jerryy

How have you tried making sure the new monitor correctly works? Connect it to a blu-ray player or some other device that can output video over a HDMI cable and make certain the monitor is okay. Try a new / different HDMI cable from the camera to the monitor. Try different video out settings. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Out of Service... Young's High Bridge, a single track cantilever bridge. Built in 1889, it was last used in 1983. It spans the Kentucky River, one end in Anderson County, the other end in Woodford County, Kentucky, USA.

Wow!!!

Ohio River, Indiana - Kentucky, USA

Photosol, who makes Eclipse sensor cleaning fluid, recommends their Type 2 swab, 17mm: https://photosol.com/swabchart/ p.s. Welcome to the forum.

The linked image does not show up, I hope it will though, Kingfishers are cool birds!

You would be limiting yourself compared to what you should be able to enjoy with a changeable lens body. @Edp uses a 75mm as well as many other lenses for his images: https://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/31761-i’ve-found-the-x-t5-to-be-a-capable-camera-for-motor-sports/#comment-99515 As @OzGordo and @Astigmatism mention, try shooting from different distances and find where the lens gives you the pleasing shot for the perspective you want. There are quite a few car - sports shooters using lenses with considerably longer focal lengths to get great shots, as well as wider angles lenses for certain shots. This link has some more information about perspective distortion: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perspective_distortion

The types of distortions that would appear are barrel or pin-cushion distortions, but this shot does not seem to have any. The 35mm is in the “wide-angle” lens group and the 50mm is in the “normal” lens group. Going from the wider to the narrower will give you some lens compression effect, where things look a little more smushed together. That effect is more pronounced going from wide angle to telephoto, i.e. lenses 70mm or longer. Looking correct is subjective, if you were used to the 50mm - 70mm range, you would probably not have noticed this effect when you changed from the Sony world.

That is normal. Raw files save everything from the sensor with only the most minimal processing. The different sized jpegs are processed, a type of editing with size changing being one of the edited parts. However, you cannot go back to the original from the processed jpeg. With full sized raw files, you can use an editor and make changes you want -- including scaling them smaller, discard the changes and start over -- from the original file. If the size were smaller, you could not go back and recover missing detailed information.

It would be easy enough to say 'set it at f14 and best wishes'. That would be doing you a dis-service. APS-C sensors are different than medium format or 35mm film, some like to think of them as similar to shooting slide film -- exposure seems to matter more than dof, but that also is a much too big of a generalization to go by. Just like the Sunny 16 rule and the hyper-focal distance rule guidelines your teachers taught you way back when were starting points to build from, one decent way to get going to to remember every image setting is different. That may seem too vague, but just start from scratch, so to speak; pick out several familiar scenes you favor, put the camera on a tripod and shoot differing f-stops. Digital film is very, very, very cheap. After a while, your intuition will take over and you will be getting the dof you want. One thing you might not want to consider yet, different lens can go deeper than others -- deeper as in in higher numbered f-stops before diffraction occurs, you have to read reviews to know which ones will and will not, so to speak. Focus stacking is easy enough using digital files in an external editor, your camera will need to get the frames manually though.

Hmmm, that sounds like you and the camera engaged in some sort of epic type of struggle. 😃 I am glad to read you got it working. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Yes, yes there is a way to change that. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x100t/menu_setup/screen_set-up/ Scroll down to the LCD brightness section.

That does look like, just for kicks, the software decided to mess around with the tint slider in the white balance section. Ugh. As the video shows, Affinity Photo does work with the Capture One, and if you want to give yourself a fast preview, it does do raw conversions as well, so you can decide if you want to really pursue a composition using everything from C1 and AP.

It sounded like you are wanting to use something allowing you back-and-forth tweaking between the individual frames and the stitched panorama. The new V2 version of Affinity Photo makes that process easier than before. Otherwise, you can export TIFF images from Capture One, there are a lot of stitching programs out there from ones like PTGui regular or Pro, or Hugin down to various free ones. But you might need to spend more time working the various exposures in C1 to get things well matched in the final image.

Does this help? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSUhKyzyF3A

IBIS helps if your hand-held shots get a little shaky after hiking for a while, especially if you are shooting video. If, on the other hand, you are using a tripod(*) it probably will not help at all. These may help you decide: https://lensguide.io/fuji-x-mount-video/ https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/news/fujifilm-user-these-are-the-lenses-you-should-be-using-to-shoot-video If your budget will let you splurge: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/fujifilm-x-h1-and-cine-lenses/ci/38208?msclkid=6aea51817e401ebfdb3f35137bc07e9d (*) I have read claims that using IBIS helps if the tripod is not super, extra stable, but I am inclined to think using IBIS / OIS that way will instead cause a feedback loop and mess up your images. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

I am sorry to hear that. I think you will need to take it to a camera repair shop. They will be able to at least tell you what is wrong.

Not European old, but old nonetheless ...

Ohio River, Kentucky - Indiana, USA Ohio River, Indiana - Kentucky, USA

Sometime a short break can help to phrase things so that they do not sound annoying, Well that is the hope anyway, so here goes. Having that meter would be nice as well as having the histogram. But having them or not is a minor consideration in terms of what you are wanting to do because the app does not work with intervalometers. The only way you can get a time lapse sequence using the app is to manually click the shutter button, wait then click it again and so on. Even if the meter were there, you would need extremely fast reflexes to see and react to a lighting change by changing the settings and then going back to clicking the shutter button. Doing that for hours would be a feat indeed. The equipment you mention does this by analyzing several past images and predicting what settings to apply to the next incoming image. Right now the app has the live view which will tell you if an area is over or under exposed, but as far as what you are wanting to do without being able to connect the app to an intervalometer, well …