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Found 39 results

  1. Hello everybody! There is a problem with the SMC Takumar 50/1.4 lens. I have a Fuji X-T10. I bought lens on ebay from Japan - SMC Takumar Also bought an adapter - Adapter When installing the adapter and lens there is no focused image, the image is blurred. The manual focus wheel on the lens does not adjust the focus. The settings on the camera are set correctly - the focus is transferred to the manual mode, the mode "Shoot without lens" is set. What could be the problem? Adapter? Lens? Camera settings? Examples of photos attached. I would be grateful for any help. Ilya.
  2. I just brought my Fuji X-T10 and am very happy with the camera unfortunately Lightroom 5.6 doesn't recognise the raw files yet. Is there any other photo editing software I could use.
  3. So, I bought an X-T20 just over a month ago. I live in the Middle East and it's not easy to come by accessories here, so I had to do a lot of research on what I might need. I read reviews online, watched You-Tube videos and searched the net. One of the biggest bugbears that people seem to have with the X-T10 and 20 is the small hand grip. There appeared to be three solutions that would suit or assist me. - The Hand Grip - A hand strap - A thumb rest It seemed to me that all three would be useful in one way or another, so I bought a secondhand Fuji MHG-XT10 Hand Grip on eBay, a Peak Design Clutch Hand Strap from Wex Cameras and a hot shoe mounted thumb rest from China. The attached photo shows the thumb rest and hand strap...
  4. Hi, sorry if this is a repeat post. I'm new to the X-T10 and was wondering if it's usual to have a LOT of noise/grain in the EVF and LCD in lowlight/dark conditions? I was hoping to photograph the moon last night, but could barely see anything on the screen or in the EVF when trying to compose the shot due to all the noise. Is this normal for the X-T10? I realise it probably boosts the gain up in lowlight conditions, but it made it pretty impossible to focus or frame anything at all unless I half pressed the shutter release. It's a lovely camera, and this is gutting if this is the case and not a faulty model as I love night photography.
  5. I wanted to see if I can get rid of the Sony, given I enjoy much more the results I'm getting from the Fuji in terms of colors and ease of post-processing. So today I put them one against the other taking identical shots few seconds apart. You can see below a couple of twin crops (click on them to see them properly, albeit softened by the web compression probably used by the forum software backend) that on a normal, non-retina, screen will have the same dimensions of a print of a 100cm length. In each, one of the images has been shot with a Sony A7r ("Vivid" picture style), the other with the X-T10 ("Velvia" film simulation), trying to match the colors to a reasonable approximation. Both using Contax Zeiss glass at f/11 (a 50/1.7 Planar on the Sony, a 35/2.8 Distagon on the Fuji; I know these lenses well, and from f/5.6 forward they are undistinguishable so any difference is due the sensor, not the lens). Irident (or RawTherapee with deconvolution sharpening and microcontast) would be able to squeeze even more details from the X-T10, but for these examples I've used Photoshop CS 6.1 I'm extremely impressed, to say the least. Remembering that you will watch a print this big at least from 60/80cm apart, so please don't put your nose on the screen , can you tell which one is which2? Hint: if I keep getting these results my A7r is hitting eBay soon! 1Using the following sharpening procedure, should you be curious. SHARPENING METHOD USED Keep in mind that the following values are indicative (you'll have to tweak them based on the picture content and the amount of detail) and based on fairly big prints, like 60x90cm and up. However, given that to properly apply them you will have to use your picture as a "Smart object", they might work even for smaller print sizes, especially toning down the radiuses. In Lightroom or in Camera Raw (same thing) I give the files a fairly conservative (for an X-trans sensor) capture sharpening: amount 40 / radius 1 / details 60 / masking 10. Then I open the file in Photoshop as a "Smart object" and I resize it to fit my desired print dimensions. At that point I use first the old, classic "Unsharp mask": amount 120%, radius 1.5 pixels, threshold 0. And finally "Smart sharpen" in "Advanced" mode to extract the textures and the small detail (this takes care of the watercolor effect, basically). General tab: amount 131%, radius 1.5 pixels, "Lens blur" with "More accurate" activated Shadows: fade amount 60%, tonal width 50, radius 1 Highlights: fade amount 20%, tonal width 50, radius 1 OPTIONAL STEP (not used in the samples above): at this point, should you want results more comparable to Irident, but at the cost of a tad more noise, you should add another round of "Smart sharpen": amount 40, radius 1. After these steps all that's left is print sharpening, but of that I usually let the now free Nik Sharpen plugin take care of. 2In both cases left Sony A7r, right Fuji X-T10
  6. So I've ordered the Fuji X-T10 along with the Fujinon 60mm 2.4 (to coincide with the X100s and TCL-X100 that I already own) in order to finally start second shooting for local documentary wedding photographers. Obviously, I would love more lenses but money is VERY tight at the moment and this was the absolute max budget I could afford until after the summer. It worked out at £670 overall ($984), including a cashback offer Fuji currently have on bodies in the UK. I would LOVE a 56mm but they are more than double the price of the 60mm. I was torn between the 35mm and 60mm as they were approx the same price, ish, but I decided to go with the 60mm as it is obviously a much different focal length to the X100s. My question is, have I made the right decision? The order has been placed and now buyers remorse has set in! Surely the Fuji X100s (with or without the TCL) would be just too close to the 35mm? Right? Surely the variety of the X100 along with the X-T10 + 60mm give me better options going forward for (documentary) wedding photography? Also, does anyone have any experience with the 60mm on the X-T10? Thanks guys, I appreciate any advice/feedback/experience you have for me.
  7. Hello respected photographers and members, I am planning to buy a Fuji XT10 in near future. I have seen almost all the reviews in youtube regarding xt10 and I am very much convinced that it will be a good camera to buy. I also want to buy the accessories needed for the camera. So I have a few qs in mind regarding the camera & the accessories. I will be much obliged if someone helps me out: 1. I live in a country where 99% photographers use either canon or nikon. So when I am asking for advice from someone, people are discouraging me to buy a Fuji. But I am really inclined to Fuji XT10 due to the form factor & quality. So what you guys suggest? 2. I am kind of unhappy that XT10 doesn't have OIS built-in. So what you say will it be a big deal shooting with XT10 with non-IS lenses? I am a smartphone photographer, so I know OIS is a big deal for smartphone photography. Should I wait for XT20 (or something like that)? 3. How good really is the kit lens (18-55mm) for the beginning? I like nature photography as well as street. But of course I will take portraits too. 4. I have a bunch of 52mm filters. The kit lens has 58mm thread. If I use a 58-52mm step down ring, will it cause uncorrectable vignetting? 5. Will any 58mm lens cap fit with the kit lens? 6. Suppose I plan to buy new filters. What will the best size to choose keeping in mind that in future I may broaden my lens collection. And if I buy bigger filters, what type of lens caps should I buy? What size more preciously. 7. Is anyone using 3rd party or different OEM lenses with XT10? How's the performance? 8. What lens (Fuji or any other good ones) will be the best for a little bit wide angle distortion but not full fish eye effect? 9. What speedlight should I buy? I am a tight on my budget. 10. Can anyone compare the kit lens with the LG G4 camera if possible? Many many thanks if u have read this thread and many more thanks if you can help me with these.
  8. Hi, I have an information about a lost X-T10 camera with 16 GB SD Card on Saturday, 25 June 2016 at Meteora, Greece. If the owner reads that post, please, contact me on sulyopulyo@yahoo.co.jp
  9. Hi there, Back in January I went to my favourite camera shop (London Camera Exchange in Plymouth) with the idea of trading in my Sony NEX-5 for an a6000. I also took my old Canon EOS 350 & associated lenses along with a Leica D-Lux3 compact, just to see if I would get a decent part exchange valuation against the proposed new Sony. They gave me a good quote for the old gear, so I was *just* about to seal the deal on the a6000 when I said to the assistant "Is there anything else I should consider as a Sony alternative?" They showed me an Olympus OM D (which was very nice) & then showed me the Fuji X-T10 - Wow! What a brilliant camera. I was immediately knocked out by the build quality & the whole feel & appearance. Needless to say I walked out with the kit with the 18-55 & 55-200 lenses; what a revelation the Fuji system has been - no regrets at all. I have one main question re' processing the Fuji RAW files. At present I have a 9 year old iMac which means I'm restricted to using Lightroom 5.7.1, which can't handle the RAW files natively (I have to convert them to DNG before Lightroom will touch them). I've had a look around online & Iridient Developer seems to be well regarded for handling the X-Trans RAW files; does anyone have experience of Iridient or, come to that, any other RAW processors? Apologies for rambling & if this needs to be posted to a more relevant thread please let me know. Thanks.
  10. I headed over to Silverstone on Saturday afternoon to shoot the Hankook 24hr Race with my new 100-400mm on my X-T10. It was a great experience and the kit worked superbly well, despite the challenging conditions... Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr
  11. I know Fuji cameras are bad at video and you need to be really careful to get anything worth looking at (use a tripod to avoid shake-related jaggies, avoid moiré-inducing textures, use MF to avoid focus hesitation), but I have some things I want to record and so far the ability to use my f/1.4 primes means my X-T10 is still probably the best way to get it done. Assuming I can record something that looks good, I still need to figure out audio, as the internal mic is obviously just okay, and if my 35mm f/1.4 is ever in AF mode the noise it makes re-adjusting focus is really really loud. So what will I need to use an external mic with the X-T10? I know the mic jack is 2.5mm rather than the more common 3.5mm. Has anyone gotten an adapter to work for it? When I look at adapters on Amazon a lot of them specifically mention that the microphone won't work but they are talking about headphone+mic "headsets" rather than e.g. a small lavalier mic plugged in (e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-107121-2-5mm-Adaptor-Plated/dp/B005KP2AJY/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1441477003&sr=1-7&keywords=2.5mm+3.5mm+microphone ). Anyone have an adapter they bought that they know works with Fuji cameras? In terms of the mic itself I'm leaning towards this Audio Technica lavalier mic because it's pretty cheap, has a long cord and will also work with my iPhone if I want to record sepearately and sync up later. http://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATR3350IS-Lavalier-Microphone-Smartphones/dp/B00HZA6EJO/ref=pd_cp_267_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0GB9Z66AP2R02AWFTF07 Anyone know a reason why this wouldn't work with my X-T10+an adapter? Advice for a better setup to use with X-T10? Thanks for any advice about what I should buy, or also any general advice about audio recording on Fuji cameras.
  12. I just found that the latest firmware for X-T1 / X-T10 can now support 1/250 flash sync. I've tested with Nissin i40, as well as Cactus RF60 with V6 transceiver. It didn't work before, but now it does! I checked the release notes of all previous firmwares, but such update has never been mentioned before. It seems that Fuji hasn't officially announced such update yet, but the feature is there already.
  13. The X-T10 is a wonderful camera. I'm primarily a Sony shooter (A7r), but the recently acquired X-T10 is the camera I pick up just for the joy of shooting it (and yes, at this point I'll completely switch to Fuji as soon as X-Pro 2 prices will come down to earth). That said, there are a few things Fuji screwed up (intentionally? to push us into buying the X-T1?) with the X-T10 and some of them (2, 3, 4, 5) can be fixed in firmware, others will require a new iteration of the body. 1) We need the ability to fit a larger eyecup, period. Even the cheapest film cameras had this feature, why forego one of the main usability point if you're a company that has built is reputation on haptic and user experience? (I have to be able to see the scene clearly to be then able to capture it in a good way, or not?)* *that said, I might have found a DIY way to use a larger cup, I'll post the results should the experiment be successful EDIT: yep, it worked. You can check the results here: http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2284-sugru-nikon-dk-19-x-t10-extended-eyepiece/ 2) Why give us a bracketing option, but then hamper it with a limit to 3 frames with +/- 1 stop max? I can easily recover that amount in post, often even in jpeg. What we need is at least a +/- 2 stops, and better still the ability to shoot up to 7 frames to make HDR easy* *no, not "that" kind of HDR; but in landscape photography you often find yourself exceeding the capabilities of a sensor, and is nice to have the option to work with "deeper" (in terms of bit) files anyway 3) The self timer belongs on the "Drive" control wheel, if not for anything else for consistency and logic. With a firmware update you could easily let us assign one of the options on the wheel to that 4) People are alway whining about Sony and Olympus menus. I use both and guess what? Compared to them Fuji ones are even worst (even though, to be fair, they've come a long way since the original X100). Come on, get a grip and clean them up, or we'll send you to bed without dinner* *yes, with the "Q" menu you don't have to dig into the main menu that often. But still... 5) Lastly, not a mistake but a personal preference. I'd like very much the ability to assign the movie button to the focus magnification. I have that set up in the same place for all my other cameras (Sony and Olympus), and the consistency would be nice Other than that, IMO you've built an instant classic.
  14. Can you advise some kind of swivel trigger clips to easy put on or take out the strap from an X-T10? Thanks.
  15. Hello everyone, I got myself a Fujifilm X-T10 a couple of days ago and I just want to know if there is any way to reset the AF point with a button to the middle of the frame. I know this function is there on the Canon EOS 5D III, where you just press the joystick in to reset the AF to the middle point. I am not sure about it but I had an X-E1 some time ago for a few weeks and I think I could reset the AF point bi pressing the control wheel on the back of the camera. Now, when I press the wheel on the back of the X-T10 it will reset the box size but not move the point to the middle. I'd like to have a quick way to reset my AF point so I know when I put the camera to my eye that there is my AF point waiting for me in the middle if I need to grab a quick shot. Right now if I use it somwhere near the corners I need to look for my AF point and sometimes it is just hard to find or in the worst location imaginable... fiddleing with the buttons to move it somwhere usable for my subject more often than not results in a missed shot. I just really got used to this function on the Canon 5D and I don't want to miss it on the Fuji, especially when there is some kind of half-reset with the press of the back wheel. Please tell me that I just overlooked some menu point where you can set the camera up like this. Please. I'm already bummed that the wheel direction to change things like ISO cannot be inverted...
  16. I recently purchased the XT-10. I am working on my manual mode skills and have a question. I have my light meter in my EVF, but when I need to change the ISO to reach proper exposure I have to press and use the front dial which takes me to another internal screen. This leaves me having to guess how high I need to go with my ISO to hit the proper exposure. Right now I just guess then check back to my normal EVF view and then have to make an adjustment again if I guessed wrong. Is there a way for me to change my ISO and have it show me live in the EVF light meter like it does for aperture and shutter speed changes? Thanks, Kim
  17. I have been a Nikon user since around 2007 when I moved to a DSLR. Before that I had experience with Fuji cameras (FinePix E900) and loved the pictures I took with it. Over the years I went through some experimenting with camera and lens combinations before my current setup, the Nikon D7100 and 18-300 lens. I used to travel a lot and took pictures like crazy from trains, buses, helicopters as well as during walks. I don't have time or patience to keep switching lenses and the 18-300 has been good for the most part even though the images are a little soft. I also despise tripods or posing people and prefer to shoot in the moment. Anyway enough about my history and preferences, lets get to the point. I have been investigating moving into mirrorless and considering options outside of Nikon which brought me to looking over the Sony range and of course returning to Fuji. The Sony a7 II has a nice feel to it and specs but is way too expensive for my tastes and I'm not much of a Sony fan as I had bad experiences with their cameras in the past (pre-Fuji). The Fuji X-T10 seems like reasonably priced system and I have been enjoying the photos I have seen taken with it. Of course any such move to a new camera brings in the concerns so I thought, who would have better information than this group. Any Nikon converts want to share their experience? I am also open to taking advice on lenses since there doesn't seem to an 18-300 equivalent for the Fuji. Thanks in advance.
  18. Hey guys, Just tried out the built in time lapse feature for the first time. Wondering what you guys use to stitch the images together? Andrew
  19. hambern

    DSCT10STD

    From the album: X100 vs X-T10

    This is the new Provia – The standard setting on X-T10
  20. hambern

    DSCT10NPS

    From the album: X100 vs X-T10

    This one is the closest. It's Pro Negative Std with Color set to +2
  21. Hey guys, Noticing an odd problem. When doing time-lapses with the X-T10 I've noticed that the camera shuts off to conserve power given an interval of 1 minute or longer. I've been trying to focus the camera and use it in manual mode but when the camera shuts off in between shots the lens collapses and then doesn't refocus because it's in manual focus mode. Anyone know how to get around this? Also, still looking for a good time lapse software, if you have any recs. Andrew
  22. From the album: Andrew Newson Photography Courses

    My daughter dressed as a cat in the woods. Well why not!?

    © © Andrew Newson

  23. From the album: Andrew Newson Photography Courses

    View down on to Harrop Tarn in the Lake District, UK.

    © © Andrew Newson

  24. From the album: Andrew Newson Photography Courses

    Recently we ran a photography holiday to the Lake District in the UK. It was one of the most successful ones we have done to date with 12 people attending. We had some pretty wet weather but of course we braved the conditions and it actually made for some quite atmospheric images.

    © © Andrew Newson

  25. I noticed it turns the preview on when half pressing the shutter even though I set this setting off. Is this normal? I might be mistaken but I think firmware 1.0 keeps it off. I just recently bought an x-t10 switching from a d7000, still learning the features.
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