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Love this image in B&W. I've seen similar in color but not so much in B&W. Thanks for sharing.

Incoming storm at Pacific Grove, CA. X-P1, 14mm with Hoya IR72.

Napier, NZ a few years back. I had to quickly get my camera when I saw these kids walking home late at night. It look timeless but it was 2017. Not the best crop or the sharpest but at least I got the moment. @xftales

Still saving for my 80mm macro lens, so I was pottering around in the garden when I came across a bumble bee. Had to shoot it with what I had on me at the time: X-T4, 35mm at F11, ISO 200, 1/250 sec

Crabbing In The Fog Alsea Bay Waldport, OR.

I can understand the frustration and I believe this is how it is. 'Pal2tech' has expressed his frustration in his youtube channel. What surprises me is that the video is made long ago and any company would have tried to fix this. But I see this is not the case for a popular company like Fujifilm. I still see this connecting issue haunting us. It happens to me all the time. When I connect to the remote app, I am able to use the app to execute the shutter like a charm. But you take a while on other chores in your camera or on your phone and return back it will try to connect again. This is terrible in an era dominated by software, is Fujifilm running short of software engineers? Or maybe there is some workaround that has fixed this issue!? (which I never knew). Pal2tech has suggested a faster way to connect to the remote app from the 'preview photo screen'. Try that video, you might learn something new. Anycase the issue and frustration remains.

Here's the final result. It took Focus Stacker an hour and a half.

This entry and the reply may help you: https://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/23205-lens-disables-all-buttons-on-camera/

Post any pictures relating water craft, ships or ocean liner... ▫︎​▫︎​▫︎ Cutter by sgt.floydpepper.hh, auf Flickr

Well - yes - there is a lock function that would do this - but it would have been difficult to do it by mistake: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t4/menu_setup/button-dial_setting/index.html#lock

Agree with BCE except sending it to Fuji. Most likely the sensor is water damaged, and the motherboard is fried. I fried my XT2 in salt water. This happened in 2018 and Fuji wanted like $600US to repair. I wasn't that in love with it and besides there will be corrosion inside the crevasses and buttons etc. Look for another body. and I have to ask what happened to the lens?

Thanks @cpX for these. I will see how they look. @jlmphotos thanks, yea I do like the size - the reason why I asked the question was to see if I could anything in the range of 23mm (so it will be like a 35mm Full frame FOV). I will continue to follow the 27mm until I am convinced :). Is there a separate thread somewhere for sample photos for 27mm F2.8 - I am sure there is. I have seen images based on subjects (forum). If there is not, it will be great to create a thread for each lens. I have seen this in 'Pentaxforums'. This gives an idea of the capability of the lenses as they are handled by amateurs, hobbyists to professionals. I recently created one for 23mm f2.

Of course, this is annoying. On my X-A1, this lens worked perfectly even at F/1.2. In your place, I would first test the lens on another Fujifilm digital camera to rule out that it is due to the X-T3. Does the X-T3 confirm the focus with the green AF field when you take the photo or do you press the shutter button immediately without waiting for the autofocus confirmation? Please take the photo once with a tripod and once without the tripod. It is quite possible that the shutter triggers a vibration that is sufficient and the photo becomes blurred by blurring. Please also check that the lens is in autofocus mode. If all this does not help and the dealer does not want to give you your money back despite the guarantee, then you have to go to the lawyer. Unfortunately, I had to do that before.

I loved my Samyang 12mmf2, sold it and got the XF16mm1.4. But now selling my 16mm to go back to Samyang. It's easy to manual focus and takes great astrophotography shots. Also great for travel and skateboard photography. @xftales

Lens Error: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t10/parts/indicator/index.html

Band: Viagra Boys, Location: Kantine, Cologne/Germany. Camera: Fujifilm XF10 in SR+ mode. (JPEG later processed in Silver Efex) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70swOocN44Q

Hey, great answer! It took a little more force than I expected but seeing your photos and reading your description gave me the confidence to go ahead with it. I really appreciate you taking the trouble jerryy!

Face/Eye detection on

I have been using my iPad Pro instead of my MacBook Air for travel. Even uploading the JPEG's from the 100s and the 50r It's super fast! I LOVE not having to schlep a laptop, and charger. I edited this note to say that I use two SamSung T5 SSD's to store my JPEG's and RAW's. I the upload "most' of the JPEG's to my iPad which has 1TB of internal storage. Once Im done reviewing the images on the iPad, I usually delete many of the JPEG"S and am ready for the next days shooting. I also have synching back to LR turned off as the medium format files quickly clog up the transfer so I don't bother.

No photo to post yet, it's processing! I bought Focus Stacker for my iMac and have only dabbled. This morning is my time for trying new stuff. I'm shooting with the 80 f/2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro on an X-T30 II, shooting at f/4, using focus bracketing in manual mode. Dang -- I normally set shutter speed manually, had the exposure meter centered on its scale, and then discovered the shutter speed knob was accidentally set between the A and the 4000, EXIF reports 1/105 s. My subject is a found coil spring 35 mm in diameter and 50 mm long, which was buried in the yard and is very heavily rusted with rich rusty shades and texture. Its closest point is 60 mm from the front of the lens hood. I find 227 steps at the most coarse step size setting of 10 covers the entire spring. Scrolling through the photos gives this nice effect of the sharp areas traveling through the spring. But that is a lot of photos, 5.3 GB! What does the step size number actually mean? Is it scaled to the lens focal length, aperture, and focus distance? When I look around online I see a lot of focus stacking done with maybe 5 or 10 or 20 images, not hundreds. Do you use focus bracketing and image stacking? How many images do you usually use?

Hello. My name is Carsten and I currently live in Bielefeld, NRW, Germany. For me, photography is a kind of documentation beyond time. It started with a Fujifilm MX2900 Zoom until I got stranded here with the Fujifilm X-A1. 😜

Fujifilm FinePix S2 Pro ● Metz Flash reflected ● TAMRON SP 28-80mm F/3.5-4.2 Model 27A ● (80mm) ● (F/5.6) ● 1/125s ● ISO 100

This is standard behaviour for many zoom lenses: when you zoom in, the minimum possible aperture increases. This is a physical limitation of the lens' construction, that's why it says F2.8-4.0 and not F2.8 in the product name.

I purchased my X-T4 last month and i do alot of timelapse. My camera came with the 1.25 firmware and it froze multiple times during interval shooting. I searched online and some said it was due to bluetooth sync, so i checked my setup and my bluetooth was off, i never sync it with any phone or computer, never connect it online neither. When firmware 1.30 was released i thought it would fix the problem but i didn't. From my experience, the chances of crashing is higher when i set a small time interval (less than 5 seconds), and the problem is especially prominent between 3-4 s interval. I don't think it is due to overheating. I'm using a Kingston Canvas React Plus SD card. I'm a fuji fan but i'm really disappointed with this X-T4 issue.

I purchased my XT4 last month and it came with firmware 1.25, there have been numberous freezes while i did interval shootings, particularly between 3-4 s intervals. Then firmware 1.30 was released and it did not help at all! I've switched off all kind of blue-tooth and wifi sync but the freezing was still not resolved. Truely disappointed now.

I've been using the 30mm lens and it is truly amazing. I don't place a lot of ( never mind: ANY) credence on crap posted online. I do my own testing out in the field. I spent three weeks in Michigan's Upper Peninsula and four weeks in Colorado and my most used lens was the 30mm 3.5, and the 100-200. BOTH of these were amazing. I couldn't be happier.

There's actually a really simple fix for this, and it costs just over $10. I have a video posted on what you need and how to do it. It takes about 5 minutes to mount and you can do it on any camera. Essentially, you mount a cheese plate to the bottom of your camera and it will allow you to mount the quick release plate into a new threaded hole that is away from your battery door, giving you access to the battery without having to un-mount the quick release plate. No cutting, grinding, or modifications required. Hope this helps!

XT-30, XF18-55

Working !!

New Market - Dhaka, Bangladesh Fujifilm X-T3 - Fujinon XF 35mm f/2 WR

Cat Bench by Yoan Mitov, on Flickr

I have the Mamiya 645 80mm f2.8N, 120mm f4N Apo, 150mm f3.5N, 150mm f2.8 Apo, and the older 105-210mm f4.5 UD lenses, and all are remarkably good. Here's a shot from the 80mm f2.8N, wide open, along with a crop from the centre of the first image:

Lack of sharpness is not really the issue for me. I find it plenty sharp. Its the lack of character that leaves the lens on the shelf for me.

I wonder what she did to upset mum?

I gave no brand advise and only shared my experience and my way to reason.

Giant's Causeway, Northern Ireland (2015) Taken with my X100T @f/16, 1/4s

Standby by sgt.floydpepper.hh, auf Flickr