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BobJ last won the day on July 20

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  1. Many strobes can act as slaves They can be triggered by the light of the on camera flash.
  2. The 18-55 f2.8. You should be able to find one secondhand.
  3. Sorry, I was wrong. I just tried downloading the firmware for the 16-55. It is zipped and the instruction is to unzip it. Once this is done there is a folder with the two files inside. The question is should you put the folder on the card or should you open the folder and just copy the two files on? The Fuji instructions do not help, so I guess try both. As the instructions on the Fuji download site does not mention opening the folder up, I would try putting the intact folder on first. unfortunately I don't have the 16-55, so I can't try it out.
  4. Bear in mind that the Fuji 100-400 is a monster when compared to the 70-300. Personally, for travelling, I would choose the 70-300 despite its more modest max aperture.
  5. Unfortunately it's not possible to recommend just one strength of filter. You will probably need several. However, to start with, try an nd64. I would stay clear of variables. The cheap ones should definitely be avoided. Also, they don't work very well with wide angle lenses. Something to bear in mind in case you buy such a lens in the future.
  6. It looks to me that the test shots were underexposed. Maybe the exposure compensation was set. Noise is absolutely tied to exposure.
  7. This is a strange problem indeed. The only thing I can think of is to use a different computer, or try the Xapp method. I have an x-t5 and have not encountered this problem. The clue might be in your mention of zipped files. If memory serves me, the downloaded file is not zipped and does not need unpacking. I am pretty sure that there will be only one file too. I will try downloading later today to see if I am correct.
  8. I assume you have formatted both cards in the camera. Try that again anyway. You may have a faulty card, even though it is new. Do you have some alternative cards, or can borrow some? What does the error message say?
  9. I have owned quite a few cameras over many years (I am 74 and had my first camera aged 18). Apart from accidents I have had the following problems. The metering in my SRT101 failed. My Minolta xd7 suffered from peeling leatherette, but otherwise was my favourite camera ever. My Mamiya 645 1000d 80mm lens developed sticking aperture leaves. My Mamiya 645 Super shutter failed spectacularly- shutter blinds hanging out! My Minolta Dynax7D battery cover became impossible to latch and I had to tape it up to prevent the battery falling out. My Fuji X-T1 flash sync failed and I had the main board replaced under warranty. My X- T3 developed a faulty exposure compensation dial and I had to pay for that one. Probably not bad for 56 years of photography!
  10. Hello FujiBiker. Welcome. I am a fellow photo dinosaur (the grandchildren are convinced that they were around when I was young) from the West Midlands.
  11. The 16-80 should be sharper as it is a 5 to 1 zoom as opposed to a 7.5 to 1. But if the results from your 18-135 meet your needs I would stick with it.
  12. I have just tried this with my X-T5. The test photo gave 4500k. It really depends on what you call 'daylight'. Depending on the weather, time of year and time of day it can cover a wide range of temperatures. I guess Fuji decided that something a little warmer suits the average person better, so they changed it.
  13. I have just looked at my X-T2. Yes, the peak highlights are hidden in the T2, when the first pressure is taken, as opposed to the T5. The viewfinder information is partially cleared in both cameras and appears to be the same to me. I don't know of a way to alter the behavior.
  14. I have tried both. Stilck with Lightroom and enjoy the much better file management and the new automatic masking, not to mention that you also get Photoshop. If you are worried about worms, buy the cheap X Transformer and run the files through that first. The reason why files look better in C1 before being tweaked is a difference in philosophy. Adobe give you a flat looking result that can be changed manually or with any of the Fujifilm presets, or indeed a preset of your own (which can be applied automaticallyon import). Whereas C1 give you something that they think you might like.
  15. Are you sure that you have the correct file? Format the card in the camera and go back to the Fuji site to download a fresh file.
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