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Greybeard last won the day on January 19

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About Greybeard

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  1. Its a bit difficult to tell - the focus metadata has been removed from the images when they were resized for posting. It does say that metering mode was set to average as opposed to the more intelligent multi-segment method so the sky in the second image would have skewed the exposure.
  2. Yes - provided you are using a version of the Adobe software which supports your camera. If you are using a subscription version of the Adobe software and keeping it updated then your camera should be supported.
  3. It would appear the answer is yes in both cases - as you are transferring jpgs the conversion to the film simulation and jpg settings have already taken place in the camera. If you shoot raw and transfer the files directly (either by card reader or wifi) then you have the flexibility to change film simulation and other jpg settings on the phone.
  4. Yes very easy - open up the Adobe Raw Converter - just select the location of your raw files at the top of the screen and leave everything else as default. Once you click on the Convert button dng files will be created in the same location as your raw files. Import the dngs into Lightroom.
  5. yes you can load the output from the Adobe DNG Converter into Lightroom
  6. Its tough to tell much from these - perhaps you could post a full size example straight out of the camera (with metadata intact)
  7. Here is a link to the Fuji raw converter https://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/myfinepix_studio/rfc/index.html here is a link to the Adobe DNG converter https://helpx.adobe.com/uk/photoshop/using/adobe-dng-converter.html
  8. I notice this has been reported a few times and the answer seems to be that the raw files are corrupted. Have you tried running them through another raw converter? Perhaps the software that comes free from Fuji or maybe the Adobe DNG Converter? That way you will know if its the file or some issue specific to Lightroom.
  9. Which version of Lightroom? Have you made sure you are on the latest?
  10. Yes - exposure and focus are separate. You can have auto exposure with manual focus and also manual exposure with auto focus.
  11. Wex may be able to answer this - they have probably come across it before - the promotion terms don't make it clear. Fuji are quite responsive by email but you obviously won't get a reply before the 5th.
  12. If this is on Windows look at your task bar (probably at the bottom of the screen) and look for the X AcQuire symbol (X on a partial circle). If not there then check the hidden icons (also on the task bar).
  13. This is rather an old post - but have you verified you are on the latest X100F firmware?
  14. Your choice is really between a fast UHS-I card (such as the SanDisk Extreme Pro card recommended by DTA116) or an even faster UHS-II card (again the SanDisk Extreme Pro cards are well regarded - but also Sony, Lexar (but make sure its the 2000x cards), or ProGrade (the V90 cards). Given the current card price its not worth getting anything slower. The UHS-II cards are much more expensive but are better if you shoot long or frequent fast continuous bursts (and faster to copy images from card to computer). The X-Pro3 doesn't support the 400Mbps video frame rate of the X-T3 so doesn't need the UHS-II card if you change your mind and shoot video If you want to save money maybe start with a fast UHS-I card and only upgrade to UHS-II if you find yourself waiting for the buffer to empty.
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