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X-T2, 90mm (taken through a double-glazed window)

I think this is a Aphrodite Fritillary butterfly (Speyeria aphrodite).

X-E2 + Minolta Rokkor 50mm f/1.4

X-E2 + 27f2.8 + MCEX-16

X-T2, 16-80mm

Though the window in Sanyang, The Gambia. Fujifilm X-T3 & Fujinon XF23mmF2 R WR - ACROS Film Simulation Doing Dishes by Din Dayemi, on Flickr

In India

X-E2 + 27f2.8

X-E2 + 27f2.8

As the X-Pro2 is larger and heavier than the X-Pro1, and the X-Pro3 is larger and heavier than the X-Pro2; I would have every reason to believe that an X-Pro4 will be even larger and heavier than the X-Pro3. Isn't the X-Pro line getting quite a bit larger than your (our) X-E2? And, doesn't that make the imagined X-Pro4-5&6 no longer even comparable to the right-sized X-E series?

The boats are asleep.

X-T2, 16-80mm

**** Open Threads **** feel free to add bird photos here:) taken with a manual focus Fujinon 135mm 2.5. a little luck was needed.

Jen and Row Row 1 by Din Dayemi, on Flickr

-removed-old post not relevant

I’ve shot years of wedding solo and your friends ask is a tough one as shooting is only a quarter of the challenge. That aside. I just did my first video with the x-t3 and focus was a challenge and the stupid stopped recording in 4K. At least it counts down on the screen to give you a heads up on when it will quit recording (so you can try to get critical vows and such...or an external recorder talked below) ok, the overheating issue. An external recorder is the way to go. It should give you 4:2:2 10 bit 4K and no limit on recording time (completely test this as I have xt3 not xt30 experience) the external recorder needs to have a monitor as part of its package. (My past experience w/ a Canon 5D mark III) it was the back LCD that caused the heating issue so switch to the eye viewer and test to confirm it won’t overheat anymore. on other stuff. Work on video focusing a ton and review footage on a large monitor. HD isn’t forgiving and 4K is even less forgiving. Use one lens and get as familiar as possible using it with video. Dreaming of what’s possible (different lenses, etc) vs the reality of only have one chance at getting it right will put a lot of stress on you. Switching gear in the middle of all this will add stress. (Where do you store the other gear, What pocket is it in, how/when to switch back, where’s that lens cap, did switching introduce dust, a hair, finger print or a little fuzzy thing that will be on all your footage now) Sound: shotgun mic like Rodes with fake fur (deadcat) windscreen on camera as it will isolate most unwanted camera and all your breathing noise (you’ll be huffing/puffing at sometime). Small recorder with small lavalier mic for groom. Recorder goes in jacket breast pocket. Turn on at least 10min. before ceremony and put tape over on/off switch (if groom goes to bathroom ya don’t want him messing with recorder because he’s under stress too and may/will forget to turn it back on) hope I didn’t overstep your ask too much. just want to help you and your family. good luck!

Hey guys - my name is Michael and photography has long been a passion of mine. I was a long time Canon user and made the switch to Fuji last year. I purchased an XT3 and currently have a 23mm and 56mm 1.4 lenses and shoot mostly portraits. I had a couple questions with some issues I am having with my camera which is what drew me to the forum in the first place.

I have both and suggest that if you can afford to keep them both, you should do so. I thought about selling my Pen-F when I got the X100V since I mainly shoot with Fuji cameras, but the Pen-F is such a cool camera that I can't quite bring myself to part with it.

Yes + Eterna bleach bypass

X-Pro3 & 16 2.8

Issue resolved! thank you Jerryy, Greybeard and Iamacchiacosta! fastest easiest metadata finder for MOVIE’s fStop, shutter speed, ISO, white balance, lens used, camera used and even film mode IE: Eterna or other...etc It is : ExifTool by Phil Harvey what I didn’t know previously was how to use it and how easy it is to use. quick guide incase someone runs across this thread.... Search and download (MacOS Package) ExifTool by Phil Harvey From his website: exiftool.org install the app, then open the Terminal app that’s located in the tools folder inside the applications folder. Once Terminal is open just type the word exiftool then add a space by hitting the space bar then drag the X-T3 movie file (make sure it’s the original file because I found Final Cut Pro X 10.4.8 reformatted the original file and lost metadata information when I took the “original” file out of FCPX to use) file into Terminal then hit the return bar the results will then appear in Terminal. This is a huge help as I can now go back to a job for some pickup shots and I’ll have all the settings I originally used so I can easily match the look.

I would have loved to see a better positioning of the different product lines at Fuji. The X-T4 is now a bit like Gerald Undone has put it: "jack of all trades, master of some". I would have hoped that the X-H line was focused on hybrid video/stills use incl. IBIS, flippy screen, decent ports (like a headphone port!). That would free up the X-T line to be the better stills camera. It would allow Fuji to have two teams really focusing to build the best in both categories. The X100V shows that with good positioning and focus on purpose, Fuji can build the best (fixed lens street) camera on the market.

Also Chris from Pal2tech is great for Fuji gear one of the best

X-E2 + 27f2.8

Injured Loggerhead sea turtle being rescued in Jupiter, Florida.

My shortlist: Chris and Jordan from DPReview, bigheadtaco, Denae & Andrew, Dustin Abbott, Ted Forbes (Art of...) and grandmaster Hugh Brownstone (3bmep). For inspiration I turn to Ted Vieira... not so short list after all and the common denominator is that they refrain from "awesome", "epic" and "I have more gear than God"... 😉 adding Gordon Laing to my long list...

I also include Zack Arias and Denae & Andrew on YouTube in my list.

ABSOLUTELY NOT. I am awaiting the X-T4 with baited breath and will have it the 1st day it is in the shop! I am totally bewildered why stills photographers have to be so vocally ANTI video features. Why can't people just use what they want and ignore what they don't. I specifically bought and own Fuji X kit, to shoot video, AND stills, but don't complain about non video features. For me the IBIX, the flippy LCD, which can be turned inwards for protection, the roughly double battery life and the separated photo/video menus are all significant, and equally so for stills as video shooters.

I use this lens frequently. The thread size is 77mm.

i kind of also think it's bull...considering they moved the x-t4 more towards video and the x-pro3 is very very niche with that weird screen...although fuji know their numbers best... i don't get why the viewfinder has to be on top and in the middle? especially on mirrorless...is it just for the looks?

1. DxO refuses to have anything to do with X-Trans sensors. Until very recently, they refused to have anything to do with Fujifilm at all, even their Bayer-sensored cameras. 2. Fujifilm -- along with Olympus, Panasonic, and Ricoh/Pentax -- honors the traditional "18% gray" brightness target value. That brightness goal was set during the days of B&W photography, and we've learned that color photographs tend to look a bit "underexposed" at that brightness level. For that reason, Canon's DSLRs derate the ISO number, so that you get about one stop brighter image -- about 35% gray. Sony does the same, and Nikon changed over about a decade back. So the "Big 3" manufacturers all use an ISO rating system that produces images about a stop brighter than those produced by Fuji/Oly/Panny/Pentax. What is measured as ISO 200 on the old "18% gray" plan is now being marked as ISO 100 by the big brands. In fact, when NIkon made the change, people commented about how Nikon DSLRs used to only go down to ISO 200 but now were going down to ISO 100. To get 18% gray on one of the big guy's cameras, you need to meter at twice the ISO that the camera is set to. [By the way, Canon tried the 18% gray target in the Rebel XTi/400D DSLR, and people complained about how dark its pictures were.] When using in-camera metering on Fuji, the multi-zone metering runs about a stop brighter than the "dumb" metering modes. That way Fuji produces the same bright color images that the Big 3 manufacturers do -- in Multi metering mode. But the difference in brightness between in-camera metering modes catches a lot of people off-guard. Personal opinion: the days of "18% gray" are behind us. Canon, Nikon, and Sony have long abandoned that standard, and virtually nobody has complained. It's probably time for Fuji/Oly/Panny/Pentax to make the change, too.

Wrong, The flippy screen destroys the ease of use enjoyed with the articulating screen of the XT-3 - just for starts. I'm afraid my next upgrade won't happen until Fuji starts making cameras again instead of camcorders. Just my opinion, but I believe there are plenty others out there that agree with me.

Welcome to our forum! The X-T10 would not really be a step up since it's an older model than the X-T100. Go for the X-T30 (or X-T3).

The video features of any camera have absolutely no bearing on stills photography. None. Nothing. Ever. So having video in Fuji cameras hasn’t hurt you as a stills only photographer.

First post, lets see if I can do this...

Hi, Shot from streets of Istanbul XH1+16/1.4 Hungry by Abdulaziz Ceylan, on Flickr

Is this thread still a thing? I know I'm late to the party, but after looking at all that food, I feel compelled to comment. But first, I must say, many compliments to Chef! Your food looks awesome. As the second post notes, this is real food, not the staged stuff. I'm probably not smart enough to just stay out of this, especially since the thread is so old. However, I looked at all your photos on Flickr, and noticed a couple things. First, I see that every shot was in Auto Exposure mode, and your metering mode varied some. Your lighting also seemed to vary from ambient to occasional flash, although I didn't see any utilizing TTL. I haven't photographed any food, but I've done some product shots for my wife's craft endeavors. As a starting point for a shoot, I would suggest the following: If you're having trouble matching your lens to the framing in a manner that suits you, consider a small telephoto, but from what I see, your 50 mm lens should do OK. Put your camera in Manual mode. You'll need to know more about the scene than your camera does. Set your metering to Multi mode. Use a good speedlight off-camera with an umbrella or softbox. A light stand for your key light, and a tripod for the camera. Have a white reflector or two to control the shadows. Set the aperture wide open for framing only. Set the shutter to sync speed, or slower. Set the flash on manual at 1/4 power, and face it into the umbrella. Now set the aperture to f8 or f11. You won't be able to see the shot well, but the flash is now essentially your exposure, shutter speed, and key light. Take a test shot and evaluate. Move the flash power and/or compensate it until you get an exposure that suits you. If you don't want to go so far as the umbrella, you can probably do well bouncing the flash and using a reflector or two. You also mentioned you're working in a small space. I find using Camera Remote works well when you can't huddle around the camera body. Once you get a composition and light coverage you like, make the flash power the fine tuning for the exposure. I don't see a scenario such that the flash will do a good job on-camera. It needs to be off. Did you get an EF-X8 flash with your camera? I find that little flash in Commander mode works extremely well triggering any larger flash with an optical slave mode. I hope this helps literally anyone, but I can't write more right now; I'm going to the OP's website to look at more food right now.

Since there is no topic for landscapes in b&w, I thought let's create one... Cloudy day by #1923#, auf Flickr

Food photography is all about styling. Photography is simple, use a sturdy tripod since exposures can be on the long side, normal lens for natural perspective, f/8.0 or f/11 for adequate depth of field, base ISO setting. The Toit would do fine. Since the food is not in motion, there is no problem doing a four-second exposure at f/11 at ISO200. Unless you just can not get the whole image in focus, don't go much beyond f/11. Diffraction has already begun at f/11, though it is still not noticeable. Beyond f/11 it increases substantially. Do a test shot. If it is over or under, use the exposure compensation dial to nail it. The food is totally patient, so there is no need to rush while getting it right. Manual exposure works fine as well. Avoid wide apertures. Food really needs to be fully seen and shallow depth of field simply looks out of focus. Consider the background. Unless it carries with it some meaningful information, a bit of softness does not hurt. Of course, this nullifies the prime advantage of the 56mm, which is far more suited to photographing people where shallow DOF can be useful. If I needed the added focal length, I would trade for the brilliantly sharp 60mm f/2.4 which also gives you much more closeup capability. If you have not studied food styling, you will be amazed at the voodoo that goes into it. Most photographed food is inedible. That perfectly done turkey has been varnished the perfect colour and shine! Ice cream melts, so mashed potatoes or lard are used in its place. Ice also melts, so ice cubes and crushed ice is clear plastic. Sparkling vegetables have been sprayed with glycerine. Grapes get their patina via talcum powder. It is well covered on the web. Search for 'food photography tricks of the trade'. If anything the X-T2 is overkill. The images on your page are less than one megapixel. You are throwing away more than 23MP of detail. What could a more expensive camera possibly give you? If you were shooting food professionally, it is fully capable of display prints for use in mall food booths or restaurants, of enormous size and clarity. If you have doubts, don't take my word for it. Rent a dSLR and try using it and the X-T2 on the same setup.

Hello, For my first post, I wanted to share some of my N.Y.C photos taken with my x-e2 ! 1) 2) 3) Have a nice day

Hello, took by 50-140