jerryy

This might help or make things worse: https://fstoppers.com/astrophotography/compare-four-ultra-wide-angle-fast-aperture-aps-c-prime-lenses-622553 I am not sure why they stuck the article in their astro section, very little of the article is about astro.

Summer Swan... Starting in late summer, say late August or early September, the Cygnus Constellation is directly overhead ("Just Look Up") for folks in the Northern Hemisphere. As is usually the case with constellations, there are differing cultural views and fanciful tales about things going on in the skies. https://www.space.com/cygnus-constellation.html https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cygnus_(constellation) https://www.constellation-guide.com/constellation-list/cygnus-constellation/ edit: This is the equivalent of 19 minutes of exposure.

There is a section in the setup menus that gives you various options for manual focus assist. It looks like you have one of these turned on. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x100v/taking_photo/manual-focus/index.html p.s. welcome to the forum.

ExifTool can do what you are asking for. https://exiftool.org It is very powerful, so be careful. You might also look for EXIF editors in your favorite app store, many of these let you batch modify information, but prices vary as the saying goes.

On that lens, there are a couple of switches, one turns OIS on or off. The other switch has two markings, one is A and the other marking looks sort of like a shutter. Sometimes, this switch sticks, so make sure it is definitely moved to the shutter icon side (Move it back and forth a few times to make sure it moves freely.). Once it is in place, you should be able to change the aperture by turning the ring and have the changes listed in the evf or lcd. If the switch is on the A side, the camera controls the aperture and you will not be able to change the setting. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Beautiful! More please. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Jefferson County, Kentucky, USA

Part of what you are seeing is due to macOS’ ever increasing suspicion of USB connected devices. The operating system is being set to make it more difficult to connect things and have them accidentally take over your computer. Once it decides the camera is okay, it will gradually let Acquire and the camera chat with each other. The world we live in.

There is an alternative that may help. During the day time, take your gear to a place where you can sort of see things far, far, far away in the distance. Get a couple of shots focused on that object. Make a mark on the “focuser”, (you did not say whether you are using a camera lens or a telescope). Then at night, take a bunch of shots focused at that mark. Move the focuser one notch below the mark and get a bunch more shots. Move the focuser to one notch above the mark and take more shots. Move these over to your computer and see which set gives you round, small stars. If it is the set from the mark, you are pretty much good to go, during regular sessions, focus at the mark and get lots of good images. One thing to keep in mind, if the temperature changes several degrees, or you are aiming 60 degrees (or more) above the horizon, you may get focus breathing, so check now and then.

Wow, that is an old Bayer sensor range-finder type camera. Range-finder cameras are not the best for astro-photography, but you may be able to get it working. Do you have a smart phone or tablet? Try using the Fujifilm Camera Remote app to use the A1’s wifi to transfer a shot over to your phone/tablet which should let you zoom in further than the lcd will. This method requires some patience to get it to work, but once you do, it gives usable results. https://app.fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/camera_remote/usage/live_view/index.html If you do not get results you like, or as an alternative, The X-A1 has a USB port which you can use to upload images to a “cheap” laptop and zoom in as far as the laptop’s software will let you. Again, patience, patience and practice. I use a version of these for plate-solving and focus checking with more recently made cameras. I hope you are able to make something work. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Messier and Messier and Messier... Smoke from wildfires has cleared some more. Locally, it is getting late in the season for seeing these nebulas, they are dropping closer and closer to the horizon this time of year, but they should be visible for a while yet, especially in the more southern latitudes. This is the equivalent of just under 25 minutes of exposure. The Lagoon Nebula, Messier Object M8: https://www.nasa.gov/feature/goddard/2017/messier-8-the-lagoon-nebula The Trifid Nebula, Messier Object M20: https://www.nasa.gov/feature/goddard/2017/messier-20-the-trifid-nebula Webb's Cross Star Cluster, Messier Object M21: https://www.messier-objects.com/messier-21/

The only real concern with the X-T3 is how much “used” it is, unless you have managed to locate a new one (these are in short supply these days). You have @Greybeard speaking up for the X-S line, so I will speak up for the X-T line. 😇 They are fun! You have all those easy to use dials (no need to mess around with that SPAM dial and menus stuff). The best camera is the one you take with you and use. If you can, try these in your local shop or rent them for a few days and see which one suits you. Processing software for stills and video is easy to find, so test the hardware.

Does anything in this article help? https://www.whatthefuji.com/fujifilm-xapp/

Praying Mantis (Mantodea)

1) Yes, that is how it works, otherwise there is no need for the app. You should be able to control other settings such as shutter speed, f stop, etc. by clicking on those icons lower down in the app, as long as it is not a manual lens. 2a) You should be able to see all of the images you took while using the app, these are stored on the card, so you are seeing some of what is on the card. 2b) Seeing every image on the card including the ones not taken using the app or while using the card in another camera is more suited for the image transfer apps. Doing that in this app would mean sending potentially a lot more info back and forth between the camera and the app which, if you are using a large card, could really bog things down. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

I also use the Canon version with a Tamron 150-600 f6.3, it is nice and smooth.

There is a person that goes by the user name Morris posting on another site that uses this very combination to get really good wildlife images. He explains his setup here: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1772910 p.s. Welcome to the forum. p.p.s. This might interest you as well: https://www.fujirumors.com/sigma-23mm-f-1-4-and-sigma-100-400mm-f5-0-6-3-for-fujifilm-x-officially-announced-reviews-and-pre-orders/

It is far more likely something that was overlooked rather than being deliberately sacrificed. These camera are computers connected to lenses, anticipating every outcome to every option is hard to do even when the number of options is very limited. Every camera manufacturer issues firmware update to fix unforeseen issues. Fujifilm does listen to requests and feedback. Today, they updated their X-App, the app for controlling some cameras from smartphones and tablets. The update removed needing Location always on. This is something many people requested. Depending on which region you live in, Fujifilm lists ways to contact them. If you dig far enough, you can find the contact information for each region, including Japan, here is one for U.S. based customers: https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/repair-and-product-support/#contact_us Try writing a letter explaining the issue, along with a means to fix it (have a menu option to turn it on or off) that lets everyone use it as they wish. If enough people raise the issue, making changes gains priority over other options. I suggest politeness; conspiracy laden rants, regardless of how well intentioned or fact based, will not get your message warm receptions.

So? If you do just that, point the camera, look through the view finder and get the rough idea the camera is pointed in the right direction, push the rear command dial, you get the zoomed (magnified) view, focus to your heart’s content and then half press the shutter button. As I mentioned, the magnified (zoomed) view goes back to full size view. The focus is set, it should not change any more or less in the few moments you take to re-check the composition and then get the shot. This is the basic focus and recompose technique only using a manual focus lens instead of an auto focus lens. The shutter half press clears the extraneous displayed items except, in your X-T5’s case, the still present peak highlight dancing dots. Those dancing dots being there are not going to change the focus, so you should be able to get the shot. This is close to what you asked for in your initial posting. Do you really think that some group of folks are sitting around maliciously plotting ways to mess up the lives of the people they are depending on to buy their products? Especially with such excellent products being released by their competitors? Maybe take a break and get some air, your postings read like ranting from the person sitting at the corner table muttering into their drinks and every now and then yelling out at the sky.

Some folks prefer using the rear command dial to cycle through the MF Assist choices instead of scrolling through set-up menus. That method has been available for many camera bodies for a very long time, it works that way on my X-T10. Are you not able to, In manual focus mode, focus zoom, fine tune things and then half press the shutter button to zoom back to the full screen and get the shot? The X-T5 offers even more ways to do this than does older bodies. Or, not able to use any of the older film camera methods outlined here?: https://www.jmpeltier.com/fujifilm-manual-focus-assist-modes/ Macro shooters got together and lobbied to get a change that helped them, it does have a (perhaps unintended, unanticipated — beta testers do not catch everything) consequence on others, people it affects can also lobby to get changes as well.

Yes, yes you can, either through turning it off in the MF Assist set-up menu or by repeatedly long pressing the rear command dial to cycle through the MF assist options — the “off” option will either be called off or standard depending on which camera body you have.

Nice! Welcome to the forum.

You should be able find local sites that carry Fotodiox gear as well as Fringer gear. Or use your search engine to find Canon EF to Fujifilm XF adapter. Look up at the top for the link called Classified. It is a buy - sell section. I have not used it, but I have read other members saying it is easy to use. Best wishes.

Welcome to the forum. I believe that lens was / is built to mount on Canon EF mount bodies as a manual focus lens. You may be able to get it to mount (and work) on your X-T4 with a Canon EF to Fujifilm X Mount adapter. Fotodiox and Fringer, as well as other companies sell these, try to find one that passes the electrical contact information from the lens to the body — so that you can control the aperture and get the EXIF shot information. If you do not wish to try that, Zeiss sells lenses built specifically for Fujifilm X mount bodies, the line is called Zeiss Touit, there are several in that line. They are a little pricey.