jerryy

Venus and the Falling Leaves Moon When this new moon grows up it will be called the Hunter's Full Moon or the Falling leaves Moon.

Blackbird Murmurations - 2 2 of 4

Once you have the camera setup as Greybeard describes, turn it off, connect it using an appropriate USB cable to your Mac. Turn the camera on. Look in the applications folder for a program called Image Capture, start it going. Your camera should be in the list of devices Image Capture can download images from the camera. Note: depending on which version of macOS you are running, you may have have to tell the security settings that it is okay to import from the camera. This is due to Apple’s general security settings not Fujifilm’s stuff. If you do not allow the computer to “trust” the camera, things get tricky. https://support.apple.com/guide/image-capture/transfer-images-imgcp1003/mac

It is also called the flange distance, which for the X-Mount system is 17.7mm (17,7mm). One common distance other systems use is 55mm.

Blackbird Murmurations - 1 1 of 4

Okay, that makes it clearer, the way you wrote about no countdown sounded like you wanted it to act as a countdown timer before snapping a photo, which is an entirely different thing. T Mode should start click right away, but stay open for the length you set. Did you buy this one used? Have you updated the firmware to the latest version? It sounds like there are a couple of things that may broken. If you got this body new, you may find it worthwhile to get the dealer to check it over while it is still under warranty. p.s. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2/taking_photo/shooting_mode/index.html Just to double check, you do have it in one of the p, s, a, m shooting modes? It sounds like you do, but sometimes one of the dials jumps into a position it should not.

T Mode stands for timed mode, how long you want the shutter to be open. You need to set it to a time. Usually you use one of the dials, front or back, to set the time you wish to use. T mode is a long exposure setup without needing to use a remote shutter release in B Mode or dig through the menus to set up interval shooting. It sounds like it is working correctly, it is just using the baked in default time. Once you set the time, and press the shutter button, it should go click and take a timed-length photo, then shut the shutter, you should hear another click as the shutter closes. Using a remote release allows you to take a second to let any vibrations in your tripod to settle, and then trip the shutter without causing new vibrations. You can also dig in the menus to set up interval timed shooting with only a few shots, you can set an interval between the shots as well as a ‘wait before starting’ time.

That does sound a bit odd, it could be a one time glitch or due to how much the lighting conditions changed while you were working on the image, even big stoppers can let in a lot more light for a moderate change in lighting conditions. (You initially mention two concerns, what was the second one?) Try this, repeat the setup, taking a shot with nr turned on and go through the full process) Turn it off and take a shot. Turn it back on and see if the shot time jumps way back up again, all the while making sure to note the lighting changes. On a related note, there is a way to get the same value of using nr via your image processing software (GIMP, Affinity Photo, Photoshop, etc., any of those that support layers with blend modes). Take your shots with nr turned off, then put the lens cap on, take a shot using the exact same parameters as you used for your regular images.— same time, iso, f-stop, etc.. Bring both the regular image and the cap-on image into your processor as layers, the stacking order will depend on your software, but it will typically be with the cap-on image above the regular image. Set the blend mode for the cap-on layer to “subtract”. This will remove hot pixels, etc. from your regular image just like the in-camera method does. But you save a lot of very valuable time while you are on site. The drawback to this is that you need to do this before you turn the camera off after taking the image set, and also take one now and then as you are going if the camera is left on for very long times. One other thing to note, if you are going to change any of the iso or time settings etc., you need to take a on-cap image before making changes to the settings.

Tasty. Okay, what time do they serve second breakfast? They do know about second breakfast right? (part three.)

What about this? Yeah, that should do it ... (part two of three.)

I just need something to take the edge off ... What do they keep in the cupboard here? (part one of three.)

Have you ever wondered what this label is used for? It shows up not just on Fujifilm camera bodies, but on ones made by other manufacturers as well. This label tells you the line where the sensor is inside the body. If you have ever tried to attach your camera body to a birding scope or telescope or something other than a regular camera lens, you run into an issue of getting it to focus. Some of those instruments tell you they have a certain distance (called back-focus) behind the last "lens" element where the image is actually projected. You then need to add in extension tubes of one kind or another between the "lens" and the camera body to get the projected image onto the sensor. But you need to know where the sensor is to be able to measure the distance correctly. This label tells you the line where the sensor is in the body.

With autumn closing in ... The temperature is still hot to very hot, but the days are getting shorter, and some few of the tree leaves are starting to change colors and the berry bushes / trees are kicking out fruit for migrating birds to munch on while they pass through on their way to winter homes.

I will give it a try. Mostly these posted so far are taken all over Kentucky and Indiana (both in the USA).

Your Pentax 645z images are around 53 million pixels, about half the size of your GFX 100s images, which will make a huge difference in what you have to work with. https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/46086/difference-between-raw-file-size-and-photoshop-image-size This may help or make it worse. You wrote about the file size differences you were seeing in Photoshop as compared to the raw file size, which presumably is the size on your sd card or hard drive. At the risk of making things way worse, it does get confusing, hard drive size is not the same as memory size even though they have the same units, (MB). I think, based on what you are writing, the results you are seeing are correct.

That camera puts out 102 million pixels per image, at 16 bits per pixel. An image is going to take a very large chunk of computer memory just to hold it, then when you have image processors adding in their parts and storing that on a hard drive, the file size will be, well, …, also large. You really need good file management practices to handle those files, but the beautiful images you can squeeze out of that sensor are remarkable. Even though you store the raw file as compressed (by the way, most place say the compressed lossless file size are around 100MB, and the compressed lossy file sizes are smaller) the image processor has to uncompress it to work on it, and any further storing will rely on the image processor’s file saving, not the original raw file. Shorter: you need lots of hard drive space and computer memory to work on these files.

Have you set which option you want for the rear command dial in your setup menu? The choices for the dials are on page 207 in the full manual. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t30/menu_setup/button-dial_setting/index.html It sounds like you currently have the ‘none’ option set.

Fujifilm has a standalone raw converter program that turns your raw images into either jpeg or tiff files. It has quite a few tools, of course you can then import the jpeg or tiff files into image editors for further processing if you want. https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/support/compatibility/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/ https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/support/download/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/

Wait, you are not expecting me to do that are you?

And touchdown. Whew!

On final approach ... Slow Down! (part one of three)

Fujifilm may be able to tweak the very latest lens offerings a bit with firmware updates, but there is a hard physical limit to that. They would really need to release brand new, unknown, never seen before glass to go beyond the limits imposed by the current xf-mount lens limitations, maybe putting them into the gf-mount type of lenses. Towards the last part you are referring to, Canon still uses 300 dpi for their printers and Epson is at the 300/600 dpi point. Be careful to remember dpi and ppi are different things and nozzle jet-dots are different still. This linked article discusses more of that. I saw an interview on Luminous Landscape a very long time ago where Bruce Fraser was discussing this and made his comments with tongue firmly planted in cheek and twinkles in his eyes. https://www.digitalphotopro.com/technique/photography-workflow/the-right-resolution/ “Bruce used to say that the normal viewing distance for a photographer is limited only by the length of their nose.”