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X-T2, 90mm

Thanks for the replies! yes, i was using the clarity setting (at +1) and setting it to 0 did fix the storing screen. What still bugs me tho, is that when using other shooting modes even with clarity there is no delay. But that means its definetly a Firmware issue that is hopefully resolved soon. im using a 128 GB Lexar 1667x sd card. its plenty fast and i have not encountered storage issues anywhere else so far.

Carmel Market Tel Aviv, Israel 2019 XH1 + 56MM https://www.instagram.com/lifewithlouis/

Jesus God, Looks like some new Covid-19 simptom.

Third party options of adapter ring that screw onto the lens combined with a good UV- or protection filter work just as good. I believe JJC has a good one. Make sure the optional lens hood works with a bayonet. That's easier than a filter thread screw-in one.

Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias)

X-T2 + 80mm macro lens

X-T2 + 80mm macro lens

X-Pro3 & 50mm f2

X-T2 & 80mm macro lens

X-T2 & 80mm macro lens

Thanks Olaf, very useful, it works.... now I can enjoy pinhole " back to mono" photography of the 19th century !

Photos does not yet have X-T4 support. You would need to use a RAW converter with X-T4 support, like Capture One Express for Fuji (which is a free download).

Image Capture transfers image from SD card to your computer. What do you use to view the image (where you see the black bar)?

Did you do a camera reset?

Acquire on the X-T20 is limited to back/restore of camera settings. In settings> Connection settings> PC connection mode > Is either USB Card reader or USB RAW convertor/Backup Restore. If set to USB Card reader it will read your mem card from your PC. (Make sure you are using a full USB cable as some have limit the connectors). If set to USB RAW convertor/Backup Restore you can use the acquire software to backup or restore. Also the RAW convertor software works on this setting. I use Capture One Express. There is no tethering on X-T20 or webcam. (suggest cheap HDMI capture card £6.99 +£1.99 postage. Works brilliantly see Review https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daS5RHVAl2U.)

Ok, so maybe I remember wrong about my previous F... Yes you are right about dedicating one of the 7, good idea! Thank you.

Photo serie "Silent stories" Istanbul, Turkey 2019 Fuji X-T2 + XF23mm f2 R WR Don't forget to visit my site www.josecarpin.com Come check out my instagram jose_carpin_photographer

... continued Black Lives Matter peaceful protest 6.6.2020 XH1 + 16-55mm 2.8 ------- instagram @lifewithlouis lifewithlouis.com

liking the sound of the 10-24, and the 55-200 too, I don't shoot video, not sure if I'd take advantage of the ibis and shoot late in the day, I would like to use a L bracket so a little worried about the x-t4 and the screen, I think I'm better of with the screen on the x-t3 to be fair, I like the idea of that so I can shoot low without having do bend right down to view through the evf. but sorry to answer the question, I would prefer weather sealing yes, especially shooting seascapes.

Generally that is very true. However, with the X100-series it's a bit different. The adapter ring fits onto the lens by removing the front ring of the lens and replacing it with the adapter ring. This is a bayonet lock. The adapter ring then holds the filter and lens hood (through a bayonet). There are also lens hoods that screw-in. These can't be connected to the adapter ring but have to be on top of the filter instead. That's inconvenient because when you loosen them, you often also unscrew the filter.

Hi, I've been practing with my Fujifilm XH1 for a little more than 7 months or so. I really enjoy the manual options that allow us to focus on our subjects without taking our eye off the subject. Below are you can find a few of my pics. You can check out the rest of my photos here https://www.flickr.com/photos/danslevent but not all of them were taken with my Fujifilm XH1. Cheers, Chris

hi, My name is Bartek, I am a full-time photographer from Poland. I currently have x-t2 and x-pro2. It looks like they will stay with me for a long time Like many people, I sold my FF dslr nikon equipment two years ago and I loved these small but powerful X cameras and lenses. lately I deal mainly with portrait photography. After hours I also practice airbrush painting.

I use Lexar since the launch of X-T1 in 2014. I also use other UHS-II cards : Fujifilm, Sandisk, Sony and Toshiba. I never had any issue with all these brands.

@GaryZ welcome to the forum. I'm an x-pro2 user now after using Canon film and Digital. Since you are new to digital and Fuji, the most important advice I can offer is to get the right software for processing your files. After some looking around, I ended up choosing Capture One as it gave the best results for Fuji RAW files. Much better than LR

I do not want the complications of video and flippy screens on a stills camera. They add weight, cost, and points of failure. Why people would buy a brand known for amazeballs in-camera color processing (only to throw all that gorgeous color data away!!?), ease of operation with real metal dials, and a focus on actual photography then demand they add features that are completely opposite to that brand’s vision seems silly. It’s like moving next to an existing airport and complaining it’s noisy. Or buying a sledge hammer to split wood and expecting it to be good for fine finish carpentry. You want video, buy a video camera. I did this upgrade. I have an X-T2 for some adapted lenses (old Canon FD lens) that shoots in B&W and upgraded to the XPro3 for all the amazing simple camera glory and couldn’t be more pleased. I will shoot the XP3 into the ground, buy another and another and do it again. I appreciate Fuji for being old-school Japanese and up until recently resisting the fluffy feature train so I hope they don’t go too far down that path. I would like them to continue to be old-school Japanese.

The X-Trans sensors are amongst the best APS-C sensors on the market. The X-H1 is no exception. Obviously, the IQ is exactly the same as all other models with the 24Mp sensor, but IMO there’s also no visible difference with the newer 26Mp sensor. Perhaps except for marginally less noise at high ISO. Which is something to avoid in landscapes anyway... The IBIS in the X-H1 can be an advantage when not using a tripod but that’s just about the only difference with the 24Mp siblings. Having said that, the most important factor will be the lens. Not all Fujinon’s are equal in this. For landscape I can recommend the 14/2.8, the 16/1.4(esp.), 23/1.4 and the 10-24/4. The 16/2.8, 18/2, 18-135 and the 23/2 are less ideal for landscape and architecture. They all suffer from softness and a lack of contrast in the corners and edges. Worst wide open, but also stopped down never reaching the level of the aforementioned. The Zeiss 12/2.8 is very good too. Both standard zooms (the 18-55 and the 16-55) are equally good for landscape. I have no experience with the 16-80 and the 8-16. Another factor is post processing. I prefer Capture One for this. I think it’s superior over all other full-feature solutions I’ve tried incl. Lightroom. Esp. in landscape, you need good details without artefacts, nice contrast and pleasing greens. When using the in-camera jpeg engine, dial-down the sharpening to at least -2 if not more. Fuji tends to have a very agressive sharpening, that esp. affects landscape with small details. It can become unnatural sharp in standard settings. I’ve tried many camera’s as a semi-pro but IMO the only way for landscape to get a better IQ is to go to medium format sensors (e.g. GFX) or to high-resolution fullframe sensors (e.g. A7RIV, Z7, SL2 or S1R) with the best possible glass for that mount. We’re talking about totally difference price points though. Moving to standard resolution fullframe sensors offers only a small improvement in IQ. In fact, a friend of me owning an EOS RP prefers my X-H1 for (urban) landscape. That’s how good the x-system cameras are.

Hey guys, totally new here and my second post actually, as I have already posted to the general forum. Nice to be here and I hope all are safe in these horrendous times, never more so than forums and interests such as photography should stick together and support one another. ok, I'm from Cornwall in the United Kingdom and lucky to be living in such a beautiful place for Photography. I'm in the market for a new camera after selling all my Nikon gear a while ago for financial reasons, but now would like to pursue Photography all over again, I have no ties to any brand as I have no gear at all, but I have watched a few videos on YouTube about certain Fujifilm cameras and along with the looks and functionality, they have certainly peaked my interest again in photography. of course as I'm sure we're all after the best image quality when we shoot, otherwise what's the point, we all want to come away with an image or 2 if we're lucky. so please check out my original post in the general side, many thanks and I look forward to any input and advice users can offer, much appreciation.

I'm using a name-brand 720nm filter but it would take a few minutes to dig it up and the brand doesn't really matter. I'm limited in the MB I can add directly and Flickr is down right now so I can't use links. Maybe later.

X-Pro3 and Canon 300mm f4 IS using a Fringer EF-XF Pro II adapter

I think this is a much better way to interact with people with a certain topic or subject. So you can answer any questions much more targeted and also show practical solutions. Some things can also be discussed more easily and openly.

X-photographer John Armstrong made comparison between X-T2, X-T3 and X-T4. You may check it here - (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBYCmA0eFhU)

It is clear. I observed the same. This should be informed by Fujifilm. And if it is something solvable through a firmware update, they should solve it quickly, together with the problem of custom setting names not appearing on the Q menu. Why do we want a name for each custom setting if then we cannot read them in the Q menu? This was working fine in the X-T3.

I've owned many cameras and the X-H1 is my favourite. The real drawback as a first camera are the huge number of options you can adjust. The traditional learner's camera was simple, with just the basic adjustments. Even the simplest cameras today seem to offer video recording, a choice of automatic or manual settings for shutter speed, sensitivity, colour balance and many more options, so getting to grips with the camera and quickly moving on to taking pictures means getting guidance that keeps it simple. And that's not simple; most instructors seem to bury you in detail, proving their own mastery but not helping you get up to speed. I love the anti-shake system, but I love taking pictures near sunset when light levels are low. I hope you know someone or can take a simple course that helps you understand the basics of exposure and the basics of getting an interesting picture. I bought mine at the end of production when they were an excellent value. If you're getting a good guarantee then it can be a great buy. With the low cost of a simple 4x6 print it isn't expensive to take a few pictures and then see what they look like on a flat piece of paper. Get some basic instruction, take some pictures and you can be on a fun and interesting path.

Bufflehead Ducks (Bucephala albeola)

Wrong, The flippy screen destroys the ease of use enjoyed with the articulating screen of the XT-3 - just for starts. I'm afraid my next upgrade won't happen until Fuji starts making cameras again instead of camcorders. Just my opinion, but I believe there are plenty others out there that agree with me.

I'm sorry to read these posts. I just purchased my first Fuji camera the X-H1. I read everything I could to decide between the X-T3 and the X-H1 and decided since I was moving from a Canon 5D MkII that the size and weight of the X-H1 would be a good choice for me, adding the IBIS and the deal was sealed. I choose Fugi just because of their history of updating their previous models as much as they could. I hope they won't abandon the X-H1 but will continue to improve the software. If they don't I will be greatly disappointed.

JPEG only Already is dedicated (unless overridden) to the DRIVE button (rear, center, top), and can be added to Q menu. Please in ME DRIVE mode, follow screen prompts (up to 9 total exposures). Menu configuration of stacking exposure method.

Hello and welcome. After having tried several, I ended up using RawTherapee (I'm on Linux).

I love this lens :) Ciel étoilé de la Jacques-Cartier by Sebastien Girard, sur Flickr

Given that Irident is free to try, why don't you see for yourself? The "painterly" effect comes up mostly with foliage and very fine detail. Personally I am reasonably happy with Lightroom most of the time for relatively small prints (at least up to A3+). But for A1 and maybe even A2 Irident (especially disabling noise reduction and distortion correction) and the free/donation-ware RawTherapee* both extract IMHO a huge amount of fine detail more than Lightroom, even using in LR the Bridgwood sharpening method(s): SHARPENING X-TRANS FILES IN ADOBE LIGHTROOM *In RawTherapee for the best results you'll have to use "Deconvolution Sharpening" and "Microcontrast" sharpening at the same time

For fear of stating the obvious, is it *definitely* not turning on? I had a similar situation where I thought it wasn't turning on, but I had just inadvertently pressed the 'view mode' button (to the right of the EVF) with the effect of switching off the LCD; since then I keep it mainly in 'EVF only + eye sensor' mode. Again apologies if this is an exercise in teaching granny how to suck eggs, but sometimes the obvious can be overlooked.

I wonder what she did to upset mum?

[ O N C E . . ] X-M1 + 90mm f/2

xt1- samyang 12mm

Fields of gold