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jeremyclarke

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About jeremyclarke

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  1. Wow I never heard of that lens but it's a perfect example anyway! It's sublimely equivalent to Fuji's 60mm f/2.8 Macro, which also does extremely well in testing, but isn't a wonderful prime for non-macro because of it's slow aperture. For Fuji the 60mm is one of it's cheapest and least compelling primes, there to offer affordable access to a specific genre of photography, and I think the same is true of Canon. The problem for Canon is that the 60mm is also maybe it's best APS-C prime lens, whereas Fuji has many other options that are better in many different ways (not least of which the upcoming high-end macro prime that will surely replace the 60mm as Fuji's macro flagship). Finally I'll note that while Canon themselves suck at EF-S primes, other companies aren't wasting the opportunity. That Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 is a workhorse that challenges anything Canon OR Fuji have released for versatility and especially price. Would love to see Fuji or even Sigma releasing something like that for the X system.
  2. FWIW I'll add one more practical point that can get lost in the shuffle: An 85mm f/1.8 on a FF sensor may be the closest FF comparison to what you get from the 56mm f/1.2 on Fuji, but that doesn't mean the Fuji 56mm f/1.2 and Canon 50mm f/1.2 lenses shouldn't be compared at all. If you choose Canon but you want the size/cost benefits of their APS-C cameras (i.e. 7DII) then the FF lenses are your only choice for all but a couple of their cheapest primes. There's no way to get a small, cheap 35mm f/1.4 for Canon, you HAVE to buy the huge, expensive FF L lens even if it's going on your Rebel. This is because Canon treats their "crop sensor" lineup as a discount brand, rather than as a valid tradeoff of size/cost v. quality. Fuji on the other hand treats their APS-C cameras as top of the line, so their APS-C primes are smaller and lighter than what you'd have to carry to get the same effect on a Canon APS-C camera. The day Canon comes out with fast awesome primes in EF-S (crop sensor) or EF-M (their half-assed mirrorless format) this may change, but I doubt they'll ever come out with anything comparable to the 56mm f/1.2 or 16mm f/1.4 lenses designed specifically to take advantage of APS-C sensors.
  3. Fabulously pedantic response bro. Adds nothing that wasn't obvious to everyone, hope it made you feel smart at least.
  4. Yeah exactly! It's both useless and confusing in different ways For ISO the whole Q menu is overall a bad choice. It doesn't show you the "auto" parameters of auto-ISO when you switch so it's not helpful at all IMHO. Especially on the X-T10 the function button ISO menu is REALLY GOOD, letting you quickly scroll through the 3 auto-ISO slots and "see what's inside". Better than the other Fuji cameras and infinitely more useful than the Q menu version.
  5. So far he's the only one that can make it work, which is inherently suspicious. I'm not going to just believe him when so many other people have clearly found that it doesn't work in real life. My question about manual focus was to remove the inconsistent distraction of AF time. All the questions and tests we're doing are about isolating why it works for him but is impossible for almost everyone else. His answer showed that M v. AF wasn't the problem, and it can work and fail in both cases, so together we isolated the problem which is a good thing He's seems to have been the only person to have experimented with intentionally-slow shutter speeds, so I tried that and found that it had a major effect on the possibility+reliability of getting a single shot in CL mode. It's a bug because it almost always takes two shots, as everyone who tried it has learned, but in some specific, undocumented cases (slow shutter speed and/or delayed focus via. not locking focus) it takes only one shot. Features that work randomly are bugs if they annoy you, and this one annoys pretty much everyone who tries to get single shots out of CL mode. If you wanted it to always take two shots because that's what it does, you don't get it when the shutter is slow: Bug. If you wanted it to take one shot when you quickly push the button you don't get that because so often it is literally not possible to move fast enough: Bug. It should consistently do one thing or the other and it should be referenced in the manual. My trigger control is not the issue because the amount of time to get a single shot isn't consistent, it's essentially random and sometimes impossible. It's not the end of the world, and I understand where subtle issues like this come from, but it's still a bug. Pretty much all other camera brands have solved this, so Fuji looks silly and we're annoyed.
  6. Okay makes sense. I can do the same as long as the shutter is slower than 1/60. At 1/30 I can get single shots "consistently" whereby consistently I mean "by holding the camera funny and jerking my finger away which would give a blurry shot at 1/30". At 1/8 and everything manual I can actually get a consistent single shot, which is interesting and useless to know. So in summary: You cannot get a single shot in CL+AF-S mode when focus is locked (shutter half-pressed+green box), but it is possible in very specific scenarios where the shutter speed is slow and you are jamming the shutter button down. As far as I'm concerned this is now even more a bug than before I participated in the thread. It's so impractical to get a single shot in CL that it might as well not be there. A feature that only works when you ignore the intended functioning of the camera (half pressing shutter to confirm focus before fully depressing it) is a broken or non-functioning feature.
  7. I said "with manual focus". Maybe you had the camera on manual focus while testing, but you didn't mention it in your post, so IF you had mentioned it it would be new information. You didn't mention it, so I still don't know if anyone can get one shot in CL and manual focus.
  8. FWIW I just tried and I'm 90% sure that there's no way to INTENTIONALLY stop it from taking two shots in CL mode. With my X-T10 the ONLY way to get one shot in CL is when the camera lags for some reason, which is mostly random and thus completely uncontrollable. Specifically I can get one shot in AF-S when I tap the shutter all the way down without locking focus. In that case I hear the lens (35mm f/1.4) focusing, then one shot. If I first lock focus, then push the shutter I ALWAYS get two shots. If I set it to M focus I ALWAYS get two shots. Is there someone here who can get one shot in CL with manual focus? That's the real test IMHO. --- Separately +1 to 95mb/s cards. I had a 35mb/s card I thought was as fast as the camera, but at least with the X-T1 I rented (because the X-T10 hadn't been released yet) there was a significant difference in the write time (orange/green flashing light after a burst of shots) when I used the 95mb/s card. If the real problem is write time then it will make a difference. Not sure if it applies equally to the X-T10, which has a smaller buffer and worse i/o overall, but I'm sold for life now, no more cards that aren't at least 95mb/s and in the future I'll buy the fastest card my camera supports. If the real problem was having two shots to manage in LR when you only needed one, then you're SOL, get used to using the Drive dial and/or living with single-shot.
  9. Great work! Shows off how wondefully cinematic Fuji video can look when you have good light and interesting subjects. Unfortunately the moiré and rolling shutter is still very distracting as you point out. Whenever you pan the camera the rolling shutter is super visible. Interestingly a lot of viewers would probably think their browser or your export process was responsible for the jagged look, but at least to me it just screams "this is the problem with Fuji". My policy so far: Keep the camera on a tripod and avoid panning because shake/pan isn't just distracting movement, it's rolling-shutter+distracting-movement which is 10x as bad. Still though, lovely video and surely not ruined by the subtle failures of Fuji video. Normal people will be much more interested in the girls, the baseball and the beautiful weather than they are in the chain link fence
  10. I think what he meant was the "Saved Settings" system in the Q menu that lets you batch together a group of settings and quickly switch between them (it also works via the normal menus but is way more useful if you use the Q version). thowlights: I think you'll find few people with meaningful answers. That feature is generally considered not very useful because the "settings" it can control are almost exclusively JPG-only, like white balance, dynamic range and film simulation, none of which have any meaningful effect on RAW images. Most of the options people care about can't be controlled via the C-1-7 system that it's not worth using it for most serious shooters. Maybe someone will correct me on this, but it's come up before and a lot of people echoed my opinion. IMHO the best setting for C1-7 is COMPLETELY DISABLED. If you have one of the newer cameras you can edit your Q menu by holding down the Q button a long time then choosing what you want to show in each slot. If you just change the "C1" button to something else then it will never bother you again. Focus instead on getting all your most important settings into the Q menu and removing the ones that you never change so that it's as clear and useful as possible, then practice using the Q menu to quickly make your changes. All the options you can control with C1 can be controlled by the Q menu, but not the other way around. Bonus tip: You can set multiple spaces in the Q menu to the same setting, so if you have extra space, add copies of your most-used settings so that it takes even less clicks to get to them no matter where in the Q menu you start
  11. Interesting results! I've always found that in real life the smallest and biggest focus point sizes give the least reliable results because the small one fails so often and the large one misfocuses so often. You're analyzing some very precise focus here with a very convenient subject (i.e. tons of tiny vertical lines) so it makes sense the smallest point works the best and is a good test for your purposes. Personally I'd support Fuji making a smaller focus point. It could just be an even smaller box that's smaller than the cross. That said it may not be a meaningful change, I suspect the current smallest size reflects the actual limits of precision for the AF engine, in which case a smaller box would do nothing. Hope they're working on it either way! I need to remember to be more careful about AF box size and make it smaller when there's enough light+contrast for it to still work.
  12. I can be bothered, but I won't find an answer to this question: Why doesn't Fuji allow speeds slower than 30s in "T" mode?
  13. I for one am glad that LR supports the film simulations now so I don't have to worry about this nearly as much. Fuji RAW are way too grey for my liking and every shot requires tons of work, but as long as they're in the Astia calibration profile in LR they come out workable from the start with gentle colors and really nice tones compared to the true RAW. If it wasn't for that, I might be tempted to shoot JPG like others here. Either way Fuji needs to stop this terrible smoothing effect or at least give us an option to disable it. If it's hardwired into the CPU (plausible enough) then they need to hard-wire it in with a SWITCH so it can be disabled! As anyone who's used the Detail block in LR knows, any noise reduction that works is going to do horrible damage to your detail. It's a travesty that Fuji would force users to deal with such strong NR and not even give us a way to disable it, even if it's just in JPG.
  14. So you think any adapater that's 2.5mm male and 3.5mm female will work I guess, that's good news. I'll probably just go to the store for and make sure it works before I leave. The ones on Amazon are so cheap that the descriptions are kind of crappy. Yeah I noticed the same thing. The one WITH the smartphone adapter is cheaper on Amazon.ca right now so it seems like an easy choice. Recording with a smartphone is definitely something I'd like to have as a fallback option, since I could put the phone in someone's pocket and sync audio later for times when wiring to the camera is inconvenient. Thanks for the help. Any tips on procedure to make sure it's working or how to avoid common issues with a setup like this?
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