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A couple taken on a family holiday to Cornwall - X-T3 and 10-24 thanks for looking

X-E2 + 27mm

"Uncertain future" Siem Reap, Cambodia 2017 Fuji X-T2 + XF16mm f1.4 R WR Instagram: jose_carpin_photographer Website: www.josecarpin.com

Fujifilm X100F ACROS B&W - In-Camera Film Simulation

"Yangon Circular Railway" Yangon, Myanmar 2017 Fuji X-T2 + XF16mm f1.4 R WR + XF35mm f1.4 Instagram: jose_carpin_photographer Website: www.josecarpin.com 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

The use of DR-Auto, DR200, and DR400 can raise the minimum ISO allowed. The 16-megapixel models can only do ISO 100 in JPEG mode, not in Raw or Raw+JPEG. Lens clutch set to manual-focus mode (for the lens models with a clutch). Manual-focus lens fitted.

Probably this - or maybe touch focus You might try turning off touch focus and face detection - then set focus to single point and touch the joystick once to centre the focus point.

"Woooow!" Sahara desert, Morocco 2016 X-T1 + XF16mm f1.4 R WR website: www.josecarpin.com instagram: jose_carpin_photographer

"There is light at the end" Marrakech, Morocco, January 2016 Fuji X-T1 + XF16mm f1.4 R WR website: www.josecarpin.com instagram: jose_carpin_photographer

"It was unforgettable" Sahara desert, Morocco 2016 X-T1 + XF35mm f1.4 website: www.josecarpin.com instagram: jose_carpin_photographer

Great Blue Heron

... Malachitfalter (Siproeta stelenes) by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr

"Observed" Yangon, Myanmar 2017 X-T2 + XF16mm f1.4 R WR Instagram: jose_carpin_photographer Website: www.josecarpin.com

A lot of hints concerning the Fuji X Cameras can be found in this and other forums. Some are given as answers to questions others are posted as results of just exploring the cameras. Not everything is printed in the manual or is at least not to be found there easily. On the other side, these hints are not quickly accessible since they are hidden inside (long) threads. Beginning now, we will pick up hints from different sources and place them in this special thread which will be complemented from time to time. We are sure this will help everyone using their Fuji X cameras. Please leave us feedback or additional hints to add to our collection. Thanks to everyone who gave these hints in threads of our forum. As far as possible, these hints are verified using an X-T2 or an X100F. AFL Button not working If the AFL (Autofokus Lock) Button does not show any response it is most likely due to active face recognition. Disable face recognition and AF-L will work again. Shutter not working with adapted lens Inside the menu there is a setting SHOOT WITHOUT LENS. Turn it on to shoot with an adapted lens. Flash not working Most likely the electronic shutter has been activated. Only the mechanical shutter supports flashing. Go to the menu setting SHUTTER TYPE and select MS or MS+ES (on some models it might be necessary to select MS). Can’t select ISO100 Another issue when using the electronic shutter, ISO setting starts with 200. Use the mechanical shutter for ISO100. Generally, it is not recommended to use ISO100, since the sensor is designed for ISO200 (I will spare you the technical details). Rather dim the light reaching the sensor by using the ND filter wich is implemented on many models, or use an attachable ND filter. Bands in the photo or fringed edges on moving targets The electronic shutter is responsible here, too. Using it can result in interferences with some light sources and give you banding in your photos. The banding is not necessarily visible in the viewfinder or on the display. Rather use the mechanical shutter when shooting with artificial light. Another issue of the electronic shutter is called „rolling shutter effect“. To put it simple, it takes too long to read out the complete sensor while objects are moving fast. Again, use the mechanical shutter with fast moving objects, e.g. when doing sports photography. If you need to dim the light reaching the sensor to go get slower (mechanical) shutter speeds use attachable ND filters and/or the built in ND filter. Autofocus not working anymore If the little red box resists to become green even though there is definitely enough light for the autofocus system, there are two possibilities: The little switch on the front (on the side of the X100) is set to M (manual focus). Switch it to S or C. The lens stopped working properly (autofocus function crashed somehow). Put the little switch to M and back so S or C and most likely the lens will work properly again. Alternatively, switch the camera off and on, but this will take more time than the first procedure. Locking D-Pad and Q button Press and hold the MENU/OK button until a lock symbol and ON appear. This locks the D-Pad and the Q button. All other buttons are still operational, even the D-Pad works when you go the the menu. To reactivate D-Pad and Q button press and hold MENU/OK again until the lock symbol and OFF appear. If you own an X-H1 you can configure the buttons which will be locked using LOCK SETTING inside the menu. Deactivating the annoying Q-Button On some models the Q button is placed quite adversely so you might press it accidentally. Just deactivate it using the procedure described above (lock cursor buttons and Q button). Until now only with the X-H1, you can disable just the Q button with the LOCK SETTING. The viewfinder is not working / the display is not working Most likely you pushed the button VIEW MODE. It’s quite easy doing so accidentally on some models. This results in changing the default behaviour, which is switching between viewfinder and display automatically (using an eye sensor next to the viewfinder). So, if the viewfinder or the display seems not to be working tip the button VIEW MODE until an eye symbol and SENSOR appear on the display or viewfinder, respectively. And be careful not to trigger the eye sensor with your hand during this procedure (as a left handed person, this happens to me all the time). The camera appears to be dead If your camera doesn’t do anything after switching it on and the battery is definitely charged you may have loaded a defective or incompatible SD card. Unload the card(s) and try to switch the camera on. If the camera is working now servicing is most likely not necessary, just use another card. Another option is to remove the battery and wait for about half a minute before putting it back in. Try without inserted SD-Card first. If it works the camera just needed a kind of reset, like other computers do 😉 Dead or stuck pixels If the viewfinder or the display (or the resulting photos) show some dead (black) or stuck (coloured) pixels, they should be gone after a while since the camera is doing a pixel remapping by itself from time to time. You can also start the remapping process from the menu on recent models. If the stuck or dead pixels resist this process servicing is needed. However, not all models do support pixel remapping. Indicator lamp blinks green and orange after shot Probably you have IMAGE DISPLAY set to Continuous. Change the setting in the Menu under SCREEN SETTING. If you'd like to add or correct something, feel free to comment.

Good initiative from Olaf. Highly qualified technical insight, as usual, from Doug. Cheers.

"Raw Market" Yangon, Myanmar 2017 Fuji X-T2 + XF16mm f1.4 R WR Instagram: jose_carpin_photographer Website: www.josecarpin.com

"August 2016: My first postcards from India" All pictures taken with a Fuji X-T1 and the best two lenses I've ever tried from Fujifilm so far: XF16mm f1.4 and XF35mm f1.4 If you like my work, I will happily want to add you on my instagram: jose_carpin_photographer Come check out my site here: www.josecarpin.com 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Try to press the (rear) dial, you should be able to change the exposure time then.

T3 + 56 1.2 Coral Cove 1 Final (1 of 1) by Christopher Rankin, on Flickr Wooden Stairs Pretty Smile by Christopher Rankin, on Flickr Sandy Caress by Christopher Rankin, on Flickr Sandy Curves & Luscious Looks by Christopher Rankin, on Flickr Prism Glow by Christopher Rankin, on Flickr Blue Fence Happy Mood by Christopher Rankin, on Flickr

Don't confuse the two things. Custom Settings C1-C7 allow you to set up virtual film types for JPEG shooting. The Q Menu is a control panel that allow you to see and to change 16 different camera settings of your choice. Unlike function buttons, the Q Menu shows the current setting as well as allowing you to change the setting. There is only one Q Menu. It is the Q Menu. As shipped by the factory, one of the settings in the Q Menu is the Custom Setting. That's the only connection between the two, but somehow people manage to get them confused all the time.

With 18-55 lens, Ive had trouble focussing in low light to the point where the camera gives up. I can focus manually then switch back to autofocus change subject and then it wont focus again. I had to go back to Fuji to have the shutter button looked at (its sticky/unresponsive at times) and I tried a video in the Fuji office park and to my unsuprise the camera was doing a similar hunting thing. There does seem to be an improvement over FW3.0 as I didnt see hunting when zoomed out but when zooming in to 55mm the problem is still very much there. Settings were all much the same as before, all auto except aperture. See attached video. Yes, I was shooting through a car window which is not ideal but the camera clearly tries to over focus beyond the cars in the distance and when adjusting the aperture to around f14 the focus hunting dies out. Was on FW2.1 recently for a vacation and not a single bit of focus hunting. The 'improvements' in the FW3 versions I dont think is worth the upgrade from FW2. Camera is back again with Fuji so lets see what they say next!

... Bienchen und Blümchen by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr

Sure sign of autumn in the high country!

https://www.fujirumors.com/fujifilm-releases-firmware-update-fujifilm-x-e3-auto-geotagging-fujifilm-x-pro2-bug-fix/

I probably would have never have guessed this one. Greybeard proves the value of community learning and support.

Always good to have spare SD cards

If you set the camera to RAW plus JPG (use „fine“ setting for JPG) and a monochrome mode, you‘ll get a black and white JPG and a coloured RAW. You can use the RAW file for different kinds of development inside the camera or with external software.

You'd have to go into the camera shooting menu's Film Simulation options. From there, you'll have the option to default to the Monochrome options. Keep in mind that once you shoot in monochrome, the pictures can't be reverted to color later. Here's a link to your camera's online manual. You'll also have the ability to download a PDF copy of the manual for yourself. http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t100/index.html

Caught this guy out in my back yard on my sawhorse. Fuji X-T20 with 80mm Macro and the 1.4x teleconverter.

I love the X-E series. I just upgraded to the X-E3 because I found the 80mm macro a tad slow with it. If it weren't for the fact that I was buying the XF80 I probably wouldn't have upgraded. It was fast enough for everyday activities... family, vacation, day outings etc. Image quality is excellent up to ISO 3200 and quite usable to ISO 6400. I definitely recommend it on a limited budget, prices are quite low right now (used). I wish the X-E3 had maintained the same size of camera and viewfinder... sometimes it's just a little small. It works well with the kit lens (XF18-55) and the XF55-200. Makes for an amazing starter set.

Thanks David ... nothin' better than a newbie welcome 😁. Cheers!

Hey everyone! Just want to drop a note and say hello ... my name is Brian and I've been photographing things as a professional and hobbyist for more than 30 years. I'm a pretty new to Fujix system so have a lot to learn...this seems to be a perfect place to seek advice and help with everything related to Fujifilm camera and lenses. Cheers,

Fujifilm X100F ISO 12,800 (Yes. That's correct!), 1/50 sec, f/4.0, Handheld, Available Light from LHS Window

I bought X-E2 four years ago (4 fx zooms and 5 primes since then). It is still the only Fuji camera I own and it suits me fully. 27mm f/2.8 is my favorite lens to couple with this camera.

After moving to Fuji X system I extensively used large number of Trans-X bodies and XF lens. Most of them perform excellent optically and very good mechanically. I think Fuji is doing great job designing and supporting gear. The only thing is bothering me all the time - if the electronics is dead lens typically becomes fully unusable. There are numerous third party or adapted fully manual lens that solve that concern. But what if I want to keep using my favorite Fuji optics mechanically? I've performed numerous attempts and discovered potential of converting XF 35mm F1.4 and XF 27mm F2.8, and recently found highly satisfying result of adapting Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 that requires relatively low effort. Here's resulting article explaining what can you do with electronically dead Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens to bring it back to life in much more compact frame of Industar 50-2. Alternatively you can also use adapted Fuji XF 27mm F2.8 lens on other APS-C cameras like Sony or Canon.

... Schreihals ... by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr

No built-in flash, no d-pad, much shorter eye-point. The last one is what killed the X-E3 for me because it's such a pain in the rear to use with my glasses. I had one for a short time, sold it again and went back to X-E2. Other differences are the joystick, faster processor, and a lot of other smaller differences.

#1 Multi aspect-ration sensor is my #1 Imagine a square 24MP for shooting portraits in Across (or whatever you like) and a wider aspect for landscape. An oversized sensor could do this with essentially the same pixel size and effective higher resolution output since you wouldn't need to crop. #2 A menu system with context sensitive menu's that show you what is available and unavailable for all settings and leaves everything in the same place so you can see the changes when you for example chose manual vs auto focus. #3 Downsize but add a decent grip for single handed shooting.

I’ve had my X-H1 for a day or so now. All configured they way I like it. I’m very much enjoying this camera. Much better high ISO than my X-T2 (figure a firmware update will make them even again at some point). Grip is MUCH better than X-T2 - that was the only “take down” for me from going from dSLR to Fuji when I bought my X-T1 (large hands). EVF is very detailed and bright. With grip and boost mode there is zero lag/drag in the EVF. And the IBIS is nothing short of excellent. Hand-holding the 16-55 @ 55mm down to 1/8th second is easily doable/repeatable with good camera holding technique. The body feels more rigid/rugged. The grip fitment is more organic, following the lines of the camera much better than the “attached square brick” with the funny vertical “add on” of the X-T2 grip. Shutter button improvement is very nice, indeed. Some complain that it is too soft... but I find it just about perfect. After about one minute using it, finding the half-press, vs the “shoot” press is quite easily dialed in, and makes for very accurate shutter trip w/o inducing camera movement. Shutter is very quiet. I love the e-ink top sub lcd that retains frames remaining, EC settings (or not), and battery status even with the camera off. VERY nice. Some have lamented the loss of the dedicated EC dial. I sure don’t. Setting the EC button to “toggle on and off” (which is remembered even with camera off) makes for very easy EC adjustment with rear command wheel. Since EC setting is visible in EVF, LCD and on sub lcd panel, there’s still obvious indication of EC settings. I like it better and am much less apt to accidentally adjust EC with this set up. The Eterna Film Simulation is really nice, even for stills photos. I’ve not yet ventured into video. I’m very pleased with this machine, it is a worthwhile upgrade to X-T2 based on my own preferences in ergos, the IBIS, the EC implementation, robustness of the body construction, and a lot of other small refinements like the push button (rather than fiddle slide button) for releasing the LCD for vertical tip-out, etc. Rand

I love the 23mm focal length, but I'd say it's a toss up depending on what your personal preferences are. 35mm could be an excellent option as well. Either of those two will probably be an ideal prime to complement the zoom. I probably do 90% of my photography with either the 23 or 35 and the remainder is a mix of the 16mm and 55-200mm. The 23mm and 35mm may seem fairly close in focal length, but there is a huge difference between them when you're actually out shooting. I'd get as close to each of those as possible on your zoom and try shooting at only one focal length for a bit. Try at 23 first, then 35. You very well may end up owning both of those primes eventually, but that will help you decide which to buy first. The other question is how comfortable are you getting close to people in your street photography? If you're very comfortable with that, then the 23 makes a lot of sense. If you're not that comfortable with getting close to people, the 35 might help then you can get the 23 as you get more comfortable.

I'm going to be the contrarian here I suppose. The 18-55 is my "don't leave home without it lens" period. I also own a bunch of primes (as you may note in my signature) including the 23 1.4 which is amazing! As a matter of fact I'm headed out for a four day long, out of state job this weekend and I'm packing the 16 1.4, the 35 1.4, and the 60mm 2.4. And, just in case, the 18-55 will be in my bag. I truly will try not to pull the 18-55 out of the bag as I'm trying to use my primes more. We shall see.

Carl Zeiss Sonnar 135/2.8 Fuji X-E1 OOC Jpeg

I agree about the Jupiter-11, 135mm f4. Very compact and sharp lens with a creamy defocus. Fuji X-a1 with Contax mount Jupiter-11

Here's one shot with Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm f/2.8 on X-T1 and a generic adapter...

i hope you like it ... IR-Linde by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr