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until next season.

(Re: my post from 17.9.18 above) I did eventually get mine repaired. It was a focus motor failure. Very quick service from Fuji UK - it set me back £80. No problems since.

Happy New Year's day from the Zoo

I just don't get the negative comments on this video over on the Fuji Rumors page. I am mesmerized by the fact that Fujifilm sees photo gear for what it is - tools for those who have passion for photography; and has such high respect for photographers. The gear they produce is icing on the cake. It was fascinating for me to see the creative process, inputs and constraints that shape these marvelous products.

Fujifilm X Photographer Mindi Tan created a 90 minuted documentary, giving us a behind the scenes to the secret process behind the Fujfilm X-Pro3 creation. It gives us a very close and also intimate look at Fujifilm’s camera creators and… The post Documentary: How Fujifilm Creates Our Cameras – X-Pro3 Not a Product of Logic and About Managers Who Don’t Like Digital Cameras ;) appeared first on Fuji Rumors. Full Article on Fuji Rumors

Yeah George, it is that time. weeelllll ...

Very much liking this lens. The IQ is as good as the 18-35, and the extra reach at both ends, especially long, is most welcome.

Fujifilm X-T3 Fujinon XF 35mm 1:2 R WR ISO 5000, 1/125 sec, F/2.8 Classic Film Simulation Processed in Capture One 20 Murphysboro, Illinois USA

X-T2, 16-80mm f/4

Awesome! These are even better than the really neat ones you showed us last year.

Oh I'm absolutely not trolling! 😇 😅 But thanks for the tour guide idea. Haven't thought about that! I will check that out

Hi there, I’m newly registered to this side, but not new to the side. Still haven’t made my newbie-post. But first I wanted to get an idea from my chest. I’m from Würzburg, Germany. Frankonia to be exact. I’m shooting with Fuji for around 2 years and I’m looking for a personal project to shoot. But here comes my little problem. I love nature and landscape photography and Würzburg is soooooooooo boring If your not from here: Würzburg is a city with 130k citizens. We have lots of small towns around it and very much agriculture. The woodland is…. well, it’s not woodland, it’s more like commercial forest. The sea is around 600km away. So what to shoot? I think I have some good pictures made here and I still have some ideas for photos in my mind. But I want a longterm project. But with what topic? Würzburg is still boring. So I thought: Why not documenting the „boringness“ of Würzburg and especially the rural small villages around it? But how do I photograph boringness? Pictures of farms? Fields? Lonely streets? Dirt? :D I don’t know yet. But why am I this here? Even that I don’t know exactly. I think I just want another opinion from other photographers. I’m not a gear-guy. I’m more looking for ideas and inspiration. Do you have any suggestions? Maybe other photographers who did something similar? Books? I’m open to suggestions! Regards Andy

Fujinon XF23mm f/1,4 and 50mm f/2 Almost 100% of all needs, Use for wedding and portrait photography

I picked up a copy after deliberating...I've only taken shots in my living room so far...but i'm quite happy with the results!

There are two reasons that minimum ISO is limited to 640 - using DR 400 and using F-LOG for movie

The 35 f/2 should be reasonably quiet. All Fujifilm lenses faster than f/2, and that includes your 23mm and 56mm, have to move a lot of glass to change focus. That requires powerful AF motors which are slow and noisy. The quietest lenses are those with linear motors, which you can easily recognize by the LM in their official designation. At the moment, most of those are zooms. The XF90mmF2 R LM WR is the only LM prime I know of, although it does require four linear motors to shove its focusing glass around.

I have both cameras and regard them as interchangeable for most things. For street I prefer the X-Pro 3. I always hankered after a Leica M-D, but baulked because of a lack of screen. The hidden screen gives me just what I wanted in a street camera, a screen I can look at if and when I feel like it, but not all of the time. With the F2 lenses in particular one has a very discreet and highly capable camera.

Film simulation is just one piece of a Custom Setting. When you select a Custom Setting, you are loading the entire Custom Setting into the camera. All of the many parts of that Custom Setting --- film simulation, white balance, highlight tones, shadow tones, color saturation, noise reduction, sharpening, DR, etc. -- will replace whatever your camera had been set to. When you change the film simulation, that changes just the film simulation, without changing anything else. You just need to set up a "standard" Custom Setting. It's probably most convenient to put that in C1.

There is a difference between Film Simulation and Custom Profile - changing the Film Simulation doesn't automatically change the Custom Profile. If you want the different settings for different Film Simulations then set up different Custom Profiles.

As others have suggested ImageCapture will import your images for you, even when connected by cable to your camera. But it can do more, creating the folders by date, etc. as you wish. It just has to be configured the right way by configuring the app it itself uses, called AutoImporter. This link goes through the process for you (that feature has been available since Snow leopard -- and still is there in Catalina). https://www.macworld.com/article/1145584/autoimport.html For the shorter version: go to System/Library/Image Capture/Support/Application/ and run the AutoImporter.app, then set the preferences to make the named folders and subfolders as you wish.

I found the solution: set ISO on A, ISO dial setting (A): command (not auto)

Thanks DavidOC for your help. I had Nikon and Sony software,( when I had those cameras), that would import the photos to a folder, along with the date. I was looking for something like that. Now, I have to create a new folder, with a name or date, and import the photos to that folder. I thought there was software that would at least generate a folder by date and import to that. There is just additional steps that I have to manually input to have that happen.

Just a moment and eye to eye second

I had the same problem initially. I solved it by using a piece of cotton thread looped through the attachment cord. I fed it through the eyelet then pulled the cord through.

"FUJI X-T3 ‘WORMS’ I presume that if you are reading this article then you will be familiar with the Fuji ‘Worms’ effect." There is no Fuji Worms effect. There is an Adobe Worms effect. "Adobe Lightroom struggles to sharpen Fuji X Trans RAW files without introducing some wormy artefacts." No. Adobe's demosaicing of Fuji X-Trans raw files fails to appropriately render fine detail and that is the foundation of Adobe's Worms effect. "Adobe has not addressed this issue and it looks likely that they may never do so. Sadly the issue persists in the latest release (Version 😎 of the software" Indeed it does. "The simplest solution to avoid the worms is to disable sharpening completely in Lightroom and sharpen either when exporting the file e.g. sharpen for web sharing or sharpen in Adobe Photoshop using unsharp mask filter." No. The simplest solution to avoid the worms is to avoid Adobe software.

Here is a reworked version!

Hey guys, So I finally had the time to continue my space adventure. I got really better in mastering both the software and the hardware! And yet, so much to learn... Here is the picture from my 1st post, reworked with better settings. The X-Trans sensor is kind of new for stacking softwares, and without the proper settings, it introduces some kind of ugly canvas in the picture. I was able to correct it though, by tweaking some options in Deep Sky Stacker. Looks cleaner, but still a bit blurry/foggy! A few days later, I had another attempt. The conditions were much better: - no Moon (it was just after the eclipse!) - Andromeda was higher in the sky: the higher, the better, because light has to travel through less atmosphere. And the atmosphere is full of light pollution, particules, clouds, humidity... - The polar alignment was much more precise than the first time, so managed to do longer poses (1 min vs 30 seconds) Here is one RAW image, SOOC: After stacking in DSS and correcting in Lightroom, I managed to get this: I didn't like the colors, so I converted everything to B&W. Then, I made a color version, just for fun! I got inspired by some Apple wallpaper that I used on my computer, a few years ago. Things I need to improve: - Reduce the noise - Shoot from a less light-polluted area (but I only have a bike, so I'm limited!) - Improve the tracking to make longer exposures (aiming at 2 min) - Improve the post-production Cheers! Konzy

Leica Vario-Elmarit R 28-90mm f2.8-f4.5 -Jpegs straight out of camera with no post processing.

Leica R 100mm f2.8 APO-Macro Elmarit -Jpegs straight out of camera with no post processing. Image #1 @ f2.8 Image #2 @ f5.6 More to follow with other R lenses.....

Leica R 280mm f4 APO-Telyt @ f4 -Jpegs straight out of camera with no post processing. As mentioned above, a cold afternoon with very flat grey light and the only victims I could find to photograph were my cats and my 3 friends from East Africa.

It's a really good lens, great considering the price and size. I shot this Westminster Dog Show story for New York magazine using only it.