jerryy

It seems good you were able to find an answer to your question shortly after posing it. As to your remaining question, can you give some more details? Because what you are describing is very unusual. Which card reader were you using to move the images to your computer? Were you double clicking the card’s disk image to open it and then using the finder to select all of the images you wanted to move, then dragging them over to a folder on your Mac? Did you use the eject command before removing the card from the card reader? There are a couple of things to also try. Take a few new images using a freshly formatted card, put the card in the reader. Open the app Image Capture and use it to move the photos. Use the eject command before removing the card and see it the card is still messed up. If so, try again, but this time before putting the card in the reader, slide the write protect switch on the card to the protect spot. [The write protect switch is a small little tab on the side of the card.] Move the images, then use the eject command, remove the card, slide the write protect switch back to the unlock position and put it back in the camera. Let us know how things go — uh yeah sometimes it can take a while to get an answer. https://support.apple.com/guide/image-capture/welcome/mac

Welcome to the forum. There are some sports oriented photographers that stop by now and then that may give you better tips. You did not mention your photography background, so please forgive me if I say something you already know. Practice. Practice. Practice. Your son might be happy to indulge this 😀. Set the lens to auto focus and for now, concentrate on the three basic parts, shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Set the ISO around 800 to 1600. This may seem too bright for a sunny day, but it will give you room to use the aperture and shutter speed without the scene getting dark. If the lighting is darker, use ISO 1600 to 6400. Set the f-stop on the lens to around 5.6, this should give you enough depth of field (the sharp in focus part) to get his face and most of his bike — this will also depend on how close you are to him — while blurring some of the backgound. As you get used to what this aperture does at the distance you are from him, try other settings, wide open (the smallest f-stop number) can give you very pleasing results as can f16. Remember you are focusing on him, not taking landscape photos, so the background blurring is going to be different. And the last part, shutter speed. Start around 1/400. The higher the shutter speed, the less motion blurring you get and the more the foreground will seem in focus. This is why you need the higher ISO, because higher shutter speeds will make the image go very dark. Try a bunch of the speeds. There is an art to getting the right blurring for the shot, from none at all to massively blurred. Then back to the practice part. After this, those other things on your camera are there to give you options in your approaches. You might set Auto ISO up so you can concentrate on shutter speed without worrying what rapidly changing sky clouds are doing to the images. Or how to use the back lcd as a focus aid, etc. Bring in these new options in a few at a time. Oh yeah, take the lens off auto focus mode and see how you like that, it does work.

I hope you are able to get out and see the many wonderful sights!!! Locally, weeellll, mostly we have had this during the days and something similar during the nights. Arrgh!!!😃 For completenesses sake, clouds did clear away in time for the Strawberry Full Moon and the smoke from the wildfires... The clouds are back.

Eight bit or 16 bit? It depends. If your image has tonal changes or gradients. then go with 16 bit. If the image has more solid shapes, eight bit printing may be okay in that the eye may not notice any problems in transition changes. Banding in the images is far more possible using those 8 bit TIFFs than the 14 or 16 bit files. The world has been moving towards the 16 bit world for a while now, albeit in a sort of two steps forward, one step sideways and one step backwards kind of jerky motion by way of color spaces equipment use and support. As generic monitors (screens, tv, cellphones, game consoles, etc.) support more “realism”, demand for better quality based images follows. Which approach is better for you (single shot vs multi-shot) is going to depend on your work flow. What sharpening techniques are you using? Have you tried things like high pass filters, etc. Here is a quick mention of up-scaling: https://affinity.help/photo2ipad/en-US.lproj/contents.xml?page=pages/SizeTransform/imageSize.html&title=Changing image size Lanczos 3 non-separable is supposed to give you the best results. The Lanczos 4 algorithm is better and is out there, but I am not aware of any current commercial photo image processors that offer it — that just means I do not know of any at this moment. p.s. Welcome the forum.

Welcome to the forum. What f-stop are you typically setting? F2 will cause different changes than f4 will. Also, your posting mentions you have two of the three exposure triangle parts set on auto. It sounds like the camera is adjusting mostly the shutter speed. What happens if you only set ISO to auto and manually set the shutter speed and f stop?

Welcome to the forum. For seeing your histogram, you can include it in your displays by going to the setup menu >>> screen setup >>> disp. custom settings >>> (scroll waaaay down to get to) histogram. Check the box and save the settings. This will show the histogram in the evf. To see it on the lcd, you will to push the disp./back button to switch the lcd to the custom view. Your other questions are more tricky to guess/answer. Is the maximum ISO for auto ISO set at a low limit? Beyond that, without being there on the scene and knowing what all the other shooting settings you used, any guess is just, a guess.

Welcome to the forum. That sounds like an issue for which you might want to have your local camera store / repair shop take a look at it and make sure there is not any mechanical troubles happening in the switch. It seems strange the switch will let you choose settings on either side of those two, but not let you choose those two settings.

This is getting a little confusing. There is a switch on the front of the camera labelled M-C-S which changes the focus mode between Manual, Continuous and Single shot focus mode. In C or S modes, the camera automatically focuses the lens — for lenses that can be auto-focused — while in M mode, you twist one of the lens rings to focus the lens, the camera takes the shot only for the focus you set the lens to use. After that, it is as @Greybeard is saying, aperture exposure and distance scale are not really related.

As a concept, the idea of what it is and how it can help “you” get the images “you” want is still there, and is probably still there in the back of their minds for folks who used it, but now-a-days with focus stacking, it is a concept put in the same place as the ‘sunny-16 rule’.

The so called smart adapters are pretty good about giving you very fast auto focus and putting the EXIF information into the file. Some people use other manufacturers’ lenses via the adapter to get great wildlife images, including birds in flight. One such adapter company is Fringer: https://www.fringeradapter.com There are other companies that are well regarded for their adapters, your browser’s search engine should be able to find them. @pw-pix is giving you good advice about the X-T5. It should easily handle all of the situations your message described.

You maybe seeing this in French if your browser is set to automatically translate other languages, or you are viewing the site from a place where English is not considered a default language. Normally, many of us would see the postings in English, we see your first couple of postings in French, but @pw-pix nicely translated the first one for us.

Come back and take a look again in the Fall, especially in the early misty morning. I think you will like what you see. Late afternoon will also be a treat in a different way.

Thank you for letting us know. Can you post some images of this in action?

I do not think that rubbery looking seal on the side is actually a cable channel cover, but is instead a seal. If you compare the bottom of the X-T30 to the bottom of the X-T3, https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t30/about_this_camera/parts/index.html vs https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t3/about_this_camera/parts/index.html the X-T30 has the cable channel cover but the X-T3 does not. YMMV.

I am not certain this is possible. The X-T3 was meant to be used with an optional vertical battery grip that holds two batteries rather than being tethered via a dc coupler I have read of people leaving the battery door open in order to use couplers, which of course is not a great approach but can work. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

He does offer settings for various cameras, including Fujifilm cameras: https://erenjam.com/shop/cinematic p.s. Welcome to the forum.

It has worked that way on the X-T line since the X-T1. As @Greybeard mentions, these are fine tunings between each of the speeds listed on the top shutter speed dial. You can set the top shutter speed dial to T and then use a command dial to roll through all of the partial shutter speed stops. But be careful, if you accidentally push the dial in, you will be adjusting settings for other modes. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Awesome!

Back on Page 4 of this thread is a brief excerpt about Coma Berenices. At the bottom of the constellation lies Messier Object M-53. This is the equivalent of an exposure that is a little less than 17 minutes. A Closer Look on a different day: This is the exposure equivalent of a little more than 45 minutes. NASA used the Hubble and got a pretty good shot of M53: https://science.nasa.gov/mission/hubble/science/explore-the-night-sky/hubble-messier-catalog/messier-53/ About Berenice: https://www.constellation-guide.com/constellation-list/coma-berenices-constellation/

Beautiful!

@SauveGV and @SimonF, Thank you for your very kind words!