jerryy

Back on this thread's Page 1, the posting for Messier Object M31 (The Andromeda Galaxy) has a wider view added.

Since the lenses are using Canon’s EF mount, why would an adapter such as the ones built by Fringer or one of their competitors not work?

These may help: https://www.thephoblographer.com/2016/09/27/what-to-expect-from-the-fujifilm-gf-lenses-with-their-full-frame-equivalent/#:~:text=What you get when you do this is,f%2F2.2 GF 63mm f%2F2.8 %2F%2F FF 50mm f%2F2.2 https://shuttermuse.com/fujifilm-gfx-crop-factor-and-gf-lens-35mm-full-frame-equivalent-focal-lengths/#:~:text=Most people are used to seeing lens focal,to a 50mm lens on the GFX system. I believe the 0.79 factor is for going from GFX format to FF format, I am not certain whether you use 0.79 or 1.6 for adapting FF to GFX. But try not to get too hung up on that. After a while, it will be just like using any other format; put a lens on the body, turn the camera on and look through the viewfinder, if you need a different field of view, change to a different lens😁. edit: p.s. Please let us know what kind of results you get, I am curious whether or not you get a “bright” center image circle vignetting out to a black rectangle.

Summer turned in its work card, Autumn takes the next shift...

1.) No, no you do not. But, there is a menu option whereby you can enter a focal length for several manual lenses. This length (when a manual lens is on the body) is entered into the EXIF data. Note: You need to switch between the manual fl settings for the various manual lenses, the camera does not know which manual lens is attached. 2.) That would be a neat trick to have, but alas, no. Aperture Priority needs the camera to control the shutter speed, etc., while knowing the f-stop, but without any electrical contacts on the lens, … Focus peaking works well enough as do the other manual focus assists the camera provides. This is because the assists use the image that hits the sensor, things such as good lighting, etc. are determining factors. This may help: https://blog.roycruz.com/using-manual-lenses-with-the-fuji-x-system/ p.s. Welcome to the forum. edit: Dang typos!

By third party item, am I correct in guessing you mean lenses? Not items such as flash units, gimbals, etc. If it were just the lenses, that could mean that somehow the setting “shoot without lens” got turned off, it needs to be turned on to take photos using a lot of third party lenses that do not pass the electrical information to the body, essentially x-mount manual lenses. But the way you are phrasing things, it sounds like something else is going on. Does the remote work properly on your X-T4? If so, your X-T5 may need to visit the dealer for a checkup. In essence, the remote release is a pair of switches wired in such a way that closing the first switch engages the auto focus motor routines and closing the second switch cause the shutter operation. The remote jack in the body may have a loose connection the dealer can fix.

North America ... NGC 7000 is the name / number / title given to a nebula in the Cygnus Constellation that actually does resemble most of North America, though I think the Canadian part gets short changed. This nebula is pretty popular because it contains so many fascinating parts. Along the left side of "Mexico" is something called the Great Cygnus Wall, and over to the right of NGC 7000 is another popular nebula called the Pelican Nebula. Pelican Nebula is a little fainter, so it needs more exposure time to fill it in so it shows as much as the North America Nebula. This is the equivalent of 80 minutes of exposure. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_America_Nebula https://skyandtelescope.org/online-gallery/ngc-7000-north-america-nebula-2/ https://www.constellation-guide.com/north-america-nebula/ https://www.constellation-guide.com/pelican-nebula/

It sounds like you had your X-T1 somewhat set to use more auto settings than manual settings and are using more manual settings for your X-T4. There should be some differences of course, the pixels are differently sized and that does affect the images’ outcomes. But without some side by side image comparisons along with with light meter measurements, speculations on reasons are just that. Try raising the ISO when it gets darker, the X-T4 has pretty clean files, you have a lot of latitude to work in.

It is possible to select a batch of images while in the playback mode to delete all of the selected images at once, your friend could have accidentally deleted some of your images while intending to only remove ones they took. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/playback/menu_playback/#:~:text=Select FRAME for ERASE in the playback menu.,Additional pictures can be deleted by pressing MENU%2FOK. Hopefully you have not tried using that card to get more images since then. You did not mention which manufacturer made the card, but if it is a Sandisk card, you may be able to use Sandisk RescuePro or Sandisk Rescue Pro Deluxe to recover the images. If another company built the card, they may have similar recovery software or failing that, look on the internet for sd image recovery programs. You install the software on your computer, put the card in a connected card reqder and let the sotware work. It can take a while. p.s. Welcome to the forum, hopefully your next post will be under better circumstances.

George!!! Welcome back. This was my trusty Fujifilm XF 55-200mm in action. It occasionally thinks it is a macro lens. 🫠

The message shows up depending on the iPad model and iPadOS version you are using, based upon the way you may or may not have set up your security settings. Here are a couple of articles that may help (or, at least, I hope not cause more confusion): https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208857 https://support.apple.com/en-gb/guide/ipad/ipad75b7b23f/ipados p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Grasshopper (Caelifera)

Turn on the “shoot without lens” option: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t3/menu_setup/button-dial_setting/index.html p.s. Welcome to the forum.

This might help or make things worse: https://fstoppers.com/astrophotography/compare-four-ultra-wide-angle-fast-aperture-aps-c-prime-lenses-622553 I am not sure why they stuck the article in their astro section, very little of the article is about astro.

Summer Swan... Starting in late summer, say late August or early September, the Cygnus Constellation is directly overhead ("Just Look Up") for folks in the Northern Hemisphere. As is usually the case with constellations, there are differing cultural views and fanciful tales about things going on in the skies. https://www.space.com/cygnus-constellation.html https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cygnus_(constellation) https://www.constellation-guide.com/constellation-list/cygnus-constellation/ edit: This is the equivalent of 19 minutes of exposure.

There is a section in the setup menus that gives you various options for manual focus assist. It looks like you have one of these turned on. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x100v/taking_photo/manual-focus/index.html p.s. welcome to the forum.