George_P

Do you have your camera in Auto mode ? Try to switch that off. On my X-T10 Auto does only jpegs. (I would prefer if the camera would do Raw or Raw+Jpeg in Auto because if you hand it to someone else to take a pic and you put it in Auto for that, you loose the possibility to correct the image in PP from Raw.)

Are you using electronic shutter ? Switch to mechanical.

Well, you gave some resolute advice on SD cards recently so I presume you adhered to it.

I wonder why your opinion is so vastly different from the opinion of thousands of other Fujifilm users, most of whom have used other major brands and are in a good position to compare. Also, many of them are accomplished photographers and they are knowledgable and in a good position to offer relevant statements. Judging from your other posts, your experience and expertise is rather limited, I would say on a novice level, yet you do not hesitate to voice your opinions very loudly, do you.

This has been discussed many times already. You could read up on how to adjust sharpening in LR to get much better results with Fuji files than you get with default settings. But most people, me included, would say it is better to switch to C1. It is easy to learn, they have good tutorials. Have a look. The results with C1 are great. You will never want to use your old Canon camera, the difference in IQ is big. Try the free version of C1 for Fuji, then buy the Pro version with layers and enjoy. You can use it for your Canon files too. Tips: you can move the sliders with the scroll wheel on your mouse, double click a slider to return it to the default value, click on the name of the slider to temporarily see it at default value. Hover the cursor over film simulations in their scroll-down menu to see the effect instantly. Be sure to learn how to make intelligent selections with Luminosity etc. Switch to C1.

Howdy jerryy ?

... At least our current cameras are able to preserve a lot of information for us in the raws so we do have it there to dig it out and to use it if we see fit. And Fujis have probably the best SOOC jpegs from all brands. And you can make different versions of jpegs from the your raw in camera, tweaking different settings, so that might reduce your need for PP on the computer. A beautiful picture btw. Post some more !

I would like to add that there is a technical difference between the way you look at a scene and the way a camera looks at the same scene. When you direct your eyes to the dark parts of the image, the shadows and then on the light parts, like the skies, your eyes adjust accordingly and your brain, while processing all this, plays all kind of tricks on you so you are left with a “memory” of what you saw which is probably quite different for different people and it might include all kinds of “HDR”, “focus stacking” and what not. Whereas the camera has to scan the whole scene at once and with the same settings. You can set shadows and highlights on Fuji cameras to adjust this somewhat to your preference, and maybe to lessen the need for PP, but it is still quite a different process from what you take home from there inside your head. So when the image is PPed and the author recreates what he thinks is a good representation of the scene, he makes conscious decisions about what part of the image will be adjusted in what way. (Or maybe he wants to do deliberate artistic adjustments, not necessarily trying to make a resemblance of how he remembers the scene...). Anyway, the camera does not have this intelligence, or the same artistic opinion as each and every different owner, so you know, how do you make a camera to please everyone and eliminate PP. But of course, I see your point, in more “difficult” scenes, like HDR landscapes the SOOC is rather bland compared to what you get with even the most basic PP. Try to set shadows and highlights in camera, might help somewhat. I always have a huge backlog of images that need PP to be “presentable” and I don’t have the time to sit at the computer so much after sitting there too much anyway for work and other things. Cheers everyone.

+1 🙂

Alex, I use only auto-ISO when I find it useful. I almost never use auto-SS or auto-Aperture. For action shots, I don't know what camera you are using or how you have it set up, but maybe zone focusing could help you if continuous focusing does not cope with your situations.

Hullo big boats. Over to you, jerryy.

Goodbye small boats.

I used to do a fair bit of sailing many years ago, often with sailors from Austria. I had a skipper license, owned a part of a boat etc. The legend had it that two Austrian sailors, "world-famous" as my Austrian friends would describe them, who sailed all over the world and wrote a book about their ventures, after visiting their next port of destination and spending time in the port and in the city, would meticulously record the B/F factor into the nautical charts, with the purpose for the other sailors to know which port is more worth visiting than the other. The way they calculated it was that Baraviczka would count all the pretty girls he saw and Vatermann would count all the girls he saw and then they divided those two numbers and there you have it jerryy, the B/F factor. I hope I will not be scorched to death for this not PC post. No offence meant to anybody, just some old-fashioned fun.