jerryy

This is just a guess, but the specifications for that monitor say it only supports 8-bit bit-depth. Most of the video outputs for the X-T3 are set to support 10-bit bit-depth. Try using the H.264 codecs, with the same frame rates, etc. and see if you get an image. edit: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t3/technical_notes/spec/index.html H.264: SD card, 4∶2∶0, 8-bit/HDMI output, 4∶2∶2, 10-bit edit, edit: Welcome to the forum.

This is essentially a brand new lens, it has only been out for just over a year. There might not be enough reported issues to need an update yet.

I believe you need to give more information about what you are doing so that you can get some help. Such as: What computer system are you trying to download the images to, which version of its operating system? Which version of Lightroom? How are you connecting the camera to the computer? Have you tried to put the card in a card reader that is attached to the computer? Information like that. A sad smiley emoji just is not enough. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Back on Page 2 of this thread, there is a posting for NGC 896, the Fishhead Nebula, 'Ol Fishhead juts off from the beautiful Heart Nebula, IC 1805. On the other side of the Heart is IC 1831 (also attached to the Heart Nebula). IC 1831 is a faint Diffuse Nebula in Cassiopeia's Constellation. The brighter nebulas get more attention, but IC1831 has its own merits. This is the exposure equivalent of 80 minutes, 25 seconds. The nebula in the lower right hand side is the Soul Nebula, IC 1848. Heart Nebula: https://apod.nasa.gov/apod/ap190911.html Soul Nebula: https://apod.nasa.gov/apod/ap160228.html

Assuming the in-camera conversion from raw to jpeg works, it sounds like the software was updated before the firmware. It might be time to contact the Fujifilm offices in your region (lookup Fujifilm contact in your search engine) and see if they know more information.

Do you have the same issue with the Raw Converter software? https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/products/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/ If so, then you may have an unusual issue from the firmware update that others are not seeing.

Fujifilm updated this software a few days ago. I do not know one way or another if the new version will fix the problem you are seeing, but .... https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/support/download/software/x-raw-studio/ p.s. Welcome to the forum.

You may have touched the display mode button. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t30-2/about_this_camera/display/index.html#choosing Scroll down to the section called Choosing A Display Mode. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Can you post some samples?

You probably already tried this, but just to be sure: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-s20/connections/webcam/ Also, there are similar menu settings that need to be turned on to have it be in card reader mode. p.s. Welcome to the forum. There is a posting over on reddit about a work-around, but I do not know if it will work for you: https://www.reddit.com/r/fujifilm/comments/164mjxm/problem_with_xs20_and_usbc_webcam/

Before you jump into the fun and agony of grinding your own glass, you might be able to test some of your thoughts by getting a few mirror lenses and seeing how well the thought meets the reality. A lot companies carry new and used mirror lenses of various focal lengths and aperture / f-stops.

https://chrisbonney.uk/blog/iso-invariance-explained-better/ A bit more explanation.

That sounds like fun. This might interest you, the comments to the article offer some low cost approaches: https://www.dpreview.com/articles/3980259504/the-magic-of-ultraviolet-nature-and-macro-photography But, are you sure about the lenses’ transmittance being the problem? Film cameras and a lot of CCD based digital astro cameras typically need a UV filter somewhere in the image train, usually screwed onto the front of the lens. Most CMOS digital cameras have a UV filter as part of the protective “glass” just in front of the sensor, so putting one on the lens is unnecessary. Hence, it is not a concern as much for the lens makers. https://petapixel.com/uv-filter-guide/ Please post some results!

https://www.fujirumors.com/beyond-fujinon-big-roundup-of-third-party-autofocus-and-manual-focus-x-mount-lenses/ Is there any in this article (including the comments) that help?

Since you are zooming in and out from those settings, it sounds like you want to use wider primes and longer primes. But, reconciling that to your desire to not carry a lot of gear is going to be tricky. Want vs need. I like Fujfilm's XF14mm and XF16mm lenses. They work quite well for many situations and even give you great landscape shots if you use them that way. Perhaps the colder weather will cause some of the street photographers to come inside and offer some insights for you. For what it is worth, here are some lens lineups: https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/lenses/ A lot of folks like the X-Mount lenses Viltrox sells. The lenses get good reviews. https://viltroxstore.com/collections/camera-lens Select X-mount in the "Type" filter. Nowadays, the are a lot of companies offering low cost X-Mount lenses, so you can experiment to find what you need without having to, ummm, 'make difficult financial choices' to get to where you want to be.

Also, back on Page 1, the wide-field view of Messier Object M45 (the Pleiades) has been replaced with a new version. The new, completely different version was photographed from a different location using a different lens and camera body.