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  1. Hi, new to Fuji system. Just received a copy of XF55-140 and I have a question for the owners of XF55-140 regarding noises the lens makes. When I turn X-T1's power on with 55-140 mounted, I hear a gentle whirring sound that I assume to be generated by OIS motor (as a Canon shooter, I am familiar with most of the noises made by their lenses - their version of OIS, the IS makes the same kind of noise when engaged). However, with the 55-140, the noise continues even after I turn off the OSS switch on the lens. In fact, I hear it the entire time the power is on. I turned off High Performance setting in camera's menu but it did not make a difference. By the way, the kit lens, the 18-55's OIS does not do this, but it is completely silent whether it's on or off. Also, the lens rattles inside when I shake the lens when it's disconnected from the camera or mounted on the camera with the camera power turned off. Again, I have a Canon lens (100L Macro) that does this, but depending on when the power is switched off, this rattling can be minimized. So the question is: is this the normal behavior for this lens? Is it because the OIS assembly of 55-140 is much larger and allowed to move more? TIA
  2. Hi, I have an x100t with the TCL-x100, and the combo is (really!) great for still shots, however trying to keep up with my kids is another story. Set to zone focus, high performance ON, face detection OFF and Focus priority, it feels like the camera is almost there, but just not fast enough, so I miss a lot of shots. So, I know I am in the x-t1 forum, should I be able to get better results with an x-t1 and 35mm 2.0 WR combo? Are the 4.0 firmware improvements, as well as the new lens just the thing that leaves the x100t in the dust?
  3. Recently I have been auto-bracketing my landscape shots, then converting to HDR in Lightroom. I have generally been pleased with the results, but I'm curious about thoughts on the pros and cons of using this method. Thanks.
  4. I am a newbie and recently started using x-t1 a few months ago. Its the first camera i have owned thats not a cheap (<200) point and shoot. Need your suggestions in keeping costs down when it comes to filters - I have a fuji F/2 35mm WR prime lens that accepts 43mm filters. I bought a polarizing filter so that i can capture blue skies (rather than a white out) while shooting outside in bright summer days.The problem is, 43 mm filters are hard to find. And probably won't they wont fit other fuji lenses that i will eventually buy. Next one i am looking for is the 27mm f/2. I don't want to have to buy a new filter for every lens i buy ! Someone mentioned that i should get a converter/ adapter which will allow me to buy 50mm filters (readily available) and use that on all my lenses. But a quick search on amazon didn't help me with that. Could you advise about the existence and cost/ quality benefit of such converters ? What are they called converter/ adapter ? What size filters would you recommend buying which can be used across most Fuji lenses ? thanks for the help,
  5. From reading different comments around this forum I seem to have come to the conclusion that most find the 4-way buttons better than on the black model, as well as some stating that the weather sealing fault with the plastic door on the black model is not an issue on the graphite model. Do you agree with that?
  6. Hi, One thing is to get rain on your WR x-t1, but what do you do if its a splash of seawater with salt and all? How do you clean the camera without holding it under running tap water?
  7. How good is the EVF in the X-T1 compared to X-Pro1? I currently own an old X-Pro1 and intend to buy the X-Pro2, but i think I'll enjoy the use of a bigger 0.77x EVF better, than the ERF+OVF. I'm using a set of six Minolta MD (W.)Rokkor lenses: 20/2.8, 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 45/2, 50/1.7, 50/1.2. I use them with a Zhongyi Lens Turbo MD - Fuji X ver.II adapter which makes them 1.1x crop and 1 stop faster: 22/2, 30/2.8, 38/2, 50/1.4, 55/1.2, 55/0.9. I now can't use fast apertures at daylight, outside as the max shutter speed of 1/4000 on the X-Pro1 is just not fast enough, and I don't intend to use any nd filters, as I hate to change filters all the time. ​Would all those benefits using the newer technology of the X-T1, talking about focusing aids also, be enough of a benefit to sell my X-Pro1 and forget the rangefinder style shooting? I actually did not get the experience I wanted for manually focusing - white peaking only, bad auto WB.
  8. Hi All, I've following this forum for a while, and really enjoying the posts here. I've been an X-T1 user for about 18 months now, started off with a couple of primes and have now also got the 16-55 2.8 (which i love). I typically just hold my camera, and have a DSPTCH wrist strap (here). One of the reasons I got the 16-55 was because its great for taking pictures of my son, where changing lenses would have me miss a shot (or miss him jumping off something!). As such, the wrist strap isn't really doing it for me anymore, and I'd like to get a sling strap as well. I've been looking through the many posts on this sub, and so I think I'd like something like a blackrapid sling which clips in via the tripod mount, as it keeps the strap clear of my hands, and has minimal extra stuff hanging off the camera. I appreciate though, that something like the peak design slide might be cool, as the camera might sit a little better against the body? Does anyone have any comparisons between the 2? I don't particularly want to have little anchors hanging off the camera, and I'm concerned that the plate may block the battery door? Thoughts appreciated! Thanks, Chris
  9. Hi folks, after updating X-T1 FW to 4.20 I noticed something odd. LCD is grey (not completely without power) if I turn camera on with LCD articulated. If I just bring the top of LCD to the back of the camera, or I bring entire LCD to the camera back it works again. Very strange thing is that once I see the picture I can again move it in any position and it will work without any issue. If the camera is powered on with LCD closed I can see the picture on the screen and again, LCD works in any position. No glitches, works perfectly. If I cycle between EVF and LCD, LCD will work ONLY if its top touching the camera. There is simply no logic to it. I will try to record a video of it next morning so you can see. I "updated" FW t0 4.21 and same thing happens. Anyone experienced the same? The eye proximity sensor works as supposed, no problem there. EVF works as it should, no problem there either. It it was faulty flat cable then it would not work in some position but it does. Only not on power-up or EVF/LCD cycle. There are some images so you can understand what the heck I just wrote Thanks! Amer
  10. I'm Ed in Lenexa, KS. Amateur at its worst, but have been shooting since before digital. Started with a Minolta Maxxum and went digital in 2006. Just recently picked up a X-T1 to consider in place of my Nikon D3300. Also keep a couple of film cameras around for fun. Canon A1 and Canon EOS 630. Here are a few my recent shots. There are a few in there shot with Velvia slide film. https://www.flickr.com/photos/welshkc If this is the right spot, I also have a question about the X-T1 and a Soligor 650mm lens I was recently given. An adapter is working just fine for attaching the Soligor to the X body. It is a t-mount system and the adapter was easy to find. The Soligor is 650mm with a fixed F/8.5 aperture. I found in the menu where to set the lens length for inclusion in the metadata, but the aperture setting menu item is grayed out. Since the camera has no way to know what the aperture is, it actually reads F/0, then it would have problems with calculating the exposure. Right? Of course I am running in all manual mode, but would like to use Av if possible. The X-T1 manual didn't have any clues. Can anyone point me the right direction for why the aperture setting menu item is not available with this adapted lens? Thanks and I am glad to have found a X system community.
  11. I wanted to see how the X-T1 held up on fast moving subjects like Motocross. I've never shot them before but the camera and lens worked quite well. All images are with the 55-200mm. There was some under 50cc categories racing and they were quite cute! (and fearless!!)
  12. Last year I got a call from a client asking me to replicate a large chunk of wood that they had hanging in a new office so they could hang it in print, life size, for different offices around the country. The Art was made up of reclaimed wooden railway sleepers from the area their new office building was built. The brief was to make it as hi-res as possible for print & it measured about 2 meters by 1.5 meters. I ended up stitching several shots and moving a few of the planks about in Photoshop later. The final file was just tipping the TIFF limit of 4Gb on output - that was a big hi-res print containing parts of about 20 images. Good days work that day. I know this is talked about a lot from time to time, 'how big can I print from a Fuji camera?' Well I don't know really, outside of the theory and working it out with a calculator, just how big you can print but it's probably very big. For most people I'd say they are asking how big can I print and still have it look good from a few feet away hanging on my wall? Probably quite big, no? OK so I'm not really taking things too seriously here just wanted to show a print I got today, single shot no 'pan-o-stitching' but printed it out at 20x30 inches and the detail in the print is great. I've plonked the camera and lens used to the it on the print for scale. I won't even bother mentioning the models as you'll all know no doubt. The print is a gift for a client. So 16Mpx can print 20x30 inches at great resolution no problem
  13. Original Blog Post: https://insigniachiaki.wordpress.com/2016/02/04/the-beauty-of-vintage-or-why-i-use-fuji-x/ Telling other photography enthusiasts that I use Fuji is sometimes a scary thing to do. You see, there are many other enthusiasts who believe that “Full Frame is the way to go” or that “Mirrorless cameras are for pussies”. Although I strongly disagree with these statements nowadays, I can see where they are coming from. Because being a FF-addict myself in the past, I can definitely remember my lust for ever-shallower DoP (BOKEHHHHHH!!!) and (on paper) amazing high ISO capabilities. But everything got a bit bland for me once I dove into the the world of FF cameras. Nikon D810s of the world and Sony α series of cameras of the world just seemed too boring for me. Sure, DSLRs are great work horses, but I find them implausible to shoot streets with without intimidating one or two pedestrians; Sony FF cameras are IQ-beasts, but I found them ill-designed in the software department. Now, I realize that photography is not all about the looks, the style, and glitters and gold, but sometimes just a bit of ‘oomph’ to entice one’s photography zeal wouldn’t be so bad, right? That’s exactly why I started exploring Fuji-X and vintage lenses. The new generation of APS-C sized sensors are really, really, really good, to my pleasant surprise. Recently updated models like Nikon’s D7200, Pentax’s K-3II, and Fuji’s 16 megapixel sensor cameras are all capable of squeezing out outstanding IQ in low light. In some cases these APS-C sensors, I found, are even outperforming certain FF cameras. (i.e. Sony’s original A7 and A7R) And today, Sony has just announced three G Master branded lenses to expand their growing FE mount lineup of lenses. They look incredibly amazing from the specs, and I truly believe Sony has just brought another wave of image quality revolution. I have never been disappointed by Sony cameras’ and high-end lenses’ image quality. With that being said, I can vividly remember the exactly same type of hype when Sony had just announced their A7R II, an on-paper beast of a camera that many thought could have slaughtered most other cameras on the market. 42.2 megapixels BI sensor, 4K internal recording, 399 AF points, and now with 14-bit uncompressed RAW! Wow! However, it wasn’t until recently that most people could get their hands on the A7R II that many now have cooled down from that initial hype. The roller coaster-ride that was the A7R II had so much promise, and was indeed a revolution in an otherwise-bland year of 2015 for cameras; however, there were also a lot of swings and misses (overheating issues, ergonomics concerns, annoying menus etc.) from the A7R II that reminded photography enthusiasts and pros alike that “specs aren’t everything” when it comes to really shooting a camera in the field.
  14. Hi all, I recently purchased a half-case for my X-T1 and it comes with a fabric kind of bag, with an attached elastic cord. Does anyone has any idea of how to use it with the camera (I mean, properly used, I can figure out that the camera goes inside but can't understand how to use the elastic cord). Thanks in advance, Kind regards, B
  15. Hi, I have read a lot of reviews of the 16mm 1.4 WR which praise it for sharpness, contrast and color. However, Auto Focus they all seem to agree upon, is good, but not exceptional, so e.g. street photography is out of the question. One thing I noticed though, was that all the reviews (that I found) was from before the 29th of June 2015 where Fuji released the 4.0 firmware. So my question is: Has the 4.0 update improved upon the 16mm's AF performance? And: Does the 16mm use a linear motor for AF or an older (slower, more noisy) system?
  16. I'm having a weird anomaly with my x-t1 (and also my x-100). When I shoot in CL or CH, the files are out of order for the RAW and JPGS. I wonder if the cameras process them in a random order which messes with the metadata time stamp. I often use long strings of images in a sort of stop motion effect for video and having to sort these manually for hundreds or thousands of files is beyond tedious. Has anyone else had this issue? I've updated all firmware, tried various sd cards and I still run into the issue. Thanks for any tips/advice- Drew
  17. I am considering buying a used x-t1 for 730 euro, and have therefore read a lot of reviews online. Most come to the same conclusion, but Imaging Resource also states that there is an "Significant viewfinder lag for burst shooting". They did not test the camera with firmware 4.0, so my question is, has this been fixed in version 4.0 or later? Best, Peter
  18. Hi, I have been given the opportunity to buy a used x-t1 for 730 euro. Rather okay price right? Looks like it is in excellent shape. Or should I wait for the x-t2 (and obviously pay more) with no more waxy high iso jpegs, higher resolution and new x processor? I already own the x100t, and while I like the image quality (which should be exactly the same as x-t1) I find the AF to be rather slow. Best, Peter
  19. Shot with the X-T1, XF90mm, XF16mm and XF35mm f/2 - all taken at one of my recent photoshoots. See more in the gallery here... http://www.mmaddock.co.uk/Zoe-March-1-Colour-Graded/n-9DFn2w/
  20. Hello! This is my first post here. I'm an enthusiast and recently got an X-T1 Graphite and the 35mm/1.4 lens, which I absolutely adore so far. While I love the 35 for everyday shooting (mostly street, casual, environmental portraits, etc), I just took a trip out west to Oregon to go camping and found myself a bit limited by the FOV for nature/landscape/astrophotography and often had to shoot vertically to compensate. While I was able to take some nice shots (see below), I realized I would like to complement my 35 with something wider to give me more range— I've narrowed it down to the following options: 14mm 2.8, 16mm 1.4, and the 10-24mm f/4. I guess what I'm looking for is image quality and character, and versatility/practicality. Size and weight are a consideration, but I tried the 10-24 and 16mm in person and neither felt too crazy heavy or unbalanced with my X-T1. Budget isn't really an issue either. I'm leaning towards the 16mm (due to reviews I've seen, the sharpness, 1.4, and the weather sealing) or the 10-24 (due to the versatility and the fact it hits a lot of great FOV's, image quality, and IS). What would you recommend? Thanks! Trevor
  21. Hello! I have somewhat a trivial question but its bothering me. I purchased a refurbished X-T1 and also bought a third-party hotshoe cover to go with it. It fit perfectly, but I had to return the camera because the box was not sealed properly and the sensor was not clean. It clearly had been opened before, and after speaking directly with Fujifilm they said that this was not up to their standards. Today I received a replacement. Box was sealed and everything looked great. But the same hotshoe cover that I used on the previous body does not fit. It is too loose and falls right out, when on the previous body it fit snug. Thoughts? Did they ever modify the hotshoe on newer models of the X-T1? Could something be wrong? Not a big deal but I'm perplexed.
  22. From the album: Photographing Cuba in B&W

    Shot in Cuba with Fuji X-T1. Developed in Lightroom 5 and NIK Silver Effects Pro.

    © David Julian

  23. I'm considering upgrading my trusty X-T1, and I'm strongly considering the X-T20 over the X-T2 due to the cost savings. I'm not going to miss the better video, as I don't shoot video. I don't think I'm going to miss the weather sealing. I am a little concerned about the smaller EVF. Anybody else made this move? thoughts? thanks!
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