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Greybeard

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Greybeard last won the day on July 17

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  1. Like Jerryy says you can scale you image down so that it can be uploaded - that way we aren't guessing. The only symbol that looks like a camera is the Continuous Mode symbol - but it normally has "L" or "H" next to it rather than a "1"
  2. Is this an interesting project or are you looking for a cheap camera? Sounds risky to me but if the condition is otherwise perfect you might be able to sell it on for spares.
  3. Is this on the X-T30 II? Sounds like you have HDR selected in the shooting menu. The other alternative when you see the "storing" message is that the Clarity setting is non-zero but that doesn't cause multiple clicks.
  4. According to the Viltrox web site it appears to be Micro USB Viltrox 56/1.4
  5. How about using a phone or a tablet? This is probably the fastest and easiest way to do it.
  6. In the menu Setup => Screen Setting menu under Disp. Custom Setting you can control what appears in the LCD screen. And yes the 1142 is an estimate of images remaining (you can get rid of that as well if you don't want it)
  7. No but its easy enough to ignore them Thats for the touch screen - if you don't want to use it go into the Setup => Button/Dial Setting menu and turn it off IBIS for stills is controlled in the Shooting menu under IS Mode - you can choose Continuous or Shooting Only
  8. Its a bit difficult to answer without seeing the original image file. Where did you focus? Is that point sharp? Or is the entire image (including the point of focus) soft?
  9. Interesting - sounds like you've found the reason for the discrepancy - I guess the SSD drive option is new to FujiFilm and they don't have it quite right yet
  10. Did you change the cards between days? did you take out the cards between days? did you use the same cards for the entire trip (and both cards in the same slot i.e. not switch cards between slots)? Are both raw and jpeg images on both cards for all images? (Not that I have an answer but looking for something that changed between days)
  11. The usual recommendation is to completely initialize all the settings and see if that fixes it.
  12. M mode on the back of the camera controls focus - aperture priority is for exposure. Maybe I'm missing something - the distance scale isn't going to be affected by your exposure setting (aperture priority). If you change from manual to auto focus and you still want the distance to show you will need to go into the custom display settings in the screen setup menu and check the appropriate setting. As you have the camera why not try it?
  13. Either way should work - both methods allow you to set aperture. (I'm assuming when you say M mode you mean the exposure mode M and not the focus mode M). (I'm also assuming when you say zone focus you mean the technique of setting focus at a specific distance rather then using the AF Mode of Zone).
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