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  1. I shoot primarily fashion and portraiture, and have been using a Sony A7 since 2013 with Sony/Zeiss glass with great results for the most part. As my photography improves, I have been gaining a better understanding of my style and have been looking for ways to enhance that style. Essentially, I enjoy photos that have a timeless, vintage look, and sometimes dreamy look to them instead of modern photos that look just like a 100% true representation of the present reality. I know that this look could probably be obtained by using photoshop, tools like VSCO, etc (and this is likely what most people do). However, I have never enjoyed spending hours to manipulate a photo, nor do I find the results very satisfying (perhaps due to my limited knowledge of post-processing too). My solution became a simple one, where I began to explore the advantages of the mirrorless system by buying legacy lenses with the appropriate rendering for my style. In this case, I bought a Zeiss C-Sonnar 50/1.5 for M-mount. This approach worked well and gave me results that were vintage looking with lower contrast and the all important classical look. Of course, it is no secret that the characteristics of the lens translate directly to the sensor and the final photo, making it difficult to change my mind about the mood of a photo after the fact. Another problem is that the lenses are still not optimized for these mirrorless systems, and lens sharpness and performance is understandably lower as a result. There is alot of trial and error involved in finding and testing the right lenses with the appropriate rendering to fit the mood I am looking for. Yesterday, I bought a Summicron 50mm f2, and ended up not liking its rendering with my camera. This had me rethinking about my approach, since I also have an XT-1 that I have been borrowing, which is fantastic and achieves similar results with film simulations which could be altered after the photo is taken. Even when compared to Leica lenses, I find the Fuji glass is every bit as good, especially in terms of colour, sharpness, and micro-contrast. Yes, the photos must still be sharp to be acceptable, but for the most part, I prioritize lens rendering over sharpness. I don't need to have the sharpest lens in the world, but it has to be sharp enough for my use for photographing fashion and portraiture. What are your thoughts on my approach? Does using legacy vintage lenses produce a unique mood and rendering to the photos that is not possible to be created in post-processing? Instead, is it far more desirable to shoot using a neutral lens with extreme clarity and sharpness, and then adjust the rendering, colours, etc. in post-processing? Is Fuji X the solution? The photos attached shows my Jpegs straight out of camera with no editting using: 1) Girl with blonde hair - Sony A7 with Zeiss 50/1.5 C-Sonnar 2) Door - Fuji XT-1 with 23mm/1.4
  2. For location / studio work requiring off-camera flash /or strobes, I currently successfully use a Canon EOS 5D Mark III DSLR with a Phottix Odin Wireless TTL Trigger Set & Receivers for Canon. These power a combination of Phottix Indra 500 TTL Studio Lights and a couple of Canon 600EX RT Speedlites. That said; I want to use my Fuji XT-1 on many occasions, given it's professional image quality and compactness. My questions are: Can I use my Phottix Odin Wireless TTL Trigger on the Fuji XT-1 hotshoe? If not, can I plug it into the 'remote release' port on the XT-1? I assume it will not be TTL, but will require me to set the flashed manually? Is the sync speed limited to 1/180, (as/per the Fuji XT-1 specs), or will the high-speed sync still operate on my Phottix Indra 500 TTL Studio Lights? Any help appreciated. With thanks in advance.
  3. I'd like to suggest that with the release of the new Capture One Pro 9, perhaps Fujifilm could bundle the program in the way Sony has, instead of Silkypix. If you agree it would be a better alternative, maybe you could add an encouraging comment. Fujifilm is happy to improve the firmware, why not try to achieve a better image processing arrangement? The bundled Silkypix is pretty much ditched on opening by most people, being about as popular as scabies. The Adobe processing is still not the best. It'd be a real enhancement to Fuji's prestige to have such a comprehensive image editor that produces such superb results and users would gain better file handling, no longer having to pass files back and forwards between apps as they often do just now. Sony has done it. Surely Fuji can make it viable also. What do you think?
  4. Hi, I recently traveled to Berlin. Together with my Fuji XT-1 of course! Some minimalistic architectural photo's from the immense Tempelhof airport. Such a weird, but also big, impressive, piece of architecture with a lot of historical background, but in modern times it is a great escape from the city to many people. Just wanted to share three of my photo's, so here goes. more photo's @ www.robertdoeleman.com
  5. Hi all, I am not sure if this is an issue that I the photographer am making, or if it's an issue with my lens? Normal shots are awesome and its a great lens. However I am getting into cityscapes/long exposure, and I am noticing really ugly blown highlights with squiggles around them. This was shot at F/20, but even at larger apertures I have noticed this affect also. Maybe its adobe lightroom? Thoughts?
  6. First off the context I'm coming from is as a fashion, and commercial photographer who shoots with Nikon. I've been playing with Fujis for the last couple of years, and been following developments very closely, but haven't invested yet. I'd also like to add that I'm looking for camera systems that have strong options for photo and video. I'm not interested in buying a dedicated video camera as I'd just rent out a RED or similar when budget allows. Anyone who works in the commercial photography scene will know that video is creeping in to the field quite fast. It's becoming a necessity to expand your skill base, and photographers are expected to direct video, and stills on one day. Now after a long history of a single-minded focus on stills (which I fully appreciate), with the X T2 Fuji has proven that it can develop a camera with strong video capabilities. 4k from oversampled footage, and F-LOG. This is important because as photographer have to take on extra responsibilities, so does their gear. Currently Nikon video game is lacking. Sony has the A7r range for photos and the A7s range for video. Micro 4/3 has Olympus for photos, and Panasonic for video. Canon has DSLRs for photos, and a whole other video department (their DSLRs are about equal for video as Nikon) Part of the reason Sony, and Panasonic are doing so well for video is Price, and Weight. If you're using a Gimbal, or a lot of other equipment, weight becomes very important. I'm currently not interested in investing in Sony as it provides no benifits over Nikon in my opinion. I've shot with top end Olympus before and I'm not really a fan. This is what Fuji would need to create a very strong mirrorless that could compliment their photo based lineup, and strongly compete with other video centric cameras. HDMI out, while recording to SD card (for external monitor) In camera features like focus peaking, LUTs, etc Fully articulating screen Good sound input & Headphone port A zoom lens with great continuous video autofocus (maybe this is for firmware or in camera autofocus) 4k, 60fps (2k 60fps would be fine) High bit rate recording A phone app that can be used as external monitor with controls, focus peaking, LUTs, etc would be amazing. (this saving costs of external monitor would be instant buy for me)
  7. Original Blog Post: https://insigniachiaki.wordpress.com/2016/02/04/the-beauty-of-vintage-or-why-i-use-fuji-x/ Telling other photography enthusiasts that I use Fuji is sometimes a scary thing to do. You see, there are many other enthusiasts who believe that “Full Frame is the way to go” or that “Mirrorless cameras are for pussies”. Although I strongly disagree with these statements nowadays, I can see where they are coming from. Because being a FF-addict myself in the past, I can definitely remember my lust for ever-shallower DoP (BOKEHHHHHH!!!) and (on paper) amazing high ISO capabilities. But everything got a bit bland for me once I dove into the the world of FF cameras. Nikon D810s of the world and Sony α series of cameras of the world just seemed too boring for me. Sure, DSLRs are great work horses, but I find them implausible to shoot streets with without intimidating one or two pedestrians; Sony FF cameras are IQ-beasts, but I found them ill-designed in the software department. Now, I realize that photography is not all about the looks, the style, and glitters and gold, but sometimes just a bit of ‘oomph’ to entice one’s photography zeal wouldn’t be so bad, right? That’s exactly why I started exploring Fuji-X and vintage lenses. The new generation of APS-C sized sensors are really, really, really good, to my pleasant surprise. Recently updated models like Nikon’s D7200, Pentax’s K-3II, and Fuji’s 16 megapixel sensor cameras are all capable of squeezing out outstanding IQ in low light. In some cases these APS-C sensors, I found, are even outperforming certain FF cameras. (i.e. Sony’s original A7 and A7R) And today, Sony has just announced three G Master branded lenses to expand their growing FE mount lineup of lenses. They look incredibly amazing from the specs, and I truly believe Sony has just brought another wave of image quality revolution. I have never been disappointed by Sony cameras’ and high-end lenses’ image quality. With that being said, I can vividly remember the exactly same type of hype when Sony had just announced their A7R II, an on-paper beast of a camera that many thought could have slaughtered most other cameras on the market. 42.2 megapixels BI sensor, 4K internal recording, 399 AF points, and now with 14-bit uncompressed RAW! Wow! However, it wasn’t until recently that most people could get their hands on the A7R II that many now have cooled down from that initial hype. The roller coaster-ride that was the A7R II had so much promise, and was indeed a revolution in an otherwise-bland year of 2015 for cameras; however, there were also a lot of swings and misses (overheating issues, ergonomics concerns, annoying menus etc.) from the A7R II that reminded photography enthusiasts and pros alike that “specs aren’t everything” when it comes to really shooting a camera in the field.
  8. Here are a couple of shots I took with the XF90mm f/2 lens the other day. Just incredibly sharp even at f/2 - almost to sharp, and can be quite unflattering! These are B&W JPEGS from the camera with only a minor touch up in PS to remove a coupe of stray hairs, otherwise they are effectively SOOC.
  9. I've written up my thoughts on the XF90mm lens from Fujifilm, including some images from a recent shoot and a few other samples. http://photomadd.com/fujifilm-xf90mm-f2-lens-review-and-gallery/ Hope you enjoy! Matt
  10. Hi Fujilovers! I had an idea if anyone is interested… As you may know, the company Viltrox is producing AF adapters for M lenses and AF Speed Booster adapters for Sony APS-C. Wouldn't it be amazing if they made one for Fuji X mount, also lot's of mounts would be great (MD, M42, PK, OM, FD, Canon EF,…) like with their other adapters. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Viltrox-EF-E-Mount-Adapter-Auto-Focus-AF-for-Canon-EF-to-Sony-E-mount-APS-C-/321960438601?hash=item4af6566b49:g:daoAAOSwBLlVbQ~N Yes I am aware the AF speed is nowhere near Fuji's lenses, but the idea is somewhat promising. Wouldn't that be amazing? Having a reasonably cheap, ''high quality'' focal reducer, making your camera ''work'' like it's almost full frame in some aspects (depth of field) and gathering 1 extra stop of light and also using it for auto focusing your adapted MF lenses. For me at least, that would change the whole perspective on the ''adapting lenses'' thing, as the adapter is rather small and the benefits (1EV, sharpness, FF depth, lens character, BOKEH!!) are just too big to ignore. The X-Pro2 and newer ILC X-Mount cameras would benefit a lot from this, considering the AF is up to modern standards. I don't see why Viltrox couldn't make this possible. There's gonna be a lot of people buying the X-Pro2, X-T2,… and many of them have at least some old MF lenses. This would work with most vintage glass (Leica M mount excluded).
  11. Hey guys, Noticing an odd problem. When doing time-lapses with the X-T10 I've noticed that the camera shuts off to conserve power given an interval of 1 minute or longer. I've been trying to focus the camera and use it in manual mode but when the camera shuts off in between shots the lens collapses and then doesn't refocus because it's in manual focus mode. Anyone know how to get around this? Also, still looking for a good time lapse software, if you have any recs. Andrew
  12. Hey guys, Just tried out the built in time lapse feature for the first time. Wondering what you guys use to stitch the images together? Andrew
  13. Hey guys, Just tried out the built in time lapse feature for the first time. Wondering what you guys use to stitch the images together? Andrew
  14. I can't see anywhere on the forum to buy or sell. Is there such a thing?
  15. Hey guys Firstly I love Fuji, and believe they are awesome for unleashing the most out of their gear through various big firmware updates. However I cannot understand why Fuji keep ignoring the poor +1/-1 exposure bracketing!!! Seriously; there is no reason not to enable more, I'd imagine a simple line or two of code. People have been asking for a long time, yet they seem almost insistent in ignoring this? Even though I don't like the super HDR shot, it can be very handy under difficult lighting to capture the best exposure. Thoughts?
  16. Hi, I read Fuji Rumors pretty much every day, and I found it good to join the community ! I first started to shoot with vintage cameras like the Pentax K1000. Later, I fell in love with the touch and feeling of Fujifilm X-Series, that I use now almost exclusively. I know have a X-M1, and recently bought a X-T10. My lenses are : XC 16-55 OIS, XF27mm f2.8 (really compact with the X-M1), XF35mm f1.4 (the one like the most). I also have an adapter that allows me to mount my pentax lenses on the fuji (just received that last week, so I still have to learn how to take the best of this configuration).
  17. Hey! In August I was travelling through Portugal for good 3 weeks with my recently acquired Fuji X-T20 and the Fuji 14mm F2.8, Fuji 23mm F2.0 and the Fuji 56mm F1.2. Hope you enjoy the photos 1.Faro 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
  18. Hello, My shutter has been stuck at 1/500 and I can't change it. I can move the shutter wheel, but shutter in camera doesn't do anything. I have been trying rotating wheel in front but that doesn't help. Anyone got any experience with this ? thanks.
  19. Hi there, First of all, many thanks for your great work. I really appreciate this forum. Two weeks ago my XF23mmF1.4 arrived and I was so happy to test it. I already own an XF35mmF1.4 and a XF16-55mmF2.8WR and I really would like to add this focal length to my lenses, since I always loved shooting at 23mm (35mm eq.) in the past. I was suddenly disappointed by the lens. Since the first shot it produced images that are blurred and in some way soft. Obviously, I know that I cannot expect the best at f/1.4, and I also know that the compare with the XF35mm is not fair. With all this background of knowledge, however, results are not possible given the cost and the buzz that surround this lens. I have attached to sample. The first one is shot both at f/2.8 on the XF23mm and on the XF16-55 at 23mm zoom level. As you may see with your eyes even the zoom lens is worst and at the maximum aperture it produce a better quality image without blur and softness. In the second example I just shooted at f2 on the XF23mm and at f2.8 on the XF50-140mm in a sunny day without any "critical condition". Even in this case, the XF23mm output is blurred without any sharp. I returned the lens to FUJIFILM asking for a replacement or a complete refund. I am absolutely disappointed by this experience. All comments are welcome.
  20. I have just returned home after spending three days in a monastery with two monks. Here is a first draft. What do you think? The plan is returning there over time and trying to find something deeper to tell. X-Pro2 23/2 https://www.instagram.com/landberg/
  21. Hi, so I shoot mostly using the LCD, from the hip, and I encountered a program today with my XT1's. Somewhat similar to an old post: https://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/1948-x-t1-lcd-fails-when-articulated/ But my situation is a little different. When my LCD is completely flush, in the normal position against the body, it will be totally blacked out/looking like it's off. I've cycled the 'viewmode' and nothing has helped. I did a factory reset and updated the firmware. But I believe I have a body-to-LCD ribbon short. If I pull the LCD away it will work, but only in a limited range. From angled slightly upwards to completely flat facing upwards to the sky. If it's totally parallel with the body to facing downs toward the ground, the LCD will black out/turn off. I can still take photos when it's like this though. I'm pretty sure it's a short in the ribbon — if I push the ribbon around very gently, the screen will go on and off. But anyway, I would like to put this problem out there and see if anyone has encountered it before. The camera has seen a lot of use in the last 3 years, but no drops/damage. Luckily the EVF works normally and used XT1s are pretty cheap now. Let me know if you have any suggestions, thanks!
  22. © Tariq Seedin

  23. Hello Everyone, I just picked up an XT2 and this is my first Fuji camera, really excited about using it. I've been watching a lot of youtube videos and reading forum post to familiarize myself with the camera and its settings. I am very impressed by the film simulations but really confused on how to use them in conjunction with RAW files. I was under the impression that if I shoot RAW+JPEG(Fine/Norma) with a film simulation selected (e.g. Chrome). Simulation is applied to JPEG only and RAW file is pure raw without any processing that I can edit however I want in post processing. But I took the camera out for the first time and realized the film simulation is applied to both JPEG and RAW. Is there a way to shoot with film simulation applied to JPEG but get unprocessed RAW files from XT2? Thanks for everyone's help in advance!
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