jerryy

It does look strange…, but no, it is part of CSX’s (a railway company) maintenance equipment.

Are you certain the spot is on the inside and not some small amount leftover from the spot you cleaned? Maybe try a different brand of lens cleaner, but make sure it is safe for lenses so that the lens coatings are not removed. Even weather resistant lenses can get dust inside, the seals can only keep out so much dust and zoom lenses are known to get dusty on occasion. More so than prime lenses do. Weather resistant means more sealing, but achieving perfect sealing is tough to get. It is also possible the dust has been there from the time it was manufactured and you are only now noticing because of the white dot. Does the dust show up in any of your photos? As far as cleaning cost goes, your local camera repair shop will be able to give you some estimates, prices will be different depending on where you are.

Perhaps your camera thinks you have a cinema lens attached. There is a setting that displays and records the t-stop instead of a f-stop. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t4/menu_setup/screen_set-up/index.html Scroll down to aperture unit for cinema lens. You may have to reset the camera to clear the issue or have the lens checked. Unless you are actually using a cinema lens. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum. Your external drive would need the read/copy capabilities built-in to be able to do that. Western Digital makes some of those, something such as: https://documents.westerndigital.com/content/dam/doc-library/en_us/assets/public/wd/product/external-storage/my_passport/my_passport_wireless_ssd/product-overview-my-passport-wireless-ssd.pdf Take a look at their offerings and similar ones from their competitors, hopefully you will find something that works for you. But if you are using an older style, plain hard drive, it will be difficult to do what you are asking.

No, I was not joking. Reread her post, the first sentence is “The focus mode selector button on the front of the camera has me baffled.” which is what I explained in my answer: the focus mode selector button. My CSM explanation is essentially the standard approach Fujifilm has taken for some time. Explaining the frame rate differences as I did to someone brand new to the camera seems an easier approach to understanding than saying it is 20fps vs 7fps. Not to mention, the following is how Fujifilm describes it: “Continuous AF: Focus is continually adjusted to reflect changes in the distance to the subject while the shutter button is pressed halfway. Use for subjects that are in motion” https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/taking_photo/autofocus/ You have to go to page 166 of the manual to get to a very brief explanation of CH vs CL without any context. High speed capture vs slower speed capture seems appropriate to explain so that someone that had been given the impression the top dials are needed for the csm button would realize how they work. I think it is better than saying put the csm button on S the top dial on CH and mash the shutter button — there is no example of when to use that or why. The X-T5 is a wonderful tool, but sometimes examples, humorous or otherwise, help new users understand it better when the manual does not help or when people tell new users to just leave it alone.

This switch is for your lens’ auto-focusing. ”C” tells the body to use continuous focusing, either CL (low speed - for slow moving puppies, kittens or kids) CH (high speed - for faster moving puppies, kittens or kids or anything that.moves quickly or frenetically). CH or CL is set using the top dial settings. The subject keeps moving and it may be tricky to keep trying to focus to get the photo using the standard compose / focus/ take the photo technique. ”S” is for single shot focusing, point at the subject, half press the shutter button to compose/ focus, then full press to take the photo. Or just push the shutter button to get the image if the situation is suitable. ”M” is for manual focusing, you twist the ring on the lens to set the focus as you want then press the shutter button to get the shot. The focus is entirely up to you, the camera treats the lens as if it does not have a motor in it. Okay, that is mostly true, there are some very old lenses such as the version one 14mm f2.8 lens that can be set to override this setting and autofous anyway, but Fujifilm has not used that design in many years. Note: There are many aids built into the camera to help you manually focus your shots. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/taking_photo/autofocus/ https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/taking_photo/manual-focus/ As you can guess, this switch setting does not have to completely match the top dial settings, manual exposure settings are different than manual focusing, I am surprised you were told not to mess with it. p.s. You may want to pose your questions in the dedicated X-T5 section to get quicker responses from the X-T5 users.

It seems good you were able to find an answer to your question shortly after posing it. As to your remaining question, can you give some more details? Because what you are describing is very unusual. Which card reader were you using to move the images to your computer? Were you double clicking the card’s disk image to open it and then using the finder to select all of the images you wanted to move, then dragging them over to a folder on your Mac? Did you use the eject command before removing the card from the card reader? There are a couple of things to also try. Take a few new images using a freshly formatted card, put the card in the reader. Open the app Image Capture and use it to move the photos. Use the eject command before removing the card and see it the card is still messed up. If so, try again, but this time before putting the card in the reader, slide the write protect switch on the card to the protect spot. [The write protect switch is a small little tab on the side of the card.] Move the images, then use the eject command, remove the card, slide the write protect switch back to the unlock position and put it back in the camera. Let us know how things go — uh yeah sometimes it can take a while to get an answer. https://support.apple.com/guide/image-capture/welcome/mac

Welcome to the forum. There are some sports oriented photographers that stop by now and then that may give you better tips. You did not mention your photography background, so please forgive me if I say something you already know. Practice. Practice. Practice. Your son might be happy to indulge this 😀. Set the lens to auto focus and for now, concentrate on the three basic parts, shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Set the ISO around 800 to 1600. This may seem too bright for a sunny day, but it will give you room to use the aperture and shutter speed without the scene getting dark. If the lighting is darker, use ISO 1600 to 6400. Set the f-stop on the lens to around 5.6, this should give you enough depth of field (the sharp in focus part) to get his face and most of his bike — this will also depend on how close you are to him — while blurring some of the backgound. As you get used to what this aperture does at the distance you are from him, try other settings, wide open (the smallest f-stop number) can give you very pleasing results as can f16. Remember you are focusing on him, not taking landscape photos, so the background blurring is going to be different. And the last part, shutter speed. Start around 1/400. The higher the shutter speed, the less motion blurring you get and the more the foreground will seem in focus. This is why you need the higher ISO, because higher shutter speeds will make the image go very dark. Try a bunch of the speeds. There is an art to getting the right blurring for the shot, from none at all to massively blurred. Then back to the practice part. After this, those other things on your camera are there to give you options in your approaches. You might set Auto ISO up so you can concentrate on shutter speed without worrying what rapidly changing sky clouds are doing to the images. Or how to use the back lcd as a focus aid, etc. Bring in these new options in a few at a time. Oh yeah, take the lens off auto focus mode and see how you like that, it does work.

I hope you are able to get out and see the many wonderful sights!!! Locally, weeellll, mostly we have had this during the days and something similar during the nights. Arrgh!!!😃 For completenesses sake, clouds did clear away in time for the Strawberry Full Moon and the smoke from the wildfires... The clouds are back.

Eight bit or 16 bit? It depends. If your image has tonal changes or gradients. then go with 16 bit. If the image has more solid shapes, eight bit printing may be okay in that the eye may not notice any problems in transition changes. Banding in the images is far more possible using those 8 bit TIFFs than the 14 or 16 bit files. The world has been moving towards the 16 bit world for a while now, albeit in a sort of two steps forward, one step sideways and one step backwards kind of jerky motion by way of color spaces equipment use and support. As generic monitors (screens, tv, cellphones, game consoles, etc.) support more “realism”, demand for better quality based images follows. Which approach is better for you (single shot vs multi-shot) is going to depend on your work flow. What sharpening techniques are you using? Have you tried things like high pass filters, etc. Here is a quick mention of up-scaling: https://affinity.help/photo2ipad/en-US.lproj/contents.xml?page=pages/SizeTransform/imageSize.html&title=Changing image size Lanczos 3 non-separable is supposed to give you the best results. The Lanczos 4 algorithm is better and is out there, but I am not aware of any current commercial photo image processors that offer it — that just means I do not know of any at this moment. p.s. Welcome the forum.

Welcome to the forum. What f-stop are you typically setting? F2 will cause different changes than f4 will. Also, your posting mentions you have two of the three exposure triangle parts set on auto. It sounds like the camera is adjusting mostly the shutter speed. What happens if you only set ISO to auto and manually set the shutter speed and f stop?

Welcome to the forum. For seeing your histogram, you can include it in your displays by going to the setup menu >>> screen setup >>> disp. custom settings >>> (scroll waaaay down to get to) histogram. Check the box and save the settings. This will show the histogram in the evf. To see it on the lcd, you will to push the disp./back button to switch the lcd to the custom view. Your other questions are more tricky to guess/answer. Is the maximum ISO for auto ISO set at a low limit? Beyond that, without being there on the scene and knowing what all the other shooting settings you used, any guess is just, a guess.

Welcome to the forum. That sounds like an issue for which you might want to have your local camera store / repair shop take a look at it and make sure there is not any mechanical troubles happening in the switch. It seems strange the switch will let you choose settings on either side of those two, but not let you choose those two settings.

This is getting a little confusing. There is a switch on the front of the camera labelled M-C-S which changes the focus mode between Manual, Continuous and Single shot focus mode. In C or S modes, the camera automatically focuses the lens — for lenses that can be auto-focused — while in M mode, you twist one of the lens rings to focus the lens, the camera takes the shot only for the focus you set the lens to use. After that, it is as @Greybeard is saying, aperture exposure and distance scale are not really related.

As a concept, the idea of what it is and how it can help “you” get the images “you” want is still there, and is probably still there in the back of their minds for folks who used it, but now-a-days with focus stacking, it is a concept put in the same place as the ‘sunny-16 rule’.

The so called smart adapters are pretty good about giving you very fast auto focus and putting the EXIF information into the file. Some people use other manufacturers’ lenses via the adapter to get great wildlife images, including birds in flight. One such adapter company is Fringer: https://www.fringeradapter.com There are other companies that are well regarded for their adapters, your browser’s search engine should be able to find them. @pw-pix is giving you good advice about the X-T5. It should easily handle all of the situations your message described.

You maybe seeing this in French if your browser is set to automatically translate other languages, or you are viewing the site from a place where English is not considered a default language. Normally, many of us would see the postings in English, we see your first couple of postings in French, but @pw-pix nicely translated the first one for us.

Come back and take a look again in the Fall, especially in the early misty morning. I think you will like what you see. Late afternoon will also be a treat in a different way.

Thank you for letting us know. Can you post some images of this in action?

I do not think that rubbery looking seal on the side is actually a cable channel cover, but is instead a seal. If you compare the bottom of the X-T30 to the bottom of the X-T3, https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t30/about_this_camera/parts/index.html vs https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t3/about_this_camera/parts/index.html the X-T30 has the cable channel cover but the X-T3 does not. YMMV.