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  1. He’s wrong about all of it and I seriously doubt he used the camera. I had the X-T3, sold it for the X-T4, and 2 years later I preordered the X-H2s. I have had it since launch and here’s a quick rebuttals to that garbage review. First, the people he spoke about, saying they backed up his claims… Casey from Camera Conspiracies, only tried the pre-release and has since taken one on loan… He loves the thing now. Gerald from Gerald Undone, said the camera’s DR is excellent, Still image capture AF is awesome, and he said thanks to the noise properties he can actually make the video better quality than the A1 (that’s impressive). DPReview, said they wouldn’t rank the camera or comment on most aspects until they got a full retail version of it and that review is happening now. Second, he ignored the stacked sensor and the improved AF speed completely. Then he made assumptions based on his ignorance of the camera and how it functions. He claimed they didn’t think the design through, but his own complaints show he didn’t think it through. I had the X-T4 sitting right beside the new body for about a week… The build quality was very much on par with the X-T4 and yet he praised one while panning the other. So which is it, is the build quality of the X-T4 cheap, or is the X-H2S actually decent build quality. Then of course he tried to equate knowing the X-T4 with knowing this camera and I can tell you they could not be further apart in the way they operate and still be a Fuji body. Many of us have action photos, portraits, BIF, and animal portraits, yet he seems to proclaim it is the worst camera ever. Of course he focused on 1 thing obsessively, that’s the fact that the dials don’t have any push button capabilities. Then he also made a comment that gave away his motivation for the whole review away… Fuji wouldn’t give him a body to review, so he rented or purchased one and panned the whole camera. Oh and as for Muddy images… I set both the X-H2S and the X-T4 to the same settings and swapped the lenses from body to body. The image quality was pretty much identical, so you can ignore that garbage claim too.
    4 points
  2. Fujiron

    Pacific Grove, CA

    Incoming storm at Pacific Grove, CA. X-P1, 14mm with Hoya IR72.
    4 points
  3. Currently photographing with my XE1 and the XF18mmf2 for a personal project. Only in black and white and in 1:1 crop mode A challenge to change my perspective, learn more and see the world through different eyes @xftales
    4 points
  4. This is Flo. Flo is a very young cat. Flo is not proficient at sitting still. I am very lucky to have caught Flo looking at me with a camera in my hand. Fuji X-Pro3 - XF23mm F2 WR Processed using ART Rawconverter (Rawtherapee fork)
    4 points
  5. Percy

    Introduce Yourself

    And here’s an example of a still life (mostly as I test the adding images function).
    4 points
  6. sixtygp

    Fuji Birds

    Brown Pelican XT3 with 100-400
    4 points
  7. Hello GO I thought Ken raised a few valid points and others which were fit for the floor mounted circular filing cabinet. But they were his points as he saw them so good for him. But irrespective of his views and his 4/10 rating, I bought an X-H2S and have to say that it is an exceptional camera. It is so fast, the subject detection system is phenominal and the EVF is in a different league to any of my FujiFilm cameras. I have it side by side with my beloved X-H1, a camera that was hewn from rock, and whilst it doesn't quite have that same 'feel' of indestructability, it is superbly made and tactile wise, a level above the X-H1. What I mean by that is the controls are well damped and responsive, the shutter button is less touch sensitive (ie doesn't fire at the lightest touch), and the control wheels, whilst not clickeable, are precise. The joystick is not as well positioned as the X-H1 but as I have only had the camera for two days, it will improve as my muscle/brain memory kicks in. The extended grip is as good as, if not better than, the X-H1 and though still early days, I found the 100-400mm nicer to hold and use when on the X-H2S with or without either of the TC's. As for the charger, never got one with my X-T4 and yes it is tight of FujiFilm but I am glad that they spent the money on the sensor and the overall package. It shouldn't and didn't put me off but I see where he is coming from. PSAM is not a big deal for me, its on all my Sony's and on mylovely little X-S10 so it came natural to me. The C1-7 modes are just superb and if I had to trade the conventional dials just for this feature then I would...almost, as I still love the manual control nature of my other FujiFilm's. To be able to dial in my favourite settings and recall them at the click of a dial (and lock it should I wish) is fantastic and instant. I have a Delkin Black 150 Gb CFExpress card as well as a SanDisk Extreme SD Card. Never had a CF before, it makes the SD card seem pedestrian and even when on high speed bursts it clears the buffer immediately. I enjoyed Ken's review but I beg to differ with his conclusions and thoughts. As for muddy twixt the X-T4, I am not sure where he got that from but IQ is exactly the same as my X-T4 and X-S10 using all my FujiFilm lenses ......but many more images are 100% in focus and processed 4 x quicker than any other body. It is a cracking camera.
    3 points
  8. It's a bit hard to take what this person says seriously nowadays. I mean, he literally called Einstein a dumbass...
    3 points
  9. seriously? the camera is a piece of junk because it doesn't have a charger in the box? i guess then the only good smartphone is a cheap chinese one for having a charger and all the iphones and galaxys are crap...
    3 points
  10. Fujiron

    Fuji Birds

    Black-headed Grosbeak 1st winter. H-H1, 70-300+1.4TC.
    3 points
  11. Marooned

    Gothenburg, Sweden

    I like shadows.
    3 points
  12. jerryy

    Fuji Flowers

    3 points
  13. jlmphotos

    Pacific Grove, CA

    Love this image in B&W. I've seen similar in color but not so much in B&W. Thanks for sharing.
    3 points
  14. Napier, NZ a few years back. I had to quickly get my camera when I saw these kids walking home late at night. It look timeless but it was 2017. Not the best crop or the sharpest but at least I got the moment. @xftales
    3 points
  15. Fujiron

    Fuji Flowers

    Potato Vine, X-P2, TTArtisans 50mm F1.2@F1.2.
    3 points
  16. Fujifilm X-A1 ● TAMRON SP AF 90mm F/2.8 Macro 1:1 Model 72E ● 90mm ● F/5.6 ● 1/160s ● ISO 200
    3 points
  17. The Crow. Fujifilm XF10, conversion in Silver Efex, my own "Daido Moriyama" setting.
    3 points
  18. cpX

    The Cat Thread

    Fujifilm X-A1 ● Viltrox Lens ● 13mm ● F/1.4 ● 1/90s ● ISO 800. This is Beißer. (Biter)
    3 points
  19. I could care less how a screen does or doesn't articulate the deal breaker for me will be the rumored cost of $2,500 which is a lot for fixed income folks. I really enjoy my X-H1 and was looking forward to the 2 until i heard the price.
    3 points
  20. cpX

    Fuji Birds

    3 points
  21. Hi Urbane, A photo shot at 6246px x 4170 pixels is the same whether or not it is saved with a 72dpi or 300dpi. You can change the dpi without resampling by unclicking the Resample check box and entering the desired dpi. This will have no effect on the file resolution - just the output. Example: For the Fuji 6246px x 4170px file at 72 dots per inch (read pixels per inch) - 6246px / (72 px/inch) = 86.75 inches = 220.25 cm - 4170px / (72 px/inch) =57.52 inches = 147.11 cm If you change the dpi to 300, uncheck the Resample box the image resolution of 6246 x 4170 px will not change, only the size of the output. - 6246px / (300 px/inch) = 20.82 inches = 52.88 cm - 4170px / (300 px/inch) =13.9 inches = 35.31 cm Now, let's say you save the above image at 300dpi and send that image to a printer to print a 12in x 8in print at 300dpi, then the printer will use an internal algorithm to down sample from 20.82in x 13.9in to 12in x 8in. OR You can take control of the down sample method by changing the resolution of the image in Affinity Pro (or whatever software you use) using the dialogue box in your previous post and changing the size of the image to 12in x 8in, changing dpi to 300, clicking the resample box and selecting the resample method / algorithm then saving the image. Often, after resampling, you may find you have to sharpen the image slightly to get the best printed output - especially if you are upsampling. Taking control of the process enables you to do this rather then relying on the printer.
    3 points
  22. FX Admin

    Seasons Greetings

    Dear Forum Members and Readers, I wish you all a Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, Good Rest and a Happy New Year! Enjoy the time with your loved ones, feast and drink (in moderation) and above all: Stay healthy! Greetings from Andreas & the Moderator Team
    3 points
  23. Another vote for the XF18-55mm! It can hold its own for landscape photos. If you are really thinking you need the wide end for landscapes, sure the extra 2mm will “put more in the frame” for those mountains in the distance, but there is more to it than that, you might find that the compression you get from a telephoto lens suits you more and the wide angle lens is better for close up stuff. Another option is to buy the body-only and then get a decent used XF14mm. If you look around the used markets, you could stay in your budget range. This lens gets rave reviews from astrophotographers, and landscape folks. It is a wide prime though, so it will be a little limiting for birds in flight.
    3 points
  24. SLA

    Black Water Toad

    From the album: Nature

    3 points
  25. Dragolorticha

    The Cat Thread

    XT-30, XF18-55
    3 points
  26. SLA

    Curious Deer

    From the album: Nature

    3 points
  27. merlin

    The Cat Thread

    Artemus
    3 points
  28. MintMark

    The Cat Thread

    My cat Rivet likes playing in his box...
    3 points
  29. ramsker

    The Cat Thread

    Monte - X100S
    3 points
  30. Hello my name is Alexander i lives in Russia (now terrible times here). I have used fujifilm last 4 years and it is the same time in my photography life. I love to shoot portraits and fashion. Have used x-e1 x-t10 x-t2 x-h1 also take in rentals t3 and gfx system. I skilled to shoot with any lenses type and alot of technical equipment Now my main camera is x-h1 it is enought for professional work https://www.instagram.com/aleksandr_m.f/ https://alexandermf.myportfolio.com/
    2 points
  31. It's early days yet, but I like the X-H2s for the most part. I have two X-H1, and the X-H2s seems to be improved in more ways than it loses. I am a still photographer (retired pro), not a video shooter, so the many improvements there go right over my head. And so any opinions I have are limited as well. Reason to love this camera #1: the viewfinder is fantastic, better than any Nikon or previous Fujifilm. My prime reason to go with the XH-1 was the fabulous EVF, and the new one is even better. I do miss the dedicated shutter speed dial, but I do not dislike PASM. I have had film cameras (Canon F1nAE) that had both, and I wish Fuji had gone that way instead of doing one-or-the-other. I also like putting the Custom settings on a dial where you can get to them rather than hidden away in Fuji's impossible Menu hierarchy or Q display. Of my Nikons I love the ones with the U1-U2 and sometimes U3 dial settings. It seems stupid to making both focus mode and firing mode/speed harder to get to. On the other hand - finally - they put the Q button where it doesn't get pressed by mistake ten times a minute. The Menu is still pathetic, but no more so than previously, except that the C 1-7 settings are even more bafflingly buried than the old Custom settings. Some operator error at work there also, no doubt, but no one could call the Fuji menus user-friendly. Yeah, it is down-right cheesy not to include a charger with a $2500 camera, so I consider it more of $2569.95 camera. I will feel much better, however, if and when I get the free memory card I sent in for.... I haven't had a chance yet to compare the new auto-focus speed and accuracy against the Nikon D-500, the current champion for wildlife and especially BIF. Perhaps Fuji's separating the Bird from other Animal autofocus settings reflects BIF versus sitting ducks. Early days. But I don't regret the purchase. In fact, I am upgrading my Fujifilm prime lenses to the faster and higher resolution lenses. I think my Nikons (D810, D500, D7100, D5300, Z5 and a full-spectrum Z50) are going to migrate down to second shelf for many uses, and the Fuji's (X100F, X-H1 and new X-H2s are going to get more use.
    2 points
  32. Hi. Living in Wales but from the Highlands of Scotland so 2 opportunities there already for good landscapes. Switching system to Fujifilm coming from Pentax full frame as getting tired with the heavy gear on hikes. Don.
    2 points
  33. Canuck57

    SD card formatting

    Before you use a new SD card (or any SD card that may have been used/formatted in another device) you should always format it “in camera” (in the camera you want to use it with). This will help ensure that the card’s format/data structure is compatible with your camera. Cheers!
    2 points
  34. A few thoughts on the differences between LR and C1 as we've experienced it. We moved to C1 5 years ago, though we still have LR expertise and updates as well. Whether C1 gives you an 'adjusted file' to start with or not is a matter of configuration. You can start with the pure RAW file (standard or linear response) or with the jpeg settings (film simulations etc.) applied. By the way, in my field (fashion and beauty) I don't know anyone who uses the film simulations (either Fuji, Nikon or whatever brand) as a starting point for raw editing. Most of us use a predefined Style that is applied at import. What LR calls Presets, C1 refers to as Styles. C1 also provides you with the Fuji film simulations to choose from and these are configured in close cooperation with Fujifilm. They're much more similar to the 'official' in-camera film simulations than the LR 'Fuji film simulations', because they don't rely on the generic sliders only. By the way, the digital Fuji in-camera film simulations don't really resemble the analogue film look they're named after. In fact, there are C1 Styles available that have a closer resemblance to the different Fujifilm analogue film looks. So, when you prefer e.g. the Velvia or Astia film look, you might be better off with these specialized Styles. For tethering C1 is indeed the standard. Together with the Live feature I can tether my shooting sessions and have an art director viewing and rating the images in real time. Even when they're located at the other side of the world. Great feature. In terms of color management C1 is vastly superior to LR. The color editor is by far the best I know of. It is much more geared to professional use. For example, the sliders in C1 in general have less reach (less extremes) than LR, but are way more controllable. As for DAM (Digital Asset Management) LR's Catalogue has more options for tagging and searching. The C1 catalogue is a bit more basic, though for many users that's enough. However, most professional photographers that I know, don't use Catalogues, but the C1 Sessions feature. It fits the workflow way better. Unfortunately LR doesn't have that at all. For the best DAM, many professionals use Photo Mechanic as a specialized tool for keeping track of 100k's or even millions of images. In terms of costs, I think C1 is a bit more expensive if you want to stay up-to-date. Esp. if you also need Photoshop. When we moved to the Apple M1 platforms, we switched to Affinity Photo instead of Photoshop. Our two in-house editors prefer that now, though it is harder to find people with expertise on AP externally (though when you know PS, learning AP is a matter of a few days).
    2 points
  35. Update. I sent the camera to Fuji for repair last Thursday. I've just received it back. They replaced the front assembly under warranty, completely free of charge. Just over a week including two bank holidays. Outstanding!
    2 points
  36. You are shooting compressed raw - Apple doesn't support compressed raw. You will either have to switch to uncompressed or put up with the grey squares. There are, however, plenty of programs (such as Lightroom) that will be able to open those compressed raw files on the Mac its just anything native Apple (such as finder and preview that won't recognize them). FastRawViewer on the Mac is a good choice if you want to quickly view your raw files (and it supports both compressed and uncompressed raw).
    2 points
  37. Yes, My X-H1 is a great camera. No need for me to upgrade, stills only shooter makes it even less likely. There sure are high expectations for the X-H2, however, could be hard to resist. Sure will be interesting, May right around the corner.
    2 points
  38. Percy

    Introduce Yourself

    Hey, I am new to the forum, but not to Fuji. Based in the south east of England I shoot everything from still life to portraits, but not much landscape - I really must try harder on those. Currently have an X-E2 that I bought, new, in 2014 that I normally use with a 35mm f2 and an X-H1 I picked up used with either the 16-55 f2.8 or 50-140 f2.8. I also have a Viltrox 56 f1.4, but it only gets sporadic use. Looking forward to the forum.
    2 points
  39. Sierra de Callosa, Alicante, Spain - XE-3, 18-135, originally shot on Vivia
    2 points
  40. mdm

    image sharpness

    Hi Jerryy! How is it going! The lens in 16-80. I load jpg in Capture One and see that sharpness slider set to zero. It could be due the camera setup. When you switch the sharpness off images might looks realy soft. I adjusted it as it should be and it helps a bit Ruta, if you have RAF file as well post it here. C1 can show where the real focus point in the image is.
    2 points
  41. I think the difference is more a matter of perception, of what looks acceptable. That's why the 100S has two different settings for the depth of field scale. On 6x9 film I rarely made prints larger than 16"x20" and distant backgrounds looked sharp. With the 100S I can see that the background is not sharp when I look at a file 100% on screen, but it looks perfectly fine in a 17"x22" print. My concern is that I want the files to hold up for larger print sizes, which was never a concern with 6x9 film.
    2 points
  42. The XF16/f1.4 is one's of Fuji's best X-mount lenses together with the XF90/f2. I absolutely loved the 16/1.4. I wish you a lot of happy shooting and fun with your new kit.
    2 points
  43. Thank you guys for your advices ! After reading all of that I am now trying to find a good deal on an used X-T3 body to be able to just buy exactly the lens I need with it. Right now I only plan to shoot images so I guess the IBIS from the X-S10 is not a big deal for me, and the WR on the X-T3 is probably gonna be helpfull in Iceland. I still got a few weeks before leaving so I am in no rush, just really excited to get my first "real" camera ! Thanks again for helping me
    2 points
  44. Welcome Matt. WR is often overrated. I've been using a non-WR lens for 6 years (XF23/f1.4) and it was one of my favorites. It was pretty beaten up and had endured some heavy rain showers, but it never gave an issue. At the same time my WR XF90/f2 gave up just after a few months and two drizzles. Now that can be coincidence, but generally with some "tender-love-care" also non-WR lenses can easily withstand some rain, sand and dust. Just don't leave it out unprotected in heavy rain or a desert sandstorm. For a camera it's a bit different, as the top plate with dials and the back with buttons is very vulnerable to water accumulating there. A camera is also more profoundly damaged by water. The XF18-55 might be an older lens with a shorter focal length, but from an image quality perspective I found it to be way better than the rather average 16-80. It's not to say that the 16-80 is bad, but the 18-55 is a step up in IQ. Esp. towards the edges and corners of the frame and with wider apertures. If you're gonna print big, you'll notice. As for the camera, the X-S10 might have the advantage of IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization), but when you pair the 18-55 with and X-T3 you get the Optic Image Stabilization (OIS) of the lens. It's not as good as IBIS but in practice you get 3 stops and with IBIS approx. 4 to 4.5 stops (specs are highly optimistic ;-). The main reason that I would prefer the X-T3 is the viewfinder. It's quite a bit bigger and brighter and with more resolution and less 'smearing' in low light. Esp. when you wear glasses the X-T3 EVF is much better compared to the X-S10 EVF. However, all this is based on the assumption that you shoot images. When you plan to do a lot of video, the X-S10 with the XF16-80 might be the better choice because of the IBIS. But I would certainly check out the EVF of the X-S10 before buying. Lastly, a trick I learned from a workshop student to turn a non-WR lens into a WR lens: buy an innertube for a fatboy bike or a small motorbike. Cut out a piece with approx. the length of your lens and pull it over the lens in case of bad weather. Just make sure that the tube is not too small or you won't be able to rotate the zoom ring. The aperture ring can be controlled from the camera. When you do that your only point of concern is the mount. When all of this sounds too cumbersome, there are very cheap plastic rain covers for incidental use available. These are far better in protection than any WR from any camera manufacturer.
    2 points
  45. I have the nitecore fx1. Really happy with it. Measures the temperature, charge voltage and current. Also gives an estimate of the health of the battery
    2 points
  46. There are a few major differences between the T3 and the T4 and only you can decide how important these are for you. The T4 has in-body image stabilization (IBIS), a bigger battery, a slightly more pronounced grip and an articulating screen over the T3. In terms of image quality, EVF and AF there's no difference between the cameras (after firmware update 4.xx). As you state that you will create video content the IBIS and the battery life can be real benefit. Whether the articulating screen of the T4 is a must-have for you, depends on whether you record yourself or not. For normal photographic use I'd prefer the 2-axis tilting screen of the T3, but this is very personal. The IBIS of the T4 is a significant advantage when you shoot video or low-light photography. Not to be underestimated unless you're a tripod-user. The battery of the T4 lasts about twice as long as the smaller T3 battery. Think about 45-60 min in video record mode in the T3 and 90-110 min for the T4. Additional spare batteries for the T3 are cheaper to buy though and a battery grip with two spare batteries mitigates the difference. Personally, if I were to do significant video work, I'd always opt for the T4 and buy if needed a pre-owned 35/f2. You could even consider the cheaper XC35/f2 rather than the XF35/f2. There's no difference in image quality, just in construction and aperture ring. Note that for video work the 35/f2 has quite heavy focus breathing. When that is a concern, you might want to opt for the 23/f2. For photography only, I'd prefer the T3 for it's 2-axis tilting screen. When the T3 deal includes the 35/f2, I'd consider it a very good deal. This lens is usually $350 new and $250 pre-owned (depending on the market).
    2 points
  47. You probably have the Clarity setting on
    2 points
  48. We call him Blaubart. A guest cat, which visit us from time to time.
    2 points
  49. Standby by sgt.floydpepper.hh, auf Flickr
    2 points
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