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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/25/2020 in all areas

  1. 8 points


    From the album: Random/Anything

  2. 4 points
    Somewhere in Flanders All shot with the X-pro2 and a 7Artisans 12mm
  3. 3 points

    Fuji Birds

    Keel-billed toucan
  4. 3 points

    Trains (open thread)

    Underside of an active trestle bridge.
  5. 3 points

    Landscapes in b&W (open thread)

    Fuji X-T3 and 10-24 Godrevy Lighthouse - SW Cornwall
  6. 3 points
    M Wales

    landscapes with fuji x

    X-Pro3 & 16 2.8
  7. 2 points

    Gin Bar, Bath

    Shot with original Fuji X100
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points

    landscapes with fuji x

    Roadside Barn
  10. 2 points

    Summer is gone...

    From the album: Rokphish Gallery

  11. 2 points

    _My World !

    From the album: Fuji ex 2

  12. 2 points

    RAF underexposed in Affinty Photo

    Rico Pfirstinger wrote some books on Fuji X-cameras incl. a few pages on DR. It's in all of his X-pert Tips books. Furthermore, cambridgeincolour.com has extensive explanation pages on all sorts of photographic topics. Just search on their site for dynamic range. The key is that you cannot correct blown-out highlights but it is easy to correct deep shadows in post processing. Cameras have two ways of addressing this: either an HDR-feature or an extended DR feature. The extended DR-setting on the camera works for jpegs. It typically underexposes your raw file by 1 or 2 stops and than with the in-camera raw conversion to jpeg it leaves the highlights as is and amplifies only the midtones and shadows to produce a jpeg with detailed highlights (because under exposed) and nice blacks and greys (corrected in camera). Effectively its 1 extra stop of DR in practice. The HDR feature actually creates multiple images with an exposure bracket and combines these images into one, using the highlights of the underexposed image and the shadows and midtones of the other images. HDR can also be used for raw images in post. As for your typical situation, you only use raw-files and no jpeg I believe. Best approach IMO is to leave the DR setting to 100% and do the exposure correction in Affinity Photo. In order to do that you should set the live view function on to see the effect of the exposure on screen and switch on the histogram. Than set the exposure in such a way that the highlights (right part of the histogram) do not blow out. So stay within the border of the histogram at the right. The shadows might get blocked and the midtones way darker than you want, but that is easily corrected in post with the Shadow and Midtone sliders. By using this method you can use the base ISO of the camera (ISO100 in case of the GFX50R) which is always preferable in landscape photography. The fact that below ISO320 the camera limits you to DR 200% is because it needs 'room' to do the corrections. From 320 to 2 stops down is ISO80 which the camera cannot handle (ISO100 is the lowest) without trics like extended low ISO which you should only use as a last resort.
  13. 2 points


    From the album: Random/Anything

  14. 2 points


    From the album: Random/Anything

  15. 2 points

    Lens for indoor bird photography

    According to Fujifilm, the XF 18-55 at 55 mm has a maximum magnification of 1:6.67, while the XF 90 has a maximum magnification of 1:5. This means, when both lenses are at their close focus distance, the XF 90 should see a slightly tighter crop. The image area in the plane of focus of the XF 18-55 at 55 mm should be around 16.7 cm x 11.1 cm, while the image area of the XF 90 should be ~ 12.5 cm x 8.4 cm. I've added those frame lines to your image: But please also consider that your depth of field gets smaller as your magnification increases. So even if you buy a lens with better magnification and brighter aperture, you might still end up closing the aperture down to get the whole head in focus. I've added some pictures I took with the XF 80 f/2.8 wide open at f/2.8: (the last bird might even be a pigeon, but you'll know better than me) You can see that at f/2.8, the feathers at the back of the heads as well as the beaks are already very unsharp and out of focus in the portrait images while the eye is sharp. Even with less magnification as seen in the last picture, you can run into those problems.
  16. 2 points

    Fall pictures

    Hello to all, My small contribution... Fujifilm X-Pro3 & XF 80mm
  17. 2 points

    landscapes with fuji x

    Tracks and Trees:
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points

    Fuji Flowers

    Fuji xt2 and XF 18-55
  20. 1 point

    Fuji Birds

    Collared Araçari (Panama)
  21. 1 point

    Fuji Birds

    Collared aracari (Panama canal zone, pacific side)
  22. 1 point
    Hello Yee, Nice deal.
  23. 1 point


    From the album: Random/Anything

  24. 1 point
    Hi Syborg Thanks for the help and support with this issue. I have made progress. I checked your link for Microsoft Photos and as thought it told me that i already had that installed. I searched for Honeyview and downloaded it. I was able to view my images with Honeyview but still no Thumbnails were being generated in the file explorer pages ... just generic icons of Honeyview logo. I searched some more and found a relevant post on DP Review website where someone had same issue. The writer recommended to download Silkypix Raw converter to make sure all required Fuji Codecs were available on the machine. I did that..... and voila. After a restart the Honeyview icons began changing to proper Thumbnails and all populated quickly with 100% success. What a relief. Thanks so much for the help especially for recommendation of Honeyview. It has a nice sharp preview image and im able to run slideshow on it to quickly pan through a full set of images. I appreciate your time helping..... Thanks Kindest Regards.......... Steve
  25. 1 point
    Jose Carpin

    "Yangon Circular Railway"

    "Yangon Circular Railway" Yangon, Myanmar 2017 Fuji X-T2 + XF16mm f1.4 R WR + XF35mm f1.4 Instagram: jose_carpin_photographer Website: www.josecarpin.com 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
  26. 1 point
    Jürgen Heger

    The future of olds fujinon 10-24

    I do not expect the 10-24 I to stay in production. So you may get a clearance sales now but likely not in the future. However, I do not have any information first hand 😊.
  27. 1 point
    Olaf W.


    Welcome to our forum!
  28. 1 point
    Well...this is embarrassing, but maybe helpful for anyone else out there who runs into this - if you change your connection settings to "USB Fixed" you will get the symptoms above. Switch it to "USB Auto" and you should be fine. Basically, while troubleshooting for Webcam usage I switched it and didn't think about the ramifications of leaving it that way. Whoops!
  29. 1 point

    23mm f2 and 27mm f2.8

    I had both, but kept the 27mm only as my compact setup lens. On the other hand, 23mm is my preferred focal length, so I got the 23mm/1.4 for all the occasions when size is not crucial.
  30. 1 point

    Lens for indoor bird photography

    quincy is showing you why the studio folks earlier were suggesting to improve the lighting so that you can use more dof (higher f stop) to get more of the bird in focus without the image turning dark or needing to push the ISO. If you do go the lighting route, you have more options in lens choices -- though that 90mm is pretty good, a lot of portrait photographers like it. But one thought about that, try to get constantly on lighting instead of flashes. If you start strobing the units to get several good shots, the birds may panic, that sudden burst of intense light is startling.
  31. 1 point

    Lens for indoor bird photography

    You might be frustrated with hunting autofocus of 60mm macro while framing moving subjects though. It's good with stamps or coins, not sure about pigeons.
  32. 1 point
    Howdy ya'll, new member here. As we all know, the beloved x100 has turned a decade old. I purchased the x100 back in 2012 while I was living in East Asia. Many years were spend living on the road, backpacking with this incredible, simple, yet quirky setup. It is so easy to catch a bad case of GAS with all these new releases, and I have also expanded to other X cameras, but as I was looking back on my images of the x100, I was thinking how much we can create with 'obsolete' cameras. We can upgrade to more megapixels and that's great, but ultimately its stories and experiences that matters. I wrote more rambles of my beloved little Fuji-san along with more pictures: https://medium.com/@christofferjames/the-life-of-a-fujifilm-x100-original-d440794b657d Here's to another decade!
  33. 1 point


    If I am understanding right, you are trying to open the file to move it? All you have to do is copy it by dragging it to your sd card, no need to open it, the camera will do that.
  34. 1 point


    From the album: Random/Anything

  35. 1 point

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    X-E2 + 27f2
  36. 1 point


    From the album: Random/Anything

  37. 1 point

    Fuji Flowers

    X-T2 + 80mm macro lens
  38. 1 point

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    X-E2 + 27f2.8
  39. 1 point

    landscapes with fuji x

    Puerto Vallarta Sunset X100F
  40. 1 point

    the northern lights

    a classic volvo under the aurora in iceland. single shot exposure. the aurora was just a thin, wispy white cloud to the naked eye, but a 40 second exposure resulted in some color. 50r & 32-64mm
  41. 1 point

    Landscapes in b&W (open thread)

    Another landscape photo in b/w dreary day by #1923#, auf Flickr
  42. 1 point
    Fujifilm X100F In camera B&W ACROS Film Simulation
  43. 1 point

    Fuji Birds

    ... Schreihals ... by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    I made a small series​ inspired by Wakui Masashi and the way he process its photos. It's not my usual cup of tea as I prefer more natural and less processed look, but I find it working very well when depicting cityscapes at night, it helps to create a very unique atmosphere! Hope you guys like it! DSCF8422 by Giorgio Rivalta, on Flickr DSCF8387 by Giorgio Rivalta, on Flickr DSCF8531 by Giorgio Rivalta, on Flickr DSCF8590 by Giorgio Rivalta, on Flickr DSCF8746 by Giorgio Rivalta, on Flickr DSCF8914 by Giorgio Rivalta, on Flickr DSCF9002 by Giorgio Rivalta, on Flickr DSCF9052 by Giorgio Rivalta, on Flickr
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Some concert photos from me. Cameron Carpenter performed in Tallinn yesterday evening. Great performer! Cameron Carpenter @Nordea Concert Hall, Tallinn, Estonia by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr Cameron Carpenter @Nordea Concert Hall, Tallinn, Estonia by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr Cameron Carpenter @Nordea Concert Hall, Tallinn, Estonia by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr 3x X-T2 + 50-140 Cameron Carpenter @Nordea Concert Hall, Tallinn, Estonia by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr X-T2 + 23/1,4
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Fuji X-E2, 50-230mm @ 95.4; F/14 1/125 ISO 200
  50. 1 point
    X-T1 with the 16-55 f/2.8 @44mm. Window light. Colin by Kim Farrelly, on Flickr
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