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Found 5 results

  1. Hi All, I spent the last couple weeks throwing tough files (Fuji X-Trans 24MP, Sony 42MP) at the Luminar Jupiter update that was officially released yesterday (12 April) Skylum gave me an advance copy to do the testing so I wrote a review of this new release of Luminar, which I just posted on my blog and was also picked up by PetaPixel. I did my testing on an averagely equipped laptop and a fast desktop, both Macs. I have been hearing that Windows users aren't seeing speed increases as dramatic as on Mac platform. In case you saw Skylum's charts in their marketing, they make it look faster than my real world tests. But in all fairness, I don't know how they conducted their tests. I did mine with a digital stopwatch. I also covered most of the other significant changes in the update. BTW, this update is free to current owners of Luminar 2018. In my article I also have links and codes that allow you to piggyback discounts if you have an interest in purchasing or upgrading from the 2017 version. Skylum is also including a bunch of extra freebies, many of which look useful. Hope you like the review- the data part is empirical but of course I express my opinions about other aspects, both positive and not positive. Joel
  2. Note the halo effect around the officer's face that creates a terrible "cardboard cutout effect". What is this, and what is it caused by? XT2, 56 f1.2, 1/320 @ 1.2 , ISO 2500, RAF as shown in Lightroom. No amount of "zeroing out" or sharpening, noise reduction, clarity, etc. has had any effect. Nor does changing the camera profile help me in any way. I would note that the lighting is modern office fluorescent. Causes and or solutions anyone? I ask politely please, stay on topic in your replies. I know there are other converters out there, but I'm staying with LR. I know there are other cameras/sensors out there, but I'm heavily invested in this XT2 system. Curious as to why I'm seeing this and suggested solutions for Lightroom workflow or Photoshop workflow. Peter
  3. Hi Fuji lovers, I apologise if this has been asnwered already, but I have problem using both either built-in or 3rd party intervalometers. I was out last night trying to capture som startrails for the first time and I noticed that the delay between each shot I took was approximately 1:1 to the exposure time value I set on my Fuji X-T10. For example I would set 3rd party off brand chinese intervalometer "Shoot" with the following: DELAY: 2s (delay between pressing the shutter button and camera actually opening the shutter) LONG: 35s (how long the shutter should stay open) INTVL: 2s (as I understand this should be actual time setting between each shot taken) N: -- (number of pictures to take, infinity in this case) Camera in MANUAL mode, BULB, tungsten WB, ISO1600, RAW+JPEG, Single Shot mode, latest firmware. SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC UHS-I card. When the first picture was taken the camera would open the shutter, time would pass, then close the shutter and start "processing" the image and little square like loading circle appeared in the middle of the screen. This "processing" would take somewhere around 32seconds and only after that the camera would take yet another shot. I tried it with different LONG settings (5s, 10s, 45s) and the delay was always almost identical to the exposure time value. Another thing I noticed when I was out playing with the setting (and getting frustrated at this point) was that when I set exposure time to lets say 45s, camera would take the shot, started the whole "processing" thing, then open the shutter for 3.7s, close the shutter again, and only after that 3.7s shot open it again for another 45s shot. So when looking at the pictures in sequence as they were captured I would have stars, dark frame, stars, dark frame,... Is there some setting in X-T10 that I missed? Is this normal when taking long exposure pictures? Thanks for any advice.
  4. I'd like to suggest that with the release of the new Capture One Pro 9, perhaps Fujifilm could bundle the program in the way Sony has, instead of Silkypix. If you agree it would be a better alternative, maybe you could add an encouraging comment. Fujifilm is happy to improve the firmware, why not try to achieve a better image processing arrangement? The bundled Silkypix is pretty much ditched on opening by most people, being about as popular as scabies. The Adobe processing is still not the best. It'd be a real enhancement to Fuji's prestige to have such a comprehensive image editor that produces such superb results and users would gain better file handling, no longer having to pass files back and forwards between apps as they often do just now. Sony has done it. Surely Fuji can make it viable also. What do you think?
  5. Does anyone has any real life experience on how the setting "High Performance Mode" in the power management will have an actual impact on the speed (boot up time, processing, focussing, etc...)? And if yes, is the battery power affected significantly? I'm just curious why the setting is turned off per default by Fuji. Btw, thanks fujirumors! If I had not read your tips on how to make the best out of the new AF system, I would not even know that this setting exists - Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot (CL or CH) if MS+ES (electronic shutter) is enabled. – Turn Off face detection to enable PDAF – High Performance Mode ON
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