm editing in premier, and only doing basic grading with lumetri color (curves, and basic correction). https://youtu.be/XCyUFutVrFo Thanks in advance. I really love shooting on fujifilm, but I can't seem to find a solution to this issue. I hope it's a stupid thing I'm overlooking.
  13. Hello, I am seriously thinking it's about time to upgrade my X-Pro1 to an X-T2, I don't need latest gimmicks nor super high res or movie features, for extra MP I use a FF Nikon camera which has plenty of pixels, Fuji is for lighter shooting like hiking, travel etc and as such, given how many people upgrading to the X-T3 the T2 reached a price tag which fits my budget. I see many T2 on American photography boards for sale but I live in the EU and the only reliable source I know is an online store in the UK (dunno if allowed here to past a link or a name so I just won't this time), is anybody aware of other trusted sources within the EU borders for used gear? Grazie Giovanni
  14. Hello Everyone, I just picked up an XT2 and this is my first Fuji camera, really excited about using it. I've been watching a lot of youtube videos and reading forum post to familiarize myself with the camera and its settings. I am very impressed by the film simulations but really confused on how to use them in conjunction with RAW files. I was under the impression that if I shoot RAW+JPEG(Fine/Norma) with a film simulation selected (e.g. Chrome). Simulation is applied to JPEG only and RAW file is pure raw without any processing that I can edit however I want in post processing. But I took the camera out for the first time and realized the film simulation is applied to both JPEG and RAW. Is there a way to shoot with film simulation applied to JPEG but get unprocessed RAW files from XT2? Thanks for everyone's help in advance!
  15. Hi everyone, This is my first post here and it concerns a strange issue i have been researching that i see others have been affected by as well. So far there has been no solution in any of various posts around the web. The problem is this: I have a barely used VPB grip for my XT-2. They were purchased at the same time. They are barely 4 weeks old in use, the grip much less so due to the issues. I have three of the newer batteries plus the one that comes with the camera. After fully charging all the batteries and putting the grip and camera together, the batteries in the grip displayed as fully depleted. Looking around online, some suggested flipping the booster switch, removing and reinserting the tray etc. None of the described "fixes" worked perfectly. I assumed this was a software fix that Fuji could roll out. I decided to try and use the grip and camera knowing that the batteries were actually full despite what the display read. However, this lead to even stranger behavior...such as the camera shutting itself off while focusing, or the joystick would not work on the grip but the shutter button would and other weird behavior. These issues were intermittent. They are not reproducible and i have tried my best to trouble shoot and get the root of the problem. As far as i can tell, the camera performs flawlessly...when the grip is NOT attached. I just came back from three weeks traveling around Europe taking hundreds of photos without any problems. So the grip is clearly the problem. Again, many others are experiencing this issue with the battery display and the grip so I am uncertain what next to do. I want a working grip. If it is just a bug that Fuji can squash I can wait for that update. If, on the other hand, i have an actual defective unit then i need to contact Fuji and get it replaced. I am writing to the Forum to get advice as to what to do. As i keep saying i know I am not alone and its hard to think that Fuji is selling lots of defective hardware so perhaps this is just a software issue that will be eventually corrected. What do you think? Any and all advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks for your help!
  16. After shooting several thousands of photos using the X-T2. I realized I don't like the joystick. It's too slow. When I press the joystick to one direction, the focus point moves too slowly. I shoot fashion/models mostly. So when the subject's head moves, I have to move the focus point to follow them. With the X-T1, I was able to mash the directional pads to move it. It was much faster than the joystick of X-T2. And no, I can't use face detect AF. I tried it, and it isn't fast enough, and it doesn't detect the face sometimes to make it useful for me. I think Fuji needs to release a firmware update to speed up the focus point movement with the joystick. What is everyone else's thoughts on the joystick?
  17. I have used cameras for a long time, none of them weather sealed, without any damage from water or dust.In fact I don't recall it even being an issue.But now I am deciding between an xt2 and xt20 ,mainly on this basis and the $700 price difference.I will never be out in the rain with this gear, but it will be exposed to ordinary dust, and perhaps high tropical humidity.I am leaning towards the xt20.This has perhaps been covered before, but I can't find a search function.
  18. Thought you all may be interested in seeing some super low light photos. I was using the 23 F2 but wish I had the 1.4 in this situation. (I used the 16mm 1.4 on the wide shots of the stages). I still think the camera managed the noise well. ...noise reduction in PS. Low Light Festival Portraits Majority of the photos were shot at 6400 and above. 1/3 of them were at 12800 - all handheld with no flash Obviously they wouldn’t be good for printing but I think good enough for the web. note: if you want to pixel peep first select the photo so it goes into the light box slideshow. Photos were exported from LR at 2000px long edge (not full resolution). Note note: some of you may know how to describe this better than me but an F2 on a crop sensor is equivalent to approx 3.2 on a full frame camera .. as well as lenses you also have to do the crop calculation on the F-stop is that correct?
  19. Hello there, I’m having problems figuring out why red indicator light on the back of my XT2 camera is always lit when camera is on. There are also no errors on the LCD. Sometimes the indicator light acts as normal (green when focus is locked, flashing when writing to SD Card), however 95% of time it just red.
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