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BobJ

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BobJ last won the day on March 8

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  1. Try making sure that you are in zone or wide mode. Also try turning off eye detect (although I think it should work with that on). By the way, it is possible to set the joystick so that when you press it and rotate the rear dial it will go through all the focus area options. menu > AF Mode > all. If you manage to get the tracking back don't forget that there are various tracking options for different scenarios. Otherwise I don't know what is wrong.
  2. I don't see why you want to trade in the 16-80, unless you want a very shallow depth of field, in which case go for the 56mm. The 16-80 is perfectly OK for portraits and works well at f4.
  3. In my opinion raw is the way to go with any camera. It gives you a much wider range of options in post and takes advantage of the cameras full dynamic range. Then you can forget about wondering what film simulation to use and do it all afterwards. That's just me though. I understand that there are other opinions.
  4. The sensor is behind several layers of glass. There is an anti static cover glass, an infra red reject filter and the micro lenses for the sensels. Then there are the colour filters for the photodiodes. So you are not actually cleaning the sensor, only the cover glass. It is coated though, so you definitely can't use your shirt sleeve It does have an anti reflection coating but is actually quite tough. The main thing is to make sure that you blow off any loose dust before you use the swab, only use the fluid supplied with the kit and don't press hard. I have been cleaning sensors for years with no problems. Don't use those sticky pad things, they are dodgy. Most dust can be blown off with a rubber "rocket" blower. Never, never, use canned air. If the propellant gets on the glass you will never get it off, plus they are too powerful and can damage the shutter.
  5. To give a definitive answer is impossible, even if I had experience with all those cameras - who would? I know that real camera stores are thin on the ground these days, but the most important consideration is how the camera feels in your hand. You should try them out. For instance, the X-S10 is small and light and is a great camera but may be too small if you have big hands. The X-T4 has very different ergonomics, with dials and buttons. IBIS is nice to have for some photography but not nearly so important as some think. For instance, when in the city, subject movement is more likely to be a problem than camera movement. Also, as you say, many lenses have stabilisation. Another consideration is are the lenses you think you might need available within your budget and are there plenty of secondhand lenses available for the mount. There are no really bad cameras out there, just different ones.
  6. Additionally, the lightroom library module is designed for previewing and choosing. It is brilliant for that. There are lots of YouTube videos. Try Julianne Kost.
  7. Why is this an issue? It is the same for all cameras as far as I know including all film and digital slrs. You can only focus accurately with the lens at its widest aperture simply because that has the shallowest dof. Then if you want to get some indication of the dof you half press the shutter button, which is way more convenient than pressing the dof button on an slr and getting a view so dim you can't really see anything. For dof do not rely on focus peaking. It wil only give you a rough idea. Use the magnified view for that. You have to have some understanding of dof, (which varies according to how big the final image is displayed), where to focus and what aperture to use. I assume you are talking about landscape. It's not easy but It will come with experience. Take lots of photos and analyse the failures. .
  8. No, it doesn't work if you have pulled the ring to manual. The 14mm is a sharp lens by the way. You won't be disappointed.
  9. Don't worry about the shutter count. If it's working OK just use it. It's very unlikely that the shutter is worn out. I believe that 150000 actuations has been quoted for the X-T3, but that from memory. It's going to be at least 100000 though.
  10. I forgot to mention. To see the images correctly on the camera you can check some settings. Make sure that evf and lcd color are set to 0. Likewise lcd color adjustment (you can tweak these later if necessary). More importantly make sure 'natural live view' is off. These are located in the 'spanner' section under 'screen setting'.
  11. Can you describe the difference for us? What software are you using to view them on your computer? Do they look, the same on another computer and monitor or on a tablet or phone? Is your monitor calibrated? Most monitors that are not specifically made for photography are too blue and too bright out of the box. If you don't have a colorimeter, and your Images look OK on other devices, you can try adjusting the monitor using its controls.
  12. There is no such thing as wrong white balance, just one which you prefer. It's subjective. Every person sees colour differently. Not only tht but auto white balance can be fooled with scenes containing a dominant colour.
  13. 18-300 is hardly the same as 70-300 . Because of the much greater range of the 18-300 I doubt very much that it would compare with the excellent image quality of the Fuji lens but surely the first decision is whether or not you need the 18-70 component .
  14. Buy a secondhand 55-200. It5 an amazingly good lens.
  15. When focus bracketing it is unlikely that you will be dealing with fast moving subjects or flickering lights. If you set the interval to 0 you run the risk of shutter shock taking the edge off the sharpness. So electronic shutter is the way to go in most circumstances.
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