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jerryy

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jerryy last won the day on June 9

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  1. Dogwoods. Dogwoods are like Poinsettias, in that the outer part (the white parts on these) are actually leaves. The flowers are the small yellow tipped green parts. Or so I have been told.
  2. Not all red filters are the same, there will be a difference, if only a slight one depending on which red filter you are thinking about. Remember these are simulations, so the camera (or raw converter) will always apply the same processing to the image, but the filter is slightly different, even each time you put it on the lens, screwing it on just a little differently each time which will affect how the light is passed to or blocked from the sensor. But it will be close. If you want some fun, find a Pentax K1000 film body ~ $200 or so on the used market, a roll or two of Fujifilm Neopan 100 Acros II film ~ $15 or so a roll and some red filters ~ usually less than $50, some much less than $50, and try it. (All prices are in U.S. dollars.) note: color filters do get used on dslrs and mirrorless cameras but their use is usually limited to specialized settings or experiments because image processing tools can duplicate the view easily.
  3. Do you have natural live view turned on? https://fujiframe.com/articles/natural-live-view That will affect what you get in the evf and lcd. p.s. Welcome to the forum.
  4. Does this: https://www.fujirumors.com/lastest-firmware-introduces-autofocus-bug-to-fujifilm-x-t5-x-h2-and-x-h2s-annoying-but-easily-fixable/ have anything to do with what you are getting? Fujirumors says a fix should be coming in the July -August time period.
  5. That camera has not been out for very long, so the usual third party sellers do not have any replacements available yet. Be very careful about trying an older NP-70 replacement, it is a slightly different battery than the NP-70S and has different voltage requirements; using the older battery type may damage your camera. Because it is so new, you may be only, for the time being, able to get replacement batteries from the Instax folks, or they would know where to direct you to be able to get them. Best wishes and welcome to the forum.
  6. In between comas... This is a region of space in between Coma Cluster and Coma Berenices. On the left is the Coma Cluster. A lot of times 'cluster' is used to name a grouping of stars, but the Coma Cluster is a grouping of galaxies. On the right is the Coma Berenices, an asterism. This one is a tale out of Egypt. Supposedly, someone bargained for their husband's safe return from a war. He came back, so she whacked her hair off and gave up the golden locks. They were placed in the stars, an eternal symbol, known to those that tell the tale. This is the equivalent of some few seconds less than 44 minutes of exposure. https://science.nasa.gov/missions/hubble/nasa-hubbles-sweeping-view-of-the-coma-cluster-of-galaxies/ https://www.underthenightsky.com/constellations/coma-berenices/ Some of the notable sights in this region include: The Needle Galaxy, NGC 4565: https://apod.nasa.gov/apod/ap240606.html The One Armed Spiral, NGC 4725: https://apod.nasa.gov/apod/ap150416.html An Intermediate spiral, NGC 4559: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NGC_4559
  7. Have you considered the many 150mm - 600mm options? Fujifilm offers one that does work with both the 1.4x and 2x tc. If you want one that has brighter f-stops, then Tamron and Sigma offer them in various mounts. You can pair them with oh, say a Fringer smart adapter (or one of Fringer’s competitor’s smart adapters) and get aperture dial control as well as having correct EXIF stored in the images. There are plenty of reports these adapters work with teleconverters, I suppose you can write the adapter’s manufacturer and ask if it matters if you use camera -> xf tc -> adapter -> lens or camera -> adapter -> native lens tc -> lens. Depending on the budget, you may be able to find a setup in the new or used market you like.
  8. Are any other settings reverted back to a default state as well on restarts? Also, are any other MF Assist options reset back to the split image state when the camera is restarted? If these happen, it could be a hardware problem, as in if the first answer is ‘yes’, the chip storing the settings or the “back-up” battery is bad. If the second answer is ‘yes’, the cell in the chip holding that setting’s storage area may be bad. Based on what you and @Greybeard are saying, it does not sound like a general firmware / software issue, it could still be a firmware issue just for this camera — the firmware update just did not install all the way.
  9. I do not have a X-T5, but I am wondering if maybe you have activated the Dual Display setup: https://jmpeltier.com/fujifilm-manual-focus-assist-modes/ scroll down to the Dual Display section. It does use a split screen approach and will let you also use focus peak mode and then go back to split screen after a restart, at least that is what the article implies anyway.
  10. You do have some options. If you want to use Apple’s Photos to take care of storing, managing the files and lightweight editing but want to also use an raw converter / editor with more “oomph”, you can do that as well: https://support.apple.com/en-us/102259 scroll down to the part about “Install Mac apps …”. Affinity Photo comes to mind: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2Zt1NDfC7E https://affinity.serif.com/en-us/photo/ DarkTable, a raw convertor also has a dam built into it, you might like it. This program has a steeper learning curve than Photos does, but it is very powerful: https://www.darktable.org If you are inclined to do a little more asset management yourself, RawTherapee or Fujifilm’s Raw Converter are pretty good: https://rawtherapee.com https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/products/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/ p.s. Welcome to the forum.
  11. I believe you are looking at the X-T3 manual instead of the X-T5 manual. X-T5: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/about_this_camera/parts/ See parts 4 and 19, which are the shutter speed dial (4) and the Still/Movie mode dial (19). X-T3: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t3/about_this_camera/parts/index.html Same numbers, but (19) is the Metering dial. p.s. Welcome to the forum.
  12. Perhaps try a different brand of sensor wipes and fluid. (Uh, I am not not trying to start a brand wars discussion, so I will just use the term different brand.) Once upon a time a bug flew down my telescope and landed on the sensor and left a trail where it walked around that looked similar to what you are seeing. The trail only showed at certain f-stops. I could not get it cleaned off after using a lot of wipes and fluid. My local camera store person recommended trying a different brand. One pass with a dry swab (the usual approach for the new brand) and one pass with fluid and the mark was gone. I did use more pressure on the swabs than before. If the mark is on the sensor or on the inside of the protective glass, it would have been there from the start. This will need a trip to the service center to fix, but it can be fixed.
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