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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/30/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    DuncanLPP

    Fall pictures

    Hello to all, My small contribution... Fujifilm X-Pro3 & XF 80mm
  2. 3 points
    DuncanLPP

    Fall pictures

    Fujifilm X-Pro3 + XF 80mm
  3. 3 points
    merlin

    Here Kitty Kitty

  4. 2 points
    Jakani

    _My World !

    From the album: Fuji ex 2

  5. 2 points
    jw432

    FallMorning.jpg

    From the album: Random/Anything

  6. 2 points
    Herco

    RAF underexposed in Affinty Photo

    Rico Pfirstinger wrote some books on Fuji X-cameras incl. a few pages on DR. It's in all of his X-pert Tips books. Furthermore, cambridgeincolour.com has extensive explanation pages on all sorts of photographic topics. Just search on their site for dynamic range. The key is that you cannot correct blown-out highlights but it is easy to correct deep shadows in post processing. Cameras have two ways of addressing this: either an HDR-feature or an extended DR feature. The extended DR-setting on the camera works for jpegs. It typically underexposes your raw file by 1 or 2 stops and than with the in-camera raw conversion to jpeg it leaves the highlights as is and amplifies only the midtones and shadows to produce a jpeg with detailed highlights (because under exposed) and nice blacks and greys (corrected in camera). Effectively its 1 extra stop of DR in practice. The HDR feature actually creates multiple images with an exposure bracket and combines these images into one, using the highlights of the underexposed image and the shadows and midtones of the other images. HDR can also be used for raw images in post. As for your typical situation, you only use raw-files and no jpeg I believe. Best approach IMO is to leave the DR setting to 100% and do the exposure correction in Affinity Photo. In order to do that you should set the live view function on to see the effect of the exposure on screen and switch on the histogram. Than set the exposure in such a way that the highlights (right part of the histogram) do not blow out. So stay within the border of the histogram at the right. The shadows might get blocked and the midtones way darker than you want, but that is easily corrected in post with the Shadow and Midtone sliders. By using this method you can use the base ISO of the camera (ISO100 in case of the GFX50R) which is always preferable in landscape photography. The fact that below ISO320 the camera limits you to DR 200% is because it needs 'room' to do the corrections. From 320 to 2 stops down is ISO80 which the camera cannot handle (ISO100 is the lowest) without trics like extended low ISO which you should only use as a last resort.
  7. 2 points
    quincy

    Lens for indoor bird photography

    According to Fujifilm, the XF 18-55 at 55 mm has a maximum magnification of 1:6.67, while the XF 90 has a maximum magnification of 1:5. This means, when both lenses are at their close focus distance, the XF 90 should see a slightly tighter crop. The image area in the plane of focus of the XF 18-55 at 55 mm should be around 16.7 cm x 11.1 cm, while the image area of the XF 90 should be ~ 12.5 cm x 8.4 cm. I've added those frame lines to your image: But please also consider that your depth of field gets smaller as your magnification increases. So even if you buy a lens with better magnification and brighter aperture, you might still end up closing the aperture down to get the whole head in focus. I've added some pictures I took with the XF 80 f/2.8 wide open at f/2.8: (the last bird might even be a pigeon, but you'll know better than me) You can see that at f/2.8, the feathers at the back of the heads as well as the beaks are already very unsharp and out of focus in the portrait images while the eye is sharp. Even with less magnification as seen in the last picture, you can run into those problems.
  8. 2 points
    DuncanLPP

    Fall pictures

    Fujifilm X-Pro3 + XF 50-140mm
  9. 2 points
    jerryy

    Fall pictures

  10. 2 points
    claude

    Evening light

    XE2 Vivitar 19-35 Evening light by Claude, on Flickr
  11. 2 points
    unfortunately not exactly. I was looking for a similar feature, but where it would save focus preferences, eye detect being on / off. Metering mode, WB settings etc etc. I don't think it is something which can be done on the X-T or X-H series but looks possible on the new S10 Thanks
  12. 2 points
    jerryy

    Mount Adaptor Setting

    This stores the value you entered into the EXIF data. That can be useful if at some point in the future you want to remind yourself which focal length (lens) you used to get that image. Additionally, if your raw converter allows you to use custom lens profiles during the conversion process, this information already being in the data can save you some time by selecting the appropriate one for you. The lens profile can contain information regarding how much vignetting the lens has for a given f-stop, how flat or fish-eyed a lens is, etc. Many raw converters have some generic profiles they use for lens that cover a wide variety of settings. It does no harm to leave it empty, filling it in and remembering to use may give you some extra options.
  13. 2 points
    jerryy

    Reptiles

    I came across this critter sunning itself on a bike path / walkway: Autumn is a rough time for reptiles. It is not cold enough for them to find a place to nap over the winter, but the cold mornings make them sluggish. So they crawl out the the hot spots trying to warm up.
  14. 1 point
    jw432

    Sailing1a_07_18_2020.jpg

    From the album: Random/Anything

  15. 1 point
    jw432

    Freya10.jpg

    From the album: Random/Anything

  16. 1 point
    jerryy

    Fall pictures

  17. 1 point
    exkeks

    23mm f2 and 27mm f2.8

    I had both, but kept the 27mm only as my compact setup lens. On the other hand, 23mm is my preferred focal length, so I got the 23mm/1.4 for all the occasions when size is not crucial.
  18. 1 point
    jerryy

    Lens for indoor bird photography

    quincy is showing you why the studio folks earlier were suggesting to improve the lighting so that you can use more dof (higher f stop) to get more of the bird in focus without the image turning dark or needing to push the ISO. If you do go the lighting route, you have more options in lens choices -- though that 90mm is pretty good, a lot of portrait photographers like it. But one thought about that, try to get constantly on lighting instead of flashes. If you start strobing the units to get several good shots, the birds may panic, that sudden burst of intense light is startling.
  19. 1 point
    lifewithlouis

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    The Line Movement/Queens Park & Bloor/10.17.2020 Fujifilm X-H1 XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR more life... instagram @lifewithlouis https://www.instagram.com/lifewithlouis
  20. 1 point
    jerryy

    Save a photo from video

    You mention VLC, it has the ability to export frames built in to it, just search for VLC export frame and you can find plenty of tutorials for doing that. From the way you have written, it sounds like you are trying to view a 4k video on a 1080p monitor, which is why your screen grab may be coming out as 1080 x 1920. This thread may help! it lists some other options: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4054568
  21. 1 point
    Dear Mihai, thanks for the write-up. I have no issues with cards but it can be useful for the ones who do.
  22. 1 point
    George_P

    Looking for a XF series prime lens

    Allen, Which car is "better" ? A Porsche, a Land Cruiser or the 5 ? I mean, it is not a question of better or worse, it is a question of better for a certain purpose. The 50 f1.0 is rather extreme, in DOF, price, size, weight, speed (low light capability). For the vast majority of normal photos I would argue the f2 is just as good and also small, light, inobtrusive and great value for the price. It focuses very fast, is sharp and WR. DOF at f2 (e.g. for portraits) is shallow enough for me. Maybe you have more extreme needs than I do so you have to decide based on that. I would refuse to make a general statement as to which of the 50 f1.0 / f1.2 / f2 is "better". For me the f2 is better. Go to a shop and try them out if you can. Good luck ! Let us know how you fared. Cheers
  23. 1 point
    Greybeard

    File numbers

    Its doubtful that the camera is doing this. More likely the software you are using to move or process the files.
  24. 1 point
    carlo macchiavello

    Presentation

    Happy to be here, i hope to be of help and be helped
  25. 1 point
    Correct. It seems the process of checking the firmware allowed communication between the camera and lens. You should probably then update the firmware if needed. In my case the lens firmware was the latest but the camera was one minor update behind. Again as I mentioned there may be other reasons for the error message, but it's worth a try.
  26. 1 point
    rokphish

    At a cafe...

    From the album: Rokphish Gallery

    Taken with X30

    © Rokphish

  27. 1 point
    I had trouble at first but was able to get this (kind of) working with my X-T4. My environment: MacBook Pro 2017 (USB-C ports) Mac OSX Catalina 10.15.7 Zoom v. 5.2.0 USB-C to USB-C cable (worked with the cable that comes in the X-T4 box and also a generic cable) X-T4 firmware 1.10 Mac app: FUJIFILM X Webcam 2 My mistake was that I was waiting to see the camera recognized by the Webcam app before connecting to Zoom. Turns out you have to launch Zoom first, select "FUJIFILM X Webcam 2" as the camera (from Preferences > Video) and THEN (and only then!) the webcam app will recognize the camera. NOTE: It's also necessary to have the latest version of Zoom. Earlier versions did not allow for virtual camera input, which this relies on. I say "kind of" working because the video is unusably jerky and delayed. Any advice on that?
  28. 1 point
    Sandro_gsp

    Extended ISO H and L settings

    Extended ISO only works with "mechanical shutter"
  29. 1 point
    (I copied this from the other thread) Plug in your camera to your Mac, turn it on, open your Applications folder and start the program called Image Capture. Its main window has a left hand menu called DEVICES and another one called SHARED. The Devices menu will have your camera listed and you can bring in images to your drive. https://support.apple.com/guide/image-capture/welcome/mac Note: to be complete, you can set default folders and have scripts that do if-then tasks, etc. etc. but that is way beyond getting you up and running quickly
  30. 1 point
    thegerman

    X110V FIRMWARE UPDATE TO VERSION 1.1

    If I am understanding right, you are trying to open the file to move it? All you have to do is copy it by dragging it to your sd card, no need to open it, the camera will do that.
  31. 1 point
    jw432

    Sunset_09_03_2020_2.jpg

    From the album: Random/Anything

  32. 1 point
    Olaf W.

    X-PRO3 framing guideline in OVF

    Switch between the display modes while looking through the viewfinder, your setting should appear.
  33. 1 point
    bbestone

    Fuji Flowers

    Fuji xt2 and XF 18-55
  34. 1 point
    bem

    Survey: Most Used Fuji Lenses

    Fujinon XF 16-80 mm F4 R OIS WR is in use here. /Bo
  35. 1 point
    I mainly use Lexar and have no problem at all ! Stop promotting only Sandisk in many threads which is not more reliable than Lexar, Proglide, Sony, etc ! Ken Wheeler is not a guru !
  36. 1 point
    Gwyn

    No post processing landscapes

    Still finding my way round on here so forgive me as I put this on winter landscapes. Reason for posting this is that I have always tried to take the best photo I can without post processing . Many years ago I saw a photo and thought I would like to take that same image. As the scene was not to far I travelled, camera in hand but couldn't recognize the area. Yes there was the odd tree and rock I remembered but nothing else. Reason was although the photo was stunning it was heavily processed and had no relation to the "real" scene. Camera manufacturers spend millions on camera design so why do we not use their knowledge and experience and take the photos the best we can and learn by our mistakes. Don't get me wrong there is a place for processing but I think it can give people especially newcomers a goal that cannot be reached by just pointing the camera. To me a good photo is one that replicates the actual scene without working on a computer. The photo I have uploaded was just that. I was lucky because it does not happen every time but I keep trying.
  37. 1 point
    muhsintpd

    Macro

  38. 1 point
    mdm

    Cityscapes with Fujifilm X

    X-E2 + 27f2.8
  39. 1 point
    M Wales

    landscapes with fuji x

    X-Pro3 & 16 2.8
  40. 1 point
    m_schlonz

    Cityscapes with Fujifilm X

    20140831-Singapur_RAF_ - 560 by Martin, auf Flickr
  41. 1 point
    plaidshirts

    landscapes with fuji x

    Puerto Vallarta Sunset X100F
  42. 1 point
    jerryy

    Fall pictures

  43. 1 point
    jerryy

    Cityscapes with Fujifilm X

    watercolors ...
  44. 1 point
    jerryy

    Fall pictures

    Hey George, ... until next season
  45. 1 point
    Enzio

    landscapes with fuji x

    ... DSCF5606 by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr X-H1 + Minolta 35-70/3.5 MD
  46. 1 point
    fireman1961

    Fall pictures

    X-E1, Samyang 12mm/2.0, jpg sooc, "velvia"
  47. 1 point
    jw432

    Lamp in the Woods

    From the album: Random/Anything

    © Jon Willard

  48. 1 point
    TClair

    Still Life

    X-Pro1 w/Zeiss 32mm f1.8 shot with a polarizing filter on a light table and one one the lens.
  49. 1 point
    MatusKicka

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    Barcelona morning break,Spain 2014 #X100s #matuskicka
  50. 1 point
    Russ

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    Fuji X-E2 - 14mm f/11
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