jerryy

That helps you know which of your auto settings (1 — 3) you are using, since you can set the iso, ss etc. differently for each one. Keep in mind that if you want to see what the settings were for a shot without moving that image to a computer, push the playback button and then cycle through the DISP BACK button pushes. Those screens tells you all the settings you had in place for that image.

Owen County / Carroll County -- Kentucky, USA.

Here are some decent articles: https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/white-balance.htm https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/stories/advanced-month-2-exposure-8-custom-wb/ If you are going into a crazy mixed lighting setup and forgot to bring your Gretag Macbeth color gear with you, and the copier supply store is closed (no bright white paper available), you can usually find a grocery store open that sells bleached white coffee filters. Put one over the lens, point the camera at the sky or a uniform light and you have a pretty close white balance source.

https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/products/software/ There are three that may help you: X Acquire, X Raw Studio, and / or PhotoShop LightRoom Tether plugin -- this one costs money, the first two are free. You will need to set things up for tethering. Searching for X-T2 tethering may bring up more information for you. Here is an old link (another Adobe workaround) I do not know if it is still worth looking into... https://blog.danielzihlmann.com/photography/wireless-tethering-with-the-fujifilm-x-t2-or-fujilm-x-pro2/2016/12/07/

Decide on your budget, add some more (for all of the things you will think you will need after you get a camera -- in-spite of whether you actually need them or not 😀). Once you do that, take a look here: https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/products/cameras/ One of these will catch your eye. Ditto for the lenses. Check your local camera shop to see if they have some in stock. The various online sellers often have sales on the gear. Once you get a little closer, check back to make sure things are not too far off the mark, so to speak.

Are you using the XC 15-45mm kits lens? That may be what is giving you some troubles, that one is not Fujifilm’s fastest focusing lens. It does have some low light issues while the body does fine when you put a faster focusing lens on it. Which lens to use depends on your budget and which focal range (how you intend to use it) you want. The XF 16-50mm is a constant f2.8, the 35mm f1.4 or 23mm f1.4 are well regarded for low light settings. The XF 18-55mm does fine work, but is not as fast as the others I mentioned. Stopping down means setting a higher number f stop on the lens (or use the body to control the lens — you turn this on using the menu settings).

How long did you leave the battery out? Try leaving the battery out for at least four days to make sure the smaller internal “battery” completely discharges. You will have to re-enter all of your default menu settings again. By Sim cards, do you mean the SD cards? Were you trying to pair the camera to a phone?

Auriga The Charioteer. This constellation usually shows up in the Northern Hemisphere during the late fall, early winter months. Its shape is easy to recognize and with its mainstay star Capella being so bright, it is easy to find. (constellation stars are listed in red, DSOs are listed in green.) Auriga is itself home to lots and lots of DSOs (deep sky objects --- various kinds of nebulas, galaxies, star clusters, etc.) one of these is IC 405, the Flaming Star Nebula: This is the equivalent of a 30 minute exposure. 1.) https://www.constellation-guide.com/constellation-list/auriga-constellation/ 2.) https://science.nasa.gov/ic-405-flaming-star-nebula

I do not directly know the answer to your question because I have not tried it with that lens, but this may help: https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/exposure-center/back-button-focusing-all-you-need-to-know/ Scroll down to Method B, it sounds like what you are trying to do.

There is something almost magical about well done black and white photos!

This is the effect you get from shooting at f4 i.e. shallow depth-of-field (DOF). If you look at the regions, the red one is 'sharper' than the green one or the white one. If you look closer at the green one and the white one, as you look from the center of the image out to their respective edgee, the 'sharpness' fades out evenly -- based relatively from where the camera was held. If MDM is online today, he can show you some PP (post processing) ideas to remove softness. In the film days. photographers used various techniques to 'fix' the images such as unsharp mask and other contrast enhancers. Digital photographs sometimes need that same approach. From the taking-the-shot perspective, for things like you have here, try using more DOF by way of increasing the f-stop. Start at say f5.6 or f6.4 and go up from there, but do not be surprised to find yourself shooting at f11 or so. There is also a technique called 'focus bracketing' that can be really handy for shots like this. Do not be afraid of boosting the ISO to keep the image from being dark, the X-T4 has plenty of noise free latitude. Of course, there are tripods. Uhh, at the risk of changing the subject, if you are intending to print these, try changing your camera settings to 300 dpi over your current 72 dpi and use the Adobe color space instead of the sRGB color space. But why do that is the subject for another different thread.

Hello back at you! I am still ‘Alive and Kicking’. How are you doing these days? But always though, as you and Greybeard show, I cannot get lazy in looking at these images, I should look closer. But the image, as shot, looks okay to me. 😀

The EXIF settings are below the image on the left side. The lens name is missing though, but just guessing from the entry for Maximum Aperture = 4.0, it could be a 35mm or a short zoom. As Greybeard mentions, the low-res version as well as the larger version looks okay. Some things to note: 1.) The x and y resolutions are set to 72 dpi. On a computer screen which uses 96dpi or 120 dpi, you can run into some scaling issues from the monitor’s display algorithms that can make it seem softer than it is. 2.) You are shooting at f4, which does not have a deep depth of field such as what you may expect coming from cell phone cameras. What that means is that some parts of the image will seem soft or out of focus compared to others depending on the selected focus point — for example: the pen is fine, the letters seem soft. Try using f8 or f11 or even f 14 as a minimum for this shot and see if you get “sharper” images. Depth of field is an artistic effect that takes some getting used to. HTH.

It looks like someone sold you a modified camera. With the lens off, you should be seeing the sensor, not that cover. I would take it back to the dealer and get a different one.

Can you post a photo? What black strip?

Lunchtime, but misty morning fog refuses to leave.

The Seven Sisters (1.5 minutes)... up closer (30 minutes)... more so (50 minutes)... This one goes by many names, it is mostly known as M45 https://www.messier-objects.com/messier-45-pleiades/ or The Pleiades: https://www.space.com/pleiades.html it has a lot of history: https://naic.edu/~gibson/pleiades/pleiades_myth.html .

Not as a menu setting, at least not yet, but these two articles may help: https://www.beyondthesight.com/xt4-settings-for-video/#:~:text=You can similarly use the 180 ° shutter,that offers up to 240 fps slow motion. https://super8arena.com/shutter_speed.php

Some additional things to note: ISO takes the place of ASA -- you can find some spirited discussions regarding how close the ISO number matches the ASA number you are used to. The histogram replaces the light meter. That one will take some getting used to, this may help or hurt: https://www.shutterbug.com/content/histogram-or-light-meter-which-tool-best-nailing-exposure-video You also set up the type of metering your camera uses, spot, average, etc. Ask questions as you come to them, there are lots of folks that can help.

https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-e3/menu_setup/screen_set-up/index.html Scroll down the page to the part about Disp. Custom Setting. You can decide what you want displayed in the evf or the back lcd. The DISP BACK button gives you the option of having that information on or off as you choose. I listed the X-E3 manual based on you using that in your message, but if you really meant X-T3 (since the message ended up in the X-T3 forum), it still works the same way.