jerryy

You. may get a better answer posting your question in one of the forums related to the camera body you have. If you have a recent camera body, you can go to the menu for pc connection and choose usb card reader, save the choices, and restart the camera after plugging the cable into your computer. You can then use Apple’s built-in Camera Import software to copy the files to your drive. Or get a usb card reader, put the sd card in it, connect the reader to your computer and use the finder to copy the files.

Not really a tetraptych, not really a panorama, but along those lines... (part two)

Not really a tetraptych, not really a panorama, but along those lines... (part one)

Among the various lens and camera settings it also records beyond just the sensor data, the raw file includes the film simulation information you use for your jpeg files large image and preview sizes (embedded thumbnail). Some raw converters use this to give you an initial idea of what the image looks like. Depending on which converter you have, you can change that film simulation, but the jpeg thumbnail removal is not recommended because the other converters cannot open the file without that preview information.

River bottom flowers (part two):

River bottom flowers (part one):

It depends on your budget, (like everything else I suppose ). Really Right Stuff makes a l plate which is pretty good but does not, for some reason, have the grip piece: https://www.adorama.com/rrsbxt30lset.html Fotga makes a decent one that does include the grip piece and is lower in price, but for some reason has only been selling via eBay -- you have to import it rom China now. Both of these companies sell true l-brackets (arca style) that you can mount in either portrait or landscape mode, you are able to get the node point correct for panorama shots. And you are able to get to the battery as well as the USB ports etc. while the plate is on the camera. Keep in mind if you find l brackets for the X-T10 or X-T20, these will also work for the X-T30 because the base is the same on all of the bodies.

According to the electronic version of that white block of paper that came in the box, page 196 tells you the grid line option choices and page 198 opines that the custom settings menu has a framing guideline display setting that can be toggled on/off. But there is no easy way, yet, to assign editing the custom display setup menu to a function button.

Look at the switch on the front of the camera body, it needs to be set to either ‘s’ or ‘c’ to be able to change the af settings If it is set to ‘m’ then your camera thinks you are using manual focusing, so it disables that part of the menu.

If you are using a Mac, Affinity’s Develop module will open the .RAF files using your choice of either Apple’s raw engine or Affinity’s raw engine, which you can then export as a .TIFF or or as a .PSD file that Photoshop should open. I do not know how many raw engine choices the Windows Affinity version has.

Lighter fluid huh, ... Have you considered Affinity Photo?

It sounds like you need to get a newer version of Adobe’s DNG converter. Even if you have the latest version, sometimes things go awry and you have to delete the whole thing and re-install it.