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JRphoto last won the day on January 30 2020

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  1. 1) Setup Menu -> Button/Dial Setting -> Lock -> Lock Setting -> Selected Function 2) Setup Menu -> Button/Dial Setting -> Lock -> Function Selection -> Q Button I can't imagine nothing easier!...
  2. It is interesting to notice that using lens with focus clutch mecanism (2,8/14, 1.4/16, 1.4/23), setting X-T1 to manual focus and leaving the clutch mecanism in AF, you can back button focus (BBF) with the AF-L button (you can change this to the AE-L button using the menu, if you want), the shutter will not refocus, and there is no risk to accidentally change the focus manually. So, with these lenses you can have the BBF experience with AF-S but not with AF-C (but the AF-C in the X-T1 is not great anyway). Edited: yes, you can have the BBF experience with AF-C also: you just need to go to Autofocus Setting --> Instant AF Setting and set this to AF-C.
  3. "Seems like the WB is slighly different on 1st and 2nd. Is this because I had the WB on AUTO and it selected slightly warmer tone for some reason on the second shot?" Yes, exactly! WB on Auto changes at its will, depending on the framed scene. If you don't want this to happen, you have to fix the WB value. This is also recommended for timelapses, for example.
  4. I thought in this possibility: are you using Adobe RGB in place of sRGB (Setup Menu -> Color Space) ?
  5. I suggest you try setting the RED EYE REMOVAL (under 5th shooting menu) to OFF.
  6. Menu -> White Balance -> Auto -> Now you are at the "WB SHIFT" screen: you have two axis, more yellow or more blue, and more green or more red. Mine is set to R=1 and B=-1.
  7. 1) 16mm f/1.4 2) 27mm f/2.8 3) 35mm f/1.4 4) 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6
  8. Did you see this thread? http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/169-samyang-12mm-f20-ncs-cs-x-mount/
  9. In general I love the fuji firmware policy. But some Fuji cameras receive more firmware love than other Fuji cameras... So, a bit of chance may involve this firmware issue.
  10. Sorry, but this is not true, at least for X-T1 and EF-X8. I just tested using the XF 16mm f/1.4.
  11. I just tested the little EF-X8 flash on the X-T1 and it only behaves as you describe when RED EYE REMOVAL is ON (note that red-eye removal only works if FACE DETECTION under AUTOFOCUS SETTING is also ON). Anyway, at page 37 of the X-T1 manual, on reads: "Except in commander mode, the flash may fire several times with each shot. Do not move the camera until shooting is complete." What really intrigued me is that you're saying you can only find the flash modes red eye reducion and commander. In first place, if you're seeing RED EYE REDUCTION in FLASH MODE menu, it means that RED EYE REMOVAL is ON, and FACE DETECTION is also ON! In second place, in any shooting mode I see in FLASH MODE menu the options FORCED FLASH, 2ND CURTAIN SYNC, COMMANDER and SUPRESSED FLASH; under aperture-priority shooting mode, there is also SLOW SYNC (or RED EYE & SLOW) option available; when the shutter-speed and aperture are in "A" (P mode), AUTO (or RED EYE REDUCTION) option is also available, exactly as you can read in the manual at page 133. I hope this helps!
  12. Anyway, if you want the official fuji link, then: http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/procedure_lens.html
  13. Could you please tell us about the applicability and results using the combination in the photo: MCEX-11 + XF 1.4X TC + XF 60mm f2.4 Have you tried with another lenses? Thanks!
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