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Hello Jerry Thanks for your post and the welcome. You've hit the nail on the head, the switch was indeed sticking and now it's not - problem solved. I use one or two other forums and I wish they were all as good as this one. Thank you for all the contributions, very much appreciated. Best wishes All R

Welcome. You have to activate „shoot without lens“ in the setup menu of the camera.

Hiking the Heceta Head Trail to the lighthouse on a foggy Oregon Coast morning. X-P1, 16mm F2.8.

I just returned from Yellowstone National Park with my 70-300 and a rented 1.4 TC. The combo was fantastic in many ways. Light, maneuverable, fast focusing in moderate to better light, fantastic IQ. Here's a link to my Flickr account with that combo used in the wildlife shots and a few others. I went this route because I read time after time other shooters were happy with it over the 100-400. https://www.flickr.com/photos/197762654@N07/?fbclid=IwAR23rQGxxiUP26smxLdr1q4KSRQik_MTmWvgI6S_vj9i5eCjWfzB0lldWGg

Morris certainly shows how well the Fringer adapter works with Nikon lenses (especially for bird photography). I regularly use the Canon version with the Canon EF 200/2.8 lens as there is nothing similar in the Fujifilm range - it also works well.

Fujifilm X-H2, 16-80 WR 1/250 @ f/6.4, ISO 800 Fuji film simulation: Classic Neg. Handheld SOOC except for a slight crop I'm new here, and new to Fuji (have been mostly Nikon for a long time), and don't typically use SOOC images.

I guess now humans are no longer need to answer questions. Just use AI and advertise as shown in this thread.

ExifTool can do what you are asking for. https://exiftool.org It is very powerful, so be careful. You might also look for EXIF editors in your favorite app store, many of these let you batch modify information, but prices vary as the saying goes.

I am extremely grateful for your help and suggestions. Last night I tried two more times. On the first try, I substituted a second UHS-1 card, went through the steps - NO LUCK. On the second try, I substituted a brand-new UHS-II card (Sony TOUGH-G series SDXC UHS-II Card 128GB) AND IT WORKED!!!!! So, now, my X-T5 is fully updated to the latest firmware. Thanks so much!

Thanks a lot, Olaf. Now it’s work right

On that lens, there are a couple of switches, one turns OIS on or off. The other switch has two markings, one is A and the other marking looks sort of like a shutter. Sometimes, this switch sticks, so make sure it is definitely moved to the shutter icon side (Move it back and forth a few times to make sure it moves freely.). Once it is in place, you should be able to change the aperture by turning the ring and have the changes listed in the evf or lcd. If the switch is on the A side, the camera controls the aperture and you will not be able to change the setting. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Taken with the XT30. A shot of the tramway at the top of the cliffs as Saltburn on the Sea in North Yorkshire, Wngland

I love using the Acros sim to guide my RAW editing. After using 20-22 MP Canon RAW's for years, it's interesting/fun to have all the latitude in these 40MP Fuji files. Yellowstone National Park by the way.

Hi all, First post here. A few pics from a recent trip to Cornwall in the UK. Any feedback or ideas on how these could have been improved (in camera and editing) would be amazing.

icI'm KC. Im a food/bev/hospitality and lifestyle photographer based out of Philadelphia. You could say I am also a bit of a fanatic as well. I shoot exclusively on Fujifilm cameras. And after shooting Canon for several years prior, I wouldn't have it any other way. I started with an X100F in 2020 when pandemic killed my first attempt and going solo and I had to unload a lot of gear. I fell in love with it, and it became my event camera. I later grabbed an XT2, 35mm f/1.4, 18-55mm, and a 16mm f/1.4. This year I changed everything and bought a GFX50r, 50mm f/3.5 and 32-64mm f/4 and started shooting off camera flash. It was a game changer. Lastly for fun I grabbed up an XF10 camera and it pretty much goes everywhere with me. I also have a Natura S point and shoot for film fun too.

Part of what you are seeing is due to macOS’ ever increasing suspicion of USB connected devices. The operating system is being set to make it more difficult to connect things and have them accidentally take over your computer. Once it decides the camera is okay, it will gradually let Acquire and the camera chat with each other. The world we live in.

One way to feel better about Fuji's menus is to use an Olympus for a while.

Welcome. A wonderful camera is the X-T30 and priced right as well. Made the same move a while back and only negative was getting used to Fujifilm's camera menu. Top notch camera that does everything well. Hope your happy with it.

It depends on the lens and its connectors.

The only real concern with the X-T3 is how much “used” it is, unless you have managed to locate a new one (these are in short supply these days). You have @Greybeard speaking up for the X-S line, so I will speak up for the X-T line. 😇 They are fun! You have all those easy to use dials (no need to mess around with that SPAM dial and menus stuff). The best camera is the one you take with you and use. If you can, try these in your local shop or rent them for a few days and see which one suits you. Processing software for stills and video is easy to find, so test the hardware.

You probably have AF+MF set to on which overrides Focus Priority https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/menu_shooting/af_mf_setting/#af-mf

Thank you. Will do.

I also use the Canon version with a Tamron 150-600 f6.3, it is nice and smooth.

Thanks! Great shots!

Yes, yes you can, either through turning it off in the MF Assist set-up menu or by repeatedly long pressing the rear command dial to cycle through the MF assist options — the “off” option will either be called off or standard depending on which camera body you have.

Ah - I misunderstood - hopefully its a problem with the card and not the camera - have you tried a different card?

I have the XT-5 and I can assure you the menu system has a MF Assist with an option to turn it off. When you go to the Menu, are you first going to the AF/MF category and scrolling down to the second page, you will see MF Assist. Go into that and one of the options is OFF. This is the same menu where you change the color for Focus Peaking. You seem determined to not see this and complain about Fuji. The functionality hasn't changed just the default setting. With this tiny bit of customization, you can control it yourself rather than it automatically shutting off. I think this is inline with the nature of the camera, program what you want and don't have things fixed a certain way that can't be changed.

badlands national park

Fujifilm has release firmware updates for 14 Fujifilm cameras. The updates are mostly to add support for the brand new Fujifilm XApp, but worth a special mention are: Fujifilm X-T5 and Fujifilm X-H2: Significant autofocus improvements Fujifilm X-H2S and X-H2: Option to assign the command dial to change ISO on the X-H2S and X-H2 Below you’ll find the links where you can check out all the details and download the firmware. GFX Series Camera Body FUJIFILM GFX100S Ver.2.00 FUJIFILM GFX50S II Ver.2.00 X Series Camera Body FUJIFILM X-H2S Ver.5.00 FUJIFILM X-H2 Ver.3.00 FUJIFILM X-Pro3 Ver.2.00 FUJIFILM X-T5 Ver.2.00 FUJIFILM X-T4 Ver.2.00 FUJIFILM X-T3 Ver.5.00 FUJIFILM X-S10 Ver.3.00 FUJIFILM X-T30 II Ver.2.00 FUJIFILM X-T30 Ver.2.00 FUJIFILM X-E4 Ver.2.00 FUJIFILM X100V Ver.3.00

I dont think its a bug, just a change in default. Have you guys tried setting it up as I suggested? To me, having control of when focus peaking is on is better than the camera deciding. I switch it on and off as I need it with the F2 button, its very responsive.

I'm also very disappointed with this XT5 bug. The XT2/3/4 all work fine (with clear preview when shutter is half pressed). To promote this camera as a 'purist photographers camera' with such a major flaw with focus peaking just beggars belief! If Fuji read this, PLEASE FIX THIS BUG (also note that in low light the peak highlights 'flicker').

I have just looked at my X-T2. Yes, the peak highlights are hidden in the T2, when the first pressure is taken, as opposed to the T5. The viewfinder information is partially cleared in both cameras and appears to be the same to me. I don't know of a way to alter the behavior.

18/33, both because those are my two fav focal lengths and I also think the 18 is the best lens of the bunch

I was at Sebring this last weekend, and took the opportunity to put the x-t5 and the viltrox 75mm f/1.2 (both with current firmware) through its paces. I’m happy to report that the AF system was easily up to the task. The shots I’ve managed to finish processing are here… Sebring 2023 I had also rented a xf150-600 from lensrental.com to see if I would like it. It unfortunately too much lens, and offered few chances for being used. The 75mm focal length was near perfect. I did get to also use my XF 18mm f1.4 r lm wr which is a stellar lens as well.

This is a known fact about the XF 80mm. You will notice that as soon as you power on the camera, the clinking stops. I believe it has something to do with the OIS. Fuji has confirmed that this is normal behaviors and that there is no danger to the lens.

Minolta 58/1.2 - adapter K&F concept MD-GFX - GFX50R full open

Don't shoot raw, fuji jpegs are so good, more time behind the camera and less time looking at a PC monitor?

Dumping Adobe for Capture One? Such nonsense. Learn to use the tools right and Adobe LR and PS produce stunning results.