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Astigmatism

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Astigmatism last won the day on July 21 2023

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  1. Some questions re: "Important notice for consumers processing FUJIFILM digital camera files using macOS", part of which says: "While the current firmware versions allow these X and GFX series cameras to internally write and store 9,999 frames to a single folder, it has been observed that if more than 4,000 files are written in-camera to a single folder on an SDXC card and directly accessed using macOS the firmware incompatibility creates two potential scenarios: (1) Some files on the memory card may become inaccessible if the card has been connected to the computer through an internal or external memory card reader and directly accessed using macOS. [...]" This refers to SDXC cards, meaning 32 GB to 2 TB capacity (SDHC cards hold less than 32 GB and SDUC cards hold more than 2 TB). Questions: 1) Is this still a problem, using a new X-T5? 2) Does using MacOS Photos to import images from a card (my typical use) count as "directly accessed using macOS" or do they only mean using MacOS Finder to access the image files? I mean, how is "directly accessed" defined in this context? 3) Would SDUC cards fix this issue? I'm not even sure they're a thing -- not finding them on Amazon. Haven't tried the experiment, which could take quite a while.... If anybody knows, thank you very much!
  2. As to the original question, now more than half a year old, I just upgraded from an X-T4 to an X-T5. I'm just getting started with it. I like the increase in resolution. I think I like the option to save as HEIF or JPG, though I'm just learning about the significance (and if you shoot 100% RAW it may be a non-issue anyhow). I'm also intrigued by the "Pixel Shift Multi-Shot Function", which repurposes IBIS to move the sensor around to 20 slightly different positions, taking a picture at each position. You then use their free software on a desktop computer to combine the 20 pictures, creating a 160 megapixel image. The resolution doubles, and each pixel in this final image has information from all 3 color masks, rather than exactly 1 which is puffed up by de-mosaicing. Very clever. It is a real 160 megapixel image, sort of. Haven't experimented with it yet. There are a bunch of other improvements in the specs, though I don't think of those by themselves as sufficient reason to make the upgrade. I'm having a great time getting to know the camera -- but, then, I am fond of equipment....
  3. Well, yes and no. There's going to be upper and lower wavelength limits somewhere. They could be transmission limits, or extreme out-of-focus limits because chromatic aberration has blown up so far outside the visual range. Or they could be sensor limits, that is, an image detector usually needs some minimum photon energy to detect the photon (an exception being thermal energy sensors such as thermopiles or pyroelectric sensors such as the ones used in thermal cameras). One exploration I pondered would be getting a narrow f number spherical first surface mirror, such as were common in slow Newtonian telescopes of perhaps 50 years ago, where they'd not bother to figure the mirror into a paraboloid, relying on the narrow f number to make the image useable instead. I could use such a mirror to turn a sensor into a macro camera by putting the mirror one radius away (so two focal lengths away) and placing the sensor and the object being photographed as close as possible to each other. That way there'd be no transmission limit in the optics, and only whatever was built into the sensor, and of course the air path and the reflectivity of the mirror. We have a chicken and egg conundrum here. I'm not sure what wavelengths would be fun to play with, so I don't know the system requirements. Here's a paperback I got recently that is somewhat of a guide: https://www.amazon.com/Exploring-Ultraviolet-Photography-NearUltraviolet-Adventures/dp/1682031241/ref=sr_1_1?crid=P633OKDU8CB&keywords=ultraviolet+photography&qid=1701010570&s=books&sprefix=ultraviolet+photography%2Cstripbooks%2C88&sr=1-1
  4. I'd also be interested in adapting Fuji lenses to some other monochrome camera. They make them for telescopes, for example, and there was one on Amazon for $300 that I contemplated getting just to experiment. It wouldn't have all sorts of things the Fuji cameras have, but it'd be true monochrome. I could also adapt simple lenses for ultraviolet and infrared photography (the Fuji lenses likely have significant limits beyond visible light, especially ultraviolet, and their chromatic aberration might be awful, as they're not designed for that use).
  5. Welcome! Some XF lenses I have that I think are way amazing: the 80 mm macro, the 18-135, and the 8.
  6. I have the Fuji 100-400 also, but I also have the Fuji 2X tele-extender. I actually mostly use the zoom with the 2X on it. I highly recommend it. There's also the 1.4X, but if you can have the 2, well.... If I had known the 150-600 was coming, I probably would have done that, and wish I had it instead of the 100-400. Nothing wrong with the 100-400, but I'm using it to get the reach, and don't often use its low end anyway.
  7. I have the Arthur Cam book, and it wasn't worth bothering with. It's big, but mostly because the type is large and the layout has a lot of open space. Seems to me it's mostly a rehash of the supplied manual. A way, way better guide is "The complete guide to Fujifilm's X-T4" by Tony Phillips. This thing is absolutely loaded, it has a lot of thought put into it that builds on the supplied manual, and it has a lot that isn't in the manual. The paper version I got on Amazon came with access to a digital version, too, which is nice because you can search it. Really, this is the best guide I've ever seen for ANY camera.
  8. I don't think there are Fuji "FX" lenses or mounts, it's "XF". If I had your camera I would buy any XF or XC lens and expect it to work. I do have an X-T30 ii, pretty similar. I have lots of XF lenses. XC lenses are made by Fuji and are cheaper, if it's cheap you want. I wanted a lens with very few elements or element groups, and bought a Pergear lens for about $59 new. It only has 4 elements in 3 groups, IIRC. I also plan to use it if I ever think I might ruin the lens, like shooting something dangerous.
  9. I have the Fuji 100-400, the 2X, and the X-T4. I like them all. When I bought the 100-400, the 150-600 was not yet available; I'd have bought that if it were available, because there's always something I want more reach for, but it doesn't feel important enough to buy it now. As to sharpness, if you're taking photos at a big distance, there are things outside the lens that diminish it, including the quality of the air, the tripod stability, and haze (which isn't sharpness but rather contrast, still it adds to the visual impression). All the same, using the lens at 400 plus the 2X, I got a nice photo of a Bald Eagle at a distance of about 1/3 mile, and blowing it up I can clearly see his nostrils and with some difficulty I think I can distinguish his pupil from his iris. Increasing your pixel count with the X-T5 does increase the challenge, for sure. This is an aside, but a friend is giving me his astronomical telescope. In camera terms, it is a 1200 mm focal length optic at f/4.7 (astronomers would size this by the physical aperture rather than the focal length, so it's a 10"). And it's a reflector, so zero chromatic aberration. Trying this will be my next photo extreme.
  10. Oooooohh, so that's what's going on! Thanks jerryy!
  11. I use Acquire to back up my camera settings on an X-T4 and an X-T30 ii. But the sequence of steps I seem to need are a bit obscure. The manual says: Connect camera via USB, launch Acquire. It doesn't state whether the camera should be on or off. When I do that, Acquire never recognizes a camera. I've tried turning the camera on first, between these steps, and after. Nothing. What works is: Leave camera off, connect, turn camera on, launch Acquire, turn camera off, turn camera on. I haven't found a simpler sequence of steps that lets Acquire recognize a camera. I may be missing something or getting my facts wrong someplace (this requires a surprising amount of accurate short term memory!). What is supposed to be the sequence of operations? Once Acquire recognizes a camera, everything seems to work as expected. I can back up and restore camera settings. I'm using Acquire version 1.24.0.4. I've updated both camera firmwares fairly recently but think it was funny like this before the updates too. This is all on an iMac running Ventura 13.4.1 (c). I have also learned that Acquire does not connect at all if I go through a USB hub; the camera cable has to go into one of the USB ports on the iMac itself. Thanks!!
  12. I think I'd vote for the 18 mm f/1.4 plus the 80 mm f/2.8 Macro. I want to be able to shoot pretty wide, which I can always crop, and I should be able to shoot fairly fast. Thus the 18. Given that, the 80 has much better reach, and can shoot quite small too. These are both lenses I own and like. If you let me have 3, I'd put the 35 f/1.4 in the middle, and pick maybe 14 mm for the wide. Or maybe even 8 mm.
  13. I have the X-T30 ii and the X-T4. I prefer the X-T4 because it puts the ISO speed on its own top dial, because it's bigger and easier to handle with clumsy hands, and because it adds in body image stabilization (IBIS). But otherwise these are not very different, IMHO. I always want to set ISO, shutter, and aperture manually. The X-T4 makes that work extremely well, as if it's designed just for photographers like me, though it's also easy to put any combination of those into automatic modes. Just looking at the top of the camera tells me how everything is set, and that's where I change it. The X-T30 ii almost does that, except I have to use the rear dial to change ISO and look in the EVF or LCD to see it. Well, it's easier than loading a different film, which is what I used to have to do -- but still I really like the ISO dial on top of my X-T4! I've never used an X-S10, but I just skimmed a review of it. I don't think it accomplishes ANY of that, so it'd be a nonstarter for me. Are you a manual photographer or an automatic photographer? When I look at your options, that branching of the decision tree is the first thing.
  14. I bet it was a bad description of a non-Fuji lens in a Fuji X mount version. Any clue what was with the three focal lengths listed? Zooms are normally known by their min and max focal lengths. There was a thing decades ago, lenses that had multiple focal lengths but not continuously adjustable. You'd set the lens to one of several choices. Supposedly it was easier to design the optics for good performance at just several focal lengths and not the whole range (which does make some sense). Any chance it could have been one of these?
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