Tethering options are limited for the X-T30.
if you have the latest firmware version installed (v 1.40)
---- https://fujifilm-x.com/global/support/download/firmware/cameras/
you are supposed to be able to use the camera as a web-cam.
It does not look like a standard tripod collar with quick release will fit this lens. You may be able to use something like this:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/554350-REG/Manfrotto_293_293_Telephoto_Lens_Support.html/?cnxclid=16173288597642086376410070301008005
But these are getting tricky to find. Once you know the size, you may be able to adapt what are called guide scope rings:
https://www.highpointscientific.com/telescope-accessories/mounts/telescope-mount-accessories/mounting-plates-tube-rings-accessories/telescope-mounting-rings
Once you get things worked out, show us some photos!
You did not mention which lens you are using. This may help:
http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t30/peripherals_and_options/lenses/index.html
(Some lenses have aperture rings and some do not.)
Received mine a couple of days ago. This is going to be a great lens for macro as well as bird photography (have the 1.4x converter on order). This is a shot I took yesterday with the XF70-300 (0vercast, late afternoon) at 300mm from minimal focus distance (about 2.5 ft). On tripod, ISO 2000, F/10, 1/450s
Photo here
For some Fujifilm cameras, the color space affects the view seen through the evf differently than the lcd back-screen (old problem). Using the wider Adobe color space instead of the sRGB color space gave similar results to both, so the evf was being fed a different data stream; which stream fed the displayed histogram (lcd vs evf) was not clear. Hence use the wider one. Of course Adobe RGB is not good for jpegs except when the monitor correctly shows the colorspace, but Adobe RGB is better for raw. Even better is ProPhoto RGB and ever better is XYZ.
What you are proposing is adding a lot of extra steps and introducing more stressful ways for thing to go wrong even in settings such as landscape photography where usually folks are not in a hurry. For fast moving situations, that could be a disaster.
mrPeter is showing you a good way to achieve what are looking for: natural live view.
https://fujiframe.com/articles/natural-live-view-ettr/
“Turning Natural Live View ON disables the visual effects of in-camera JPG processing. This includes film simulation, white balance, shadow/highlight adjustments. Now the image you see is in the viewfinder and LCD is much closer to the raw output.”.
If you want a different simulation than the default jpeg the camera gives you, quite a few raw developers offer the other Fujifilm choices or allow you to use ones that various people have came up with to get close to the film versions. If you look around the forum you can find the recipes listed.
... but locally it is pretty much finished. Orion, The Seven Sisters(*) and the other winter constellations are packing up and moving out. The snow melted into river floods and birds are headed north again.
(*) The Seven Sisters are also known as the Pleiades and go by many other names. The automaker Subaru uses the Pleiades as their icon on the cars they build.
I must have came in very late to this thread and obviously missed something.
http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-s10/about_this_camera/parts/
This clearly shows where to attach a remote release cable and explains how to adapt the standard Fujifilm remote release cable to work with the X-S10.
A lot of hints concerning the Fuji X Cameras can be found in this and other forums. Some are given as answers to questions others are posted as results of just exploring the cameras. Not everything is printed in the manual or is at least not to be found there easily. On the other side, these hints are not quickly accessible since they are hidden inside (long) threads.
Beginning now, we will pick up hints from different sources and place them in this special thread which will be complemented from time to time.
We are sure this will help everyone using their Fuji X cameras. Please leave us feedback or additional hints to add to our collection. Thanks to everyone who gave these hints in threads of our forum.
As far as possible, these hints are verified using an X-T2 or an X100F.
AFL Button not working
If the AFL (Autofokus Lock) Button does not show any response it is most likely due to active face recognition. Disable face recognition and AF-L will work again.
Shutter not working with adapted lens
Inside the menu there is a setting SHOOT WITHOUT LENS. Turn it on to shoot with an adapted lens.
Flash not working
Most likely the electronic shutter has been activated. Only the mechanical shutter supports flashing. Go to the menu setting SHUTTER TYPE and select MS or MS+ES (on some models it might be necessary to select MS).
Can’t select ISO100
Another issue when using the electronic shutter, ISO setting starts with 200. Use the mechanical shutter for ISO100.
Generally, it is not recommended to use ISO100, since the sensor is designed for ISO200 (I will spare you the technical details). Rather dim the light reaching the sensor by using the ND filter wich is implemented on many models, or use an attachable ND filter.
Bands in the photo or fringed edges on moving targets The electronic shutter is responsible here, too. Using it can result in interferences with some light sources and give you banding in your photos. The banding is not necessarily visible in the viewfinder or on the display. Rather use the mechanical shutter when shooting with artificial light.
Another issue of the electronic shutter is called „rolling shutter effect“. To put it simple, it takes too long to read out the complete sensor while objects are moving fast. Again, use the mechanical shutter with fast moving objects, e.g. when doing sports photography. If you need to dim the light reaching the sensor to go get slower (mechanical) shutter speeds use attachable ND filters and/or the built in ND filter.
Autofocus not working anymore
If the little red box resists to become green even though there is definitely enough light for the autofocus system, there are two possibilities:
The little switch on the front (on the side of the X100) is set to M (manual focus). Switch it to S or C.
The lens stopped working properly (autofocus function crashed somehow). Put the little switch to M and back so S or C and most likely the lens will work properly again. Alternatively, switch the camera off and on, but this will take more time than the first procedure.
Locking D-Pad and Q button Press and hold the MENU/OK button until a lock symbol and ON appear. This locks the D-Pad and the Q button. All other buttons are still operational, even the D-Pad works when you go the the menu.
To reactivate D-Pad and Q button press and hold MENU/OK again until the lock symbol and OFF appear.
If you own an X-H1 you can configure the buttons which will be locked using LOCK SETTING inside the menu.
Deactivating the annoying Q-Button
On some models the Q button is placed quite adversely so you might press it accidentally. Just deactivate it using the procedure described above (lock cursor buttons and Q button).
Until now only with the X-H1, you can disable just the Q button with the LOCK SETTING.
The viewfinder is not working / the display is not working
Most likely you pushed the button VIEW MODE. It’s quite easy doing so accidentally on some models. This results in changing the default behaviour, which is switching between viewfinder and display automatically (using an eye sensor next to the viewfinder).
So, if the viewfinder or the display seems not to be working tip the button VIEW MODE until an eye symbol and SENSOR appear on the display or viewfinder, respectively. And be careful not to trigger the eye sensor with your hand during this procedure (as a left handed person, this happens to me all the time).
The camera appears to be dead
If your camera doesn’t do anything after switching it on and the battery is definitely charged you may have loaded a defective or incompatible SD card. Unload the card(s) and try to switch the camera on. If the camera is working now servicing is most likely not necessary, just use another card.
Another option is to remove the battery and wait for about half a minute before putting it back in. Try without inserted SD-Card first. If it works the camera just needed a kind of reset, like other computers do 😉
Dead or stuck pixels If the viewfinder or the display (or the resulting photos) show some dead (black) or stuck (coloured) pixels, they should be gone after a while since the camera is doing a pixel remapping by itself from time to time. You can also start the remapping process from the menu on recent models. If the stuck or dead pixels resist this process servicing is needed. However, not all models do support pixel remapping.
Indicator lamp blinks green and orange after shot
Probably you have IMAGE DISPLAY set to Continuous. Change the setting in the Menu under SCREEN SETTING.
If you'd like to add or correct something, feel free to comment.
jerryy got a reaction from K PRETHVIRAJ in Fujifilm XT-30 (PC Connections modes)
jerryy got a reaction from CatsAreGods in 70-300 lens arrived a week early!
jerryy got a reaction from Herco in Film Simulations are Worthless
jerryy got a reaction from mrPeter in Film Simulations are Worthless
jerryy got a reaction from LouiseScot in Winter Landscapes