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Some macro high speed water drop photos. Setup Trigger System, Fuji XT1 MCEX-11 2xNissini40 Lens 55-200. Photos reworked in LR. Drop by turgeon76, auf Flickr Greensplashby turgeon76, auf Flickr

I'm kind of getting tired of this...so please, any help would be highly appreciated! ​I bought lots of Minolta MD lenses, including the quite expensive 50mm f1.2, but I want to use them on my X-Pro1 with at least some ''medium-to high'' quality focal reducer. As I live in Slovenia, the choices are pretty poor (read: none) and I really have no desire in buying the (imo) overpriced Metabones speedbooster, or the ultra version, so I was stuck with trying the cheap generic f.r. which showed lots of corner softness, regardless the aperture on every single lens, and I know how they should perform since I used them before on the A7II and also tried them on my buddy's XE-1, and they performed very differently (a whole lot better). The other problem was the blue spot, then I just sold it on e-bay to get at least some amount of money back. So in general the adapter was a bad performer, even for the price. As I know there are NO options available for Minolta MD mount besides used Zhongyi Lens Turbo I, which are so rare, I did not spot one in a month or so. Other two options being Metabones or Generic which I'm not interested in. Then I came into a conclusion that I can use a focal reducer of a mount with a shorter flange distance than the MD and just buy a thin adapter, and also benefit with having the option to adapt almost all other mounts. But here's the thing… I would LOVE to buy the Lens Turbo II in MD mount as it corrects most quirks of the first model, but guess what? No love for Minolta anymore! It does not exist. And all models have a bigger flange. Then I spotted a series of Kipon Baveyes 0.7x focal reducer for Fuji X (which is of very good quality optics, and not that expensive! A little over 200€ which I have no problem paying for.) with a whole range of mounts to choose from: ALPA, EOS, NIK, M42, L/R, C/Y, NG, OM… but no MD mount of course!!! Then I checked each of their flange distances online and found out only the ALPA mount, which I did not even hear of before, being pretty rare, has a lot shorter flange than MD. But of course there are no adapters/rings available for MD - ALPA. I'm looking for a quality focal reducer but I'm starting to give up…and thinking of buying the Metabones, and spend a whole lot of money on that, just to get my work flow going again, since I made a switch from Sony A7II to Fuji X-Pro1 I did not regret a single thing except for my huge collection of fullframe MD lenses not being that much useful for art work, because of the crop factor. Please guys, any ideas?

I am reposting this from another x forum as I am hoping Fuji will see this if no one has already requested: I love the auto focus - it's terrific- but, I feel TOO fast for cinematic-like focus pulls when one operator / cinephotographer is shooting moving picture work. It's a dead giveaway it's on auto, with one operator. I would like to make a feature request in a firmware update for two additional slower modes for continuous auto focusing: Just "slower" and "slowest" or maybe "cine", and thin slowest called something like "slow". The current snappy pull simply does not look like a typical focus pull for a filmmaker. It is set up for snap pulls- which can work for action - but optimized for stills work, less so for motion. Adding these options would be a huge benefit to single-person run and gun operators , eg those who shoot short film, documentary etc, and automagically also enable the operator to better adjust framing on the fly to help ensure the focus pull locks onto the intended target . . . . Adding this feature, plus FLOG to the SD card (PLEASE try to keep it 4:2:2!) would make the X-T2 KILLER. LOVING the XT2 so far. Richard

Heyho everybody, Since lately I'm a quite impressed and happy owner of the Fujifilm X-T4. Especially the option to power the camera via USB-C and powerbank is awesome for long timelapse shoots. But the playback speed when reviewing the timelapse is annoyingly slow. When I use the front dial I'm able to scroll way faster then by pressing and holding the joystick but, as my finger is limited in size, I have to reposition it and the playback interrupts, ergo no smooth playback. So is there any way to scroll faster through a lot of images? Any menu listing or workaround? For a camera capable of shooting 15fps continuous, it seems like a basic feature to have or am I missing something? Thanks in advance & sorry for my bad English

Hi All, I spent the last couple weeks throwing tough files (Fuji X-Trans 24MP, Sony 42MP) at the Luminar Jupiter update that was officially released yesterday (12 April) Skylum gave me an advance copy to do the testing so I wrote a review of this new release of Luminar, which I just posted on my blog and was also picked up by PetaPixel. I did my testing on an averagely equipped laptop and a fast desktop, both Macs. I have been hearing that Windows users aren't seeing speed increases as dramatic as on Mac platform. In case you saw Skylum's charts in their marketing, they make it look faster than my real world tests. But in all fairness, I don't know how they conducted their tests. I did mine with a digital stopwatch. I also covered most of the other significant changes in the update. BTW, this update is free to current owners of Luminar 2018. In my article I also have links and codes that allow you to piggyback discounts if you have an interest in purchasing or upgrading from the 2017 version. Skylum is also including a bunch of extra freebies, many of which look useful. Hope you like the review- the data part is empirical but of course I express my opinions about other aspects, both positive and not positive. Joel

Does anyone has any real life experience on how the setting "High Performance Mode" in the power management will have an actual impact on the speed (boot up time, processing, focussing, etc...)? And if yes, is the battery power affected significantly? I'm just curious why the setting is turned off per default by Fuji. Btw, thanks fujirumors! If I had not read your tips on how to make the best out of the new AF system, I would not even know that this setting exists - Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot (CL or CH) if MS+ES (electronic shutter) is enabled. – Turn Off face detection to enable PDAF – High Performance Mode ON