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  1. Hi, I’m trying long exposure Photography using a 10 stop filter. I have 2 issues- firstly with noise reduction selected ‘ON’ and during an overcast day shooting a fast flowing river in Wales and using ‘B’ mode with cable release the actual exposure was 4 minutes, this was achieved by trying an exposure at say 1 min which resulted in black and thus increasing the time until it looked right on the scene and this History gram confirmed this. I then have to wait another 4 minutes for processing to take place removing ‘hot pixels’, which I get.But here’s the thing once noise reduction is turned ‘OFF’ the initial exposure drops dramatically to 45” ! I understand the processing isn’t being applied after but why has the initial exposure of 4 mins with it on, dropped to 45” whilst off ? At the time I was surprised it was as long as 4’ . what’s going on to make it sooooo long ?
  2. I'm curious to know how many weight will add the power boost grip with 2 batteries, anyone has heard something? can't find that spec.
  3. Hey there, I'm interested in finding some underwater housing for my new (yay!) XT2 but all I can find is housing for the XT1. Has anyone seen housing for the 2 yet? I'm assuming the 1 housing wont work as the dials are way different. Thanks
  4. Note the halo effect around the officer's face that creates a terrible "cardboard cutout effect". What is this, and what is it caused by? XT2, 56 f1.2, 1/320 @ 1.2 , ISO 2500, RAF as shown in Lightroom. No amount of "zeroing out" or sharpening, noise reduction, clarity, etc. has had any effect. Nor does changing the camera profile help me in any way. I would note that the lighting is modern office fluorescent. Causes and or solutions anyone? I ask politely please, stay on topic in your replies. I know there are other converters out there, but I'm staying with LR. I know there are other cameras/sensors out there, but I'm heavily invested in this XT2 system. Curious as to why I'm seeing this and suggested solutions for Lightroom workflow or Photoshop workflow. Peter
  5. I can't upgrade my XT2 to firmware 2.11 Each time I'm downloading the firmware 2.11 from 4 different computers and 3 different browsers (so this is not a browser cache issue) and try to upgrade the firmware I've got a message: 'You've got Firmware 1.10 and want to upgrade to 1.10' What can I do ? Some ideas ?
  6. Hi everyone, This is my first post here and it concerns a strange issue i have been researching that i see others have been affected by as well. So far there has been no solution in any of various posts around the web. The problem is this: I have a barely used VPB grip for my XT-2. They were purchased at the same time. They are barely 4 weeks old in use, the grip much less so due to the issues. I have three of the newer batteries plus the one that comes with the camera. After fully charging all the batteries and putting the grip and camera together, the batteries in the grip displayed as fully depleted. Looking around online, some suggested flipping the booster switch, removing and reinserting the tray etc. None of the described "fixes" worked perfectly. I assumed this was a software fix that Fuji could roll out. I decided to try and use the grip and camera knowing that the batteries were actually full despite what the display read. However, this lead to even stranger behavior...such as the camera shutting itself off while focusing, or the joystick would not work on the grip but the shutter button would and other weird behavior. These issues were intermittent. They are not reproducible and i have tried my best to trouble shoot and get the root of the problem. As far as i can tell, the camera performs flawlessly...when the grip is NOT attached. I just came back from three weeks traveling around Europe taking hundreds of photos without any problems. So the grip is clearly the problem. Again, many others are experiencing this issue with the battery display and the grip so I am uncertain what next to do. I want a working grip. If it is just a bug that Fuji can squash I can wait for that update. If, on the other hand, i have an actual defective unit then i need to contact Fuji and get it replaced. I am writing to the Forum to get advice as to what to do. As i keep saying i know I am not alone and its hard to think that Fuji is selling lots of defective hardware so perhaps this is just a software issue that will be eventually corrected. What do you think? Any and all advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks for your help!
  7. Anyone else have similar issues like I described below? Yesterday it was a rainy day and I took my X-T1 with 50-140 and X-T2 with 16-55 out to a charity walk which I've volunteered for in the past as a photographer. My X-T1 held up great as always in the rain. My X-T2 had issues. All was fine, but then about an hour into the event and still raining, my X-T2 was telling me that the "maximum operating temperature has been reached" and the camera would shut down. That sounds kinda odd because it was maybe 55 degrees Fahrenheit in the rain and the X-T2 body was cold to the touch. The MENU and Q buttons either stopped working or the MENU button would pull up the Q menu. I brought it home after the event and decided to let it dry out. When I removed the 16-55, there was no water slipping past the seal and water hadn't gotten into any of the other compartments. As of this morning, the X-T2 will initially recognize the lens mounted on it, but then will display an f number of 0, and the shutter button will fire with the slightest press, not even focusing. The MENU button will now pull up the menu intermittently but the Q button and focus point stick doesn't work at all. The D pad seems to work okay. Anyone else experience similar issues in the same rainy conditions? It's almost as if water had gotten through the MENU buttons... My X-T1 has been through some pretty heavy rain and cold over the past 20 months or so and is still going strong!
  8. Fujifilm X-T2 half case is ready now http://kaza-deluxe.com/blog.php
  9. After shooting several thousands of photos using the X-T2. I realized I don't like the joystick. It's too slow. When I press the joystick to one direction, the focus point moves too slowly. I shoot fashion/models mostly. So when the subject's head moves, I have to move the focus point to follow them. With the X-T1, I was able to mash the directional pads to move it. It was much faster than the joystick of X-T2. And no, I can't use face detect AF. I tried it, and it isn't fast enough, and it doesn't detect the face sometimes to make it useful for me. I think Fuji needs to release a firmware update to speed up the focus point movement with the joystick. What is everyone else's thoughts on the joystick?
  10. I have an XT2 with Godox X1TF and TT350F. I'm unable to get flash to sync faster than 1/250. I'm shooting with Auto FP, TTL and unable to change the camera to Manual flash. Pretty sure I'm missing something stupid here. Edit / with photos: I'm starting to think maybe I'm describing my problem incorrectly. First of all, I've already stated that FP and TTL are enabled. I've also been testing with the TT350F attached to the camera and I'm getting the same results. The real issue is that the exposure difference between 250 and 500 is quite dramatic. Like, one is too bright and one is too dark. This is more noticeable with smaller apertures with the subject further away. If I stop down to 2.8 and shoot a subject at 1M, the exposure between 250 and 500 is closer. Although, at 250, I'm definitely still seeing the effect of the flash (bright spot) where as at 500 I think I'm just getting a better exposure just because I've stopped down and the SS is faster than the flash. The following snapshots are both f8, iso200. 1/250 https://www.dropbox.com/s/yu2u6k7rhzmx5gj/250.png?dl=0 1/500 https://www.dropbox.com/s/3pjvc8wztx7qcrm/500.png?dl=0
  11. I have used cameras for a long time, none of them weather sealed, without any damage from water or dust.In fact I don't recall it even being an issue.But now I am deciding between an xt2 and xt20 ,mainly on this basis and the $700 price difference.I will never be out in the rain with this gear, but it will be exposed to ordinary dust, and perhaps high tropical humidity.I am leaning towards the xt20.This has perhaps been covered before, but I can't find a search function.
  12. I just want to make sure I'm doing this correctly and getting everything I can out of this software. Having to purchase an extra plugin and opening different windows just to take a picture makes this feel like something's not right. I did watch the instructional video but it sort of stops right at the point where you start using the software. I guess aside from the tether program acting completely disconnected from Lightroom, I can't get focus to work. I'm on LR CC and have purchased the Fuji Tether Plugin Pro v 1.602. My XT-2 is on FW 2.10. I open LR and start a new tethered session; File > Tethered Capture > Start new Tethered Capture. I get a control window that pops up once it recognizes my camera and I can take pictures with the 'shutter' button. These photos show up in my Library in LR. I can also go to my menu bar and select Show Fuji Tether Plugin Pro. This brings up a window which, by default, is on Camera (USB) on the left and Preview on the right. This view does absolutely nothing. I can select PC from the menu on the left which also at first does nothing until I select LIVE VIEW on the right. Now I can see my camera and make some exposure adjustments. So, when I want to view what my camera sees, I should not use the menu that says Camera and instead use PC. What It seems I can not do is use the AF/MF Settings. Once I turn on Focus Area, I can click in my frame to designate a focus area but that doesn't actually tell my camera to focus. When I click on my shutter button, nothing happens. I can not take a picture with the AF/MF Settings turned on. In the Preferences for Fuji Tethered Plugin Pro, there's an option to "Specify action of clicking on the Live View window". The options are Move Focus Area, Instant AF, and Instant AF and Shoot. The first one is the only one that results in a proper action. If I exit out of the Fuji Tethered Plugin Pro and just use the built in LR capture tool, my camera will focus as expected. Please let me know what things I'm getting wrong. All I want to do is see a large view of my subject, click to focus, and take a picture. I've spent too much time and money trying to make this work.
  13. I purchased my X-T2 in January and instantly fell in love. One of my favorite features was its use of buttons and dials along the camera for quickly changing settings rather than going through the menus. Along with the physical features of the camera I was also blown away by the auto focus Fujifilm was able to develop for this amazing camera. I use AF almost exclusively and with that I was using the Focus Lever (Focus Stick) quite often as well. After a few months with the X-T2 I noticed an issue with my Focus Stick, it would no longer go in the upward or up-diagonal directions. I kept using the camera for events and shoots I needed it for, working around the limitations I'd found and hoped that with the software updates to come my problem would be fixed. After downloading both updates it seems my issue is still present. I've searched a few times to see if anyone else has had this issue but haven't found an answer and instead was met with frustration. I'm hoping someone here can help me as Fujifilms website has also been of no help to me.
  14. In case useful to others, I've mapped the EXIF info for the various film simulations offered by the Fuji X100F. You need to read 2 tags (FilmMode and Saturation) to get the full information. I've used exiftool, a command-line tool, to get this. I am on a Mac but exiftool is freely available on most platforms. (Now if someone could find out whether whether usage of the built-in ND filter is captured in EXIF...) # exiftool -m -s -f -FilmMode -Saturation *.JPG ======== Acros+G.JPG FilmMode : - Saturation : Unknown (0x503) ======== Acros+R.JPG FilmMode : - Saturation : Unknown (0x501) ======== Acros+Ye.JPG FilmMode : - Saturation : Unknown (0x502) ======== Acros.JPG FilmMode : - Saturation : Unknown (0x500) ======== ClassicChrome.JPG FilmMode : Unknown (0x600) Saturation : Normal ======== Monochrome+G.JPG FilmMode : - Saturation : B&W Green Filter ======== Monochrome+R.JPG FilmMode : - Saturation : B&W Red Filter ======== Monochrome+Ye.JPG FilmMode : - Saturation : B&W Yellow Filter ======== Monochrome.JPG FilmMode : - Saturation : None (B&W) ======== ProNegHi.JPG FilmMode : Pro Neg. Hi Saturation : Normal ======== ProNegStd.JPG FilmMode : Pro Neg. Std Saturation : Normal ======== Sepia.JPG FilmMode : - Saturation : B&W Sepia ======== astia-soft.JPG FilmMode : F1b/Studio Portrait Smooth Skin Tone (Astia) Saturation : Normal ======== provia-standard.JPG FilmMode : F0/Standard (Provia) Saturation : Normal ======== velvia-vivid.JPG FilmMode : F2/Fujichrome (Velvia) Saturation : Normal
  15. I am inneed of some advise. I have both the xt2 and xpro2 and wish to get a flash sysrem. Which does this group feel is the best match; Godox AD200, Nissin or the Fuji x500. Thank everyone for your consideration. Jed Best
  16. dear X-friends .. To be honest I believe xt2 is made for coverting sport photography as well as videography. Although 24 mp sensor is better that 16 but not much different on result if you know how to set your camera, high quality double A2 size or even lorger print is possible with xt1. On the other hand since fuji on xt1 presenting features of photography and videography together with some new ones like touchscreen after x70 of course, seems xt1 after years corrections and developed system, personally i cannot trust xt2 atleast for 6 to 12 months, to upgrade all possible bugs and confusions. what do you think?
  17. Working with the XT2, I picked up a cheap non-electronic adapter for my old Canon FD lenses. Can't seem to find the menu function that would allow the shutter to work with the dumb adapter. Is there a switch in the menu or is this not possible?
  18. Anybody else has an issue with the LCD showing white lines couple pixels wide from top to bottom across the whole screen? ( like the attached image ) EVF seems fine and images are fine too, seems like an issue with LCD only. as much as i hate it, i think ill have to send the camera to fuji
  19. Hello Everyone, Long time Fuji shooter here. I recently placed an order for an XPro2 (and possibly an XT2 as well) from a local retailer. I was told they were out of stock in store and actually, Fuji film distribution has notified them that they are out of stock there as well. I've also heard from others that this has been their experience as well Has anyone heard something similar to this? Has Fujifilm announced an ETA of when they will be instock at their locations and able to ship? I'm guessing this won't occur until the holidays..
  20. I was shooting some BTS images at a shoot the other day and and snapped a few facing the sun flaring the lens. I noticed this ugly sensor pattern once I brought the image into lightroom. I was shooting raw on the 50-140 (+1.4x converter). I did some research and saw it's been in other fuji cameras, does anyone know if there's a fix in the works for this? Hopefully the attached images show up.
  21. I am reposting this from another x forum as I am hoping Fuji will see this if no one has already requested: I love the auto focus - it's terrific- but, I feel TOO fast for cinematic-like focus pulls when one operator / cinephotographer is shooting moving picture work. It's a dead giveaway it's on auto, with one operator. I would like to make a feature request in a firmware update for two additional slower modes for continuous auto focusing: Just "slower" and "slowest" or maybe "cine", and thin slowest called something like "slow". The current snappy pull simply does not look like a typical focus pull for a filmmaker. It is set up for snap pulls- which can work for action - but optimized for stills work, less so for motion. Adding these options would be a huge benefit to single-person run and gun operators , eg those who shoot short film, documentary etc, and automagically also enable the operator to better adjust framing on the fly to help ensure the focus pull locks onto the intended target . . . . Adding this feature, plus FLOG to the SD card (PLEASE try to keep it 4:2:2!) would make the X-T2 KILLER. LOVING the XT2 so far. Richard
  22. Is anyone else having this problem? My XT2 works beautifully with my Godox flashes (two AD200s and one AD600) when my shutter speed is 500 or higher. But if I drop the shutter speed below 500, the flashes stop firing. I'm using the Godox XPro-F transmitter. So what I'm really wanting is "Low Speed Sync" so I can use my Godox flashes at speeds like 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, etc. Why I do not suspect the transmitter or flashes I can press the test button on the transmitter and the flashes fire I can put the same transmitter on my X100s and shoot at any shutter speed and the flashes fire successfully This makes the XT2 my prime suspect. Under the flash function setting menu, I do have Sync Mode set to AUTO FP(HSS) but I've tried the other settings with no success either (and didn't expect those to help anyway). I am in single shot mode and not using bracketing or multi-exposure features. And it doesn't matter if I manually turn off HSS via the menus on the flash units. Do you have any suggestions I can try next? Can you see if you are able to shoot and sync at 1/60 using your XT2 and Godox transmitter and flashes? Any help or suggestions will be thoroughly appreciated!
  23. Hello, I am seriously thinking it's about time to upgrade my X-Pro1 to an X-T2, I don't need latest gimmicks nor super high res or movie features, for extra MP I use a FF Nikon camera which has plenty of pixels, Fuji is for lighter shooting like hiking, travel etc and as such, given how many people upgrading to the X-T3 the T2 reached a price tag which fits my budget. I see many T2 on American photography boards for sale but I live in the EU and the only reliable source I know is an online store in the UK (dunno if allowed here to past a link or a name so I just won't this time), is anybody aware of other trusted sources within the EU borders for used gear? Grazie Giovanni
  24. Hey Guys, new to the forum, been a Fujifilm shooter for 2 years. I'm working on a video for a client and noticed when editing that I get very nasty artifacts/noise in certain areas of my video when grading. I don't know whether this is a camera issue, or grading issue. Below is a link to one of the shots in question - for comparison I have both the edited version, as well as the original (I know in this case the reds are where the problem is, but I've had the same issue in other areas in other shots). Has anyone else encountered this issue? I'm editing in premier, and only doing basic grading with lumetri color (curves, and basic correction). https://youtu.be/XCyUFutVrFo Thanks in advance. I really love shooting on fujifilm, but I can't seem to find a solution to this issue. I hope it's a stupid thing I'm overlooking.
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