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Found 46 results

  1. I have a Fuji XT3 camera for about 3 months now. Great camera, really liking it much more than my previous camera. Can say that for sure because I use it more and it makes me feel take more pictures and improve. Such a powerful camera that's so light weight. Some three weeks ago, when taking a video, it resulted in a write error. I have tried formatting the cards, upgrading the firmware and also changed the prefix of the file name (after seeing this as a fix for the problem). But so far no luck. It constantly gives the error when taking pictures. When I check there are many files missing in the sequence. I also noticed that if you sort by time, the file name sequencing is not proper...meaning they are not perfectly ascending or descending. At places, they are off by one or two file names in the sequence. Fuji is asking to send for inspection. But I would like to know from fellow members if anybody has faced this issue and if Fuji has a sure shot fix for it. I know for many, they have even replaced the motherboard in a brand new camera with the issue still persisting. It seems mine is the first camera in India that has the problem according to the service dept. This problem started after I shot the video for the first time using the camera. After that the error can mostly be replicated in CL/CH or Panorama mode. Tried different cards also.
  2. I've been using Fuji X-series cameras for a few years now, and have owned several of them. I would like to know how to report a camera firmware bug with Fuji, and also how to submit firmware feature requests so that it reaches the right people in the US or Japan. Does anyone know how I can do this? So far I've tried submitting via the official contact form here: https://www.fujifilmusa.com/support/ServiceSupportContactForm.do?catid=464128&prodcat=234644 However, that just resulted in a generic "please call this phone number" response. I called the number they recommended, and got passed to Fujifilm Corporate in Valhalla, NY, where my inquiry dead-ended since I don't know who to ask for in their phone system. Ideally, this would be sent via email anyway. I must say, for a company that prides itself on continuously improving its firmware, I find it a little surprising that Fuji doesn't seem to make it easy for users to report bugs and send feedback on their products. Does anyone know how to get in touch with Fuji? Furthermore, once we have this information, perhaps it would be a good idea for this community to post a pinned discussion on how to contact the company with bugs and feature suggestions?
  3. Initial lens review of Viltrox 85mm F1.8 lens on Fujifilm X-T30 camera.
  4. Article on Lens Review - 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 1:1 Macro with Fuji X-T30 camera. Image samples on 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 lens Flickr group. Article on disassembly, focus calibration of 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 lens
  5. After moving to Fuji X system I extensively used large number of Trans-X bodies and XF lens. Most of them perform excellent optically and very good mechanically. I think Fuji is doing great job designing and supporting gear. The only thing is bothering me all the time - if the electronics is dead lens typically becomes fully unusable. There are numerous third party or adapted fully manual lens that solve that concern. But what if I want to keep using my favorite Fuji optics mechanically? I've performed numerous attempts and discovered potential of converting XF 35mm F1.4 and XF 27mm F2.8, and recently found highly satisfying result of adapting Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 that requires relatively low effort. Here's resulting article explaining what can you do with electronically dead Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens to bring it back to life in much more compact frame of Industar 50-2. Alternatively you can also use adapted Fuji XF 27mm F2.8 lens on other APS-C cameras like Sony or Canon.
  6. Hello, I noticed today that the latch which is turned to open the battery chamber on my xh1 battery grip does not snap shut, but dangles freely. Is this by design, or a flaw on my grip? Am I missing something to lock it down? It doesn't cause any issues for me, just slightly annoying. Thanks for any responses!
  7. From the album: Icelandic trip

    © lf-photography

  8. From the album: Icelandic trip

    © lf-photography

  9. From the album: x100t - new toy

    got up early, but not before the mossies

    © chasable

  10. From the album: X-photo

    Fashion on the road in Naples Italy

    © 2016 Renato Luchini

  11. From the album: X-photo

    Fuji XT1 - XF 351,4

    © 2016 Renato Luchini

  12. Hey! In August I was travelling through Portugal for good 3 weeks with my recently acquired Fuji X-T20 and the Fuji 14mm F2.8, Fuji 23mm F2.0 and the Fuji 56mm F1.2. Hope you enjoy the photos 1.Faro 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
  13. Hello, My shutter has been stuck at 1/500 and I can't change it. I can move the shutter wheel, but shutter in camera doesn't do anything. I have been trying rotating wheel in front but that doesn't help. Anyone got any experience with this ? thanks.
  14. I have just returned home after spending three days in a monastery with two monks. Here is a first draft. What do you think? The plan is returning there over time and trying to find something deeper to tell. X-Pro2 23/2 https://www.instagram.com/landberg/
  15. First off the context I'm coming from is as a fashion, and commercial photographer who shoots with Nikon. I've been playing with Fujis for the last couple of years, and been following developments very closely, but haven't invested yet. I'd also like to add that I'm looking for camera systems that have strong options for photo and video. I'm not interested in buying a dedicated video camera as I'd just rent out a RED or similar when budget allows. Anyone who works in the commercial photography scene will know that video is creeping in to the field quite fast. It's becoming a necessity to expand your skill base, and photographers are expected to direct video, and stills on one day. Now after a long history of a single-minded focus on stills (which I fully appreciate), with the X T2 Fuji has proven that it can develop a camera with strong video capabilities. 4k from oversampled footage, and F-LOG. This is important because as photographer have to take on extra responsibilities, so does their gear. Currently Nikon video game is lacking. Sony has the A7r range for photos and the A7s range for video. Micro 4/3 has Olympus for photos, and Panasonic for video. Canon has DSLRs for photos, and a whole other video department (their DSLRs are about equal for video as Nikon) Part of the reason Sony, and Panasonic are doing so well for video is Price, and Weight. If you're using a Gimbal, or a lot of other equipment, weight becomes very important. I'm currently not interested in investing in Sony as it provides no benifits over Nikon in my opinion. I've shot with top end Olympus before and I'm not really a fan. This is what Fuji would need to create a very strong mirrorless that could compliment their photo based lineup, and strongly compete with other video centric cameras. HDMI out, while recording to SD card (for external monitor) In camera features like focus peaking, LUTs, etc Fully articulating screen Good sound input & Headphone port A zoom lens with great continuous video autofocus (maybe this is for firmware or in camera autofocus) 4k, 60fps (2k 60fps would be fine) High bit rate recording A phone app that can be used as external monitor with controls, focus peaking, LUTs, etc would be amazing. (this saving costs of external monitor would be instant buy for me)
  16. Hi, so I shoot mostly using the LCD, from the hip, and I encountered a program today with my XT1's. Somewhat similar to an old post: https://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/1948-x-t1-lcd-fails-when-articulated/ But my situation is a little different. When my LCD is completely flush, in the normal position against the body, it will be totally blacked out/looking like it's off. I've cycled the 'viewmode' and nothing has helped. I did a factory reset and updated the firmware. But I believe I have a body-to-LCD ribbon short. If I pull the LCD away it will work, but only in a limited range. From angled slightly upwards to completely flat facing upwards to the sky. If it's totally parallel with the body to facing downs toward the ground, the LCD will black out/turn off. I can still take photos when it's like this though. I'm pretty sure it's a short in the ribbon — if I push the ribbon around very gently, the screen will go on and off. But anyway, I would like to put this problem out there and see if anyone has encountered it before. The camera has seen a lot of use in the last 3 years, but no drops/damage. Luckily the EVF works normally and used XT1s are pretty cheap now. Let me know if you have any suggestions, thanks!
  17. Hey guys, So, I used the XH-1 to shoot a short film last year and it felt just right for a low budget film, that is shot in natural light, little time and only a tripod for stabilization. Really was drawn to the ETERNA, film simulation that was said to be ideal for shooting movies. I found the low contrast it provided - allowed more flexibility in post, i color corrected in Premiere which has its own library of film stocks to apply. But, I will enjoyed the look it provided - especially given it's a DSLR and not a camcorder. With that, you still face the highlights being blown out when you are shooting alongside a window. But, that can be sort of fixed in post. In summation, I'd say this could be a long term example of what can work on low budget projects. p.s. really liked the lens as well - it allowed me to of course maintain focus on my actors even when I was in really tight/close settings. any thoughts or comments, please let me know - i am very open to feedback
  18. swallero

    Valle Gesso

    From the album: samyang 12mm F/2 - swallero

    Delightful sight of the Valle della Valletta, in the Gesso Valley, Western Alps, Piedmont, Italy

    © Stefano Gabriele Vallero

  19. From the album: samyang 12mm F/2 - swallero

    Sun reflecting on the glassy surface of the Print Media Academy building in Heidelberg, Germany

    © Stefano Gabriele Vallero

  20. From the album: samyang 12mm F/2 - swallero

    Last rays of sun over the fields in the Piedmont countryside. Shot with Fujifilm X-t1 and Samyang 12mm F/2

    © Stefano Gabriele Vallero

  21. Hi there, First of all, many thanks for your great work. I really appreciate this forum. Two weeks ago my XF23mmF1.4 arrived and I was so happy to test it. I already own an XF35mmF1.4 and a XF16-55mmF2.8WR and I really would like to add this focal length to my lenses, since I always loved shooting at 23mm (35mm eq.) in the past. I was suddenly disappointed by the lens. Since the first shot it produced images that are blurred and in some way soft. Obviously, I know that I cannot expect the best at f/1.4, and I also know that the compare with the XF35mm is not fair. With all this background of knowledge, however, results are not possible given the cost and the buzz that surround this lens. I have attached to sample. The first one is shot both at f/2.8 on the XF23mm and on the XF16-55 at 23mm zoom level. As you may see with your eyes even the zoom lens is worst and at the maximum aperture it produce a better quality image without blur and softness. In the second example I just shooted at f2 on the XF23mm and at f2.8 on the XF50-140mm in a sunny day without any "critical condition". Even in this case, the XF23mm output is blurred without any sharp. I returned the lens to FUJIFILM asking for a replacement or a complete refund. I am absolutely disappointed by this experience. All comments are welcome.
  22. I shoot primarily fashion and portraiture, and have been using a Sony A7 since 2013 with Sony/Zeiss glass with great results for the most part. As my photography improves, I have been gaining a better understanding of my style and have been looking for ways to enhance that style. Essentially, I enjoy photos that have a timeless, vintage look, and sometimes dreamy look to them instead of modern photos that look just like a 100% true representation of the present reality. I know that this look could probably be obtained by using photoshop, tools like VSCO, etc (and this is likely what most people do). However, I have never enjoyed spending hours to manipulate a photo, nor do I find the results very satisfying (perhaps due to my limited knowledge of post-processing too). My solution became a simple one, where I began to explore the advantages of the mirrorless system by buying legacy lenses with the appropriate rendering for my style. In this case, I bought a Zeiss C-Sonnar 50/1.5 for M-mount. This approach worked well and gave me results that were vintage looking with lower contrast and the all important classical look. Of course, it is no secret that the characteristics of the lens translate directly to the sensor and the final photo, making it difficult to change my mind about the mood of a photo after the fact. Another problem is that the lenses are still not optimized for these mirrorless systems, and lens sharpness and performance is understandably lower as a result. There is alot of trial and error involved in finding and testing the right lenses with the appropriate rendering to fit the mood I am looking for. Yesterday, I bought a Summicron 50mm f2, and ended up not liking its rendering with my camera. This had me rethinking about my approach, since I also have an XT-1 that I have been borrowing, which is fantastic and achieves similar results with film simulations which could be altered after the photo is taken. Even when compared to Leica lenses, I find the Fuji glass is every bit as good, especially in terms of colour, sharpness, and micro-contrast. Yes, the photos must still be sharp to be acceptable, but for the most part, I prioritize lens rendering over sharpness. I don't need to have the sharpest lens in the world, but it has to be sharp enough for my use for photographing fashion and portraiture. What are your thoughts on my approach? Does using legacy vintage lenses produce a unique mood and rendering to the photos that is not possible to be created in post-processing? Instead, is it far more desirable to shoot using a neutral lens with extreme clarity and sharpness, and then adjust the rendering, colours, etc. in post-processing? Is Fuji X the solution? The photos attached shows my Jpegs straight out of camera with no editting using: 1) Girl with blonde hair - Sony A7 with Zeiss 50/1.5 C-Sonnar 2) Door - Fuji XT-1 with 23mm/1.4
  23. I cant decide between the 10-24 and the 16 mm 1.4 fuji lens. I have the xt-1 and x-70. As well as the 35m1.4 and 18mm f2 . I would really like a zoom but I also really want the wide low light capabilities of the 16. I do a wide variety of shooting now. Landscape, Street, Portrait, but i also want to get into more night shooting of downtown los angeles and the urban architecture and life and low light shooting. So i am pretty torn on which to go for. I am fairly new to photography and some people have told me that the 10-24 is really go in low light because of ois but I have no idea. I need to decide sometime today. Thanks for your help guys.
  24. Hi, I recently traveled to Berlin. Together with my Fuji XT-1 of course! Some minimalistic architectural photo's from the immense Tempelhof airport. Such a weird, but also big, impressive, piece of architecture with a lot of historical background, but in modern times it is a great escape from the city to many people. Just wanted to share three of my photo's, so here goes. more photo's @ www.robertdoeleman.com
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