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Summer call X100VI

Thanks for this, Jerry. In fact my camera was already set to Auto + Manual but the schoolboy error I made was to turn the control wheel the wrong way i.e. towards Maximum aperture instead of Minimum - which of course works!

Even if it was exactly the same hardware (which I doubt) the firmware updater would prevent the installation.

This is the fourth time my XT4 has failed. It's back to Fujifilm for a repair again now. I've had repairs in 2022, 2023 (straight back in 2023) and now here in 2024. I take very good care of my cameras, I'm amazed this keeps happening. Here's a video of my fault: https://photos.app.goo.gl/iFzd1kS2aZSNLCHL9

X100VI

Thank you for your reply jerryy. I will take it to the repair shop and see what they say. Thank you, I really hope so too 😊

Hi folks, I got an official reply about the "Interlock MF assist & Focus ring" option with MF lenses. Don’t fret, what you’re experiencing is normal. The question that would showcase why it’s not working would be: “How would the camera know when the focus ring is moved without a way of communicating that to the camera body if there are no contacts on the lens to pass that information?” Essentially with FUJIFILM lenses (and basically almost all new lenses from every manufacturer), moving the focus ring changes focus electronically so the camera knows when the ring is moved through software/hardware, without that, like with vintage lenses with mechanical focus, there isn’t a way for the camera to electronically know when the ring is moved, so the function won’t work as intended to turn off/on MF assist when the focus ring is engaged.

A friend told us that one cannot have just one cat and she was correct as Peaches, our sweet Ginger girl, found us at the rescue shelter when we went to visit. Peaches X-H2s, Fuji 150-600. Another photo of Peanut our huntress and my lap kitty. Peanut X-T50, Viltrox 75mm F1.4.

XH2 with XF 33 wr

Good grief! Is this a joke? I really cannot imagine what is wrong. I have had an X-T5 for over a year. I don't have any focus issues and I have made many exhibition prints up to A2 size. I can say this. No, it will not recognise different objects automatically. You have to set the required object. However, you shouldn't really need that function for general shooting anyway. Assign a button to face detect and set the eye detect to auto. I rarely have an out of focus portrait. Bear in mind that if you are using your zoom at the long end, the depth of field wil, be narrow. What do you want pixel shift for? Unless you want to make billboard size enlargements you don't need it. Also, it only works with the camera locked down on a tripod and a subject that is absolutely still. What body wear problems? I have not experienced any. The X-T5 is not a video centric camera. I have not heard of any overheating problems though.

Just dropping in to say hi! My names James, I originally joined years ago and then promptly sold my Fuji gear before posting even an intro. I’ve now got an X-H2 winging its way to me so hopefully I’ll hang about a bit longer this time 😬

Welcome back 🙂

Hello all, I'm electronics design engineer, joining up to the forum after converting to GFX from a decades long hobby photography with Nikon F (D50,D80,D200,D800). My most focus is on landscape, starscape and scenery photography, as well as lot of macro and product photo. Looking forward to experiment with new to me GFX system and adapt some cheap lenses to it, since it's all just a hobby.

Welcome!

The only solution would be to change the profile to match the RAF settings - or just let the software make that change for you.

Ok, got it working now, was a bit confusing to to figure it out... In View Mode Setting > Shooting > ONLY 1. option (Eye sensor) and 4. option (VF+EyeSensor-VF only+Sensor) result in the desired VF image playback function. My View Mode Setting > Playback - was set to > Eye Sensor - This has no impact on that function, very unlogic in my opinion. Any way, problem solved, thanks again 👍

You are using a camera with pretty big sensor and a lot of MP. This sensor have a big readout time so you need to hold the camera still and shoot static scenes to use the electronic shutter, otherwise you will get a rollingshatter effect (just this effect in your pictures). Try to switch to mechanical shutter to be sure that this effect will not be repeated at a crucial moment.

Agreed - although in looking for a solution I would go through the functions that could result in movement - especially image #147 - which could be due to electronic shutter but it looks as though the camera would have been rotated while the image was taken

Hey, im from a small town just outside Glasgow. Im new to manual photography, and just bought a Fujifilm X-T20, with an 18-55mm lens. Its the best camera ive ever had. I love how easy it is to use, and customise exactly how you want. So far, ive just been taking photos of wildlife and birds.

Sometimes, issues like these can be complex and difficult to diagnose, especially if they're intermittent.

After 20 years with Canon (EOS100, 300D, 5D2, 7D2) I ditched everything and moved to Fuji XH2S a year and a half ago. I had been holding out for a mirrorless 7D2 but was disappointed when the R7 was released and realised that the XH2S was actually what the R7 should have been, and Fuji seem to be the only company taking APSC seriously. It also felt like Canon were pricing themselves out of the enthusiast market (£120 for a battery, come on!). Blocking third party lenses was the final straw for me as most of my lenses had been Sigma. Anyway, I haven't looked back since. Is the XH2S perfect? No, but everything is a compromise and this gives me the best functionality/weight/price balance for what I do. I shoot mainly wildlife and landscapes but occasionally other stuff like local events, all just for fun.

Fuji has published an overview of lenses which in their view are optimized for the new 40MP sensor. In my opinion people are reading way too much in that list. Two examples: the relatively new 16-80/f4 is not on that list, while at the same time it is the preferred kit lens with the X-T5. Second example: the 10-24/f4 WR isn't on that list either, while the 23/f2 is. Now the latter has known issues with corner/edge sharpness esp. at f2 and when close focusing. When you look at the data that e.g. Fototest.de publishes about these lenses, you see that the 10-24/f4 WR is way sharper than the relatively 'soft' 23/f2. My conclusion is that the list was composed for marketing purposes and that you can safely use the lenses you mention on the 40MP sensor and still be able to 'see' the increase in resolution. It will be different for every lens, but the difference between e.g., the 35/f2 and the 23/f2 (both on the list) is just as significant as the difference between the 16-55/f2.8 (on the list) and the 16-80/f4 (not on the list). Just a reminder re. resolution. When you print your images 20x30cm, you most likely won't see any difference between the 26MP and 40MP sensor. The difference will appear as from approx. 45x70cm prints and larger (at 300dpi). The two main purposes of higher resolution cameras are (a) print bigger and (b) crop heavier. True, many users look at their screens and zoom it at 100 or 200% and 'see' the difference, but that's not how you look at images. So, unless you print big or crop heavy, 40MP are not a 'must have' and the differences between the different XF-lenses will remain unnoticed. In fact, it's also good to bear in mind that 40MP come at a cost. I did some tests with a X-H2 on loan compared to an X-T3 that we still have, and it showed that at ISO3200 and above the 40MP sensor is substantially noisier than the 26MP sensor. That might be also something to consider before jumping on the 40MP bandwagon.

Minolta 58/1.2 - adapter K&F concept MD-GFX - GFX50R full open

Okay, technically just after sunset. but the last of the sunlight is still coloring the clouds moving in. The "star" in the lower mid section (just below the tree branch) is Jupiter.