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Astigmatism last won the day on June 12

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  1. If I want to send the camera display output to an HDMI monitor, for example for composing shots on a larger screen, are there any particular requirements for that monitor? Aspect ratio, pixel count, physical size, version, anything like that? If it matters, I'm thinking of an X-T4 and also an X-T30 ii. I understand this is supposed to duplicate the camera display on the external monitor, whether shooting, playback, in menu system, whatever -- have I got that right? Thanks!
  2. Why is there a "PREVIEW DEPTH OF FIELD" function? I am ALWAYS seeing the effect of the DoF. As I turn the aperture ring I see more or less blur on things not at the focused distance. In fact, if I turn the camera round, I also see the blades of the aperture stop move in and out as I turn the ring. What does the function change? Seems like nothing, as far as I have been able to notice. If it matters, this is on an X-T4 with a Fuji 35 f/1.4 lens. Thanks!
  3. I bought it! It feels bigger and works much better in my hands. I REALLY like the dials on top. An unanticipated change: the Q button on the X-T30 is too easy to activate accidentally where it is on top of the best place for my right thumb. It's in a much better spot on the X-T4. I haven't found anything that I prefer about the X-T30 so far, I prefer the X-T4; except one occasional thing -- if I want something compact the X-T30 is smaller. However, I usually want something larger. So, being able to go back and forth is nice, and if I had to choose just one I'd choose the X-T4. It would have been nice if they stuck with one battery choice, but I bit the bullet and therefore have two kinds of battery chargers and a couple extra of two kinds of battery. It's a minor thing. As to IBIS, well, I only just got the camera and haven't done any comparison on this yet. Thanks for the help!
  4. Here's what I know is important, if I understand the two cameras correctly (and my uncertainties): Bigger body (right? does it FEEL bigger?) ISO dial on top (and yes I use large indicators mode sometimes) Maybe IBIS (is it a noticeable improvement on my OIS lenses?) And I don't know what else. For example I didn't know there were cameras with both mechanical and electronic shutter options until I got the X-T30, and now I like that. There may be other things I don't know about that are X-T4 advantages. That's something I'm trying to discover. So, what differences have you noticed between the two, or between the other similar branches of the product number tree? Jerry, that's pretty neat, about accessing in-between shutter speeds! Great example of something I didn't know about that I'd appreciate.
  5. I have the X-T30 ii and absolutely love the dials for shutter speed and aperture (R lenses). That's what got me started on Fuji. I don't like a lot of automation and rarely use any auto exposure modes. I'm toying with the idea of getting an X-T4. What would be the biggest differences? Having an ISO knob on top would be a big plus, in my book. I configured both front and rear dials on the X-T30 for ISO but find it's fiddly trying to see that respond through the viewfinder. The X-T4 looks physically larger, is that right? I'd find that much easier to handle with clumsy hands. The IBIS would be helpful sometimes I assume. I'm guessing image quality would be the same (except where IBIS made a difference), right? What else would feel different about it? Or -- is it much smarter to wait for an X-T5? Rumors suggest that's a good half a year away....
  6. How do the two different kinds of image stabilization work if you use a body with IBIS and a lens with OIS? Does one of them simply switch off? Or do the two cooperate in some way that works even better? I have several lenses with OIS that are amazing. I use them on an X-T30 ii. But I'm toying with the idea of getting an X-T4. Thanks!
  7. Also, as I look on Amazon for tripods with Arca type mount, it appears that the tripods typically assume the Arca rail will be parallel to the optical axis, whereas the grip I bought puts the rail perpendicular to the axis. I think with most of the tripods I just saw, when I'm holding the control lever, the camera will be looking right or left, not forward. Am I misunderstanding? Thanks!!
  8. Yes, thank you, the more I look at the problem the more I think this is the best way to go. I bought the "Fujifilm MHG-XT10 Metal Hand Grip" and it fits perfectly and solves various little issues. So I think my next step is to buy a tripod head or an entire tripod with integral head. I like the pan type as opposed to the ball type, and wouldn't rule out a gimbal or geared head if they're not too costly. But again I read that there are some designs of the Arca type that are incompatible with some plates. So my question is: Are there any major brands of Arca style head or tripod that are INCOMPATIBLE with the "Fujifilm MHG-XT10 Metal Hand Grip" that you can warn me about??? Big big thanks!!
  9. Great thought provoking thread! My vote: If you like primes: You kind of have to get a macro, so, the 80 mm f/2. You want a fast middle length lens, so, the 35 f/1.4. You need wide, and the wider the better (you can always crop), so, the 14 f/2.8 And something long. I guess the 200 mm f/2, but it sure is expensive. I prefer primes and have all the lenses above, but not the 200, as it would break my bank. If, like me, you don't mind a zoom, you could substitute the 100-400 mm f/4.5-5.6 for the 200. It is expensive but several times less so than the 200. That's what I did. I don't think long zooms suffer as much pincushion/barrel as the wide zooms do, though I'm not sure and haven't tested this. If you want two zooms, substitute the 18-135 mm f/3.5-5.6 for the 35. I have this zoom and I really like it as a do-anything lens. Though, it's pretty hefty. If you are happy with adding close up lenses instead of having a macro, you could drop the macro and add the 50 mm f/1.0, which is just fast fast fast. It can really narrow the depth of field, much more so than any of the above. I have this lens and it's amazing. But it's heavy and costly! And it's big in diameter close to the camera, which means my camera only fits on my tripod pointed in one direction (which happens to cooperate well with the knob levers on the tripod).
  10. My XT-30 won't sit on my old Bogen Manfrotto tripod with some lenses. I just got a very fun Lensbaby Obscura and the head is quite a few millimeters too wide for the camera to sit on it without the lens prying it up, no matter which way I point it. My 50 mm f/1.0 will fit but only in some orientations. I never notice tripod head dimensions in ads. And I don't especially want to commit to some proprietary mount system (even if it does fit, which I sometimes hear they won't do). How to shop for tripods with small head dimensions? Note, the threads in all cases I'm thinking of are 1/4-20, it's the dimensions of the flat mounting surfaces that are the issue. Thanks!!
  11. Hey, great answer! It took a little more force than I expected but seeing your photos and reading your description gave me the confidence to go ahead with it. I really appreciate you taking the trouble jerryy!
  12. There's a "cable channel cover for DC coupler" along one short edge of the battery chamber cover. It's item 36 in the Parts of the Camera illustration on page 3 of the manual. I bought a CP-W126 DC coupler, which has an end that looks like the battery and slides into its place. But how do you remove the cable channel cover? It is obviously a separate part. It's a lighter color than the battery chamber cover, and it's not quite as hard. I studied it under a magnifier and it seems to have little tabs and ledges that would prevent moving it in any direction. Do you force it? In which direction? Thanks!
  13. Here's the final result. It took Focus Stacker an hour and a half.
  14. No photo to post yet, it's processing! I bought Focus Stacker for my iMac and have only dabbled. This morning is my time for trying new stuff. I'm shooting with the 80 f/2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro on an X-T30 II, shooting at f/4, using focus bracketing in manual mode. Dang -- I normally set shutter speed manually, had the exposure meter centered on its scale, and then discovered the shutter speed knob was accidentally set between the A and the 4000, EXIF reports 1/105 s. My subject is a found coil spring 35 mm in diameter and 50 mm long, which was buried in the yard and is very heavily rusted with rich rusty shades and texture. Its closest point is 60 mm from the front of the lens hood. I find 227 steps at the most coarse step size setting of 10 covers the entire spring. Scrolling through the photos gives this nice effect of the sharp areas traveling through the spring. But that is a lot of photos, 5.3 GB! What does the step size number actually mean? Is it scaled to the lens focal length, aperture, and focus distance? When I look around online I see a lot of focus stacking done with maybe 5 or 10 or 20 images, not hundreds. Do you use focus bracketing and image stacking? How many images do you usually use?
  15. I have a Fujifilm X-T30 II and recently bought the Fujinon 100-400 zoom which has OIS in the lens. My first time out of the house with it, I saw an eagle 0.2 miles away on a power transmission line tower, and grabbed the shot below. This is a crop from the center of the photo, and I was using the Fujinon 2X teleconverter. I got this shot handheld. And my hands aren't that steady. I'm pretty impressed with how well optical image stabilization in the lens works. There are a few Fujinon lenses that have it. I also have the 80 mm macro, and the 18-135 zoom, both with OIS.
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