Jump to content

X-s10 with Fujinon 16mm 1.4 autofocus issue


Recommended Posts

Hello. I have a x-s10 that I use multiple lenses with. Yesterday I noticed that with the Fujinon 16mm lens I'm having issues auto-focusing. It works on video but not for still images. When I half press the button it focuses a bit then when I release the button it snaps back to the previous focus point. Even though it manages to focus the image is still blurry. Any ideas please. I already did a a major google search and nobody has mentioned this issue.

Thanks,

Etienne 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Part two of two.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

      This is the equivalent of 75 minutes of exposure. Antares, the big bright yellow star in Scorpius is surrounded by the Antares Nebula. Antares is actually a Red Giant star. Over to the right of Antares is the star cluster Messier Object M4. Above these is the Rho Ophiuchi Nebula. At the top, to the right, is the Blue Horsehead Nebula (normally it is shown flipped, both vertically and horizontally.) M4 and More! Lots of color! https://www.star-facts.com/antares/ https://starwalk.space/en/news/antares-star https://science.nasa.gov/mission/hubble/science/explore-the-night-sky/hubble-messier-catalog/messier-4 https://webbtelescope.org/contents/media/images/2023/128/01H449193V5Q4Q6GFBKXAZ3S03?news=true https://www.galactic-hunter.com/post/ic4592 https://www.constellation-guide.com/constellation-list/scorpius-constellation/
    • Summer Color... In winter, Orion puts on wonderful color displays. Its nebulae make it well worth freezing your batteries off to get the beautiful images. But, …, it is not the only show in town and other winter season nebulae demand their share of your viewing time. What about summer? Not to worry, there is plenty of sky color as well. Scorpius leads the way starting in late Spring:

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

      Part one of two.
    • Hi there,   I am currently in the process of upgrading all my camera gear since my current gear is very outdated. For the body I've already settled on the X-T5, but I can't figure out the lenses yet so I was hoping to find some advice here. I will mostly take the camera with me on hikes (this is also where the WR of the X-T5 comes in handy) so about 70/80% will be on my travels which will include landscape & street photography, the rest will be wildlife or zoo animals, some astro photography and maybe a tiny bit of portrait.   Starting of I was leaning towards the XF18-135mm, very versatile and also has that WR so one less thing to worry about. But since the main goal is landscape & street photography, a prime lens plus a zoom (in my mind) makes a lot more sense. So right now I'm thinking of getting the XF23mmF2, tho I'd love some advice on this as well. My reasoning behind the XF23mmF2 was: wide aperture, sharper than a zoom and 35mm in 35mm format equivalent (that's why I think I should pick it over the XF35mmF2).      Now for the big part the zoom lens, this is where I need the most advice. The way I see it I can either go for the XF55-200mm or the XF70-300mm both of which have pros and cons for me.   Starting with the XF55-200mm,   Pro: its focal length is closer to the prime lens I want so I don't have such a large gap.   Con: It's not WR, maybe I'm putting to much value on this but is does seem very nice to have.   Then with the XF70-300mm,   Pros: obviously it has more range for those long distance shots, its compatible with the teleconverters, the reviews point out it's a lot sharper in the 200mm range and it has WR.   Cons: this leaves a big gap in my focal length and has a smaller aperture.   If I missed anything please let me know and if you need more information to give me better advice please ask.   Thank you all in advance! 
    • Hi  @GreybeardWhen I look through the screen or viewfinder, the focus area appears clear and sharp. I took ~20 photos on vacation and when I finally looked back at them later I realized they were all blurry. Such a bummer. Sometimes, I notice that when I hit the shutter I can see the focus area blur and the screen goes black before going back to live view. I will see if I can get that on recording.  @jerryyI followed the tutorial and the live view appears to be doing exactly what back focusing is intended for. Half pressing the shutter doesn't do anything. When I push the AF-ON button, the area in the green box becomes clear. I snap the photo -- it's blurry! AHHH! @George_P I will turn it off in some test shots tonight. Hope this gives us some more clarity. I bought my camera last April -- so we are just past the warranty. Does anyone have recommendations on what to do next? I've been emailing with Fuji but get a response every ~3-5 days. I'm so bummed because I have another trip in July and I feel like this issue might not be resolved by then.  
    • Option b. but the shutter speeds will start at 1/125. What you are describing is a setup for using mostly automatic rendering by the camera, just one step away from being in “P” mode. For any given scene, the camera will try to expose the image as best it can within the min and max allowed auto parameters you put in. Depending on how bright things are at the time you try to get the image, the other settings may not change at all, or if you go from a bright to a dark setting, the ss and iso may change wildly, all trying to get the best exposure for that given aperture f-stop. If you wish to ‘force’ the ss and iso to change you need to manually set them as well.
×
×
  • Create New...