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  1. Today
  2. Seconding this! Would be nice to preview a desqueezed image in camera + output it via HDMI.
  3. Yesterday
  4. I found my answer. Actually you can assign the profile from a .dng conversion but not from a .tiff conversion. I hadn’t double checked the .dng option.
  5. There's no implied threat. I'm just saying that you're going about things the wrong way. Now you're throwing conspiracy theories and mistresses in and, unaccountably for a photographer's forum, the word "buggery". Complaining and nagging may work for you, but I don't see why innocent posters here should be caught in your crossfire. If you want manual shooting, I'm with you. This is my first digital camera. In all of the various bodies adorning my shelf I haven't put a battery in any in over a decade except where the camera simply won't work without the presence of one. People have actually offered me high-spec DSLRs as they upgraded, but this one was the first one I wanted. I've had to change my MO massively in every way. I accept that, because it comes close to realising everything I need from it. Not 100%, but close. Y'see, I get the fact that the manufacturers have a huge pool of customers to satisfy and as one of them I know and accept that they're not designing a custom camera for me alone. I accept that and I get on with it. The solution you were offered is not a fudge or a workaround. It is a logical exploitation of a design feature of the camera: the ability to assign commonly-used functions to a button. That is an excellent customisation option. I'm going to gradually exploit that as I gain experience with the machine and learn what I need most readily at my fingertips.
  6. I shoot RAW with my Fujifilm X-H2S and X-T3. My colour profile of choice is Provia. When I import into Lightroom, Camera MAtching profiles are selected and I haven't got an issue. Recently, I bought DXO Raw 4 as I like the results from high ISO images better than LR. However, upon re-import from DXO whether in DNG or TIFF format, the colour profile defaults to Adobe Colour. Does anyone know how to re-assign the colour profile or to be able to import Fuji colour profiles without affecting the results of the DXO conversion?
  7. I would advise you, from a position of experience in the firmware field, to be cautious and guarded in broaching the issue with Fujifilm (or any other supplier for that matter). I say this, with respect, because your tone is slightly off. Suggesting that they "fix the camera", for example, is not a phrase to use with their support. The camera is working as designed. The fact that it doesn't exactly match your specs doesn't mean that it can be considered as broken. I worked for decades as a product owner, and our change process was very rigorous, involving polling our user community for desired changes, tweaks etc. This change will not have emerged from the type of meeting room you imagine. Why do I say this? Because of experience. Often removing a function is as difficult as creating a new one. It is a non-trivial task, and will have required redesign of other elements of the package - thus there is an in-built inertia to overcome. We also as a team had to be conscious that some users might have developed a reliance on a particular function, so that too was a barrier to change. Thus, before disabling or removing a function, we would not simply need a majority in its favour, but sound technical reasons to justify it. Since these things tend to be very intertwined, there may also have been a conflict between its mode of operation and that of a new function which was overwhelmingly demanded. The solution generously provided (hardly a "fudge" or "workaround") seems eminently workable to me. Any time I buy a next gen version of a product I expect to find enhancements/changes. I adapt to them. It's not an ordeal. Things may have moved, or perform differently. That's life. If you give off the vibe that it was done to annoy you, you're mistaken, and you're not recruiting support for your cause. A final note: the most important thing for me with this camera - my sine qua non - was that it operate satisfactorily with my legacy glass. Before I bought it, I brought a mount adopter and two lenses to test with it. The salespeople were happy to let me "test drive" the camera. Maybe it would have been worth checking that it worked before purchasing if this was so important. As it is, it wasn't a trivial purchase for me, and I'd guess that I spent about six or more visits to the shop, checking that it would work for me. That process involved discovering whether I could work with it. I'm very satisfied indeed with it.
  8. Last week
  9. I don't know this camera specifically but most Fuji's set to AFC (auto focus continuous) make more noise. If you aren't shooting actively moving objects, you might switch to AFS (auto focus shutter).
  10. That camera is so new, that, right now, there are probably not a lot of members that have one yet. As far as IBIS goes, noisy sounds is commonly reported in cameras from every manufacturer that includes it in the bodies. Usually it turns out that unless you are hearing the noise followed by dust and camera bits falling out of the body, there is nothing to worry about, some quiet noise is normal.
  11. same. the gfx is certainly better to hold than apsc or FF bodies, but would certainly appreciate a grip.
  12. Fuji X100 VI OWNERS ( Camera noise ! + JPEGS ) Please help me Camera noise : - With IBIS turned ON , I can still hear a low volume noise only when moving the camera from side to side. It's not the autofocus. It almost sounds as though it's coming from the vicinity of the lens - I can only hear the noise if the camera is relatively close to my ear - Perhaps the aperture blades moving !? Does your camera make the same noise ? Does this happen with your X100 VI ? Please advise - I would appreciate it lots
  13. Not sure I know how to describe it. To me, it has a familiar Fuji Gfx look in a wide angle if that means anything to you. It can capture a big wide view with great detail and also has pretty good detail used closer up. It even has pretty good bokeh for this type of lens. Sunstars are kind of ordinary but I haven't played with that too much. AF is a little faster than the 32-64 and seems accurate. I've not used the 23 but for me this lens is exceptional. I've never seen a zoom lens in this focal range anywhere close to this good and I think it would rival the primes in optical quality.
  14. Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try. Otherwise I like the comfort of a grip for portrait shooting, and I honestly just have massive hands so I usually get a battery grip with any camera I own.
  15. also considering the 20-35 vs the UWA primes. hows the character of the lens? can you get sunstars at small apertures? hows the AF in low light?
  16. got the little grip for the 50sii and it's better than nothing. honestly, haven't burned through a battery yet. transferring files charges it nicely, and having a spare wasabi was like $30. the mhg gfx S grip works great and has an arca swiss built in. gives a little extra room for my pinky to stabilize longer lenses.
  17. I am having the same problem now. I fear it could be an expensive hardware problem... Any suggestion anyone?
  18. Which lens are you using? That makes a difference in how you can set the options. Since you mention an aperture ring, it sounds like you are using a XF type lens. There is a little switch on the XF lenses that have an A mark and a symbol mark. If the switch is set to the symbol mark, the ring controls the f-stop (aperture). If the switch is set to A, the body can set the f-stop. Hopefully, this link helps: https://jmpeltier.com/change-aperture-fujifilm-x-cameras/
  19. That is item three (3). https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t20/about_this_camera/display/index.html p.s. Welcome to the forum.
  20. Hello, let me introduce myself Im Miguel a. photographer from Barcelona. I wanna share this picture and introduce my work(All the pictures were taken with a fuji xpro3 and xe4). I also would like to invite you to see the full project here:Stride portugal Regards
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