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jerryy last won the day on October 20

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  1. No, perhaps I was not clear. Just about the only thing that keeps you from using es is having a flash unit attached. I regularly use electronic shutter with very long exposures when I am outdoors, it saves wear and tear on the mechanical shutter. So something else is going on. Try a full reset and see if that clears it up as well as making sure you have the latest firmware installed. Having tethering would be nice, but Fujifilm seems to have saved that for the X-T3, X-T4, etc.
  2. That is odd, there are very few other settings that limit using es. Having a flash unit attached is one, but I would have thought that would also keep you from using ms+es. Mines does this: Have you upgraded to the most recent firmware? This may sound drastic, have you copied you settings down somewhere and tried a full reset?
  3. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t30/menu_shooting/shooting_setting/index.html Scroll down to Shutter Type. It is in the shooting menus setup, you can choose between manual shutter, electronic shutter or both together.
  4. Blackbird Murmurations - 4 4 of 4
  5. Blackbird Murmurations - 3 3 of 4
  6. Venus and the Falling Leaves Moon When this new moon grows up it will be called the Hunter's Full Moon or the Falling leaves Moon.
  7. Blackbird Murmurations - 2 2 of 4
  8. Once you have the camera setup as Greybeard describes, turn it off, connect it using an appropriate USB cable to your Mac. Turn the camera on. Look in the applications folder for a program called Image Capture, start it going. Your camera should be in the list of devices Image Capture can download images from the camera. Note: depending on which version of macOS you are running, you may have have to tell the security settings that it is okay to import from the camera. This is due to Apple’s general security settings not Fujifilm’s stuff. If you do not allow the computer to “trust” the camera, things get tricky. https://support.apple.com/guide/image-capture/transfer-images-imgcp1003/mac
  9. It is also called the flange distance, which for the X-Mount system is 17.7mm (17,7mm). One common distance other systems use is 55mm.
  10. Blackbird Murmurations - 1 1 of 4
  11. Okay, that makes it clearer, the way you wrote about no countdown sounded like you wanted it to act as a countdown timer before snapping a photo, which is an entirely different thing. T Mode should start click right away, but stay open for the length you set. Did you buy this one used? Have you updated the firmware to the latest version? It sounds like there are a couple of things that may broken. If you got this body new, you may find it worthwhile to get the dealer to check it over while it is still under warranty. p.s. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2/taking_photo/shooting_mode/index.html Just to double check, you do have it in one of the p, s, a, m shooting modes? It sounds like you do, but sometimes one of the dials jumps into a position it should not.
  12. T Mode stands for timed mode, how long you want the shutter to be open. You need to set it to a time. Usually you use one of the dials, front or back, to set the time you wish to use. T mode is a long exposure setup without needing to use a remote shutter release in B Mode or dig through the menus to set up interval shooting. It sounds like it is working correctly, it is just using the baked in default time. Once you set the time, and press the shutter button, it should go click and take a timed-length photo, then shut the shutter, you should hear another click as the shutter closes. Using a remote release allows you to take a second to let any vibrations in your tripod to settle, and then trip the shutter without causing new vibrations. You can also dig in the menus to set up interval timed shooting with only a few shots, you can set an interval between the shots as well as a ‘wait before starting’ time.
  13. That does sound a bit odd, it could be a one time glitch or due to how much the lighting conditions changed while you were working on the image, even big stoppers can let in a lot more light for a moderate change in lighting conditions. (You initially mention two concerns, what was the second one?) Try this, repeat the setup, taking a shot with nr turned on and go through the full process) Turn it off and take a shot. Turn it back on and see if the shot time jumps way back up again, all the while making sure to note the lighting changes. On a related note, there is a way to get the same value of using nr via your image processing software (GIMP, Affinity Photo, Photoshop, etc., any of those that support layers with blend modes). Take your shots with nr turned off, then put the lens cap on, take a shot using the exact same parameters as you used for your regular images.— same time, iso, f-stop, etc.. Bring both the regular image and the cap-on image into your processor as layers, the stacking order will depend on your software, but it will typically be with the cap-on image above the regular image. Set the blend mode for the cap-on layer to “subtract”. This will remove hot pixels, etc. from your regular image just like the in-camera method does. But you save a lot of very valuable time while you are on site. The drawback to this is that you need to do this before you turn the camera off after taking the image set, and also take one now and then as you are going if the camera is left on for very long times. One other thing to note, if you are going to change any of the iso or time settings etc., you need to take a on-cap image before making changes to the settings.
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