jerryy

That does sound a bit odd for not being seen in your iMac's finder view ... Try this. Put the card in your card reader and connect it to your iMac. Start the Terminal program (it is in the Utilities folder) and type in the following at the prompt: cd /Volumes (and hit the return key). Your card should have some name, say Untitled 1 or something like that. Type in: cd 'Untitled 1' (and hit the return key). -- the ' ' characters are there to make sure that any spaces in the name get included. If the name has spaces and you leave of the ' ' characters, the command

The raf files from the X-S10 are not yet recognized by Apple’s operating systems (Big Sur, Catalina, etc.). So any program that relies on using the underlying Apple Raw Converter — this is part of the os, will not “see” the raw files as being something they can work on. This issue is usually handled quickly by the folks at Apple in their minor os updates. In the mean time, you should be able to open the card in the Finder, get the listing of the raf and jpg files, and copy them to your desired destination folder. Then open the raw files in any editing program that does its own X-S10 raf c

Have you considered DarkTable? https://www.darktable.org/about/features/ https://www.darktable.org/resources/camera-support/ Like anything else, it takes a bit of getting used to.

The Cabin In The Woods

Ready for harvesting ... .

Conductor.

Over on another site, Morris has a thread about settings for birds cruising around using zone focusing: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1594539 HTH p.s. it looks like that pond was well stocked with goldfish .

Get a card reader. Pull the card from the camera and use the reader to copy from the card to your pc, then use the software from there. It will be so much faster, the time savings alone will pay for the purchase.

Nice shots! Your camera is telling you that for your chosen shutter speed and ISO limit, it needs a faster f-stop to get what its algorithms determine are needed for a good exposure. Widen the ISO range, or go fully manual for every setting. Or use a lens with a faster aperture.

This may ease your concerns regarding whether what was working will still work: https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/support/compatibility/cameras/x-t3/ The shorter answer is that all of the x-mount lens work on all of the x-mount bodies and the batteries are interchangeable between the X-T2 and the X-T3.

You may find some good results with these, or, get closer to what you are trying to achieve: Affinity Photo has a module for creating HDR images, this is a run-through example: https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/uk/tutorials/create-vibrant-hdr-images-in-affinity-photo-with-merge-and-tone-mapping-tools The person that built Starry Sky Stacker and Starry Landscape Stacker also has a program for long exposure stacking: https://sites.google.com/site/longexposurestacker/home

Underside of an active trestle bridge.

it is a bit of a sidetrack, but why would you not use TIFF to bounce back and forth between PS and Lightroom? Especially since Adobe recommends using TIFF over psd for doing that. https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/supported-file-formats.html

I am not understanding what you mean by "... exporting my X100F JPGs and finalizing them ... ". Are you wanting it to pull images off of your camera on to your 'work' drive so that you can then sort and process them? If so, then it is usually faster to pull the card out of the camera and use a card reader connected to your computer to copy the files. Just about all of the raw developers will also let you do more processing to jpg files. Capture One is very good, you can get the Fujifilm Express version for free and try it to see if you like its approach. Then move on up to the Pro ve

This app has just been updated. The release note says the update fixes issues with iOS14.

The tricky part is whether or not there is crackling when the other sounds are played because they all use the same speaker. One thing to try (to pin down if the speaker is bad) is to turn off the mechanical shutter, turn on the electronic shutter and use each of the sound effects for the shutter sound. [This is on page 191 of the manual]. If they are also messed up, the speaker is most likely fried.

Have you tried changing the volume setting to see if this has any affect? Also do you notice any oddities when other sounds such as self-timer beep or shutter sound are played?