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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/12/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    unfortunately not exactly. I was looking for a similar feature, but where it would save focus preferences, eye detect being on / off. Metering mode, WB settings etc etc. I don't think it is something which can be done on the X-T or X-H series but looks possible on the new S10 Thanks
  2. 2 points

    Mount Adaptor Setting

    This stores the value you entered into the EXIF data. That can be useful if at some point in the future you want to remind yourself which focal length (lens) you used to get that image. Additionally, if your raw converter allows you to use custom lens profiles during the conversion process, this information already being in the data can save you some time by selecting the appropriate one for you. The lens profile can contain information regarding how much vignetting the lens has for a given f-stop, how flat or fish-eyed a lens is, etc. Many raw converters have some generic profiles they use for lens that cover a wide variety of settings. It does no harm to leave it empty, filling it in and remembering to use may give you some extra options.
  3. 1 point
    Dear members and visitors, I have the same problem with steveblue and after I read all of your posts I finally concluded. I just wrote a friendly table, so everyone can read and understand it, with real examples. I can't cover all combinations but those I have tried is enough to understand your needs for your case and to apply them for the best solution: Apple Computers Memory Cards Compatibility Card Reader (internal or external) new + OS new Card Reader (internal or external) old + OS new Card Reader (internal or external) new + OS old Card Reader (internal or external) old + OS old SD card old OK OK OK OK SD card new OK FAIL OK OK SD card old is like 32 GB (FAT32) simple or less (<=2015) SD card mid (old / new) is like 64 GB simple / 64 GB Pro&stuff (2015-2016) SD card new is like 128 GB (ExFAT) Lexar 1000x Pro or better (>=2016) Card Reader External old is like USB 2.0 (<=2015) Card Reader Internal old is like iMac late 2013 or older Card Reader External new is like USB 3.0 and newer or USB 2.0 but new chipset/generation (>=2016) Card Reader Internal new is like Mac Book Pro Mid 2015 or newer OS old is like El Capitan, maybe Sierra/High Sierra and older OS new is like Majoave, Catalina, Big Sur and newer.
  4. 1 point

    Looking for a XF series prime lens

    On Flickr there is a group called “Fuji XF 50mm F2.0”, have a look what the pics look like.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Peters Dad

    X-E4 Rumor

    Ah yes, thank you jaxphotocat... Agreed, I forgot to mention the X-E4 needs the 26 MP sensor. I put a case on my old X-E1and a thumb rest to create a better grip. I'm a big guy with big hands. Sure like the compactness of the X-E series over the XPro-3. Interesting thought about full-frame X100.
  7. 1 point

    XF 18-55 mm Motion Blur

    George!!! I tried to keep it brief, I thought you would have more to say.
  8. 1 point

    Looking for a XF series prime lens

    Thanks so much George _p. I appreciate your cogent information. I think I may go for the lighter 50mm. It is probably best for my intended uses. Thank you for taking time for the detailed and helpful feedback.
  9. 1 point

    Looking for a XF series prime lens

    Allen, Which car is "better" ? A Porsche, a Land Cruiser or the 5 ? I mean, it is not a question of better or worse, it is a question of better for a certain purpose. The 50 f1.0 is rather extreme, in DOF, price, size, weight, speed (low light capability). For the vast majority of normal photos I would argue the f2 is just as good and also small, light, inobtrusive and great value for the price. It focuses very fast, is sharp and WR. DOF at f2 (e.g. for portraits) is shallow enough for me. Maybe you have more extreme needs than I do so you have to decide based on that. I would refuse to make a general statement as to which of the 50 f1.0 / f1.2 / f2 is "better". For me the f2 is better. Go to a shop and try them out if you can. Good luck ! Let us know how you fared. Cheers
  10. 1 point

    landscapes with fuji x

    Tracks and Trees:
  11. 1 point

    XE-3 sale?

    If that was a third sale and there's still none of X-E3 there now, probably yes. And certainly, X-T3 is the best alternative to X-E3 for $1K. But still I'd really love to see the 4th model to have something more compact in my pocket
  12. 1 point

    File numbers

    Its doubtful that the camera is doing this. More likely the software you are using to move or process the files.
  13. 1 point
    carlo macchiavello


    Happy to be here, i hope to be of help and be helped
  14. 1 point
    Olaf W.

    Introduce Yourself

    Welcome to our forum. Hope you find a solution for the viewfinder issue in the other thread.
  15. 1 point

    Trains (open thread)

  16. 1 point

    Trains (open thread)

    somewhere in North Dakota...
  17. 1 point
    Olaf W.

    X-PRO3 framing guideline in OVF

    Switch between the display modes while looking through the viewfinder, your setting should appear.
  18. 1 point
    M Wales

    landscapes with fuji x

    X-Pro3 & 16 2.8
  19. 1 point
    Olaf W.

    Fuji X: Tips & Tricks

    A lot of hints concerning the Fuji X Cameras can be found in this and other forums. Some are given as answers to questions others are posted as results of just exploring the cameras. Not everything is printed in the manual or is at least not to be found there easily. On the other side, these hints are not quickly accessible since they are hidden inside (long) threads. Beginning now, we will pick up hints from different sources and place them in this special thread which will be complemented from time to time. We are sure this will help everyone using their Fuji X cameras. Please leave us feedback or additional hints to add to our collection. Thanks to everyone who gave these hints in threads of our forum. As far as possible, these hints are verified using an X-T2 or an X100F. AFL Button not working If the AFL (Autofokus Lock) Button does not show any response it is most likely due to active face recognition. Disable face recognition and AF-L will work again. Shutter not working with adapted lens Inside the menu there is a setting SHOOT WITHOUT LENS. Turn it on to shoot with an adapted lens. Flash not working Most likely the electronic shutter has been activated. Only the mechanical shutter supports flashing. Go to the menu setting SHUTTER TYPE and select MS or MS+ES (on some models it might be necessary to select MS). Can’t select ISO100 Another issue when using the electronic shutter, ISO setting starts with 200. Use the mechanical shutter for ISO100. Generally, it is not recommended to use ISO100, since the sensor is designed for ISO200 (I will spare you the technical details). Rather dim the light reaching the sensor by using the ND filter wich is implemented on many models, or use an attachable ND filter. Bands in the photo or fringed edges on moving targets The electronic shutter is responsible here, too. Using it can result in interferences with some light sources and give you banding in your photos. The banding is not necessarily visible in the viewfinder or on the display. Rather use the mechanical shutter when shooting with artificial light. Another issue of the electronic shutter is called „rolling shutter effect“. To put it simple, it takes too long to read out the complete sensor while objects are moving fast. Again, use the mechanical shutter with fast moving objects, e.g. when doing sports photography. If you need to dim the light reaching the sensor to go get slower (mechanical) shutter speeds use attachable ND filters and/or the built in ND filter. Autofocus not working anymore If the little red box resists to become green even though there is definitely enough light for the autofocus system, there are two possibilities: The little switch on the front (on the side of the X100) is set to M (manual focus). Switch it to S or C. The lens stopped working properly (autofocus function crashed somehow). Put the little switch to M and back so S or C and most likely the lens will work properly again. Alternatively, switch the camera off and on, but this will take more time than the first procedure. Locking D-Pad and Q button Press and hold the MENU/OK button until a lock symbol and ON appear. This locks the D-Pad and the Q button. All other buttons are still operational, even the D-Pad works when you go the the menu. To reactivate D-Pad and Q button press and hold MENU/OK again until the lock symbol and OFF appear. If you own an X-H1 you can configure the buttons which will be locked using LOCK SETTING inside the menu. Deactivating the annoying Q-Button On some models the Q button is placed quite adversely so you might press it accidentally. Just deactivate it using the procedure described above (lock cursor buttons and Q button). Until now only with the X-H1, you can disable just the Q button with the LOCK SETTING. The viewfinder is not working / the display is not working Most likely you pushed the button VIEW MODE. It’s quite easy doing so accidentally on some models. This results in changing the default behaviour, which is switching between viewfinder and display automatically (using an eye sensor next to the viewfinder). So, if the viewfinder or the display seems not to be working tip the button VIEW MODE until an eye symbol and SENSOR appear on the display or viewfinder, respectively. And be careful not to trigger the eye sensor with your hand during this procedure (as a left handed person, this happens to me all the time). The camera appears to be dead If your camera doesn’t do anything after switching it on and the battery is definitely charged you may have loaded a defective or incompatible SD card. Unload the card(s) and try to switch the camera on. If the camera is working now servicing is most likely not necessary, just use another card. Another option is to remove the battery and wait for about half a minute before putting it back in. Try without inserted SD-Card first. If it works the camera just needed a kind of reset, like other computers do 😉 Dead or stuck pixels If the viewfinder or the display (or the resulting photos) show some dead (black) or stuck (coloured) pixels, they should be gone after a while since the camera is doing a pixel remapping by itself from time to time. You can also start the remapping process from the menu on recent models. If the stuck or dead pixels resist this process servicing is needed. However, not all models do support pixel remapping. Indicator lamp blinks green and orange after shot Probably you have IMAGE DISPLAY set to Continuous. Change the setting in the Menu under SCREEN SETTING. If you'd like to add or correct something, feel free to comment.
  20. 1 point

    landscapes with fuji x

    Fuji Finepix 2980
  21. 1 point

    landscapes with fuji x

    ... DSCF5606 by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr X-H1 + Minolta 35-70/3.5 MD
  22. 1 point

    landscapes with fuji x

    Blau ... Blau ... by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr X-H1 + XF 55-200
  23. 1 point

    Show histogram

    Just switch EVF mode by looking through it and press "DISP BACK" button for constant histogram ALso make sure to turn on SCREEN SET-UP > DISP.CUSTOM SETTING > HISTOGRAM
  24. 1 point

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    Barcelona morning break,Spain 2014 #X100s #matuskicka
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