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I agree, and I think it's due to too many people who buy stuff they see on YouTube videos (or wherever) without doing enough -- or any -- research on what they're buying. It seems to be a great camera; just make sure a street retro camera is what you want. Or think of it as an inexpensive Leica, but you can't afford any other lenses for it anyway 😺

It's raining in the meadow... But, on the hillside, the sun shines bright...

There are a few major differences between the T3 and the T4 and only you can decide how important these are for you. The T4 has in-body image stabilization (IBIS), a bigger battery, a slightly more pronounced grip and an articulating screen over the T3. In terms of image quality, EVF and AF there's no difference between the cameras (after firmware update 4.xx). As you state that you will create video content the IBIS and the battery life can be real benefit. Whether the articulating screen of the T4 is a must-have for you, depends on whether you record yourself or not. For normal photographic use I'd prefer the 2-axis tilting screen of the T3, but this is very personal. The IBIS of the T4 is a significant advantage when you shoot video or low-light photography. Not to be underestimated unless you're a tripod-user. The battery of the T4 lasts about twice as long as the smaller T3 battery. Think about 45-60 min in video record mode in the T3 and 90-110 min for the T4. Additional spare batteries for the T3 are cheaper to buy though and a battery grip with two spare batteries mitigates the difference. Personally, if I were to do significant video work, I'd always opt for the T4 and buy if needed a pre-owned 35/f2. You could even consider the cheaper XC35/f2 rather than the XF35/f2. There's no difference in image quality, just in construction and aperture ring. Note that for video work the 35/f2 has quite heavy focus breathing. When that is a concern, you might want to opt for the 23/f2. For photography only, I'd prefer the T3 for it's 2-axis tilting screen. When the T3 deal includes the 35/f2, I'd consider it a very good deal. This lens is usually $350 new and $250 pre-owned (depending on the market).

XT-30, XF18-55

You probably have the Clarity setting on

Update - the vendor contacted Fujifilm and organised to swap the lens over within a couple days, so I'm very happy with it. I should point out, there's still some "marks" on the finish of the inner metal rings. They're like swirls in un-mixed paint. That's the best way I can describe it. There's nothing wrong with the lens, but it's a little surprising. Anyway, I'm quite happy! Back to exploring this camera system

I've not yet had the chance to build a linux(ish) box to try this (I doubt a modest RPi has the necessary horsepower) but I take your point completely concerning port clogging on shared usb devices at high bandwidth. I will persevere, because it is an interesting project. I suppose HDMI out to a decent quality converter is probably a much simpler, off-the-shelf solution, subject to the same usb caveats. At the risk of sounding like a broken record though (for those of us who remember them) all of this could probably be resolved with a small firmware tweak by Fuji. I live in hope.

I do think that this approach (webcam over usb) should be taken with a view of what the physical limits impose. The X-T30 uses the usb 3 standard which has a theoretical 5.0gb limit — if you plug it into a similar type port on your computer, etc. You can easily run into problems if your computer is sharing that port with other usb devices while trying to push full screen, deep bit-depth, high frame rate video while trying to use those other devices, — your computer may bog down or at least have problems including dropping frames or stuttering. Setting smaller sizes, slower rates, lower bit depth, etc. may be a better choice. Even better, use the HDMI connector. You start off with over 10gb data transfer, (this is the starting point, notice the usb connector speed is “up to” which means you normally get that only under ideal circumstances). This may be troublesome if the webcam software expects the camera on the usb port, a lot of those usb webcams are not high quality video capture devices.

Buy a secondhand 55-200. It5 an amazingly good lens.

This is one of the reasons I subscribed to this forum . i reads tons of review but I have still some doubts. I will use the camera mainly for travelling reportage . 65% video 35 Photo. As today I am leaning to the X-s10 with a 16- 80 costs 1400 euros. My doubt regards the x-t4 that costs 430 euros more , not too much The only reason because I like more t4 is the "water resistant" certification ( even if I don't know how much to trust this kind of treatment) and the more classical interface, I don't know If I could regret the more minimal interface of the s10.

Hi Jerryy Interesting, and I’m glad that you found a method to support X-T30 video capture. My experience has been far less positive and I would appreciate any thoughts you may have. Firstly, I found that the introduction of webcam support in firmware 1.40 did allow me to use the X-T30, but only in limited applications. For example, when connected and configured as per Fuji instructions, the camera would be recognised and usable with Zoom video conferencing. But, it was not available as a generic webcam to any other apps. For example, VLC could not pick it up as a functioning source. Also, websites where I granted camera access could not obtain any image from the camera. I have not applied the 1.41 firmware update as the release notes didn’t seem to indicate any further webcam functionality. I am not sure that the lack of webcam support on this camera is a ‘windows’ problem as you suggest, but I suspect it is a crippling of functionality within the X-T30 firmware to maintain differentiation of features between this camera and other Fuji models. However, I would be happy to be proved wrong! You mentioned your experience of additional webcam support in firmware 1.41 and successful image captures with gphoto2, I would be very interested in this – can you let me know what functionality you get with gphoto2 and X-T30 because I see on the gphoto.org website that it doesn’t seem to have any support for this model? Thanks in advance

I know that CPL filters are crucial for DSLR, because linear polarizers may have negative affect on AF precision and performance. Not sure about Fujifilm X-E3 or other mirrorless camera. What polarizers do you use with Fuji X system cameras?

You should indeed use circular polarizing filters (and not linear). Also on a mirrorless digital camera. The quality of a CPL is crucial. 'Cheap' CPLs can ruin your lens performance. Pick one from a reputable brand. It might cost a bit more, but it's visibly worth it in terms of less color shifts, better sharpness and contrast.

Look up!

Hello Andrew. To set video options as you like, you have to turn the main button(Auto, M, S, A, P etc) to VIDEO. Then you set the options you like from menu (Manual focus) and for starting capturing video as the settings you have done, you push the Shutter release button, not the red one. I think that will solve your problem.

Looks familiar, taken in the Smoky Mountains? Nice series of shots.

Perhaps the codec for Fujifilm .RAF (X-S10) was not updated. Try this: https://fujifilm-x.com/global/support/download/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/ Install this one from Fujifilm, it should have all of the up to date codecs.It is free, plus, you get a decent raw converter program.

Hello!! My first picture in the forum, a close up of a Cratena Peregrina in Javea, Spain. I hope you like it! Fujifilm XT-3 + Fujinon 80mm macro + Nauticam housing + 2×Backscatter Mini flash.

I have had an early X100V too, but to my knowledge there is no recall action for the overheating issue. At least not in Europe. There's 'just' the firmware update that shifts the temperature point before switching-off occurs. I wouldn't know whether there is actually a repair possible without structural alterations to the camera. The hardware is hard to change I would assume.

Unfortunately there is not. On the X-T4 there are two options re. the focus ring. One is about the direction of rotation (CW versus CCW). The other is about the behavior of the ring (non-linear which is standard versus linear). In non-linear mode the focus point shifts faster the faster you move the ring. However it is very uncontrolled in terms where it exactly stops, so it's useless for focus pulls. In linear mode the ring behaves regardless of how fast you turn it, but it is different per lens how much turn (in degrees) it requires to move from one point to another. On top of that it is very imprecise. So, also pretty useless. Exception are the lenses with a clutch mechanism and a focus ring with hard stops (the 14mm, the 16/f1.4 and the old 23/f1.4). They allow for better MF control. Settings such as Sony, Nikon, Leica and Panasonic have where you can fine-tune the behavior of the focus ring are unfortunately not available in Fujifilm cameras.

Beautiful sunset in the evening. Marvelous picture.

Andromeda: M31 The small blob on the right hand side is Le Gentil M32 https://www.messier-objects.com/messier-31-andromeda-galaxy/ https://www.messier-objects.com/messier-32-le-gentil/ 3 of 3

Thank you Olaf

Hi everyone Excited to join the Fuji X Forum. My name is Daniel, and I'm really looking forward to exploring and connecting with artists here who have a passion for the X system like I do. I've been photographing since 2011, I started with skateboarding, then landscapes from 2013-2018, and then portraits. After 2020, portraits were difficult to schedule and shoot because of the pandemic and to be honest, it wasn't really my calling. Fast forward to beginning of this year and I began fully back on Landscapes with some wildlife. I feel that this really has made me happy. I've picked up my first Fuji camera back in 2013 with an Xpro 1. I loved the camera but eventually got a XT10 in 2015. After that its all been a joy to play with many other cameras (xe2, xt3, and now using xt4) I wanted to upload some of my work but it seems that the files are a little too big. See my work below; You can also see my work on Instagram @dcfotographs Img1 Img2 Img3 Img4 Thank you all, looking forward to interacting with the group.

i use magewell videograbbers which do the heavy lifting. do zoom-calls for hours with both xt3 and xt30, never had a shutdown.

I wholeheartedly agree, I definitely need tethered shooting. I invested in this camera and would like to have the ability to automate astrophotography shots.

I see two separate discussions here: (1) whether full-frame (FF) is actually 'better' than cropped sensors (APS-C) and (2) whether Fujifilm should enter the FF market. (1) in terms of image quality, bigger sensors have an advantage over smaller sensors. It's basic physics (and electronics). It depends however on comparing sensors of similar generations. A 10y old design is most likely less in terms of IQ than a recent design. You need to compare apples with apples... Whether or not the difference in IQ is visible, is a totally different matter. That depends on quality of the rest of the camera, quality of lenses, quality and size of the viewing screen or prints, ability of the photographer... et cetera. Whether the difference in IQ matters is an even more personal question. That is a matter of budget, weight and size you're willing to carry, personal preference for a camera brand or the purpose of use... A landscape stills camera has different requirements than a fast action sports hybrid camera... So, technically a bigger sensor generally has better IQ than a smaller sensor, but there are many more factors that determine the 'best camera for you'. (2) Fujifilm is a fairly large corporate, but the camera division in itself isn't particularly large. It's smaller than e.g. Nikon's and Panasonic's imaging divisions and more than 5x smaller than Sony's imaging division. Moreover, back in the late 2000's, the camera division of Fujifilm was on the brink of being closed. The X-system was the 'last attempt' to address the photographers market and they succeeded. In itself that was a great success, because the market for digital cameras (compact + interchangeable lens cameras) shrunk with more than 90% between 2010 and 2020. Their bet to stay close to affordable, but good quality ILCs paid off. They found a niche market and by focusing on that market (compact APS-C cameras, a decent lens line, retro styling and film simulations) they became the dominant player next to Sony. By 2015 Fujifilm made the decision to launch a digital cropped medium format. That wasn't strange, since in the days of film Fujifilm medium format cameras had a good reputation for being rugged and affordable whereas in the 35mm camera market Fujica was a 'B-brand' at best. Again, MF is a niche market in which they could become a dominant player. Also note that Fujifilm doesn't manufacture it's own sensors. They buy from Sony. That means that they will always be a little behind in terms of the latest generation of sensors. Usually 6-9 months. Now, when entering the FF market it's like you enter the shark pool. It takes a lot of money and other resources to succeed and even then be only #3 or #4 in the market. Imagine: you not only have to design and produce a range of cameras, but also the accompanying lenses. None of the X-mount lenses will cover a FF-sensor. All of the GF-mount lenses are too big and slow for FF (but great for MF). Next to that, when you want a professional FF-system, you have to set-up a world-wide Professional Support Service that operates 24/7 and is present at all large events (Olympics, World Cups, UN, EU, WEF, G7 and G20 events... you name it). That is very different from their current basic FPS for a handful of MF fashion photographers... ;-). So, I guess that Fujifilm gladly forfeits the FF-market and focuses on markets where they can be a dominant player. Given their size and the shrinking of the market, I think that is a smart strategy.

August's full moon goes by a lot of names, including the Sturgeon Moon, the Green Corn Moon, the Raksha Bandhan Moon, Nikini Soya, and the end of the Esala Perahera festival. It is called the Sturgeon moon because during this time of the year, there is supposed to be lots of sturgeons out swimming around. Here is a link to some more information: https://solarsystem.nasa.gov/news/1390/august-2020-the-next-full-moon-is-the-sturgeon-moon/

Don't shoot raw, fuji jpegs are so good, more time behind the camera and less time looking at a PC monitor?

It really depends on how loud it is. If it's quiet, I'm pretty sure this is normal. I can hear mine making a faint whirring sound (kind of like a fan) when I am right up against the camera, but not when further back. I've seen this mentioned about the x-t4 as well when I was initially doing research deciding on a camera. The best explanation I saw was you cannot truly turn ibis off, when disabled the magnets have to hold the ibis in place to prevent it from moving, as a result the ibis system is still energized to some degree.

Menu Button->Set Up (the wrench icon)->Button/Dial Settings->Function (Fn) Setting From here, scroll to page 2 and change Fn-D to the second default which changes the left dial to exposure compensation only when in manual mode.

Kids should be able to work with it in point and shoot mode, but the pets might have a few problems, most dog paws are too big to move the controls. Cat paws and bird claws might be capable, you will just have to try it with which ever pet you are wanting to hand the camera off to and have them grab a few frames. Most of the knocks on theX-T4’s autofocus come from trying to use lenses that are designed for stills to get videos, they just were not designed to react that way. These complaints vanished when the reviewer attached “video” lenses and tried again. If you are mainly wanting still photos, you should have no problems.

For portraits: the 110mm is gorgeous at F2.0 and 2.8, best portrait lens I've ever had and I rate it 10/10. Everyone expects a lot from the new 80mm too. The 250mm is also really nice for portraits, 8,5/10. The 50mm is said to be slightly better than the 45mm which I have and rate 7,5/10. The 30mm I haven't used very much yet, 7-8/10 for the moment. The 63mm is OK but nothing really special, a 7/10. The 120mm is really sharp, could be good for landscape but a no-go for portraits. I had the 32-64mm, it's really sharp but has -imho- no character, 5/10. I really dislike zooms so I'm totally biased .

XF lenses do not work on GFX cameras. Their image circle isn't large enough to cover the sensor. An APS-C lens covers about 25% of a GFX sensor. Some full frame lenses work with a GFX but only restricted to a smaller part of the image (about 70% of the GFX sensor). I've worked with the GFX50S and shortly with the GFX100 for fashion and portraits. The combination of the 32-64 and the 110 works very well. Alternative is the 45-100. For landscape I can recommend the 23. Combine that with the 45-100 and you have a nice kit covering most. You also mention longer glass (XF50-140). Note that for GFX there's essentially one longer prime lens: the GF250, which is a bit shorter than 140mm in APS-C equiv.) and one zoom: the 100-200 (a bit over 100mm in APS-C). Both are massive and quite a burden to carry around. Fuji claims that the GFX100S is only slightly larger than a full frame mirrorless, but that's only half the story. When you take the lenses into account it is considerably larger and heavier to carry around compared to full frame. Although the GFX platform by design is well-suited for landscape, there's only one native real landscape lens (23). I guess there's room for a wider lens there. There are some third party options but at a lower quality standard (and price level).

Hello, Godox TT685F 2.4G TTL Flash Speedlite is one of the best speedlight flash for the X-T4.

90mm

0XE10044-35 by felnus2, on Flickr