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jerryy

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Everything posted by jerryy

  1. The f-stop is not changing, which is the ratio stays the same. Constant aperture is really constant f-ratio., which means effective or virtual ratio. A truly manual constant aperture lens operates differently than by-the-wire lenses, which is why the older ones are so large, they have to maintain that ratio over their range. Newer lenses do it differently which is why they are referred to as having virtual constant ratios. Btw, that Canon approach is pretty limited. Try that trick on a wterfall and you will see the waterfall change from falling water to shaving cream.
  2. These discussions may convince you otherwise: https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/121850/d7500-exposure-changes-when-in-m-mode-and-zooming-video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4h8rQlrWhNk These have been problems for a while, and folks are trying novel techniques to fix them.
  3. Constant aperture lenses are the best you will find when trying to use lenses built for stills photography in a video / movie setting. If you want to use lenses built for video / movie setting, try these: https://www.fujifilm.com/us/en/business/optical-devices/cine-lens/mk Or go with some of the third party cine lenses. One quick way to know you are looking in the right place, is when the specs list t-stops instead of f-stops.
  4. It is known as being a problem for variable aperture lenses regardless of who manufacturers them. Here is an short version using Canon cameras and various lenses: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wQutJ16lgU The long-standing answer is to use constant aperture zoom lenses.
  5. Ah, I think I understand. You are not proposing feature changes to make things better for photographers as a whole, you are just wanting something that deals with the stuff you find annoying.
  6. You do realize you are wishing at cross purposes to your own wishes? If you get rid of all of the jpeg stuff, that wipes out the film simulation as well — those are only applied to the embedded preview in the raw image (which is a jpg image) and the saved jpeg images. The raw image carries a note about which simulation was chosen, but that is so the raw convertors can apply it or ignore it as they choose, it is not applied wholesale to the raw image. AF-S is the mainstay of landscape photographers that use auto-focus. Very few use AF-C to get those still images, actually AF-C is pretty close to movie/video mode which you are wanting to toss out. T mode still needs a dial, are you really wanting a PSAM version of the X-T3?
  7. You can, it will work, but …. consider the age on the X-T10’s battery, the X-T30 II will drain it faster, the newer battery is built with larger capacity. Also, the newer battery has the middle terminals being used by the camera to regulate temperature. The ones on the older battery are not activated for that. If cost is an issue, there are several third party sellers that have compatible batteries.
  8. If you, oh say, set the front dial to adjust the shutter speed and leave the back dial adjusting the ISO, you get a quick way to use the in-between shutter speeds. That is, if you have the top dial shutter speed set to 250, the front dial will let you roll the shutter speed back to 200 (in-between the 250 and 180 top dial shutter speeds) or roll forward to 320 or 400 (in-between the 250 and 500 top dial shutter speeds). Of course, this works for the other top dial settings as well as long as there are standard shutter speeds in-between the top dial settings. The X-T4 is a very good camera that is difficult to say no to, but unless that money burning up your wallet is threatening to take down your whole house, the 'What is important to you' seems more relevant. If you current camera is broken, ... that is a different horse of course. edit: p.s. Try turning on the EVF's large indicators mode to better see the ISO setting. In the Set Up Menu (wrench or spanner as some call it) >> Screen Set-up >> Large Indicators Mode (EVF) >> On. It can make quite a difference.
  9. I put a new version of Bode's Stuff on page one of this thread. The framing is better suited to that telescope's focal length. The dust lanes still are not showing up very well, but there is always next 'galaxy season' 😀.
  10. Can you give an example of what setting you want to use the camera with focus tracking? For instance, you could set the front button/switch to ‘C’ mode with manual shutter speeds and apertures, while having the top dial set to ‘CH’ or ‘CL’ — these are continuous focus modes, high speed and low speed, while mashing the shutter button and get lots of good photos of the kids playing with the kittens and puppies. But that may not be what you have in mind.
  11. Can you outline the steps you are going through to move the image to your phone? The following works for me: 1) Turn on the camera, go into the menus, select the Shooting Menu (the icon looks like a camera body) scroll down list in this menu to the Wireless Communication option and select it. 2) turn the iPhone on, go into the Settings app and then choose the WiFi option. Your Fujifilm camera should be in the list of networks, choose it. The first time you may get a warning about joining an unknown network, ignore any password requests, etc. Note: This is an un-secured network so, make sure you are actually joining the one offered by the camera. You can turn the camera off and on a few times (navigate back to turn on the wifi option each time) to make sure you recognize it. Once it is recognized and joined it should start appearing in your shortcut list. Depending on how many other wifi networks are running in your area, the phone should be able to join the camera’s network within 10 - 15 seconds. The iPhone can be a little slow about recognizing newly turned on networks, also the camera lists its name when it starts the network, so you really do not need to do this unless things are strange that day. 3) Once the phone has joined the network, open the Camera Remote app on your iPhone and try to adjust the settings via the live shooting section, if that works, take a shot, and then it should allow you to select it and import it. This one is a little non intuitive, but after you take a shot, next to the shutter button in the app, a small image square will appear, push it and the screen will change to a listing of only the images where the app was used to take the shots. If you are shooting raw, the camera will convert the image to jpg before transfering it. 4) There is a “front” section where you can select images on the camera and the app will import them into the phone 5) There is another “front” section where the app can select images for importing. On your iPhone, the Settings menu has a listing for the Cam Remote, open it and make sure that the option to allow Cam Remote to access the Photos app is set to all photos — this allows Cam Remote to put images into the photos folder. Also make sure the local networks option is turned on. Turning on the bluetooth option does not hurt, and is needed if you use the other bluetooth joining network approach — what I am listing is the joining using only wifi approach. In the camera menu Connection Setting > General Settings > Resize Image …. you are given the option of sending the image at original size or having the camera resize it for smaller phone screens.
  12. Would something like this work for you? https://www.ebay.com/itm/203944725360?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=e998838b4607109f79a5e155e1640726
  13. You may be better suited finding a lens set that gives you a particular feel you like color, contrast, warmth, etc. instead of just being sharp enough to cut. Not very many folks care to have portrait images that show every skin blemish, not to mention if you have to spend a lot of time editing away those blemishes you are not spending the time photographing, nor do a lot of folks want plasticy images that come from too much skin smoothing. For instance, for a long time, Canon sold a soft-focus lens just for portrait and fashion use that gave the same look as when photographers would smear a little petroleum jelly across the glass to soften the image for those very reasons I mentioned. Try renting some lenses from your local camera shop and see if you like them, then get a fresh copy to keep. Fujifilm has a 90mm that is well liked for portraits. Rokinon sells a 85mm manual focus, lower cost, that is good. There are a lot of other companies out there selling very good lenses. Some other thoughts: Get a kids’ small teddy bear — raggedy kind, and put it on a swing or couch. You will not need to worry about privacy issues and it will let you easily find focusing issues. Raw Therapee, Dark Table and Silky Pix are also great at converting Fujifilm raw files, lots of others as well.
  14. There are several things to note, but it will be tricky to say much about severely cropped processed jpegs. Without knowing focus points, ss and f-stop settings, the ISO information is not very useful. The XC 15-45mm is essentially an entry level kit lens, you can get good images with it as long as you find out its eccentricities and work within those, but even its ardent fans will tell you it is sharpest between 15-30mm with 31-45mm being usable but not as sharp. For portrait work, there are far better lenses in the Fujifilm lineup or in the third party offerings. Put the camera on a tripod, connect a remote release and work through several focal lengths and f-stops to find out where it shines. The Viltrox lens is similarly an entry type of lens, it is very good for its low price, but it is not the best for close-up portraits, but better suited for outdoor environmental portrait shots. As far as Lightroom goes, it sometimes has troubles if you do not apply lens profiles correctly.
  15. Is it this one: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4142557 scroll to the page bottom for the explanation.
  16. Okay, just to eliminate any source of confusion, I am referring to the Camera Remote app, not the one called Camera app, the names are very similar, any help for one will sound close enough to the other but be different and cause problems.
  17. It could be a permissions settings problem on your iPhone. Your iPhone is probably running IOS version 15 or so, the Camera Remote App is for IOS version 14 and has not yet been updated for version 15 — Apple made some security updates that can affect how files can be transferred to your phone. Can you use the app to connect and then change settings on your camera such as shutter speed or white balance and then take a photo?
  18. I believe you will need to give folks more information to be able to help you. Which app are you using? Are you trying to transfer wirelessly to a computer, smart phone or tablet? Do you have wifi and bluetooth turned on in the camera and the receiving device? Stuff like that, please give as much information as you can.
  19. Coat hanger... (This is the equivalent of a just under 28 minutes exposure.) This is Collinder 399 (Cr 399), The Coat Hanger Cluster, also known as Al Sufi's Cluster or Brocchi's Cluster. Except it is not. Cluster? Constellation? Something Else? A lot of astronomers have studied and debated what this group of stars is as an astronomical thing. The most recent studies tell us these ten stars form an asterism -- a bunch of stars that form a pattern in the sky, but have no other connection to each other (The Big Dipper -- Ursa Major is an example of an asterism). The Coat Hanger Cluster is easy to see using binoculars and small telescopes, it is in the constellation Vulpecula. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocchi's_Cluster https://apod.nasa.gov/apod/ap081223.html https://skyandtelescope.org/online-gallery/collinder-399-coathanger/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asterism_(astronomy)
  20. If you go back and reread what I wrote, especially the first note, you will be able to see if the e. c. is working correctly or not. What you are describing in your last post is not a bug, it works that way on all recently manufactured cameras regardless of who makes them, Sony, Canon, Nikon, Leica, etc. etc. Earlier made models only started allowing e.c. so their application varies. Setting the shutter speed and the aperture manually while leaving ISO set to auto has the camera deciding what ISO to set to expose the image to levels that its evaluative algorithms decide is ‘standard’. Changing the shutter speed or f-stop does matter, but not much as far as brightness goes, as long as the ISO is set to ‘auto’, the camera will adjust the ISO to have the exposure match the ‘standard’. Additionally, — not to change gears, but as long as you set one of the parameters to auto and the remainders to manual, the camera will act the same, by trying to achieve a ‘standard’ exposure. This happens for recently made cameras by all manufacturers. That really is the point of ‘auto’ — to have the exposure match a standard. If, for a scene, the auto iso would normally use ISO 200 and you use the e. c. dial to boost the exposure by say +1, the camera will double the ISO to 400 and use that instead for that particular image. In the first post, I mentioned how you can make sure the e. c. is working, give it a try.
  21. There is ‘P’ mode. Exposure compensation only works to override ‘auto’ settings. When you set a parameter via a manual setting, you are telling the camera to leave that setting as-is. If you leave a parameter on ‘auto’, the camera can make adjustments as best its evaluative algorithms let it for the scene being exposed. Exposure compensation tells the camera to boost or lower the exposure by way of overriding auto-set parameters. Which manually set parameters should the e.c. button override? It is not thoughtlessness on Fujifilm’s part, that is the way it should be, otherwise ‘manual’ has no meaning and ‘auto’ becomes a guessing game as to what resemblance the image exposure has to the scene. Fully manual is a very good approach, but manual shutter speed, manual aperture and ‘auto iso’ is very useful for times when the lighting is quickly changing, but one needs a certain depth of field and motion freezing (or freeing) shutter speed. The e.c. dial lets you brighten or darken the image compared to what the camera thinks should be a standard exposure.
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