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Great Blue Heron, X-H2s, 70-300+1.4TC. As a rule I don't like bird photos in B&W but this Oregon coast day was so gray and dreary very little color showed up so I went with B&W minimalism.

I don't understand the big deal about this - ISO can be assigned to the dpad - press up and ISO goes up - press down and ISO goes down - it shows in the EVF but it doesn't fill the EVF and disappears as soon as the change has been made.

There’s plenty of evidence here. X-H2S Real World Images As far as Ken’s evidence, the only time I had ever seen his images, were when he was being exposed by Jason Lanier.

He’s wrong about all of it and I seriously doubt he used the camera. I had the X-T3, sold it for the X-T4, and 2 years later I preordered the X-H2s. I have had it since launch and here’s a quick rebuttals to that garbage review. First, the people he spoke about, saying they backed up his claims… Casey from Camera Conspiracies, only tried the pre-release and has since taken one on loan… He loves the thing now. Gerald from Gerald Undone, said the camera’s DR is excellent, Still image capture AF is awesome, and he said thanks to the noise properties he can actually make the video better quality than the A1 (that’s impressive). DPReview, said they wouldn’t rank the camera or comment on most aspects until they got a full retail version of it and that review is happening now. Second, he ignored the stacked sensor and the improved AF speed completely. Then he made assumptions based on his ignorance of the camera and how it functions. He claimed they didn’t think the design through, but his own complaints show he didn’t think it through. I had the X-T4 sitting right beside the new body for about a week… The build quality was very much on par with the X-T4 and yet he praised one while panning the other. So which is it, is the build quality of the X-T4 cheap, or is the X-H2S actually decent build quality. Then of course he tried to equate knowing the X-T4 with knowing this camera and I can tell you they could not be further apart in the way they operate and still be a Fuji body. Many of us have action photos, portraits, BIF, and animal portraits, yet he seems to proclaim it is the worst camera ever. Of course he focused on 1 thing obsessively, that’s the fact that the dials don’t have any push button capabilities. Then he also made a comment that gave away his motivation for the whole review away… Fuji wouldn’t give him a body to review, so he rented or purchased one and panned the whole camera. Oh and as for Muddy images… I set both the X-H2S and the X-T4 to the same settings and swapped the lenses from body to body. The image quality was pretty much identical, so you can ignore that garbage claim too.

Well, I'm Martin, having emigrated from the UK 33 years ago. I live in the great state of Utah. I am just switching from Nikon gear to Fujifilm.

Thanks @cpX – from those threads I draw the conclusion that there is some aspect of OIS that you can't turn off. It's a shame that the link provided in the page that your fourth link leads to, for Fuji discussing this in a support article, is broken.

That will probably be the drive of the Powerzoom. https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4567793 https://www.fujix-forum.com/threads/fuji-xt4-body-16-80mm-lens-sound-problem.108054/ https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4558158 https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4501861

Brackwede ● NRW ● Germany.

Can I charge my xt30 with the usb cable and a simple 5v usb power adapter used in my mobile phone ?

UPDATE: I installed firmware version 2.0 that has just been released and the problem seems to have been fixed. I did a few test shots, and now focus hits dead on with both 16-55 and 56mm (with less agitated hunting on the latter). Very happy about this. Let's see if it holds up!

I don't either the dpad works just fine. Easy peasy.

Thanks Jerryyy! I never worked out how the AE-L and AF-L buttons worked ! I didn't realize they are only(?) active when selecting MF... I thought MF was (as with Nikon) a disconnect of the AF-motor between the body and the lens. Now I get it, wow, huge improvement !

Thanks Jerryy. Good to hear you've had no problems. The 150-600mm looks amazing. I'm now flipping a coin on whether to jump up to the x-t4 and get one less lens in the short term. Thinking the body might be a better long-term prospect. I appreciate your thoughts. Andrew

It seems to me that you’ve underexposed the material. Depending on the settings, the LCD in most cases does NOT show the actual result since it‘s supposed to help focussing etc. Watch the exposure meter on the LCD while shooting. This will give you the necessary information if your video or photo is exposed correctly.

shopping centre piazza eindhoven, netherlands fuji x100f, 1/100 sec, f/4, iso 2500

Yes, this is possible. You have to dedicate one button: BUTTON/DIAL SETTING > FUNCTION (Fn) SETTING > +/_ WHEN SET TO M (ON/OFF SWITCH) Hope this helps 🙂

XH1 with xf 18-55 SOOC Classic Chrome

I use a X-T30 with a 150-600mm lens on a every so often occasion without any troubles, but I do make sure to hold / carry it by the lens bracket foot rather than the camera body. So you should be okay either way you chose. IQ-wise, they are similar, so if it is possible, try to get these side by side so you can hold them and make sure they fit your hands and the dials are easy to reach. The one that 'wins' there will be the one to get -- the idea is the camera you want to use is the best one to take with you. Keep in mind the X-T30ii can also have an L-bracket, etc. put on it if you need to use that for more balance. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Unfortunately, when using the AUTO modes, the maximum ISO you can set for your camera is 6400. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/xf10/menu_shooting/shooting_memu1/index.html Scroll down to the AUTO sections. You can get the higher ISO values by manually setting them.

Thanks for that. I shoot in Raw/F and mainly dark and moody street photography. Will use the manual ISO front ring to shoot at night. Will give 6400 a go and have a look at the results

Dear all, with the new generation 40 MP sensors I see a few problems coming for myself and I wonder whether anybody shares my concerns or has some feedback on where the XF journey will be going. Note that I'm a regular "consumer", not photographing for career, Instagram or bread on my table. 40 MP means large raw files and more detail than I effeively need. To me, 26 MP was the perfect compromise, matching the apsc format. It also seems that lenses to utilize the higher resolution are getting heftier and I always liked the overall small format: I'm shooting XE4 with the old 18/f2 and 35/f1.4. - Will 26 MP sensors survive for the other, photo centric, camera systems? - If not, may there be a possibility with xtrans to do resolution reduction for raw files via binning? - Will Fuji go fully towards modern, and larger, high Res lenses and abandon their approach for small "character lenses" (eg XF 35/f1.4)? - Does anybody else feel ambivalent about the MP increase? And don't tell me that storage is getting ever cheaper. That's another problem creating solution for a self inflicted and, in my case, in the first place unnecessary problem (i.e. stupid). For complaint on too much sharpnes/resolution, see also this thread: Many thanks! A

I think you are using the HDR setting for your JPEG output, especially since this diminishes at lower ISO values. HDR usage requires a higher ISO value to be set (640). The camera exposes at a lower value (160) to protect highlights, and the camera’s JPEG process then boosts the lower mid tones and shadows to the “higher” ISO value set (640). Thus you end up with a JPEG with good highlights and shadows. (In this example an HDR 400 setting is modeled). The RAW file would not be affected by the JPEG process, so it would display in a RAW program as the ISO 160 image (i.e. underexposed by two stops). Still useful as your highlights are protected and you can recover the shadows and mid tones as you like in your RAW processing program. I haven’t used the HDR setting in a long time so I can’t recall if the JPEG preview included with the RAW includes the “boost” or not (suspect it does). Hope that helps, Dave

I'll definitely have a look at that! Thank you for your help! Still if anyone have an recipe thy already use for the same/similar porpoise I'd love to hear it

Many thanks for comments and suggestions. I'll look into an alternative raw converter. I would like to get this little perplexment sorted out. Again, many thinks. TC

For stills the EVF alone is a big step. For video...this is something else...

You should be okay at f13, It could be the lens sample, if it is possible, rent or borrow a similar brand of 35mm lens, put the camera on a tripod, with a remote release connected to rhe camera, and shoot a same scene using both lenses at the same settings, as well as trying an entirely different lens to use as a means to eliminate the brand as having sample issues. Sometimes lenses are soft, sometimes the sensor in the camera is a slight bit tilted which throws things off, sometimes weird stuff happens. You should be mostly be okay until around f16 - f22 before noticing artifacts in pixel peeping, depending on the lens. Of course if you are photographing window screens or things like that, you can get issues at f1.2.

interesting topic. I shoot with the XT1, XT2, XH1, 50r and 100s and honestly I don't compare color profiles to each one. I think they all look amazing --- but I will throw out there that my XT1 images, with only 16MP, produces some gorgeous images still to this day with over 135,000 shutter clicks.

B&W of driftwood on Yachats, Oregon beach. X-T1, 10-24.

The Angry Photographer sounds deranged. I've never followed his reviews, and I'll make no effort to seek him out. https://taipeigeek.blogspot.com/2018/08/downfalls-of-the-angry-photographer-epic-fail.html

I have since purchased the compatible SD cards and everything is working just fine.

Completely agree with you. He's upset from not getting the recognition from a brand he likes. Ken the influencer who influences nobody !

Hi everyone, like you all, I've been on a photographic journey for a few years and like a lot of you, I've moved over from using Nikons to Fujifilm. I bought a Fujifilm XH1 about 2 years ago and I love it. I love the various film simulations. I paired my camera with various lenses like the wonderful Mitakon 35mm f/0.95. It usually comes along whenever I go out. Its low light and bokeh capabilities are really quite something. If that lens broke, I'd get another one without a second thought. I also got the Helios-44 58mm f/2.0 to capture more moody and/or bokehlicious images. I just got the newest 23mm f/1.4 only to replace my 16mm f/1.4 because I felt that the FOV of the 16mm was just too big for me. I'm also not a fan of the clutch. Lastly, I also have the 80mm macro lens as well as the 100-400mm. I probably won't be upgrading to the X-H2R or the X-T5 any time soon because I don't need many of the new features that those cameras provide. Here is a link to some of my photos if you care to check them out. https://www.flickr.com/photos/danslevent/ Here are some of my top favorites : https://flic.kr/p/2kkQ4NY https://flic.kr/p/2neVBow https://flic.kr/p/2m5G36T https://flic.kr/p/2m2vJHj https://flic.kr/p/2nnbhSs I hope you like my work, Cheers

My last vacation I had my X-T4, 16mmF2.8 , 35mmF2 and 56mmF1.4 The 35mm was on my X-T4 80% of the time.

No idea. To do this, you would have to reveal more information about what equipment you have, which perspectives you want to photograph, what distance you have to keep, etc. This will be a guessing game without information on your part...

I would ask Fujifilm if there is no need for a screw lock like Loctite on the screws.

Thanks for the feedback surprisingly I do not seem to have any focussing issues at all but I'll have a look at the mounting plate to see if the movement is there, as I said earlier the 'wobble' is so minute we are talking about the thickness of a piece of masking tape

I shoot with this lens for thousands of shots of my grandsons sporting events. I am using an X-T2 and have had the combo for probably 4-5 years, I have no play between the camera and lens. I use a mono-pod for nearly all shots, and Idonotice some rotational movement between the two, there is no horizontal movement of play between the lens and camera. If you are not having the issue with other lens', then the lens mount plate out be loose. As mentioned before, you need to get this looked at in order to get in-focus results.

That must not wobble at all! A few hundredths of a millimeter are enough for the lens to image very poorly.

Hello my name is Alexander i lives in Russia (now terrible times here). I have used fujifilm last 4 years and it is the same time in my photography life. I love to shoot portraits and fashion. Have used x-e1 x-t10 x-t2 x-h1 also take in rentals t3 and gfx system. I skilled to shoot with any lenses type and alot of technical equipment Now my main camera is x-h1 it is enought for professional work https://www.instagram.com/aleksandr_m.f/ https://alexandermf.myportfolio.com/

He’s not controversial, he’s an insecure man child. On top of that, he’s really not a good photographer at all. As for the IQ, he called one camera muddy and the others perfectly fine… Then he says the IQ is the same.

owning every piece of gear doesn't make one an expert and it certainly doesn't make them a professional photographer. it just makes them a gear hoarder i expect a flagship CAMERA to perform where it matters: image quality (video or stills), autofocus and whatever else it promises to bring to the table, in this case speed (fps, video or whatever). and in those aspects it surely delivers, judging from what RESULTS i've seen from actual photographers (sorry, but i can't take the guy seriously when all he does for 22 minutes is sit on his chair and fondle the camera saying how s*it it is). the MCS switch point has been made clear above. when apple first removed the charging brick from the box everyone cried out and laughed. how long did it take for others to follow? 6 months at most for samsung and then all the others

Ken owns every Fujifilm camera and most of the lenses including the Medium format line, if you wish to consider # of cameras owned as a guidepost to expertise. You have a different view than Ken on the camera and I'm glad your happy with it. Regards, GO

Black-headed Grosbeak 1st winter. H-H1, 70-300+1.4TC.

You are shooting compressed raw - Apple doesn't support compressed raw. You will either have to switch to uncompressed or put up with the grey squares. There are, however, plenty of programs (such as Lightroom) that will be able to open those compressed raw files on the Mac its just anything native Apple (such as finder and preview that won't recognize them). FastRawViewer on the Mac is a good choice if you want to quickly view your raw files (and it supports both compressed and uncompressed raw).