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Hi Greybeard Thanks for the reply Short answer..... I don't know for sure it's the Delkin that's the problem The camera reports Write Error Card 1 Have tried different combos of cards, and have experienced with both.

Does the camera report the write errors? How do you know its the Delkin card that is the problem? Have you tried using the Delkin card on its own - do you still get errors? I have that exact same card and haven't had problems - but rarely shoot video. The only problem I've had thats remotely similar was with a particular combination of two cards in the two slots - either one was fine on its own - switching to a different card in slot 2 solved it.

Hi, I hope someone can help. I use a Delkin Devices Black 150GB CF Express Type B card alongside a San Disk Extreme Pro SDXC 300MB/s 128GB in slot 2. We only shoot video, 4k, (normally 100mbit), and often get write errors to the Delkin card where the camera struggles to write to it, the camera can be stuck for up to a minute or so. If out on a days shoot this will happen 2 or 3 times. Up until 2 days ago the file was always written to both cards, (we backup to the SD card), but I had an instance where the file was not written, so very worrying! I have the latest firmware, but this is something that has happened on other firmwares too, and on another card too, which Delkin changed under their lifetime warranty. Anyone experienced anything similar? If so what was the outcome? What CFexpress Type B cards are you guys using, I'm going to buy another card today, but probably not Delkin.... Thanks for your help

Too late - I can live without X Raw Studio for a while - it makes you wonder how much testing Fujifilm carried out while Sequoia was in beta.

I have four Fujifilm body-XH2, XT30II, XS20 and XT50. Out of these four bodies only XT50 will enter sleep mode for the 16-55/2.8. The rest of the other three refuses to do so but works normally for other Fujifilm lens I have. Since the other three can do sleep mode (for other lens), I will rule out the possibility of menu setup issue. The 16-55/2.8 has the newest firmware 1.33 and it is most likely the reason of this weird issue. I remember it was fine before this 1.33 (August-2024 update) firmware. Wondering if I can get a 1.32 or 1.31 to make it working as I expected? I have tried reflash the lens with 1.33 but that won't solve the problem. I have also clean thoroughly on the electronic contacts... Solution? idea?

Apple recently introduced R15, code named Sequoia. There is a compatibility issue with X Raw Studio that doesn’t allow the camera to link to the computer. FF is aware of the issue and has the advisory to not upgrade till FF creates a patch.

I have a number of 35mm slides and negatives that I want to convert to digital. I am keen to try to do this through the X-T5. I have options to use the F1.4 16mm, 18-135mm, f1.4 33mm, f2 90mm or 70-300mm zoom lens, but would appreciate recommendations for an adapter that would fit/work on any of these lenses. Thanks in advance Geoff

here is some information on the AFC custom settings I pulled from a website that might help choose settings. Tracking Sensitivity Tracking Sensitivity determines how long the camera waits before adjusting focus when another object enters the focus area. The higher the number, the longer the camera will wait. A high value could be useful when shooting a team sport when other players come between you and the subject or when other objects are likely to get in the way when panning with a subject. Speed Tracking Sensitivity Speed Tracking Sensitivity controls how sensitive the tracking system is to changes in the speed of the subject. The higher the value, the more the camera will attempt to respond to sudden changes in speed, however, the camera will have more trouble than usual with low contrast or very reflective subjects. A high value is useful for subjects such as wildlife that can move and change speed quickly. Zone Area Switching Zone Area Switching only takes effect when Zone AF mode is selected and it sets the focus area that is given priority within the selected zone. There are three settings; Center, Auto and Front. When the Center is selected the camera prioritises objects in the centre of the zone while in Front it gives priority to the subject nearest to the camera. Meanwhile, when Auto is selected, the camera locks focus on the subject at the centre of the zone but switches focus area as necessary to track it. Auto makes a good general-purpose setting, but it’s worth experimenting with the others. Using the AF-C Custom Settings As mentioned earlier, the AF-C Custom Settings are selected via the AF/MF Setting page of the menu. Before you make a selection it’s a good idea to give a little thought to your subject and surroundings. In many instances Set 1 Multipurpose will serve you well, but you may get a higher hit rate in some situations with the others. If you’re panning in an area with trees or street lamps, for example, Set 2Ignore Obstacles & Continue to Track Subject could be a good choice that keeps the camera focused on your subject. Set 3 For Accelerating/Decelerating Subject is a good choice for motorsports or races where the subject is likely to slow into a corner (for example) before accelerating away. Set 4 For Suddenly Appearing Subject is useful when you don’t know when or where a subject will appear - perhaps if you’re waiting below the brow of the hill or around the bend in a race. Set 5 For Erratically Moving & Accel/Decel. Subject makes a good choice for wildlife, especially birds in flight as they move randomly and with varying speed.

I'm also having this problem and it's really frustrating and hope someone has a fix soon

Anyone using any of these "D-Tap Battery Power adapters" for their GFX? Are they worth it? Which one are you using. For example "Neewer VP-NPW235 to D Tap NP-W235 Dummy Battery" Thanks in advance, -Ken

Hey guys I'm trying to adjust to this camera but it's driving me a little bit crazy because anytime I press the ISO button and adjust my ISO it flips to this ISO only screen and it's not showing me my metering. I'm trying to adjust my exposure yet I can't see my light meter when adjusting my ISO. thoughts? I'm wondering if because it doesn't have a dedicated ISO dial that this is how it defaults and there's no fix. If so it's a bit of a dealbreaker for me.

It might just be you need to get used to a different workflow with the new camera. It's bound to feel different with a new camera but that doesn't mean that it's not for you.

The X-T5 does tend to show up any weaknesses with lenses especially the older ones.

TLDR/Questions: How do you acquire initial and keep focus on objects not directly in the center of your frame, without taking the time to move the joystick/focus wheel to your desired spot, if you don't have consistent/reliable AF-C and tracking on the X100VI/fuji systems? I've been using my Nikon ZF with a 40mm f/2 (AF-C, 3D tracking, face/eye-detect, back button focusing & recomposing) and was previously a Nikon D7100 shooter. I've used back button focusing to point the camera directly at my subject (at the center of the frame), hold down back-button focus, and slowly recompose by moving the camera left/right. It's been so great on my ZF, that I can leave the camera in AF-C basically 24/7 even for still subjects. I take pictures of family and friends, travel/vacation, street photography, etc., so pretty much a 'general' use case. It feels 'unnatural' and it takes me out of the moment when using the d-pad or focus lever to move around my focus block. I don't use AF-S nearly enough to focus and recompose with it, since I want to 'be ready to take the shot' especially outdoors when anything can happen, and I like how the focus square stays on top of the initially focused object on AF-C. Since the ZF's system was so good, all of my best pictures have stayed on AF-C and 3D tracking with back-button focusing. But, I've recently acquired an X100VI and when using the same focus and recompose with BBF, it doesn't even come close (AF-C, Wide Area/Tracking, back button focusing and recomposing) in terms of precision, accuracy, speed, and most importantly reliability. It's unconfident even in the most static/non-action packed situations, the lens motor whirls and whines (lens limitation I suppose) even if I'm not moving the camera and I'm keeping it pointed straight on. I've set the AF-C with tracking sensitivity to the max, speed tracking 0, zone area switching auto.I've read online that Fuji users often use AF-S with single point, or AF-C with zone, but to be totally honest for everyday shots, I prefer to leave the camera in a single 'setting' and have it work accurately 98% of the time. To me, that looks like the settings I have on Nikon ZF which produces tack-sharp and accurate images. Coming from the D7100, I felt like I had to actively try to get shots out of focus because it's so damn good! Is there an optimal/ideal autofocus mode for me? Or, is the X100VI just 'not it' for me if I'm wanting this capacity at least compared to the Nikon ZF? Thank you!

I'd had the 70-300 for about a year now. Unreliable focusing - especially at 300mm end. often focus behind subject is static and in center of frame. Infuriating with birds for example! You think you have a bang-on sequence of several shots and they often all turn out out out of focus. I try shooting short bursts, then refocus and shot another burst - this has often saved me - but man this gets frustrating! :-(

FujiRumors posted recently that the company have acknowledged issues with the firmware (AF in particular) and they are working on a new version. No more detail or likely release date though.

I‘d suggest you set the focus to manual for now. What happens then?

Thanks for the suggestion Olaf. Dial on the top plate is set to A and not B which is usually Bulb mode. Have just noticed that the camera is 'hunting' for focus!

Did you set the camera to timer or bulb mode, accidentically?

Hi folks I hope this finds you all well. I am relatively new to Fuji cameras but am well versed in film cameras including medium format. So, please bear with me. I have a Fujifilm X100T and think it is a smashing wee camera. Recently due to illness I have been away from photography and decided to get back in the saddle using the wee Fuji sit is so light and portable. It could be, that I have simply forgotten all that I taught myself on Fujifilm cameras, and that is the real problem. When I started to use the camera again I made sure I had a fresh battery, spare battery etc. However, when I depress the shutter I see a error message in the viewfinder saying "OK next" "< Retry BACK EXIT". The lamp on the rear of the body flashes orange and green which I think signifies it it writing data to the card? Can anyone give me a steer on what is going on? I think it may also be an idea to have it serviced which I am prepared to do but not sure if this is a fault in addition or my own lack of familiarity with the camera. Thanks in anticipation. Frank

Welcome to the forum. Have you tried turning off the Preview Exp./WB in manual mode? https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t4/menu_setup/screen_set-up/index.html Doing this should let you see what is in the frame. https://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/49140-help-needed-with-gfx100s-studio-shooting-with-strobes/

Nach 5 Jahren ist nun der Klappbildschirm ausgefallen. Vorausgegangen ist der Ausfall des Unterbildschirmes. Die Konstruktion war mir von Anfang nicht sehr geheuer und sehr fragil erschienen. Offenbar ein Konstruktionsfehler. Eine Sammelklage ist in den USA jedoch gescheitert. Selbst bei einer "Profikamera" kann mal etwas defekt gehen, aber fast 200 € für die Reparatur zu verlangen , ist schon unverschämt.