George_P

mdm is right. It is written in the release notes, so “we do not give out this kind of information” must be some misunderstanding. You can download and try out for yourself before you jump to a conclusion. C1 is very good with Fuji files.

Welcome, greetings from Slovakia. Beautiful pics on your flickr ! Slovenia is a beautiful country. I climbed Vrsic by bike a few years ago, would love to do Log pod Mandartom sometimes. Bled is beautiful, the valley of Radovna... Post some more !

‘nuff talking. Download C1 and try it ! 🙂

C1 is the best choice, most people would agree I think. This has been discussed a thousand times already. They have good tutorials. Try it, it is worth it. Later on you can switch to C1 Pro and never look back.

mdm +1

https://www.captureone.com/en/products-plans/capture-one-express/fujifilm Cheers.

Godox +1 Godox XProx-F, AD200, V860IIF. The Li-Ion Accus are great, really worth it. Night and day difference to the 1.5V AA batteries (or 1.2V NiMh accus).

Dear Mihai, thanks for the write-up. I have no issues with cards but it can be useful for the ones who do.

Thanks for the kind comment, Herco. You made a very good point re. stopping down the lens.

On Flickr there is a group called “Fuji XF 50mm F2.0”, have a look what the pics look like.

(I prefer primes but...) 10-24 obviously.

Howdy Jerry, we were both writing at the same time.

You are welcome. You say the second picture was taken at 1/20sec. The EXIF data on Flickr confirm that (1/18). The second picture looks so bright (and washed-out, without contrast, overexposed) because 1/20 combined with ISO1250 made it look that way. The floor is OOF but not blurry. The cat is blurry. Naughty cat. It moved ! The first picture is fine and I think there is probably nothing wrong whatsoever with your lens.. Thing is, 1/20 is definitely too slow to freeze even a slow movement of your cat. If you want to freeze movement, you should aim at shutter priority, 1/250 and more. 1/1

Allen, Which car is "better" ? A Porsche, a Land Cruiser or the 5 ? I mean, it is not a question of better or worse, it is a question of better for a certain purpose. The 50 f1.0 is rather extreme, in DOF, price, size, weight, speed (low light capability). For the vast majority of normal photos I would argue the f2 is just as good and also small, light, inobtrusive and great value for the price. It focuses very fast, is sharp and WR. DOF at f2 (e.g. for portraits) is shallow enough for me. Maybe you have more extreme needs than I do so you have to decide based on that. I would refuse to m

Andy, The XT-4 has IBIS and fast focusing (if you are into sports photography). The XT-3 has no IBIS (you probably do not need that for landscapes anyway) and is getting a firmware update soon to improve focusing speed to somewhere near XT-4 (which is irrelevant for landscapes). The X-H1 has IBIS but is slower re. focusing speed and the X-T2 is without IBIS and with focusing speed similar to X-H1. All of them will give you the same (i.e. great) image quality. Also the X-E3, X-T30 etc. The newer ones have a few more Film Simulations but for landscapes you would likely use RAWS anyway. I