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If you give the shutter button a half-push the focus box changes to green (when the camera af is on letting you know af has locked on to something) you may be able to use that idea to locate the box and then move it as you need to. The idea is based on the technique called “focus and re-compose”. Essentially as you start to look through the viewfinder, half-push the shutter button, by the time you get the camera to your eye, the af should have the box color in green.

Can you find somewhere to try holding the cameras? They are quite different in size and layout and that might help you make up your mind. The X-E4 with the 27mm lens is very small and easier to carry around.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the E4 and T3 have identical sensors and processors?

The X-T3 because of the BSI sensor.

It features steps in thirds.

Thinking about the 100S. Read you need a lot of capacity for the large files. What would I need? Thank you

My neighbor makes these bells from expired gas tanks. X-H1, 70-300+1.4TC @ F8, 1/750 sec. Acros+R. X-H1, 70-300+1.4TC, Acros+R.

I just wanted to share with you my solution to ND filters. I often had trouble with flaring and finding the correct sizes for my manual lenses. Using this system, I only need one filter. I made this filter out of a sunglasses lens. I cut it out with scissors. Originally it was just a weird experiment but somehow it works perfectly with no flaring or quality loss No part of the lens or shutter is obstructed. Maybe certain lenses aren't compatible? All the lenses I have work normally. The filter just sit there. It can fall out, but when the lens is mounted, the filter stays in place extremely well for some reason. On the older Fujifilm cameras like xpro 1, you only have a maximum of 1/4000. I have a f1.2 lens that requires a minimum of 1/20,000 in bright sunlight.

I guess you hit the display button which cycles the different options.

Fujifilm's Raw File Convertor will allow you to apply the film simulations your camera natively supports and you can export the files as TIFFs. https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/products/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/ DarkTable also does this: https://www.darktable.org/ Actually, just check the docs for the raw convertors you like, to see if they support the films simulations you like, (mostly they will only support the ones that are native to your camera -- you will not be able to use the ones for the X-T4 in your X-T30 files, etc.) just about all of them lets you export files as TIFF, it is a standard file format.

No. You can export raw photos and use a processing software to apply the film simulation, maybe one of them can use tiffs, but I doubt it.

extremely unlikely. there are massive chip shortages and delays for nearly all forms of electronics worldwide due to pandemic and economic issues. the X100V is 2 years old in a lineup that historically has been updated every 3 years... so it is "due" in 2023. considering its huge popularity and lack of competition in the space (at least anywhere near the price point) I wouldn't be surprised if all these issues caused fuji to keep it until 2024 instead of 2023 before the next model. we shall see, but I'm nearly certain no new X100 camera is coming this year.

Hello, thanks for replies. I just solved it by using third party external intervalometer. by doing this you need not keep a watch on the screen. Regards

A photo of the bridge that crosses the Alsea Bay in Waldport, Oregon where I currently live. Taken in one of our many rain storms along the coast of Oregon with an X-H1 and the 18mm F1.4,

Both are excellent cameras. This may help you decide… https://cameradecision.com/compare/Fujifilm-X-E4-vs-Fujifilm-X-T3 I find it very helpful when trying to compare two cameras.

https://www.digicamdb.com/compare/fujifilm_x-e4-vs-fujifilm_x-t3/

I doubt it - it probably needs the faster processor - more likely to wait and implement in the X-T5

Sorry but xpro3 deserves only primes ! It’s all about the balance btw lens & body. Let’s use a 50mm f2 and put a 16mm f2.8 in your pocket with a 2nd battery.

For what it is worth, a L-bracket can lift the body up enough to let you use many of the 'wide' lens with those older tripod heads. Ones built for the X-Tmn line let you get to the battery/card and side connectors without hassles. The ones for the X-T10 work on the X-T20 and the X-T30 as well, they are pretty much interchangeable. Or switch to basic Arca-Swiss plated ball heads. These can be svelte enough for just about all lenses. And work with L-brackets. The 1/4-20 thread is an industry standard, so if your old head unscrews from the legs, you can put the new head on non-proprietary legs.

Wouldn't it make more sense for you to look for a simple spacer so that you get more distance between the tripod plate and the camera?

(Mid) April's full moon is the Pink Moon... Just at sunset. Okay it was not all that much pink after all. https://www.timeanddate.com/astronomy/moon/pink.html

This is an old thread, I know, but I bought this 50 mm f/1.0 lens recently. It's pretty amazing. Cost a lot, though!

The land before you is in Glacier National Park, known as the Jackson Glacier Overlook... the milky way was a bonus. X-T1 | Rokinon 12mm f/2.0 lens

SHYNESS X-T20; K&F concept adapter + NIKON ED AF Micro-Nikkor 200mm; tripod; 1/30; f5.6; ISO500 DSCF9142 felinae 2018

I'm happy to report that my friend Dave the Cat is regrowing fur on the site of his injury, just below his left ear! X-H1 + 35mm 1.4 @ 1/50 f5.6 ISO800

Black Cat relax on a hill of stones

We call him Blaubart. A guest cat, which visit us from time to time.

Unfortunately not, I only have a manual lens and few film lenses with an adapter. The problem is consistent across all of the lenses :(