Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. Yesterday
  3. I have the same issue with a X-pro3. The adapter works fine on my mobile phone (a Sony), but when plugged into the X-Pro3 the sound still are coming out from the loudespeker ( not very loude...) and nothing in the headset.
  4. It all depends on what you want and need, a cheap option with TTL is the Nissin i-40 as mentioned above if you use manual flash (which I would recommend) Youngnuo is a very affordable option also offering remote triggers for off camera use. I have the nissin i-40 whish is easy to use and offers TTL and a couple of Youngnuo Flashes with remote triggers.
  5. Any street/public photos of Hong Kong (Open Thread)
  6. I live in Yuen Long, Hong Kong. Just bought X-E3, X-T30, 16mm 1.4/f, 18mm 2/f, and 35mm 1.4/f. Here is the set of photos I used them to record Yuen Long, Hong Kong. I only use the Film Simulation of Acros Red. I will keep updating this album. Cheers!
  7. skhbbss.2a25

    Yuen Long, Hong Kong.

    I live in Yuen Long, Hong Kong. Just bought X-E3, X-T30, 16mm 1.4/f, 18mm 2/f, and 35mm 1.4/f. Here is the set of photos I used them to record Yuen Long, Hong Kong. I only use the Film Simulation of Acros Red.
  8. Last week
  9. (From an older inquiry I responded to here) I bought the pair listed below. Both are made by Godox but are rebranded house brands from Adorama. B&H also has Godox rebranded house brands though I don’t know their name for it. The reason I went with Godox is they are inexpensive and rated very high on multiple websites. I first bought the pair as Godox branded but the warranty was a joke. The flash and off camera support both had a card insert explaining the warranty. (Nothing on the Godox box’s or Godox website say anything about a warranty.) The warranty card stipulated that the seller must include signed documentation with the claim and all that is covered is the electrical board, so I returned both. B&H and Adorama have warranties that stand behind the house brand (Godox) flashes and support with language that is “normal” and both in my experience (and reviews) are honest upstanding sellers. Got the pair for $124.95 delivered from Adorama and am very happy with them. The off camera support R2 Pro (XPro-F) was well with the $30 so the flash can be moved away from the lens. I prefer using power (AA batteries) over rechargeable that’s easily available/replaceable but to each their own. happy shooting! ps. I forgot to say the one downside to Godox is their antiquated firmware update. Their new flashes now support Apples OS (check their website for models) but last I looked all the older flashes can only be firmware updated with a PC and the process is very 1990’s. My flashes came updated from Adorama with the newer firmware so for the moment, it’s not a problem. Flashpoint Zoom TTL R2 Flash With Integrated R2 Radio Transceiver - Fuji (TT685F) Flashpoint R2 Pro 2.4GHz Transmitter for Fuji (XPro-F)
  10. Thank you for your advice. I was able to slide a credit card into the slight gap between the lens mount and the cap, I kept forcing it around the edge of the mount as I put pressure on the cap to turn. It finally popped off. A tab on the inside of the cap had broken off at some point and I'm guessing that was preventing it from releasing properly. I appreciate your help!
  11. I would look at flash purchases based on needs, amount of use and cost. I use Godox flashes. I have the small TT350F which is compact, easily fits in my camera bag. I also have 2 TT685F flashes. I purchased the XProF remote trigger which makes this set up an inexpensive but complete flash solution for my Fuji cameras. I had a Nissin flash but I found it was going to be too expensive to build a system for my needs. The Godox set up has prove to be very reliable so far.
  12. Not on the X-T3 either?! I thought for sure it would have it.
  13. What are your main needs from a flash ? I have a nissin i40 - which is perfectly sized for X cameras as well as fuji styled dials - however , it can't be controlled by a radio trigger - only optical slave mode
  14. never mind. Display back button came to my rescue
  15. Advice comes with the danger of scratching or otherwise harming your equipment. that said, sounds like the cap is cross threaded. how to remove? With computers (so not to damage computers) folks use a Spudger. It’s basically a mini crowbar but made of a softer material like plastic. The auto industry also uses smaller crowbars made of a softer material (plastic) for removing headliners or fabric/plastic, (search auto headliner removal tool) for examples. if it were me and I didn’t have these tools. pushing the lens release button should have no effect as I’ve never seen a camera body lens cover/cap on a camera system that locks (maybe there is a very high end medium or large format camera that does, that’s out of my realm) I’d cover the camera with a camera cleaning cloth. I’d then push the fabric to that small gap you mentioned by using a credit card or something plastic, thin but firm to get under the cap and carefully pry. If it didn’t come off I’d try again but move the card around the cap as I pried. What are your thoughts?
  16. I am using a Samyang 35 mm MF lens with my X-T2 & while it works great ( with the viewfinder) , the LCD screen only displays various information , but not the image preview. As a result, I can't compose a low angle shot using the tilt screen. The moment I use a fuji AF lens ( with AF-S or AF-C), image preview comes back to LCD . Any ideas how to fix it?
  17. Hello everyone, I’m a past user of four manufacturers. I’ve loved both photography and film/video since school days. Fuji’s x-t3 brought me back to a multiple lens system and got me excited again. So much so my wife (a Minolta shooter since college) bought a x-t3 too!
  18. Hello. The lens mount cap on the body of my XT-3 will not come off. It turns slightly counter clockwise as usual and separates slightly from the mount base as it turns, but will not release. I have turned off/on and tried using lens release button with no luck. Please help. Thanks!
  19. Just tested both a Lexar and a Transcend and both read fine on a MacBook pro 2011. I feel Catalina is a very different OS then past ones and some apps aren’t compatible so I didn’t do an update but a 100% clean install of Catalina, then reinstalled software using the disc images or downloaded again from the supplier (not copied apps off the backup) then moved folders and such over. I did a 4K Final Cut Pro x project and Catalina preformed better then it ever has (I’ve used FC since version two). I think it just needs to start out on a clean fresh drive but I can only relate my experience. While not a totally fresh install (old apps could still gum up things) It is possible to reinstall the os from Catalina recovery mode: first backup then... (Instructions borrowed) The correct way to reinstall macOS Catalina is to use your Mac’s Recovery Mode: Restart your Mac and then hold down ⌘ + R to activate Recovery Mode In the first window, select Reinstall macOS ➙ Continue Agree to the Terms & Conditions Select the hard drive you’d like to reinstall mac OS Catalina to and click Install The reinstallation process will start shortly and roughly take 30 minutes. When complete, your Mac will start up as usual. No files should be lost.
  20. Hello everyone, I'm new to Fuji, but have loved my X-T2 so much that I've committed to a growing XF lens collection! You'll generally find me outdoors, looking for landscape shots in remote areas. I look forward to sharing and learning here!
  21. Similar problem. SD card from Sony camera appears, and thumbnail s appear in photos, but when I click on the ones I want to import, the import selected button doesn’t respond. Mac is a late 2019 MacBook Pro running Catalina. Two different card readers. Same card does upload to iPhone.
  22. Thanks jerryy! I just discovered Affinity and see it’s on sale for 1/2 price, so I bought it @ $25. US! on your other Mac Catalina topic. I see your concern on HDR so it’s been changed, thank you for pointing that out
  23. You can try Affinity Photo, it is fairly affordable and works with HDR types of images. There are plenty of tutorials available for doing just that as well as Affinity’s online help section. p.s. You may want to change your title a bit. The very recent MacOS 10.15.4 Catalina update turned on support for HDR monitors, so if you have one connected to your Mac, you already have ‘HDR support’ in a sense.
  24. I’m looking for a quality software program that’s Mac compatible. I understand Adobe can do HDR And I do have PS elementals 2020 but I understand I need their cloud rental software to do HDR. I’ve been using Skylum’s Aurora HDR and its been ok but I’ve had loading issues that they were no help with and I’ve realized Skylum isn’t so much a quality photo software solution as it is a marketing company. After buying Aurora HDR twice, Luminar twice and their miscellaneous “Deals”, I’m done and want to move away from their yearly game. any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
  1. Load more activity
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...