jerryy

Guiding Lights... This is the equivalent of a 40 second exposure. Knowing where you are while traveling in the Northern Hemisphere these days is fairly easy if you have the comforts modern technology offers. GPS based maps rendered in nice colors on tablets and phones or standalone devices give you your location almost instantaneously. It used to be though, one used a compass based map (or some other vague directions) and at night, the North Star. But if you were traveling in southern directions, lining the North Star with your route could be troublesome. Not to worry, there is a star called Fomalhaut ("The Lonely Star") that does the job almost as well as Polaris (the North Star) does. 1) Neptune: https://solarsystem.nasa.gov/planets/neptune/overview/ 2) Saturn: https://solarsystem.nasa.gov/planets/saturn/overview/ 3) Fomalhaut: https://earthsky.org/brightest-stars/solitary-fomalhaut-guards-the-southern-sky/

I should mention it is possible to use CLUTs (color lookup tables) or just LUTs directly in Photoshop, so you may have some good fortune trying that. But I should also mention I have not used Adobe's software in some time, so I cannot really give you much in the way of help for doing that beyond saying that it is possible. https://photoshopcafe.com/use-luts-photoshop-install-luts-photoshop/ LUTs are similar to simulations, so if you find sources that give you the look you want, you should be able to directly use them in PS and LR. (LUTs are camera specific, so you need to find a source for GFX-100s LUTs). If you want to use your computer instead of your camera to do the conversions, Fujifilm also has the free Raw Converter software that will let you apply the simulations as you wish and export files either as TIFF or jpgs. [Some folks are going to claim this is heresy and you will be better off using LR and C1, so be it.] You can grab a copy at: https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/products/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/

Strictly staying only in the Adobe system may be tricky. There is a way to stay “close” though by only adding one step in the conversion process. Grab a copy of Fujifilm’s X Raw Studio and use it to convert the raw .RAF image to a TIFF image and import that back into the Adobe software. X Raw Studio connects to the camera and uses the camera’s hardware to convert the image instead of using your computer to do so, so the result should be as close as possible to an exact match for the raw + jpg images you are currently getting. User guide: https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/stories/fujifilm-x-raw-studio-features-users-guide/ X Raw Studio is free, that link also lets you download it as well as giving you the installation instructions. Here is an article (a bit long-winded) about Fujifilm’s simulations: https://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2020/08/18/fujifilm-film-simulations-definitive-guide If you ever decide to venture outside of the Adobe / C1 worlds, apps such as DarkTable and RawTherapee do give you pretty good conversions. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Jefferson County, Kentucky, USA

Jefferson County, Kentucky, USA

Perhaps you can show us an example or two where Sony's cameras have been transferring very high bit rate 4k data over b / g / n WiFi networks in real time to smartphone and tablets. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Try CablesToGo --> Select USB-c cables, then choose the connector type (USB Micro) https://www.cablestogo.com/ Monoprice ( https://www.monoprice.com ) also carries cables, they may have one.

Welcome to the forum.

As long as the lens itself is good, the only difference would be the adapter you use to mount the lens to the body. Usually the manufacturers' list the compatibilities on their sites. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Give Exposure Bracketing a try. It is the AE Bracketing in the menu: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t30/taking_photo/bracketing/index.html This link might explain the options better: https://timelyphoto.com/blog/2021/fujifilm-exposure-bracketing-and-hdr p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Well, perhaps…. It takes a lot of processor time getting auto focus to work well, most of the companies do a decent job and do show good improvements in each new body generation they release. That you are able to see some of what you are trying to get shows that. But body makers mostly concentrate on doing that with their own lenses, it is up to the third party lens makers to keep up with changes and update their own firmware. p.s. There are also some issues concerning constant aperture vs variable aperture lenses as well. p.p.s. Morris, a person on another forum uses zone focusing and subject detection on his XH2 for birding. Quite successfully, given shots he posts. You might try his settings for AF-C to make sure your lens works well before trying to add zooming into the mix, AF-C is extra demanding on its own. https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1772910/0

It is not really an issue with the AF system per-se. For that type of work you need a parfocal lens, which tends to be a little more expensive to build. A lot of lenses are instead based on the less expensive to build varifocal design. https://www.studiobinder.com/blog/what-is-a-parfocal-lens-definition/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parfocal_lens On their product page for this particular lens, Sigma does not mention which type of design they use for the lens, but based on your description, it sounds like it is varifocal.

Woodford County, Kentucky, USA

You may have seen waterfall images or ocean or lake images with silky smooth water. Those are made using long exposures, but depending on the time of day, there may be too much light -- the image will blow out before you can get the water flow just right. A ND filter cuts back the light amount hitting the sensor, so you can leave the shutter open longer. You can also take images during the brightest day time without worrying all that glare or harsh light will ruin the image, some images do not do so well cranking the shutter speed up as high as the camera will let you (this is called the digital camera effect) -- ND filters let you get the shot at more reasonable shutter speeds and f-stops. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neutral-density_filter https://petapixel.com/nd-filter/

Since you are not wanting a variable ND filter, it will be tricky to justify just one filter without adding in so many, many disclaimers that you might end up spending more time reading the disclaimers than being out using the gear. 😀 Try a light weight, a medium and a hard core big stopper type. That is three, but you will have a versatile set to start and be able to build depending on the type of images you want and the lighting you encounter. Note: That CPL will help you in a pinch. Also Note: Be very careful to read reviews looking for any hints of color casts, you will be far better off trying a different brand, even if it costs a bit more than trying to remove the cast in your editor. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Open your “final” image in the Preview app and re-export it: https://support.apple.com/guide/preview/welcome/mac scroll down to the “Convert … “ section.

Have you tried shooting without the grip to see how many images you get? p.s. Welcome to the forum to you (and RolandP). p.p.s. You may end up having to send the camera and grip in to the service center, but in the mean time trying to trouble shoot things without knowing what you and your dealer have tried can turn into generic approaches: 1.) The body, only, has issues. Try the camera with a full battery and see how long it lasts. 2.) The grip, only, has issues. Try a different grip with full batteries. 3,) The batteries themselves have troubles. You may have received dud batteries, or counterfeit batteries — these look really close to OEM batteries but are fakes that do not last as long. Also, some third party batteries do not last very long. 4,) Some combination of the above, but you will most likely need to ‘put the gear on the bench’ and test all the connections, hence either take it to a camera repair shop or send it in to Fujifilm and let them work it over in their back room until they fix it.

Either that or the top left dial is set to Adv1 or Adv2.

Milky Way in July... Smoke from various wildfires has cleared out a bit. Earth's trek around the Sun (an ellipse) has tilted a bit from earlier, making the Milky Way seem like it rises vertically, a disc in the night sky. This is equivalent to 2 and 1/2 minutes exposure time.

As I recall, sometimes with HDMI based devices, there can be compatibility issues due to the copy protection part not being correctly handled — that is, one device does not think the other device is “legal” and will refuse to work. Normally this does not happen with cameras and monitors, but for devices where it does, a lot of times, it takes trying several different cables to get things to work. I am not sure why the cable usually is at fault, but swapping it may reset the protection circuitry.