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Astigmatism

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Astigmatism last won the day on June 12

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  1. Also, as I look on Amazon for tripods with Arca type mount, it appears that the tripods typically assume the Arca rail will be parallel to the optical axis, whereas the grip I bought puts the rail perpendicular to the axis. I think with most of the tripods I just saw, when I'm holding the control lever, the camera will be looking right or left, not forward. Am I misunderstanding? Thanks!!
  2. Yes, thank you, the more I look at the problem the more I think this is the best way to go. I bought the "Fujifilm MHG-XT10 Metal Hand Grip" and it fits perfectly and solves various little issues. So I think my next step is to buy a tripod head or an entire tripod with integral head. I like the pan type as opposed to the ball type, and wouldn't rule out a gimbal or geared head if they're not too costly. But again I read that there are some designs of the Arca type that are incompatible with some plates. So my question is: Are there any major brands of Arca style head or tripod that are INCOMPATIBLE with the "Fujifilm MHG-XT10 Metal Hand Grip" that you can warn me about??? Big big thanks!!
  3. Great thought provoking thread! My vote: If you like primes: You kind of have to get a macro, so, the 80 mm f/2. You want a fast middle length lens, so, the 35 f/1.4. You need wide, and the wider the better (you can always crop), so, the 14 f/2.8 And something long. I guess the 200 mm f/2, but it sure is expensive. I prefer primes and have all the lenses above, but not the 200, as it would break my bank. If, like me, you don't mind a zoom, you could substitute the 100-400 mm f/4.5-5.6 for the 200. It is expensive but several times less so than the 200. That's what I did. I don't think long zooms suffer as much pincushion/barrel as the wide zooms do, though I'm not sure and haven't tested this. If you want two zooms, substitute the 18-135 mm f/3.5-5.6 for the 35. I have this zoom and I really like it as a do-anything lens. Though, it's pretty hefty. If you are happy with adding close up lenses instead of having a macro, you could drop the macro and add the 50 mm f/1.0, which is just fast fast fast. It can really narrow the depth of field, much more so than any of the above. I have this lens and it's amazing. But it's heavy and costly! And it's big in diameter close to the camera, which means my camera only fits on my tripod pointed in one direction (which happens to cooperate well with the knob levers on the tripod).
  4. My XT-30 won't sit on my old Bogen Manfrotto tripod with some lenses. I just got a very fun Lensbaby Obscura and the head is quite a few millimeters too wide for the camera to sit on it without the lens prying it up, no matter which way I point it. My 50 mm f/1.0 will fit but only in some orientations. I never notice tripod head dimensions in ads. And I don't especially want to commit to some proprietary mount system (even if it does fit, which I sometimes hear they won't do). How to shop for tripods with small head dimensions? Note, the threads in all cases I'm thinking of are 1/4-20, it's the dimensions of the flat mounting surfaces that are the issue. Thanks!!
  5. Hey, great answer! It took a little more force than I expected but seeing your photos and reading your description gave me the confidence to go ahead with it. I really appreciate you taking the trouble jerryy!
  6. There's a "cable channel cover for DC coupler" along one short edge of the battery chamber cover. It's item 36 in the Parts of the Camera illustration on page 3 of the manual. I bought a CP-W126 DC coupler, which has an end that looks like the battery and slides into its place. But how do you remove the cable channel cover? It is obviously a separate part. It's a lighter color than the battery chamber cover, and it's not quite as hard. I studied it under a magnifier and it seems to have little tabs and ledges that would prevent moving it in any direction. Do you force it? In which direction? Thanks!
  7. Here's the final result. It took Focus Stacker an hour and a half.
  8. No photo to post yet, it's processing! I bought Focus Stacker for my iMac and have only dabbled. This morning is my time for trying new stuff. I'm shooting with the 80 f/2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro on an X-T30 II, shooting at f/4, using focus bracketing in manual mode. Dang -- I normally set shutter speed manually, had the exposure meter centered on its scale, and then discovered the shutter speed knob was accidentally set between the A and the 4000, EXIF reports 1/105 s. My subject is a found coil spring 35 mm in diameter and 50 mm long, which was buried in the yard and is very heavily rusted with rich rusty shades and texture. Its closest point is 60 mm from the front of the lens hood. I find 227 steps at the most coarse step size setting of 10 covers the entire spring. Scrolling through the photos gives this nice effect of the sharp areas traveling through the spring. But that is a lot of photos, 5.3 GB! What does the step size number actually mean? Is it scaled to the lens focal length, aperture, and focus distance? When I look around online I see a lot of focus stacking done with maybe 5 or 10 or 20 images, not hundreds. Do you use focus bracketing and image stacking? How many images do you usually use?
  9. I have a Fujifilm X-T30 II and recently bought the Fujinon 100-400 zoom which has OIS in the lens. My first time out of the house with it, I saw an eagle 0.2 miles away on a power transmission line tower, and grabbed the shot below. This is a crop from the center of the photo, and I was using the Fujinon 2X teleconverter. I got this shot handheld. And my hands aren't that steady. I'm pretty impressed with how well optical image stabilization in the lens works. There are a few Fujinon lenses that have it. I also have the 80 mm macro, and the 18-135 zoom, both with OIS.
  10. I fell for Fujifilm recently. I loved 35 mm film photography in manual exposure mode, and somebody pointed out the X-T30 which operates much like my beloved Canon and Nikon full manual cameras. Having controls fall naturally to the hand is everything in a good camera. It’s nice that I could set both command dials to control ISO, which is a dial I never had to use while actually shooting on film. I haven’t tried the camera much in any automatic modes, except that I did do a series of test photos to analyze with RawDigger, sweeping through all the available ISO settings. I used aperture priority so the camera could select various odd shutter speeds, letting me keep aperture (and vignetting) constant throughout the experiment. Some of the things that have blown me away which I didn’t even know about when first getting into Fujifilm: the OIS is so good it’s scary, letting me handhold way longer and slower lens settings than I’d have imagined, like I’m temporarily pinning the image to the world. Autofocus is super nice and sharp, and it’s fantastic being able to touch the LCD screen to focus on a particular area anywhere in the image and fire off a shot. And the 50 mm f/1.0 shooting at f/1.0 is amazingly selective for the distance things are in focus, almost like dropping a curtain behind the subject. I bought a set of Fujinon XF prime lenses: 14 f/2.8 R 27 f/2.8 R WR 35 f/1.4 R 50 f/1.0 R WR 80 f/2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro And a couple Fujinon FX zoom lenses: 18-135 f/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR 100-400 f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR Other Fujifilm gear: XF2X TC WR 2x Teleconverter X-T30 II Camera Body And a third party item: Meike 6.5 f/2.0 Circular Fisheye, a $129 barrel distortion of fun!
  11. Wow, that's for sure. I crept downstairs last night and ordered the Fuji 100-400. All the same, there are some... interesting... options out there with T mounts. In the film days, I really enjoyed experiments with the lens off the camera, using other means (sometimes a separate lens of some sort and sometimes not) to create an image. On the down side, ruining the sensor would be a much bigger deal than ruining film. But on the up side, I could work incrementally and see what each photo looks like before taking the next.
  12. I've heard the front of the sensor (X-Trans IV in my case) is glass, and that it is very fragile or pretty durable, and I think the manual says never touch with anything, but many 3rd parties sell little cleaners that look like a cross between a Q-Tip and a spatula. I've seen things about just scrubbing it with a dirty shirt, and similar, which I guess are jokes but it's never clear. How scratch resistant is it? And how strong, is it very thin like a microscope slide cover? The back illumination manufacturing process used to make it sounds like it would be thin. Thanks!
  13. I've grown a nice set of Fuji XF prime lenses from 14 mm to the 80 mm macro, and have the 2X teleconverter too. But where are the primes in the neighborhood around 200 or 300 mm? In my 35 mm film photography days I had Canon equipment, almost all primes, including their 300 mm f/5.6. I loved that lens! It was a clean cylindrical shape with a built in hood that slid forward or back, which was very convenient and made it really easy to pack. That'd be similar to buying a 200 for my new X-T30 II. But they don't have Fujinon primes in this space. I have 160 when I use the teleconverter on the macro. There's not much point in buying the 90 mm prime as it's so close to the 80. And they have the 400/2, which I'd love to have, but it's way out of my price range. And nothing else between them. There's the 70-300 zoom, which I guess I'll get when I can (they seem hard to find though I have watches set at a couple stores). I'd have preferred a prime, though. I do own one zoom, the 18-135, for "one size fits all" needs, and its long end is worth having. And, there's the 100-400 zoom. If I got into the right mood, I'd order that, but it'd be kind of irresponsible for me to pay nearly $2k for it. I did order a cheap Tokina manual catadioptric lens, 400 mm, $250, to get a top end that reaches way out there, though it will probably be a bit of work to focus it well. It was supposed to arrive yesterday but is running late. We will see. I've never had an autofocusing interchangeable lens camera before, and I really like how accurately and quickly the camera does it, so an autofocusing lens would be nice. Surprisingly, 3rd parties hardly offer anything prime in this range, either. What can we hope for?
  14. This is an old thread, I know, but I bought this 50 mm f/1.0 lens recently. It's pretty amazing. Cost a lot, though!
  15. More on inkjet photo printing: lots of online references say they can deliver around 7 or 8 stops of dynamic range. Here are two discussions with lots of details: https://forum.luminous-landscape.com/index.php?topic=44370.0 https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/2254402 For a long time I've daydreamed about a printing method to get very high dynamic range: print transparencies, one backwards, and laminate them together with careful alignment. Then illuminate them from behind with a bright light, maybe uncomfortably bright in the smallest highest highlights. I've also thought about making that bright light from three nearly monochromatic light sources chosen to increase the color gamut of the printing ink (you could certainly increase the gamut by filtering out the wavelengths that contribute least to color distinction).
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