jerryy

Welcome to the forum. Unless the boat gets very close to the whales, wider angle lenses probably will not be all that useful. For the choices you listed, that 70 - 300 mm gets a lot of good reviews and as you note, can be used with the 1.4x tc. Do you think you may be able to get the 100-400mm or the 150-600mm in the near future (assuming good weather and bright skies)? Another option is to rent or borrow another body, put a wider angle lens on it and keep it close by while you use the longer lens. Then, if you want some landscape style shots or the whales do get close, you have it ready to go.

From your description it sounds like this problem has not been completely fixed yet. https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/global-news/2023/1122_4235161/ Apple made some changes, and fixes to those changes are taking a (long) while to get out to the public. The article has a link that lists some pssible work-arounds. Possible means they also may not work. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

For what it is worth, welcome to the forum. I do not know any menu setting that flips the view-mode upside down like you are showing here. Your local camera store may be able to repair this for you. Best wishes.

The new approach from SmallRig and soon-to-be-released by Viltrox of putting a USB-C connector in the battery and plugging the charge cable into the battery looks like it is catching on. It sounds like it might be holding up long term. FujiRumors has an article about batteries, but only in-directly touches on the approach. https://www.fujirumors.com/viltrox-np-w235-orders-available-now/

On the lens there is a switch that has one side marked with an “A”, the other side marked with a ‘circular’ graphic that is supposed to represent setting the aperture by way of using the lens’ aperture ring. Make sure the switch is not set to the “A” side. You might need to move the switch back and forth a few times to make sure it is not stuck. Next make sure the camera is not in Program Mode and not in Shutter Priority Mode, that is, set it to be in either fully Manual Mode or Aperture Priority Mode — your manual should be able to help you do this. Rotate the aperture ring and you should see the f-stop number change in the display. If this does not work, you may have a dirty contact that is not letting the ring pass information back to the camera, while these are easy enough to clean, maybe have the dealer take a look to make sure nothing else is wrong. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

That is Some Bull! The Hyades and More. The Hyades Cluster are up in the Northern Hemisphere's night sky, this time of year. Their v-shape usually is easy enough to find, not just in binoculars, but by looking up in the night sky, not too far away from their sisters in the sky and mythology, the Pleiades. Greek mythology has different tales about the Hyades, one sad. one happy. Other cultures tell different tales. The v-shape seen here is called the Face of the Bull, Taurus, the big yellow-orange-red star Aldebaran is the Eye of Taurus. Aldebaran, though, is not actually part of the Hyades, it is much closer to the Earth and just visually lines up in photos. NGC 1647 is called the Pirates Moon Cluster. The LdN- listings are from (Beverly) Lynds Catalog of Dark Nebulae. The Sh2- listings are from (Stewart) Sharpless' Catalog of Emission Nebulae. The nebulae shown here, are all part of the Taurus Molecular Cloud, the star forming region - a stellar nursery, that is closest to the Earth. This is the exposure equivalent of 51 minutes, 15 seconds. Taurus: https://www.space.com/17101-taurus-constellation.html Aldebaran: https://earthsky.org/brightest-stars/aldebaran-is-taurus-bloodshot-eye/ https://earthsky.org/favorite-star-patterns/v-shaped-hyades-star-cluster-easy-to-find/ https://skyandtelescope.org/observing/happy-nights-with-the-hyades/

When you click (double-click) on a data type of file, your computer’s operating system tries to decide which program should be ran to work with that data. If the system cannot decide, it starts up a program it thinks may be able to use the data. In your case, the computer squinted at the file (the name ends in .dat, meaning it is some kind of data file) crossed its fingers and toes, muttered under its breath and opened an editing program hoping that would be okay. Usually, in the now-a-days computer world, clicking (double clicking) a file will be all you need to do to get an attached device to work. Cameras are standalone devices, so getting them updated from a computer would be tricky because there are so many different computer operating systems out in the world, Linux, macOS, Windows, etc., etc. Having update installers for each computer type is a lot of work. It may seem clunky to use the ‘put the data on a card, and let the camera do the work’ approach, but the approach is much easier and less error prone overall.

Because of time zone differences, @Greybeard might not be seeing your post until later. You do not need to click on the file, doing that will not cause it to update your camera. The basic idea is you put the sd card in the card reader which is connected to your computer, copy the file to the card (drag and drop it onto the card icon). put the card back into the camera, turn the camera on while holding down certain buttons. Doing that sequence will start the process going. Here are specific instructions: https://fujifilm-x.com/global/support/download/procedure-x-interchangeable-ver2/ And with that, @Greybeard should eventually be back, I believe there is some sort of holiday going in in his home country at the moment, so see if the instructions make sense. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

In that case, there are plenty of camera shops selling flash units that work with the X-T4, if you decide to use one in your project. KEH, Adorama, MPB, BHPhotovideo, etc, etc. Your local camera shop should be able to help you as well.

December 22, Winter Solstice Day. Winter is getting ready to make the days longer, the nights shorter and presumably both colder. Autumn was seen at a postal office trying to take care of a forwarding address issue.

For astrophotography, you may be taking many hundreds or thousands of images at a time depending on what you are doing. That puts a lot of stress on mechanical shutters, they wear out fast under those conditions. Dedicated astro-cams pretty much are ES only. Also, once the focal length gets past 100mm or so, in long exposures, any kind of ‘camera shake’ ruins an image, blurring fine details, — mechanical shutters do have some shake, ever so slight as it may be. It would be fantastic if Fujifilm would give us longer ES times, maybe a minute or so.

Welcome to the forum. You do not mention which country you live in, so you may not be able to find some commercially sold flashes that are available in other places. I believe you will be able to get better results using a light tent with constant lighting than you will get using a flash. They are relatively inexpensive as well. But here goes: https://www.cameraegg.org/best-flash-for-fujifilm-x-t4/ https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/accessories/Flashes--Accessories-for-the-FUJIFILM-X-T4-Kit-Silver/1602231-REG-48200 For some tips: https://www.iphotography.com/blog/flash-photography-tutorial/ https://shotkit.com/flash-photography/ Please read this next one: https://digital-photography-school.com/photographing-artwork-tips/

I may have missed something, but after reading through the settings listing, I do not think it is possible. Eight-bit HDMI is an older standard, I am guessing newer cameras dropped support for it. You may have some good results with a converter: https://www.reddit.com/r/FilmDIT/comments/rukd94/does_anyone_have_a_recommendation_about_devices/ But, …., it may be less expensive to upgrade to a recently released field monitor that supports newer standards. edit: HDMI v2.0 is the minimum standard that supports 10-bit bit-depth, so avoid monitors that only support HDMI v1.4.

This is just a guess, but the specifications for that monitor say it only supports 8-bit bit-depth. Most of the video outputs for the X-T3 are set to support 10-bit bit-depth. Try using the H.264 codecs, with the same frame rates, etc. and see if you get an image. edit: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t3/technical_notes/spec/index.html H.264: SD card, 4∶2∶0, 8-bit/HDMI output, 4∶2∶2, 10-bit edit, edit: Welcome to the forum.