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BobJ

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BobJ last won the day on August 17

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  1. I don't know for sure but I would say it is paranoia. Certainly with the weather resistant cameras it couldn't be a problem could it? Your phone is probably sealed against moisture and can be immersed. They generally meet the IP68 standard. There is obviously no problem with their mic and speaker ports and I would imagine that the same port engineering would be used on the XT etc cameras.
  2. The sensor glass is what is exposed. It is anti-reflection coated and is quite easily damaged. Hence why you have to be careful when you clean it. If it comes into contact with anything hard you will know about it!
  3. I wouldn't do this. You only need to touch the sensor surface with the edge of the filter and your camera will become an ornament.
  4. I can't see your image of this (too small, at least on the tablet I am using at the moment). Generally speaking though, it's common to have the odd scratch where someone hasn't been too careful when changing the lens.
  5. Surely there isn't any point, as when you put a half pressure on the shutter release the lens stops down to is working aperture and so you get the same function.
  6. Thanks to your kind replies I am convinced that it's not right. There is a photo show coming next month and Fuji will be there. I should be able to see their copy and talk to them. Then I will send it for repair.
  7. What exposure shift? I just tried my 16-80 and my 70-300 on a large white card, so that the metered scene did not change with the zoom. I also used a fixed manual focus distance as exposure may vary slightly with focus distance due to the extra extension - that's normal for any lens. The 70-300 is a variable aperture lens so with apertures wider than f5.6 the exposure will vary. I tried it at f5.6. neither lens shows any exposure variation.
  8. So this is interesting. I contacted Fuji support in the UK and they told me that the play is normal for this lens.
  9. This is quite normal. It's the focusing lens group moving. A linear motor is used to drive the group and when the power is off it is free to move around.
  10. Many thanks for your replies guys. Looks like a trip to the repair centre for the lens.
  11. My 16-80 has an annoying characteristic. The extending part of the lens barrel wobbles. When fully extended to the 80mm position the front of the lens has approx. 1.5 to 2mm play. This doesn't sound much but if examined in the viewfinder it is disconcerting to say the least. Apart from possible effect on the resolution I am worried, that if out in high winds, the lens will wobble about during the exposure, especially if a lens hood is fitted. My 70-300, despite having a much longer extension doesn't suffer with this problem. My question is, is this the same on other examples or do I have a faulty lens? P.S. The 16-80 needs a zoom lock. When the camera is carried on a strap it 'trombones' every time. The 70-300 has one but doesn't seem to need it!
  12. I was using OEM batteries. In my case the problem was traced to a faulty SD card.
  13. You are comparing a 4.3x zoom with a 16.5x. The 70-300 is a very sharp lens and considering how difficult it gets to make a zoom lens perform as the zoom ratio increases, I would be very surprised indeed if the Tamron can compete with the Fuji on sharpness .
  14. I can't say that the sd card is the cause in your case but I had intermittent freezes which turned out to be a faulty Lexar card. Note that you will have to replace both cards to try it as one card will hang both. I don't buy Lexar cards any more.
  15. Stick with Lightroom and buy X-Transformer (cheap). Use X-Transformer to convert the raws to DNG raw. You will find that your worms are gone. I believe that camera specific versions of C1 have been discontinued.
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