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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/25/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. 3 points
  3. 3 points
    M Wales


    I recently got into astrophotography and really enjoy seeing things for the first time with my eye's/camera. The Andromeda Galaxy. A mere 2.5 million light years from earth. This was taken from my backyard this past week using my X-Pro3 and Astro-Tech AT65EDQ Quadruplet telescope on a Sky-Watcher EQM-35 Equatorial mount. This is 33 galaxy images, 20 dark frames, 15 flat frames and 15 bias frames all stacked using Deep Sky Stacker. Settings were: 30 sec. exp. @ iso 1600 for all 33 images.
  4. 2 points

    Trains (open thread)

    somewhere in North Dakota...
  5. 2 points
    Depends of course on what you are shooting. I have both and they are fine lenses. I find that I use the 18-135 far more than the 55-200. The 18-135 is a great all round lens producing some surprisingly good images. Also nice and light to carry, well balanced on XT4.
  6. 2 points

    black and white (open thread)

    Fujifilm X-T3 - XF 35mm 1:2 R WR - 52mm equivalent ISO 200, 1/250, f/2 Fujifilm ACROS B&W Film Simulation Modu on Jungle Beach in the Gambia
  7. 2 points

    black and white (open thread)

    Fujifilm X100F - 35mm equivalent ISO 1600, 1/250 sec, f/2.2 Still Closed During the Pandemic
  8. 2 points

    Landscapes in b&W (open thread)

    Fujifilm X100 - 35mm equivalent, ISO 200, 1/170 sec, f/5.6 2019 Cerny Barn Pano
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points

    Landscapes in b&W (open thread)

    Cappadocia in b&w by #1923#, auf Flickr
  13. 2 points
    Olaf W.

    X-PRO3 framing guideline in OVF

    Switch between the display modes while looking through the viewfinder, your setting should appear.
  14. 2 points

    Here Kitty Kitty

  15. 2 points

    XT4 Q button

    PROBLEM SOLVED RE Q button I noticed a small yellow padlock displayed on LCD which is active when "controls have been locked" To use this lock feature press and hold the Menu/OK button to activate and/or deactivate. I switched it off and the Q button now works !!!!!!! How it was switched on is a mystery to me but at least Q is now working.
  16. 1 point
    Hi to all Fuji lovers, I’d like to share a shortfilm https://vimeo.com/456176145 I recently released and has some complementary shots on Fuji xt3, most of the footage is from DNG files Magic Lantern on 5d MK3 from 2013. Hope you guys like it and feedback welcome!!!!
  17. 1 point

    Neighbour .jpg

    very meaningful face expression, good combination of daylight and artificial light. (the only thing ... it is a pity that you can read such a lot. It deflects) all in all: a very good shot! (you can't rebuild the kitchen just fot one photograph)
  18. 1 point
    Nearly the same problem as here Start to configure Wifi access from scratch.
  19. 1 point


    X-E2 + 27f2.8
  20. 1 point
    The only way -to my knowledge- to prevent the camera to go to My Menu every time you enter the menu button, is to leave the My Menu completely empty. The purpose of My Menu is to have quick access to the most used menu items, hence it always starts there. Should you decide not to use the My Menu, you can always add 4 most used feature to the Q-menu and activate them with the Q-button and the touch interface of that menu. From what you describe the 18-55 can do a couple of things in the background. When PRE-AF is ON, the camera will always focus. It could be that it still does when in replay mode (I haven't checked it as I don't have that lens). Another (more likely) noise could be that of the OIS. On the 18-55 there's a switch for that. Try it in OFF mode and see whether the noise persists. The focus peaking for manual focus indeed needs an upgrade. I also have experience with an A7RIV and an SL2 and they have better focus peaking esp. during magnification. Esp. the A7RIV with the Loxia lenses works brilliant. The issue with Fuji is that indeed when magnifying the peaking gives a very flickery image. So either quiet it down of switch FP off when magnification is activated. Another issue is that for some Fuji cameras (e.g. my beloved X-Pro2) the focus peaking color yellow is not available for some inexplicable reason. Yellow is for most shooting situations the most visible color (at least in my experience). Another issue is that for many menu settings there's no help function or explanation in the menu. After many years of Fuji I know most settings by heart, but it took me a while. It would be easy to have a line of text explaining the menu setting at hand. Most other cameras have such a feature. Fuji only does this for certain settings like film simulations, but consistent use would improve the usability. Finally, some menu options are named differently on the various Fuji cameras. On the X-Pro2 there's the option "preview pic. effect" which is called "natural live view" on the X-H1. Those things can be easily aligned, even though there could be a small tech. difference between the two options. Other than that I think the Fuji menus are quite good and at least a lot clearer than the older Sony menus (not the A7SIII) but not as good as the Leica and Canon menus. It sits nicely in between 😉
  21. 1 point

    X-T30 front command dial only decreases

    You should try and assign other features to the front dial command and see if it acts similarly. I've had this issue with an X-Pro2 (though with the back command dial) and it turned out to be a moist-issue. It started after a walk in some mild rain on Iceland and only after the camera was serviced it disappeared... Could it be the same issue for you?
  22. 1 point
    The 'Fuji-colors' are mostly a product of the JPEG-engine in the cameras. While there is a slight difference between the 16MP and the 24MP, most differences are due to the JPEG engine and between lenses. Some of the older lenses (the fast 23, 35 and 56) have a 'special' film-like quality. It has mostly to do with how they render color and contrast. Using these lenses on the newer cameras, results in the same effect. Fuji-purists sometimes praise the older 16MP sensor for its character, but to my eye the 24MP sensor is just as good and has the resolution to do additional cropping. I've owned 6 Fuji cameras over the past 9 years (and still own 2) and the newer cams are just as good as the older ones (if not better). I've had the XP1 but upgrading to the XP2 didn't affect the colors in RAW. In fact, the JPEG-engine in the newer cams (like the XP2 and the XE3) can also control the film grain and has a few more film simulations that can be an advantage. Esp. Classic Chrome can be made to look similar to the 'Leica-look' (I've used a/o the M8 and the M262). To learn more check out fujiweekly.com and the film recipes outlined there. Also check-out the RAW and JPEG manuals of Thomas Fitzgerald. He gives very good advise on how to set sharpening and noise reduction. Fuji's JPEG engines are too aggressive to my liking, so I dial down NR to -2 or -3 on the 24MP-cameras and Sharpening to -1 or -2. I use Capture One as imo it works way better with RAF-files than LR. PS. with the new XP3 out, second-hand prices for the XP2 dropped. While not as low-priced as a used XE3, an XP2 is now great value-for-money.
  23. 1 point
    On the long end, the p1000 is a 3000 mm FF equivalent. Longest native lens is the 100-400 mm. Couple it with the TC 2x you get 800mm, so 1200 mm FF equivalent. You'd get much higher quality than the pxx00 with that combination but far from the focal length. You will never get such a versatile zoom range in one (or even 2) lense(s) on the Fuji system.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Same settings as fuji29832. After using my X-T3 as a webcam for > 1hour, I had the same symptom : "Fujifilm X Webcam" white on black logo. Changing the USB_C cable did not solve the problem. As it seemed to me that the X-T3 was a bit hot, I switched it off to cool it down. I tried again to use it as a Webcam approximately 2 hours later and... everything was working fine again !
  29. 1 point

    XF 18-135mm lens vs XF 55-200mm lens

    I agree with Lrover. The 18-135 is my go-to lens for travel and just everyday shooting. Also, being WR, it is good out doors in all kinds of weather. The wide range of focal lengths makes it very handy. Take a look at the YouTube video by Andrew and Denae as Andrew goes over all the fuji lens and why he likes each one and for what.
  30. 1 point

    Cityscapes with Fujifilm X

  31. 1 point

    Landscapes in b&W (open thread)

  32. 1 point
    The FujiFilm specifications give you a rough estimate: https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/cameras/x-t3/specifications/ The calculation is: Take the bit rate , multiply by number of seconds , divide by 8. For 100Mbps that would equate to 750MB/minute (i.e. 100 *60 / 8). Double for 200Mbps and quadruple for 400Mbps. So for 4K at 400Mbps you will be using roughly 3GB per minute. The camera doesn't always use exactly the specified bit rate but this gives you an approximation.
  33. 1 point

    black and white (open thread)

    xt2 and xf 18-55 From my own, one-a-day , photo challenge....can you guess it?
  34. 1 point

    Highlight warning in Still mode

    What's wrong with the histogram? It lets you preserve highlights without being distracted by flashing view. Might be just a matter of habit.
  35. 1 point

    Traveling Setup with X-T30 and ???

    Another vote for wide lenses. Most cities in Europe are pretty tight, so unless you're expecting to shoot wildlife or have a lot of time for scouting/shooting landscapes, I can't see a long lens being overly useful. Depending on the type of shooting you're planning on doing, I'd almost be worried about 18mm not being wide enough, if anything. For casual photos it would be fine, but if you're looking to do any architecture or cityscape type stuff, you may run out of room. I'd say just bring the 18-55mm and 12mm. If it were me, and if I was working with your setup, I'd get the 23mm f/2 and bring that and the 12mm, and that's it. But it seems like you prefer zooms, and you've already got the 18-55.
  36. 1 point
    If the message coming up every time doesn't grind you down, you can still use the older battery but it will wear down faster, certainly under intensive use. I've not measured the number of shots from each when just taking single shots.
  37. 1 point
    Thanks @MacimusPrime I believe I've figured out the solution thanks to your post. FUJIFILM X Webcam does in fact work with macOS Catalina! I noticed when I updated zoom and started using it I got a popup that said "“Zoom” would like to access files on a removable volume." After I granted access it started working. Google Meets however still did not work. To fix that, I had to manually grant Google Chrome access to Removable Volumes. This will be true of any software you want to work with FUJIFILM X Webcam. Choose Apple menu > System Preferences > Security & Privacy > Privacy > Files and Folders > Ensure Removable Volumes is checked for Google Chrome, zoom.us, any other browser or software you want to work.
  38. 1 point

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    X-E2 + 27f2
  39. 1 point

    XPRO1 sometimes slow and laggy

    Yes , energy saving mode turned off and also quick start turned on. Hoping that our issue will be resolved
  40. 1 point

    X-Pro 2 or X-Pro 3

    The size of the photocells in the 24Mp sensor is approx. 8% larger than in the 26Mp. The gain differs about 20% so there is certainly an advantage for the 26Mp sensor. However, with higher gain there's also slightly higher noise. To correct that, the NR profile of the 26Mp is slightly different. The end result is barely visible in real live low light RAWs (in Capture One). That coincides with the Sony specs for the sensors. Both 24Mp and 26Mp sensor are from Sony and the 26Mp in Fuji is the same sensor as the 61Mp in the A7RIV and in the GFX100. Only cut to a different size.
  41. 1 point

    X-Pro 2 or X-Pro 3

    There's a lot of misconception re. the sensor generations Fuji uses. In essence there's no visible image quality difference between the 24Mp X-TransIII/Processor and the 26Mp X-TransIV/Processor. The 2Mp are negligible. There's virtually no visible difference in low-light performance as well. The BSI (back-side illuminated) technology of the 26Mp sensor has a theoretical advantage here because the metal wiring layer is not on top of the photocells, but beneath them. However, the photocells of the 24Mp are larger and therefor the yield of the 26Mp BSI-sensor is lower than the 24Mp FSI sensor (front-side illuminated). That glitches out almost all advantages here. What does make a difference is the number of AF pixels on the 26Mp sensor (much higher) and the shorter circuits due to the BSI technology of the 26Mp sensor. That allows for greater throughput capacity and quicker AF. Top that with a more powerful processor in the 26Mp camera's and you have snappier AF and higher video bit rates (up to 400 Mbps). The main differences between the x-pro2 (I'm a long-time owner) and the x-pro3 (tried it extensively) are the LCD screen and the viewfinder. The hidden LCD screen could be very beneficial to a street shooter (from the hip). However, imo it sucks to have to open it for menu access and menu access through the EVF is cumbersome when you wear glasses (and have thumbprints all over them). I prefer a screen like the X100V were the user has options to choose how to use it and which is nicely integrated in the body. The sub monitor is imo a useless gadget as there's not backlighting button like on the X-H1/GFX50S. The viewfinder for me is the real dealbreaker on the X-Pro3. Though it is larger and brighter, in OVF mode (which is why I bought the X-Pro) there's only one magnification left (x0.50) rather than the 2 magnification levels of the X-Pro2. That renders the X-Pro3 in OVF mode useless for lenses shorter than 23mm and longer than 35mm. I can't use my 16/18mm and my beloved 50mm anymore on the X-Pro3 in OVF unless I settle with a very tiny frame or frame lines outside my OVF. For now I'm sticking to the X-Pro2.
  42. 1 point
    Bottom line learn what it is you are working with - that is an Xtrans sensor vs a Bayer sensor. Fuji files are created with an Xtrans sensor which is quite sharper than a file created with a Bayer sensor. Therefore default settings in Lightroom tend to over-sharpen when translating from the RAW format; thus creating worms. This can be proven by simply over-sharpening any image - you will get the same effect. I use a preset while importing to my Lightroom Catalog that sets all sharpening to 0, then as Capture One does, I increase the Noise Reduction to 50. This provides an imported image to work with no different than if it came from a Bayer sensor or if I was in Capture One. Lately the "Go To" solution has been to use Capture One, but if you look at the default import settings it simply decreases sharpening and adds Noise Reduction to remove the worms. Truth is both Lightroom and Capture One are both great software solutions, they simply handle Bayer & Xtrans sensors files a bit differently so you need to adjust accordingly.
  43. 1 point

    Cityscapes with Fujifilm X

    X-E2 + 27f2.8
  44. 1 point
    x-t30 + 35 f2
  45. 1 point
    Jose Carpin

    "Uncertain future"

    "Uncertain future" Siem Reap, Cambodia 2017 Fuji X-T2 + XF16mm f1.4 R WR Instagram: jose_carpin_photographer Website: www.josecarpin.com
  46. 1 point

    Cityscapes with Fujifilm X

    From the Leh Palace, India.
  47. 1 point

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    4 damen auf der bank by Rolf Marx, auf Flickr
  48. 1 point

    Cityscapes with Fujifilm X

    Here's a little snippet of cityscape with Fuji-X, from this past sunny weekend in Times Square, NY, USA. Wide grand shots of the colors, and this microcosm, a classic New York Deli, in glorious Acros-sim black and white. This hand-held exposure (XT-2) was, by the way, using the much-berated 18-135mm (and WR!) Fuji lens. Sad note, incidentally (don't shoot the messenger) but Fuji has announced this lovely film (on a roll) will be allowed to die this October (2018). The news: https://petapixel.com/2018/03/30/fujifilm-acros-100-film-to-be-killed-off-in-october-2018-report-says/
  49. 1 point
    and how long does it take to go through all the pics and make a choice among many hundreds of almost exactly the same pics?
  50. 1 point
    3,000 shots each session with a 70,000 theoretical releases ( don’t test the camera too much!) it comes down to about 23 sessions . Of course why would anyone shoot 3000 pics per session is a good question to be asked.
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