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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/18/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Fujipixie

    black and white (open thread)

    First post, lets see if I can do this...
  2. 2 points
    M Wales

    landscapes with fuji x

    X-Pro3 & 16 2.8
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    PAE

    black and white (open thread)

    Lost shoe XS-1
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    George_P

    Boats, ships & Ocean liner (OPEN TOPIC)

    Thanks a lot. I am OK, just too busy recently. I'd like to help you out here a bit. Got some more boats for you, but I ain't got no water !
  7. 1 point
    jerryy

    Boats, ships & Ocean liner (OPEN TOPIC)

    That depends, what does the plaque say? 😃 otherwise, good catch! It is good to see your photos again, I hope things are going well for you.
  8. 1 point
    Olaf W.

    Hello all

    Welcome to our forum
  9. 1 point
    jerryy

    Boats, ships & Ocean liner (OPEN TOPIC)

    Second curtain shutter: This one is not the typical long exposure night time boat photo: I think I must have pressed the cable shutter release button while moving the tripod, but it turned out okay .
  10. 1 point
    Hey guys, So, I used the XH-1 to shoot a short film last year and it felt just right for a low budget film, that is shot in natural light, little time and only a tripod for stabilization. Really was drawn to the ETERNA, film simulation that was said to be ideal for shooting movies. I found the low contrast it provided - allowed more flexibility in post, i color corrected in Premiere which has its own library of film stocks to apply. But, I will enjoyed the look it provided - especially given it's a DSLR and not a camcorder. With that, you still face the highlights being blown out when you are shooting alongside a window. But, that can be sort of fixed in post. In summation, I'd say this could be a long term example of what can work on low budget projects. p.s. really liked the lens as well - it allowed me to of course maintain focus on my actors even when I was in really tight/close settings. any thoughts or comments, please let me know - i am very open to feedback
  11. 1 point
    Keep the X-Pro...the X100V is the "it girl" of compact mirrorless rangefinders, but even with all the upgrades, it does not give you the option to change lenses, you can't use filters (without a $70 adapter) and it is still a leaf shutter, so no bokeh with fast shutter speeds (unless you like smeared blur). The X-Pro 3, while certainly is not pretty or pocketable, offers much more versatility now and in the future - it is the less attractive but more useful older sibling.
  12. 1 point
    jerryy

    Winter Landscapes

    A closer view of winter's constellation (Orion):
  13. 1 point
    FuJiC

    Howdy, Y'all

    Long time Nikon shooter(professionally for 10 years, retired from that) who hasn't really had much motivation to shoot the last few years. Burnt out? Decided to ditch the old gear and get myself a little Fuji kit - X-T2, 23/2, 35/1.4 and am once again feeling excited about shooting personal photos and projects. My only experience with Fuji was several years ago when I owned a X100 for two or so years but I do recall really enjoying that. Hoping to pop in here from time to time.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    m_schlonz

    Milky Way in Southafrica

    20190926-Südafrika_XT2-652 by Martin, auf Flickr
  16. 1 point
    x-t30 + 35 f2
  17. 1 point
    archidss

    Bought an x-pro3, want an x100v

    I have a X-PRO3 and would not part with it and the advantage of being able to use other lenses than the 23mm which is my most used field of view as it was on my Leica M9. I would most certainly never replace it with with the X100V for the only advantage of thr smaller size (the X- PRO3 osn't all that big) I just might submit to the temptation of getting a X100V nest to the X-PRO3, but fear it will all too often be left behind and taking 2 bodies on a trip is for me a no go
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    mdm

    Bought an x-pro3, want an x100v

    I use 27mm a lot and it's one of my favourite lens, at the same time I don't like 23mm FL at all, so X100 is just not for me. Do check it first.
  20. 1 point
    Omar Alamoudi

    Good afternoon from Cyprus

    Welcome to the forum @Akritas, I'm new here too, and I share with you, and with many other members this forum, the main attraction of the Fujifilm X-Series size and very attractive looks! TL;DR: any X-Series camera (including the older, significantly more affordable ones) + XF35mm is a great place to start. I am a hobbyist as well, and used to shoot Nikon (D90 then D7000). I "converted" to Fujifilm in 2015 when I bought the X-T1 with the 18-55mm kit lens. My love to the X system has since grown. And the bulky Nikon system is gone. I carry my X-T1 camera everywhere, I sometimes annoy myself carrying it around without the finding the ability to use it. But it is one of those things: you use it once, you love it, and you carry it around everywhere because you don't want to miss an opportunity to use it. I recently bought the X100F, because why not. Actually, for two reasons. The first one is that I wanted to experience the liberty of limiting my choice (rolling eyes). The second reason was the even smaller form factor. Let me explain. I love my X-T1, and my favorite lens is, hands down, the 35mm f/1.4. But since I have 4 other primes, its takes me sometime to decide which prime to take with me. So eliminating that choice by the fixed lens X100F is kinda liberating. So, is buying the X100F worth it? Well, after using the X100F for a few days, I realized that I have an almost equivalent focal length XF lens, the 27mm pancake lens that I can use with my X-T1. So the question became, will an X-T1 + 27mm pancake lens be comparable in size with the X100F? The answer is YES. So I sold the X100F, and started using the X-T1 + 27mm pancake lens until the XF27mm failed, now I'm back to the game of wasting time deciding which of my primes to take with me lol. However, I find myself falling back on using the X-T1 + 35mm f/1.4 more than the rest of my lens due to its size, focal length, weight, and quality of images. My XF primes are: 35mm f/1.4 56mm f/1.2 27mm f/2.8 90mm f/2.0 23mm f/1.4
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Olaf W.

    Fuji X: Tips & Tricks

    A lot of hints concerning the Fuji X Cameras can be found in this and other forums. Some are given as answers to questions others are posted as results of just exploring the cameras. Not everything is printed in the manual or is at least not to be found there easily. On the other side, these hints are not quickly accessible since they are hidden inside (long) threads. Beginning now, we will pick up hints from different sources and place them in this special thread which will be complemented from time to time. We are sure this will help everyone using their Fuji X cameras. Please leave us feedback or additional hints to add to our collection. Thanks to everyone who gave these hints in threads of our forum. As far as possible, these hints are verified using an X-T2 or an X100F. AFL Button not working If the AFL (Autofokus Lock) Button does not show any response it is most likely due to active face recognition. Disable face recognition and AF-L will work again. Shutter not working with adapted lens Inside the menu there is a setting SHOOT WITHOUT LENS. Turn it on to shoot with an adapted lens. Flash not working Most likely the electronic shutter has been activated. Only the mechanical shutter supports flashing. Go to the menu setting SHUTTER TYPE and select MS or MS+ES (on some models it might be necessary to select MS). Can’t select ISO100 Another issue when using the electronic shutter, ISO setting starts with 200. Use the mechanical shutter for ISO100. Generally, it is not recommended to use ISO100, since the sensor is designed for ISO200 (I will spare you the technical details). Rather dim the light reaching the sensor by using the ND filter wich is implemented on many models, or use an attachable ND filter. Bands in the photo or fringed edges on moving targets The electronic shutter is responsible here, too. Using it can result in interferences with some light sources and give you banding in your photos. The banding is not necessarily visible in the viewfinder or on the display. Rather use the mechanical shutter when shooting with artificial light. Another issue of the electronic shutter is called „rolling shutter effect“. To put it simple, it takes too long to read out the complete sensor while objects are moving fast. Again, use the mechanical shutter with fast moving objects, e.g. when doing sports photography. If you need to dim the light reaching the sensor to go get slower (mechanical) shutter speeds use attachable ND filters and/or the built in ND filter. Autofocus not working anymore If the little red box resists to become green even though there is definitely enough light for the autofocus system, there are two possibilities: The little switch on the front (on the side of the X100) is set to M (manual focus). Switch it to S or C. The lens stopped working properly (autofocus function crashed somehow). Put the little switch to M and back so S or C and most likely the lens will work properly again. Alternatively, switch the camera off and on, but this will take more time than the first procedure. Locking D-Pad and Q button Press and hold the MENU/OK button until a lock symbol and ON appear. This locks the D-Pad and the Q button. All other buttons are still operational, even the D-Pad works when you go the the menu. To reactivate D-Pad and Q button press and hold MENU/OK again until the lock symbol and OFF appear. If you own an X-H1 you can configure the buttons which will be locked using LOCK SETTING inside the menu. Deactivating the annoying Q-Button On some models the Q button is placed quite adversely so you might press it accidentally. Just deactivate it using the procedure described above (lock cursor buttons and Q button). Until now only with the X-H1, you can disable just the Q button with the LOCK SETTING. The viewfinder is not working / the display is not working Most likely you pushed the button VIEW MODE. It’s quite easy doing so accidentally on some models. This results in changing the default behaviour, which is switching between viewfinder and display automatically (using an eye sensor next to the viewfinder). So, if the viewfinder or the display seems not to be working tip the button VIEW MODE until an eye symbol and SENSOR appear on the display or viewfinder, respectively. And be careful not to trigger the eye sensor with your hand during this procedure (as a left handed person, this happens to me all the time). The camera appears to be dead If your camera doesn’t do anything after switching it on and the battery is definitely charged you may have loaded a defective or incompatible SD card. Unload the card(s) and try to switch the camera on. If the camera is working now servicing is most likely not necessary, just use another card. Another option is to remove the battery and wait for about half a minute before putting it back in. Try without inserted SD-Card first. If it works the camera just needed a kind of reset, like other computers do 😉 Dead or stuck pixels If the viewfinder or the display (or the resulting photos) show some dead (black) or stuck (coloured) pixels, they should be gone after a while since the camera is doing a pixel remapping by itself from time to time. You can also start the remapping process from the menu on recent models. If the stuck or dead pixels resist this process servicing is needed. However, not all models do support pixel remapping. Indicator lamp blinks green and orange after shot Probably you have IMAGE DISPLAY set to Continuous. Change the setting in the Menu under SCREEN SETTING. If you'd like to add or correct something, feel free to comment.
  23. 1 point
    Jose Carpin

    "Yangon Circular Railway"

    "Yangon Circular Railway" Yangon, Myanmar 2017 Fuji X-T2 + XF16mm f1.4 R WR + XF35mm f1.4 Instagram: jose_carpin_photographer Website: www.josecarpin.com 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
  24. 1 point
    The XP1 is still good, it's just slow to use compared to the XP2. I don't just mean AF/menu usage/Fn buttons/Card write times.... But the lower res EVF non-coloured focus peaking is slower to confirm critical focus with... the XP1 is perfectly capable of getting things in focus, you just might need to take a little longer to ensure it has. The XP1 is also a classic, the first of something new! The XP2 is better in all tangible metrics, but once the XP3 lands no one's gonna get dewy eyed over the XP2 (OT, but it's the same with the Leica Ms. The M8 was the first of the digital Leica rangefinders, the M9 was the first FF one. They're classics with a cult following. Then the 240 came out, which was technically better. Then the M10 came out and no one cares about the 240 any more... I'm guessing the same fate awaits the M10 when ever the M11 lands!)
  25. 1 point
    Meanderingtree

    black and white (open thread)

    Loneliness
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Fusion

    black and white (open thread)

    X Pro2 + 23mm f2. Great BW possible with this combination
  29. 1 point
    mdm

    black and white (open thread)

    these last winter days X-E2 + 35f2
  30. 1 point
    PAE

    black and white (open thread)

    XT1 & Olympus 50/1.8
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    TClair

    black and white (open thread)

    Shot with X-T2... FXT27425-IX-2m5tmr by tac650, on Flickr
  34. 1 point
    KirillSokolov

    Portraiture work, running topic

    T2 + 56 DSCF9058-Edit by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr DSCF9214-Edit by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr DSCF9318-Edit by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr
  35. 1 point
    bergat

    black and white (open thread)

    Natura nuda X100
  36. 1 point
    PascallacsaP

    Portraiture work, running topic

    X-Pro2 + Mitakon 35mm mkII @ f/0.95 Another eyes session 1 by Pascal van Gerven, on Flickr Eyes session 1 by Pascal van Gerven, on Flickr
  37. 1 point
    KirillSokolov

    Portraiture work, running topic

    Fujifilm X-T2 + Fujinon 56/1.2 DSCF5895 by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr DSCF9192 by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr DSCF9371 by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr DSCF6018 by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr
  38. 1 point
    KirillSokolov

    Portraiture work, running topic

    T2 + 56 DSCF9345 by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr
  39. 1 point
    PAE

    black and white (open thread)

    XT1 & XF23/2
  40. 1 point

    From the album: X-E3

    For use on promoting "Brings and Joys" band.

    © (C)apaisuwan,samatcha

  41. 1 point
    milandro

    black and white (open thread)

    Sexy wooden shape
  42. 1 point
    Mike-Photos

    black and white (open thread)

    Webbed Feet on Ice:
  43. 1 point
    larsleion

    black and white (open thread)

    Hi. Somewhat new to the game:) Here are two from a walk I did this weekend. Both SOOC jpegs, shot on my X-E2 with the 23mm f/1.4. more shots here, if interested: http://leion.no lars (edit: reposting the files, as the uploader butchered them previously. sorry if I messed up again and they're too big)
  44. 1 point
    2CV6

    black and white (open thread)

    US Car Convention Ausfahrt by Fabian J., auf Flickr out of the light by Fabian J., auf Flickr Wroclaw bridge by Fabian J., auf Flickr
  45. 1 point
    Cornelson

    black and white (open thread)

    Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
  46. 1 point
    Cfr

    black and white (open thread)

    took this down the road from my house, using a hoya r72 infrared filter. I stitched a few shots together to get this since i had on the 56mm at the time. the 56mm is not great with infrared and makes bright spots in the middle of the frame.. since it is a panoramic shot there are several light spots across the middle, which actually ended up helping the lighting of the shot as if i burned them in on purpose. I did some editing but looking at it cant remember what i did and what was a mistake.
  47. 1 point
    use4711

    black and white (open thread)

    this are one of the Gerry houses in Düsseldorf.
  48. 1 point
    use4711

    black and white (open thread)

    I hope rainbow in B&W is okey as well
  49. 1 point
    vman

    Fuji Birds

    First post in Nature and Wildlife Lost in Lavenders - Hummingbirds in Flight Fuji XT1, Fujinon lens 55-200, Firmware 4.0, 1/1600, f/4.8, ISO Auto, continuous focus, high speed frame rate, wide tracking focus setting option.
  50. 1 point
    hollyghollyg

    Fuji Birds

    Female ruby throated hummingbird shot through my kitchen window. Fuji xt10, 55-200. ISO 400, 190mm, f 4.8, 1/1300, -67 ev
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