Personally in a situation like that where I'm not actively 'working' and on vacation, I want to be as lightweight and mobile as possible. Again, I'd be shooting for fun, not spending too much time away from my family to take photographs. There'd be no way I'd want to take dual bodies in a scenario like that, personally.
Looking at MY lens selection, I'd pop the 16-55 on during daytime and evening on the XH-1 and take the 23 1.4 for the darkest of allyways and corridors. The 16-55 has that foul weather advantage and I've dealt with that in Paris before.. That'd cover the majority of what I would be up to. If I were you, I'd just take that 18-55 and one good low light lens and be good to go, that lens isn't bad at all.
If I were to take primes, it'd be the Zeiss 12 (or Fuji 14, whatever), 23 and 56. That would also be an acceptable option, at greater weight expense.
16-55mm: 23.2oz or 1.45 pounds
12, 23, 56: 10.2oz, 11.3oz, 14.3oz = 35.8oz or 2.23 pounds
I hadn't checked this feed for a while, but after seeing answers to my previous post, I started to save the RAF's that I had previously discarded after converting to DNG
I recently downloaded the free Capture One Express for Fujifilm, and to my surprise my DNG converted images look better than those from Capture One. I used one of my own images rather than the one suggested by Graflex. But there seems to be a lot of chatter about Xtran sensors & resolution and then a lot of images that look great to me.
I looked at busy areas and high detailed parts in images I processed from converted DNG and processed in Camera Raw ( Old version in CS-6) and they were better than what I got in the Capture One software from the RAF's . I am using the latest DNG converter. It could just be me, I'm not a "Pixel Peeper"
Get a cheap digital multimeter set it on DC Volts ( start with the lowest range) and fire the flash while putting the red + lead on the center contact then the black lead on the metal side contact. If the voltage is less than 10vdc you are likely ok. If higher I would not use it directly connected. You may also be able to find a website that will tell you the trigger voltage of many flashes. I had the address saved, but I noticed it had not been updated , just search .
I don't know how the connection is made in the Fuji but I assume it is electronic. Older cameras had mechanical contacts that could be" fried " by high voltage.
I use many old flashes , my preference is the Vivitar 550 ( trigger voltage 8.5 volts + or - ) but I don't connect them to my camera. I use a radio sync system very cheap on e bay , usually around $15 for one flash. connect the controller to the hot shoe ( < 5 volts ) and the other to the flash. Get that flash off the camera for best results. I use as many as 6 strobes. These units are all the same and fail occasionally . I have purchased about 10 in the last 10 years, still cheaper than the old WEIN units of yesteryear.
Hope this helps.....Bob