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Just go out and shoot with it, the X100v is a brilliant camera with a fantastic lens. I shoot at f8 to F2 with great results. Check out Fuji weekly for some great film simulations.

Welcome @dgeorge959. Both are excellent cameras and depending on the lens you're using, they should be very suitable for landscapes too. Image quality is the same. I've had both and I've also used them professionally for a while. Just a short list of the most significant differences that I can recall. - There's obviously quite a difference in the form factor of the camera. The H1 has a deep grip and is a bit less 'retro-styled'. For long handheld shoots I prefer the H1, but you can also mount a grip to the T2 to reach more or less similar. However, mounting a grip on the T2 doesn't change the position of the shutter release button and that is again a way better experience with the H1 for long handheld shooting. Of course this is all moot, when you use a tripod; - The H1 is a bit more robust built and has slightly better weather-sealing. It is more aimed at 'pro-use'. The outer coating is more resistant to scratches and markings. The mount is more robust to better handle large lenses like the 200mm and the 100-400 zoom. The result is that the H1 is a bit bigger and heavier, but compared to your 5D still small; - The H1 has an annoying bug in some series: occasionally you get read/write errors when writing to the SD Cards. The only way out is to switch off and on the camera. Always use the Fuji recommended SD cards, insert/eject with care (camera switched off) and format the cards in the camera (every time after transferring the files). But even then... I've had 3 H1's over 3 years time and 2 of them had the recurring issue. Fuji wasn't able to fix it. I never heard of T2's with the similar recurring issue, but the T3 has it as well. Many Fuji-users have never experienced it, but it's an annoying issue for a small group; - Obviously the H1 has IBIS (in-body image stabilization) but that is less relevant for landscape shooting. However, even when you turn it off, the H1 uses noticeable more battery power than the T2. So, while they use the same battery, you really want at least 1 or 2 spare batteries with the H1; - The H1 has the top sub-LCD which I always found very handy. However, this comes at the expense of the exposure compensation dial on the T2 top plate. The H1 has a button combined with the front- or rear dial for Exp. Comp. It's a matter of preference and getting used to; - The H1 has a touch screen as LCD. Fortunately you can switch it off entirely, because it's not a very good one (slow, lagging and sometimes non-responsive). It takes up battery life as well. In landscape photography it can be a nice feature to select focus points (when on tripod) and release the shutter, but most users I know, switch it off anyway; - The H1 has Bluetooth connectivity to the Fuji app (the T2 only Wifi). Bluetooth works way better, but the Fuji app is still 'crap' so you might not need it. A real significant difference though is the EVF. The H1 has a visibly much better EVF with higher resolution but also, more importantly. a higher refresh rate resulting in smoother movements and less noise in low-light situations; - The AF is more or less the same, but the H1 was designed for high speed action/sports. In my experience the AF of the H1 reacts a bit quicker when a subject is moving (less threshold) but the result is that specifically with eye-AF the H1 can sometimes erratically switch between eyes with only the slightest movement. The T2 is a bit more 'relaxed' and as a result sometimes works better in AF-C mode. However, with landscape this might not interest you at all; - More important is that the H1 allows you to change the behavior of the manual focus ring on the lens. Not only the direction, but also the response (linear vs. non-linear). When you work with MF (like many do in landscape photography) linear MF allows you to control the ring way better. The focus shift isn't depending anymore on the speed with which you move the ring (like it is with non-linear). The T2 only supports non-linear. Some of the Fujinon lenses have a focus clutch with hard stops on the lens (the 14/2.8, the 16/1.4 and the old 23/1.4. For those lenses it doesn't make a difference. - Both cameras a popular on the second-hand market, but the H1 a bit more. So, expect to pay a premium for an H1 in very good condition. The difference is easily $200-300 between comparable T2's and H1's. I hope this has helped you a bit to make a choice

I see two separate discussions here: (1) whether full-frame (FF) is actually 'better' than cropped sensors (APS-C) and (2) whether Fujifilm should enter the FF market. (1) in terms of image quality, bigger sensors have an advantage over smaller sensors. It's basic physics (and electronics). It depends however on comparing sensors of similar generations. A 10y old design is most likely less in terms of IQ than a recent design. You need to compare apples with apples... Whether or not the difference in IQ is visible, is a totally different matter. That depends on quality of the rest of the camera, quality of lenses, quality and size of the viewing screen or prints, ability of the photographer... et cetera. Whether the difference in IQ matters is an even more personal question. That is a matter of budget, weight and size you're willing to carry, personal preference for a camera brand or the purpose of use... A landscape stills camera has different requirements than a fast action sports hybrid camera... So, technically a bigger sensor generally has better IQ than a smaller sensor, but there are many more factors that determine the 'best camera for you'. (2) Fujifilm is a fairly large corporate, but the camera division in itself isn't particularly large. It's smaller than e.g. Nikon's and Panasonic's imaging divisions and more than 5x smaller than Sony's imaging division. Moreover, back in the late 2000's, the camera division of Fujifilm was on the brink of being closed. The X-system was the 'last attempt' to address the photographers market and they succeeded. In itself that was a great success, because the market for digital cameras (compact + interchangeable lens cameras) shrunk with more than 90% between 2010 and 2020. Their bet to stay close to affordable, but good quality ILCs paid off. They found a niche market and by focusing on that market (compact APS-C cameras, a decent lens line, retro styling and film simulations) they became the dominant player next to Sony. By 2015 Fujifilm made the decision to launch a digital cropped medium format. That wasn't strange, since in the days of film Fujifilm medium format cameras had a good reputation for being rugged and affordable whereas in the 35mm camera market Fujica was a 'B-brand' at best. Again, MF is a niche market in which they could become a dominant player. Also note that Fujifilm doesn't manufacture it's own sensors. They buy from Sony. That means that they will always be a little behind in terms of the latest generation of sensors. Usually 6-9 months. Now, when entering the FF market it's like you enter the shark pool. It takes a lot of money and other resources to succeed and even then be only #3 or #4 in the market. Imagine: you not only have to design and produce a range of cameras, but also the accompanying lenses. None of the X-mount lenses will cover a FF-sensor. All of the GF-mount lenses are too big and slow for FF (but great for MF). Next to that, when you want a professional FF-system, you have to set-up a world-wide Professional Support Service that operates 24/7 and is present at all large events (Olympics, World Cups, UN, EU, WEF, G7 and G20 events... you name it). That is very different from their current basic FPS for a handful of MF fashion photographers... ;-). So, I guess that Fujifilm gladly forfeits the FF-market and focuses on markets where they can be a dominant player. Given their size and the shrinking of the market, I think that is a smart strategy.

The RP is "full frame" like all those '90s era stereo receivers that were "digital ready." Its made of plastic, not WR, its DR is poor, AF nothing special; its sensor tech is generations behind even for Canon. It lacks IBIS, in addition to anything like the full scan 4K of the X-T4. A more apt comparison would be to the R6, which is a pretty compelling camera-except for the part where it's most of a grand more than a T4. And then there's RF glass which, while optically stellar, makes Fuji lenses seem downright thrifty in price. Fuji makes really great APS-C cameras, and really great medium format cameras. Lots of companies make really great full frame cameras, so I think Fuji is in the right to go the way they are.

After upgrading my iPhone to IOS 15 the Cam Remote app fails to connect to the camera (X100V). Re-installed the app - no change. Anyone with the same issue, and hopefully a solution?

Rick, I only just found this thread and can see all your questions have been answered. I too came to the XS10 recently after using Pentax SLRs since 1969, and of course Pentax DSLRs later. Really just welcoming you here. I set my XS10 similar to yourself except I do prefer the lens aperture ring. I still can't get used to having to switch the camera on before focusing and zooming, when with DSLR I very often did that first, before deciding whether the shot would be worth taking. That habit probably came from starting with film SLRs. I tried both XT4 and XS10 before buying and much preferred the latter's handling, my only concern being its lack of weather sealing, because that was always a Pentax feature I found I could trust. Cheers, Simon

Steam Engine Driver Railway Museum Dieringhausen, Germany

Hi All, Hope that some encountered that problem before and can help. I get my X-T4 a few weeks ago with FW 1.17 and it seemed to work correctly but just for the sake of having most up-to-date version I updated to 1.22). After the update my fav view mode ([EYE SENSOR] + [LCD IMAGE DISP.]) is corrupted. It essentially keeps the LCD on whenever eye is away from EVF. Image preview is set 1.5 sec and is displayed correctly only on LCD screen. I set the LCD do info screen but it's not really how I'd like to have it working. I was hoping that 1.23 will fix it but unfortunately no change after yesterday's release. Thank you in advance! R.

Thanks guys Yes, I imagine the card has probably had it. I have just order a decent replacement. Thankfully, I managed to retrieve my files from the card. Thanks for suggesting Olaf. I didn't even realise you could do that! I used EaseUS. It only allows you to recover 2Gb, but I managed to get most of the good stuff back. Thanks again for your help Dave

Do you hear the camera's mechanical noises? You can switch to the electronic shutter to eliminate the shutter noise. Closing the aperture to the working value also produces noise. The only way to eliminate that noise is to set the working aperture to the maximum value (f/2.0).

The noise is mainly determined by the exposure (shutter speed and aperture), not by ISO. That is why some do not see much noise at ISO 3200, and some do. With any camera, to minimize the noise, you want to open the aperture and slow down shutter speed as it fits your creative constraints (DOF, object movement, camera shake).

Well I don't think Fuji will be re-designing lenses for a higher MP sensor. At least I don't think so. I do remember the days when I used my Nikon bevy of lenses on my D300, D700 and D3 which were 12mp cameras and then upgraded to the 36mp D800E beast. Honestly, other than having to manually fine-tune each lens to the D800 I did not see any degradation in image quality. But, these were all Nikon lenses; I'm not sure how third party lenses would have fared back then as I didn't own any. Personaly, if I were to by the XH-2, I would have no qualms whatsoever using ANY of my Fuji lenses with the upgraded 40MP Body.

Yup its an known issue that was developed at 1.22 meant to be fixed with 1.22 and people had mixed experiences

Hello everybody my name is Omar I recently got a Fujifilm X-S10 with a 16-80mm kit lens and a Viltrox 23mm lens. I'm really getting to know my camera more intimately little it's taking a little bit of time but I've only had it for 2 weeks. Initially started taking some pictures to kind of understand focal lengths, and how they differ from full frame to APC-S sensors, I did a lot of research into the camera lineup set, and search the as many of their lenses as I could and ultimately decided that I needed a fast prime lens to compliments my zoom lens, so I decided that the 23 mm is the best choice in the type of photography I want to get, which is groups of friends having fun together and enjoying their lives. It is not ultra wide but it is wide enough to get some my photography and a videography into my routine. My journey into finding the perfect camera was a long and treacherous one I thought about a lot of cameras and really the difference between full frame and APS-C sensors. For a long time I've been eyeing the Sony a7s2 as it's night capabilities seems to be out of this world, but for something that is essentially a hobby it seems like a lot of money to throw into something that I might not fully commit to so I wanted something that was more reasonably priced but I had all the new features that a camera of this day and age should have. I didn't want something that was not very user friendly and was a few years old because I assumed that it might not be the best option, giving the fact that I'm just a amateur photographer and didn't have any real experience with composition, videography, editing or producing. I wanted something that could get my feet wet and work for both videography and photography, something that I could blog with and that has the capabilities found in professional cameras, without completely breaking the bank. I understand that the most important part is the lens and that the camera is only an extension of that, but I still couldn't shake the feeling that I wanted something amazing something to grow with. Of the many cameras that I've researched I've narrowed it down to Sony Canon and Fujifilm. THE one thing that really attracted me to the Fujifilm camera was the fact that I was looking for a camera that was unique, and somehow the look really got me curious into the system. No I'm not a nostalgic guy I've never owned a film lens or a old lens but I found it to be the retro look that seem like something that is novelty, something of a characteristic of the brand as they love to keep to their roots. It's it's this and the high praise of YouTubers that gave me a really high work to the camera and the brand. The history behind the film simulations was something which greatly picked my curiosity into the brand. I thought about a Sony and a Canon as a initial buy and a full frame cameras as well, however I wanted something that was a user friendly and compact with good auto settings. I got really familiar with the manual mode that is found in my phone. It was quite robust and it had a few modes of recording that was unique to the LG brand. I wanted something that gave me more control something of a real camera for a very long time, yeah I didn't want something that would tie me down just to manual mode I wanted something that had a good auto mode and that it was playful. My goal is to make beautiful impactful images something that captures the moment in rich detail with good composition. I really love night photography of those with long exposures as well as street photography. Ultimately I do see the benefits of a full frame for night photography but more than just a sensor, I wanted something that I can grow with and really experience the joy of just shooting. It was quite difficult to choose the X-S10 over the XT4 or XT3. This camara didn't have the retro look that it first attracted me to the brand, it is not weather sealed, the battery life it's not something to write home about, but somehow the charm was still there. It met every criteria I was looking for and even some that I was not like the ergonomics, the fun shooting modes and the feature specs like flip out screen that really drove home the idea that I can get what is essentially their flagship model on a smaller size with practically most of the features of the XT4. No I am still learning and would really love your input and getting to know my cameras hidden tips and tricks, but that would be on a separate thread thank you for listening

This is interesting. Similar to you, I have close to 300K images cataloged in LR as I have yet to find a better database. I'm diligent about key-wording so I can find any image or shoot I need in a second or two. I start my workflow in Photo Mechanic for a couple reasons: 1. It's super fast. 2. When key-wording and rating in PM, it writes to both the RAW and JPEG (I shoot raw+jpeg) which the LR import module does not do. I plan to try a migration of my LR images to ON1 Photo Raw and C1 to see how they do. Based on others' experiences I sort of expect C1 to fail but in talking with ON1 I think Photo Raw should be able to handle it. The question is how it will perform once there are a few hundred thousand images cataloged. I'll post my results here once I do it. So do you do your culling and rating in C1 along with the editing? And then move them to your "Roundtrip" folder for subsequent import/cataloging into LR? Thanks for the input. Happy shooting! Joel

open thread.

I use LR for minimal adjustments and mostly for the digital asset management. I have over 250,000 images in LR right now. However, I use Capture One Pro for 95% of all my editing needs. My jpegs (from my GFX50r) are 40mb, and the TIFF's from raw are 310mb in size. My XT files are much smaller. I have folders set up in LR (which are actually on my desktop) where I drop files into. Then I open C1Pro and sync that folder which I have set as a preset in C1Pro. Once I'm done processing in C1, I export into another folder called "Roundtrip from C1Pro which is also a default in C1pro and in LR. Back in LR, I then synch that folder and any jpegs and tiffs I generated are dropped in there. I can then move the finished images to the library for cataloging, keywording etc. Sounds complicated but I have it setup automatically and it works flawlessly for me. Hope this helps.

No, there's no risk of damage. Actually there's a setting in the AF Menu that allows you to work with manual focus overriding the autofocus of the camera (AF+MF). So you can let the camera do its AF and then manually fine-tune with the focus ring if needed.

This might be to do with your shutter type - it needs to be set to mechanical rather than electronic. Shooting Menu 3, the camera icon, under Shutter Type

With the silver TTArtisan 35/1.4. Champagne and silver don't clash too awfully badly.. Now that I know how it looks.. time to find out what it can do!

Hello everyone. Just starting out on my photography journey at the ripe old age of 57. Entry level start I’m afraid… X-T200, XC15-45, XC35 & XC50-230 but loving it! Lots to learn but ready for the challenge 😃

I guess you may well have discovered him already but if not check out Andy Mumford's youtube channel lots of fujifilm reviews and inspirational videos mostly aimed at landscape photographers.

Hi I understand you have to enter the length of the adapted lens in you menu and the IBIS will work Alex

Jerryy, I really like your train photos. I've seen the RJ Corman diesels in New Philadelphia, OH. Perhaps you can label future photos with the area they were taken in? Many thanks for sharing. Robert

The 10-24 is a great landscape lens. Often zoom lenses have a strong and a weak end and with the 10-24 the strong end is definitely towards the 10mm end, which is usually great for landscape. The 8-16 is an expensive alternative. I would only recommend it if you really need the f2.8 and the 8mm end. It requires special filterholders as well, which makes it even more expensive. It is good, though you need to stop down to f5.6 for best performance. Wide open it suffers a bit from vignetting and distortion, which is well corrected afterwards but correction always affects image quality in corners and edges. It’s also a bulky lens due to its nature. As for primes the most obvious choices are the 14/2.8 and the 16/1.4. The 16/1.4 is one of Fuji’s best XF lenses, but the 14 isn’t far behind. Both have the focus clutch that allows you to manually focus with hard stops. Great for landscape. A lesser known alternative is the Zeiss Touit 12/2.8 for X-mount. This is a fantastic lens. It has the great Zeiss color rendering and contrast. You only need to be a bit aware of potential flare and ghosting. So be careful whenever the sun is in the frame. I have no experience with the Samyang/Rokinon lenses for Fuji. There seems to be a great 10mm prime… It’s only manual focus though…

I was thinking about this today and it occurred to me that I could use one of the seven custom profiles as a 'reset' in effect, just as you described. I just set it up and it works fine. Appreciate your reply - thanks!

I encountered the same problem with my XT30. ES and Video (even on F-Log) works. Can't remember if the camera is heating up more or faster than it usually does but it does really heat up at the bottom right side of the body, where the battery should be. Please help, I haven't tried using it again out of fear it might get worse. Thank you so much!

Fujifilm have been very astute in not joining the full frame market which is saturated with Sony, Nikon, Panasonic, Pentax, Canon, Leica - have I missed anyone else? Fuji are a big company but with a relatively small camera division. They have found their niche.

I am sorry but I cannot support the current trend for full frame sensors. Thankfully one manufacturer is not chasing full frame. I was a Canon and Nikon user. The Canon and Nikon full frame mirrorless cameras are too heavy and expensive which is why I switched to Fuji. Do not force Fuji to waste its R&D on full frame. Bigger sensors result in more mega-pixels needing more powerful PCs to edit the images meaning more expense. The images from my X-S10 are as good as the images from my friends Canon R6.

The X-S10 is my first Fuji camera, for me it makes photography more fun while getting professional results. I've been a Pentax user since the 1970's but I'm very happy with the decision to purchase Fuji over other camera brands.

First shot with XF70-300mmF4-5.6 R LM OIS WR at 100 mm f4.6 1/500s came out pretty well if I may say so 🙂

Keel-billed toucan

Mourning Dove (Zenaida macroura)

... Buchfink (Fringilla coelebs) by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr

with XF100-400 + 1.4 TC on X-H1 ... Kleiber (Sitta europaea) by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr

Tiger by JS-photographie, auf Flickr

Artemus

Monte - X100S

Beluga X-Pro1 & Fuji 35mm f2

Sorry, but this is a terribly wrong myth. Each lens is designed for optimal convergence of light at a specific flange distance (register distance). At this distance maximum resolution (and minimum aberrations) is achieved. Some lenses are more prone to aberrations/degradation when this optimal distance is going to be altered, some are more tolerant. The more tolerant ones are those that are most suitable for being used with bellows or extension tubes. One of the best macro lenses ever made, the Leica Apo-Macro-Elmarit-R 100mm f2.8, is relatively prone to flange distance changes, and Leica does not recommend using it with any extension! Same goes with the Fujifilm XF 60mm f2.4 Macro. I had/have both and can confirm that from experience. The Leica performs much better with Leica’s Apo 2x teleconverter than with any extension (the converter doubles the reproduction ratio as it retains minimum focus distance). The Fujifilm XF 60 I tried with the Fujifilm extension tubes – and gave up. As for the main topic here, the XF 90 with Raynox 250 is a surprisingly nice performing combo indeed.

Hello, my name is Uwe and I'm from Germany. You can find my bio and work at www.uwerichterphotography.de And this is how I look: Cheers Uwe