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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    M Wales

    landscapes with fuji x

    X-Pro3 & 16 2.8
  2. 3 points

    black and white (open thread)

    First post, lets see if I can do this...
  3. 3 points
    x-t30 + 35 f2
  4. 3 points

    landscapes with fuji x

    Puerto Vallarta Sunset X100F
  5. 3 points

    Artemus in his Winter Coat

    Artemus in his winter coat X-T2, 16-80mm
  6. 2 points
    I'll tell you what. I DO NOT LIKE THE DIRECTION OF FUJI AT THE MOMENT. If you want video, buy a camcorder, period!!
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points

    a day at the museum

    van abbe museum for contemporary art eindhoven, netherlands fuji x100t, 1/100 sec, f/2, iso 1250
  10. 2 points

    Winter Landscapes

  11. 2 points

    Fuji Flowers

    20191002-Südafrika_XT2-1398 by Martin, auf Flickr
  12. 2 points

    Milky Way in Southafrica

    20190926-Südafrika_XT2-652 by Martin, auf Flickr
  13. 2 points

    Bought an x-pro3, want an x100v

    I have a X-PRO3 and would not part with it and the advantage of being able to use other lenses than the 23mm which is my most used field of view as it was on my Leica M9. I would most certainly never replace it with with the X100V for the only advantage of thr smaller size (the X- PRO3 osn't all that big) I just might submit to the temptation of getting a X100V nest to the X-PRO3, but fear it will all too often be left behind and taking 2 bodies on a trip is for me a no go
  14. 2 points

    Winter Landscapes

    Winter's moon and constellation
  15. 2 points

    Winter Landscapes

  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points

    Back to Fuji camp

    Hello everyone, New to the forum and new (again) to the Fuji system. My first one was the original X100 limited edition, beautiful camera that I regret selling it. You know, victim of G.A.S. Many systems later and after reviewing those beautiful files I found from my old camera, I decided to get back in track and bought myself a silver XT3, with the 18-55mm, 23mm f2, 35mm f1.4 and 60mm 2.4. I took it for a spin last November in China and I enjoy it very, very much. I am ready to learn and share our passion, glad to be here! I am leaving one of my favorite pics (panorama made with 3 RAW files) taken with the XT3 and the 18-55mm. Ricardo
  18. 2 points

    Winter Landscapes

    Yeah George, I remember when snow used to stick around.
  19. 2 points


    From the album: Flores

  20. 2 points


    From the album: Flores

  21. 2 points


    Hello All made this photo in Antwerp after a rain shower greetings jan
  22. 2 points

    black and white (open thread)

    Lost shoe XS-1
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point

    Boats, ships & Ocean liner (OPEN TOPIC)

    While the others are eagerly waiting for the water to rise, this old chap can't be bothered.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point

    Boats, ships & Ocean liner (OPEN TOPIC)

    That depends, what does the plaque say? 😃 otherwise, good catch! It is good to see your photos again, I hope things are going well for you.
  28. 1 point

    Winter Landscapes

    A closer view of winter's constellation (Orion):
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Hello cup4sharks I think your problem with IBIS will be mainly that it is quite expensive and I'm not sure you can compensate that with cheaper lenses (more on that below). If the X-T4 will include IBIS, it will be a more expensive camera than the XT-3 is. And of course a much more expensive camera than the X-T30 you look at. So if you "wait" for the X-T4, it's possible you'll wait for the "wrong" price range. I'm also pretty sure the X-T40, X-T50... won't have "physical" IBIS because of that for a long time. But first you have to understand that camera IBIS is not the same like in-lens IS. IBIS does minimize the "flat" shaking on x, y axis and rolling. In-lens IS does minimize pitch and yaw. That's the reason why a XH-1 can combine both systems together. However, In-lens IS helps more for photos with long range lenses, while IBIS is generally helpful in movie situations. Facing that, I can imagine that in-lens image stabilization will help you more than IBIS. But I can't presume to be the judge of that, as I don't have that sort of problem. So the first advice I give you is: try to find out if you really need IBIS or if you have to buy IS lenses anyway. I can imagine you don't need both systems together, but as I said: how can I know that?! Beside of that I'm pretty sure you need a more hefty camera. A X-T3 is a bigger camera which is less difficult to hold in the hands. If you buy a cheaper X-T30, I would recommend you to include a nice hand grip in your calculation. If you have the time to wait, I would also set a watcher to the price of the X-H1. Rumors say it's not that of a success for Fuji and it is possible that they'll drop the price in a very foreseen future (it already dropped remarkable). If there really will be a X-T4 with IBIS released, I'm pretty sure X-H1 gets a rather hefty price drop if not even a sell-out. Saying that, the X-H1 wold get a true bargain in that situation. Cheers
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point

    XF 18-135mm. Pictures not crisp?

    Hi, I'm new to the Fuji system and this forum. I posted this on the X-T2 one but I am now figuring out it is more suited to the Lens forum. So I'm sorry about the double post and if there's a rule against this let me know so I can delete the previous post. Having said that... I bought a used XT-2 and a brand new XF 18-135mm lens. Just went on my first trip with it and I'm not happy with how a lot of the pictures turned out. I can't understand why some of them look blurred (as in by movement). Some others just don't look crisp enough. I'm attaching cropped versions at 100% zoom of the pictures to highlight some problem areas (they are not near the edges). Perhaps I'm missing something, but I want to rule out my equipment being defective. Is this normal? Picture1: ISO-200 f/5.3 1/1100sec 74mm OIS on Picture2: ISO-200 f/5.6 1/640sec 135mm OIS on Picture3: ISO-200 f/5.6 1/1000sec 88mm OIS on
  34. 1 point
    Just took my new XH-1 on a trip to Spain/France. Loving the camera and having fun learning the Fuji system.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point

    Fuji Birds

    Great Blue Heron
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point

    X-E3 focusing and 27mm lens

    This is might be your case.
  40. 1 point

    black and white (open thread)

    Snow Birds over Toronto XT-1 55-200mm @ 140mm 1/1000th sec f8
  41. 1 point

    black and white (open thread)

    Natura nuda X100
  42. 1 point

    black and white (open thread)

    X-E2 + Minolta 58mm
  43. 1 point

    Portraiture work, running topic

    Fujifilm X-T2 + Fujinon 56/1.2 DSCF5895 by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr DSCF9192 by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr DSCF9371 by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr DSCF6018 by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr
  44. 1 point

    Portraiture work, running topic

    T2 + 23 DSCF9432 by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr
  45. 1 point

    black and white (open thread)

    Empire State Building by JS-photographie, auf Flickr
  46. 1 point

    black and white (open thread)

    XT1 & XF23/2
  47. 1 point
    OK Guys...the results are absolutely amazing! After trying few macro lens options, I set my preference for a Micro-Nikkor 55mm 2,8 + tube. @Milandro, the curvature of the negative wasn't in the equation as my negative is maintained in place by an enlarger negative carrier. I can now confirm that my negatives reproduction are absolutely perfect. I compared them with some scans I get from a professional lab using a Nikon 5000ED scanner and mines are, way out, better with more tonalities and approximately the same pixel count when using the XPro2. Here are the useful information if someone goes the same way: Only real macro lenses give good to outstanding results Micro-Nikkor 55/2,8 is an extraordinary lens I didn't test Fuji Macro because of high price and no need of autofocus but I believe it must be excellent The negative must be flat so the use of an enlarger negative carrier is mandatory (or similar negative holder) The use of a remote trigger is mandatory (I use a cheap remote with cable from Amazon) My light source is an old X-Ray light (white balance isn't a problem with B&W negatives) The «scan» time is calculated in seconds, not in minutes. Only depend of the time it takes me to change negative in the carrier! WooHoo! Cost = zero/scan if I consider that I already have the XPro2 and a friend borrowed me his old 55mm with have a stiff focus ring so was never used. I made myself the reproduction rig with stuff I already had. Seriously I was hoping the results will be good but they are stunning. When taking time to test and refine all the variables, it works great. Now the only things I still must do is «scanning» 20 years of B&W photography...
  48. 1 point

    black and white (open thread)

    Underground Fight in Seoul
  49. 1 point

    black and white (open thread)

    took this down the road from my house, using a hoya r72 infrared filter. I stitched a few shots together to get this since i had on the 56mm at the time. the 56mm is not great with infrared and makes bright spots in the middle of the frame.. since it is a panoramic shot there are several light spots across the middle, which actually ended up helping the lighting of the shot as if i burned them in on purpose. I did some editing but looking at it cant remember what i did and what was a mistake.
  50. 1 point

    Citral's random walkabouts.

    More OOC Jpegs. Busy week-end, not interrested in post-processing. Everything on 35mm f/1.4. DSCF6071 by Christophe Branchereau, on Flickr DSCF6084 by Christophe Branchereau, on Flickr DSCF6109 by Christophe Branchereau, on Flickr DSCF6129 by Christophe Branchereau, on Flickr DSCF6132 by Christophe Branchereau, on Flickr DSCF6175 by Christophe Branchereau, on Flickr DSCF6195 by Christophe Branchereau, on Flickr DSCF6003 by Christophe Branchereau, on Flickr DSCF6023 by Christophe Branchereau, on Flickr DSCF6199 by Christophe Branchereau, on Flickr
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