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  1. Yesterday
  2. I believe the only way to do this with the X100S is to switch the autofocus button to MF and use the AFL/AEL button. The X100S doesn't have the option for back button focus in AF mode like more recent X series camera models.
  3. I don't think its possible - you could do the opposite (keep it on) with some tape - but not sure there is a way to keep it off (although like Jerryy says - it would certainly chew through the battery even if you could)
  4. Hello...Could anyone explain, simply, how to set up back button focus on my X100S please..... Just when I think I've got it...it falls down! many thanks Terry
  5. Okay, I will ask, how are you able to look at both of them at the same time? Keeping both on at the same time is a battery killer, these two electronic displays are movie camera televisions (monitors) to put it in a different view 😀, keeping them running constantly (continually updating) takes a lot of juice that then cannot be used to get more images. When you use options two or three, the eye sensor is “off”. A simple button push to swap between the two options when you need to use one over the other is fairly easy to do.
  6. Last week
  7. I see the distinction now! Thanks, Greybeard, but I still want a switch to turn off the eye sensor and keep the EVF and LCD on.
  8. Very interesting way of looking at options 2 & 3 but having to setup a switch to cycle between is a round about the issue. Why not just have a switch to turn the sensor off. I've looked at the documentation closely—I have a pdf copy and searched it to death—and haven't come across anything. Thanks, jerryy
  9. Hi There, I hope someone could help me. I am using a flash transmitter compatible with profoto flash (Aodelan)and It worked perfectly all the time I have used it with my X-T5 Today after my session, I wanted to take it off from the camera but it remained stuck in it. I tried multiple time to lock/unlock and pulled, but nothing happened. Do you have any suggestion I can try? Thanks in advance for your help!
  10. The difference only applies if you have set the camera to display the image after shooting (Screen Setting => Image Disp in the menu) - otherwise they behave the same. With Eye Sensor the image display option is shown in both evf and lcd (in other words you see the image you just shot in either the evf or lcd) - but with Eye Sensor + LCD Display that image is only shown in the lcd not the evf. The advantage of the second option is that you can use the evf and keep shooting without the delay for showing the image you just shot - but take your eye away from the evf and see that image in the lcd.
  11. Options two and three essentially turn the eye sensor off, these are always-on settings for either of those two, but only one at a time. You can set it up to switch between them. If you read a bit further to the part about the set-up menu section, screen setup -> view mode setting, you have some options regarding the evf and lcd display modes. The first and last options seem the same, but I think if you try them you will see a difference.
  12. Thanks jerryy, but this doesn't tell me how to turn the sensor off. From what I see from the various choices the first and last are identical in how they function.
  13. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-h2/about_this_camera/display/index.html#choosing_display_mode Scroll down to the actual Choosing a Display Mode section
  14. Is there a way of turning the eye sensor OFF so that both EVF and LCD screen are ON, ALWAYS? There have been too many times while shooting with a tripod that when approaching the LCD screen to take a closer look at the screen the eye sensor detects my fat head and switches the LCD screen OFF. Quite annoying! Thanks, Tom
  15. When I connect my X100V to X Raw Studio the Camera Profile (custom) is available however when connected to my XT3 only the User Profile is available, is there a fix for this or does the XT3 not have this option. Thank you.
  16. Red Admiral Oregon. X-H2s, Fuji150-600.
  17. Hi, I'm Andrea , im italian, I bought an S-20 and upgraded immediately the device to firmware 3.0. Yesterday i've tested it during golden hour shooting only stills, after some minutes i started to get some warning and then the device shut down. I know can happen in case of prolonged video recording, i was suprised to experience that, is the first time having to manage overheating issues while shooting photos, I'm 55 years old and i have/had a lot of cameras from different brands. I also observed some evf lagging. My guess is that having to process "film simulation recipe" can overload the processor , is better to activate "natural live view" and give up to the recipe preview ? Are there other setting that can impact ? Can this be related to the last firmware ? Thank's in advance for answering.
  18. Hi, I'm using a FujiFilm X-H2S on a Ronin RS 3 Pro and since I have it I've been noticing a strange behavior whenever I launch REC using the gimbal button: it first records for only one second then store the clip. A second push launch then the AEL mode of the camera (at least it says that on screen, AEL with a green dot) and a third or fourth will finally make it record for a non limited time. A few pointers: I am using internal CFast Type B storage These cards work perfectly whenever I use the REC button from my camera (so no problem with them here) This behavior appears very often but I sometime can record as expected I've updated firmwares through the year to the latest for both the gimbal and my camera I've changed cables My nerd guess would be that the signal sent by the Ronin is following the wrong SDK and can be wrongly interpreted by the camera as multiple actions but hey, wild guess here. One thing I'd love though is to resolve this as I'm often frustrated to have 1 second clips every time I shoot ("camera's rolling... wait a second") Cheers
  19. Welcome to the forum. 1.) I hope that you will read this in the spirit that it is intended. In no way, shape or form do I intend to criticize what you are trying to accomplish, I realize that you are looking for support for what you want to see in cameras Fujifilm sells to us. Please edit and re-write your letter. I know how easy it is being nervous and in a hurry while posting to a new forum, mistakes happen. I also realize you may be pasting a nicely written letter whose translation into English from another language got a bit garbled. The people you are trying to reach probably are not influenced much by anything we post here, but maybe they are, so to make a better impression on them, make it easy for them to understand what you are wanting to say. Your letter has a lot of spelling mistakes, use a spell checker on your letter while editing. Your phrase "... legendary unrepeatable XT-1 picture climat and quality..." almost makes sense, but something got lost here, I do not understand what 'picture climat' is. Your intended reader may wish to help you, but if they struggle too much to understand what you are saying, it is easier for them to pass it by, in favor of others' viewpoints. 2.) Where did you come up with the 36MP number from? Sometimes bumping up the resolution is good, but it comes at a cost. Here are two graphs from Photons To Photos illustrating what has happening as the MP have increased over time (The X-T5 stands in for the X-T50 because that information has not been released by P2P yet). More resolution can give you better detail and better cropping (for those rare times when cropping is needed because you did not have the right lens or the scene was just too tricky to get without cropping) but again there is a cost. These may seem counter-intuitive but consider replacing three pixels with five. You get more resolution and maybe more detail, but you can get more unwanted noise --- with three pixels your region had three noise sources, now it has five, actually we ended up with worse noise than before unless the individual pixel noise is vastly reduced. That noise reduction needs to be in hardware rather than software otherwise you get issues such as Sony's star-eater problem or Nikon's concentric circles problem -- you can look these up, they were software approaches to trying to fix noise issues at various ISO and time exposure settings. Also more resolution only for resolution's sake can end up costing you image detail because of diffraction issues which in turn soften your images. Maybe something better to ask for would be things like better hardware noise reduction, more dynamic range, wider color spaces, etc. Again, please understand, I am not trying to criticize what you are doing, but I think you will get a better response if you edit your letter. Best wishes, jerryy.
  20. Looks like it's been reenabled, if you're still looking for it.
  21. I have an XT-4 (firmware v 2.11) that I’m trying to use as a webcam on macOS. As others have experienced, it works great at 1080p / 30fps for 4-5 minutes and then the frame rate significantly drops, leading to jerky video. Curiously, touching any button or knob on the camera brings the frame rate back up to normal for another 4 minutes or so. I’ve also monitored the back screen and turned on all diagnostic info on the screen and watched it while it transitioned to a low frame rate, nothing changes visibly to indicate why. None of the other posts I’ve read have contained working solutions so far. Below is everything I’ve tried, would really appreciate any ideas for fixing this. Tried the FujiFilm X Webcam app (didn’t work at all for me) Multiple USB ports and HDMI cables Multiple Macs (an M2 MBA and a Mac Studio) Multiple versions of macOS (Sonoma 14.5 and Sequoia 15 Public Beta) Connecting via a cheap HDMI capture dongle Connecting via Elgato CamLink 4K Using the Elgato Camera Hub software Following all the directions on the FujiFilm website for using the XT-4 as a webcam Turning power management off Turning face detection and auto focus off Using boost mode (frame rate priority) Flipping the LCD to be facing out (suggested in a number of posts) Resetting the camera to defaults and doing all of the above again Thanks for any tips!
  22. Yaquina Head Lighthouse Newport, Oregon. X-T50, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, ReallaAce.
  23. You should check the power mode. Should be set to „boost“.
  24. I have a number of TTArtisans lenses and am more than happy with them for the money. Specifically I have the 7.5mm f2 fisheye, 27mm f2.8 AF (very cheap for an AF lens) and 35mm f1.4. They all have their limitations but for the money are pretty good. Another option is to use vintage lenses on an adapter - MD Minolta lenses are generally very good and not expensive though generally not as fast as more modern lenses. The Minolta MD II or MD III 35-70 f/3.5 (with the 'macro' switch) is a collaboration with Leica and is very sharp and under £100 in mint condition. The adapter is £30 or so. With regard to focus peaking the X-E2 supports Red, Blue or White in two levels of each. Personally if you can run to an X-E3 I'd go there for the improved low light performance.
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