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Hi Fujilovers! I had an idea if anyone is interested… As you may know, the company Viltrox is producing AF adapters for M lenses and AF Speed Booster adapters for Sony APS-C. Wouldn't it be amazing if they made one for Fuji X mount, also lot's of mounts would be great (MD, M42, PK, OM, FD, Canon EF,…) like with their other adapters. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Viltrox-EF-E-Mount-Adapter-Auto-Focus-AF-for-Canon-EF-to-Sony-E-mount-APS-C-/321960438601?hash=item4af6566b49:g:daoAAOSwBLlVbQ~N Yes I am aware the AF speed is nowhere near Fuji's lenses, but the idea is somewhat promising. Wouldn't that be amazing? Having a reasonably cheap, ''high quality'' focal reducer, making your camera ''work'' like it's almost full frame in some aspects (depth of field) and gathering 1 extra stop of light and also using it for auto focusing your adapted MF lenses. For me at least, that would change the whole perspective on the ''adapting lenses'' thing, as the adapter is rather small and the benefits (1EV, sharpness, FF depth, lens character, BOKEH!!) are just too big to ignore. The X-Pro2 and newer ILC X-Mount cameras would benefit a lot from this, considering the AF is up to modern standards. I don't see why Viltrox couldn't make this possible. There's gonna be a lot of people buying the X-Pro2, X-T2,… and many of them have at least some old MF lenses. This would work with most vintage glass (Leica M mount excluded).

Hi there, First of all, many thanks for your great work. I really appreciate this forum. Two weeks ago my XF23mmF1.4 arrived and I was so happy to test it. I already own an XF35mmF1.4 and a XF16-55mmF2.8WR and I really would like to add this focal length to my lenses, since I always loved shooting at 23mm (35mm eq.) in the past. I was suddenly disappointed by the lens. Since the first shot it produced images that are blurred and in some way soft. Obviously, I know that I cannot expect the best at f/1.4, and I also know that the compare with the XF35mm is not fair. With all this background of knowledge, however, results are not possible given the cost and the buzz that surround this lens. I have attached to sample. The first one is shot both at f/2.8 on the XF23mm and on the XF16-55 at 23mm zoom level. As you may see with your eyes even the zoom lens is worst and at the maximum aperture it produce a better quality image without blur and softness. In the second example I just shooted at f2 on the XF23mm and at f2.8 on the XF50-140mm in a sunny day without any "critical condition". Even in this case, the XF23mm output is blurred without any sharp. I returned the lens to FUJIFILM asking for a replacement or a complete refund. I am absolutely disappointed by this experience. All comments are welcome.

I purchased my X-T2 in January and instantly fell in love. One of my favorite features was its use of buttons and dials along the camera for quickly changing settings rather than going through the menus. Along with the physical features of the camera I was also blown away by the auto focus Fujifilm was able to develop for this amazing camera. I use AF almost exclusively and with that I was using the Focus Lever (Focus Stick) quite often as well. After a few months with the X-T2 I noticed an issue with my Focus Stick, it would no longer go in the upward or up-diagonal directions. I kept using the camera for events and shoots I needed it for, working around the limitations I'd found and hoped that with the software updates to come my problem would be fixed. After downloading both updates it seems my issue is still present. I've searched a few times to see if anyone else has had this issue but haven't found an answer and instead was met with frustration. I'm hoping someone here can help me as Fujifilms website has also been of no help to me.

Hi, I’m having some trouble with getting the green focus square to show. I’ve checked the obvious things like ‘AF point display’ is on and I’m using ‘zone’ focus mode. I’ve tried both AF-C and AF-S. I’ve even tried resetting all shooting settings. I’d really like to see the green square to know exactly what the camera is focusing on. Does anyone have any suggestions? I’m using an X-T3 with the 16-55.

I use this camera for vlogging, and very rarely take still photos. I'm having issues with nighttime video and auto focus. The camera hunts for focus excessively particularly during fireworks displays and other nighttime settings (amusement parks, cruise decks, etc.). I have it set to continuous auto-focus. Pretty much about to give up on this camera. What are the recommended settings for this camera for video at night? Or do I need to use manual focus (or is that even possible for video)? Thank you!

Trying to use BBF on the X-T2 has been driving me crazy because the button AE-L and AF-L buttons are so small. After doing some research and playing around with the camera I have discovered there are two different ways of setting up BBF on the X-T2, with pro's and cons to both. For anyone interested here are the two ways, with the pros and cons (IMHO) to both. 1. Go to your Setup menu - Button/Dial Setting -Fn/AE-L/AF-L Button Setting, and assign either the AE-L or AF-L button to "AF-On." Use whichever button is the most natural fit for your thumb. Then in your Button/Dial settings go to "Shutter AF" and set it to "Off." This will set your camera up in traditional BBF where your BBF is permanently set to either the AE-L button or the AF-L button. The pros to this set-up are you can use BBF for your all of your AF modes including Zone and Wide Tracking. The con is you always have to use the AE-L or AF-L back button to focus, which is extremely tiny and can be difficult to press especially ifs you are coming from a DSLR (which I have.) 2. This second set-up is apparently the one that people have used on the X-T1 and might actually be preferable for me. In you menu go to AF/MF setting - Instant AF Setting, and set to AF-C or AF-S. whichever is your preference (traditional BBF would be AF-C), In your Button/Dial Setting ensure that "Shutter AF" is set to on, which is different from method 1. Now your camera will focus in all modes normally by using the Shutter release when in Single or continuos AF modes, however when you switch to manual focus, you are able to press the AF-L button to continuously AF or Single AF depending on which "Instant AF" setting you chose in the previous step. As a bonus, you can go into your Button/Dial Setting menu - An/AE-L/AF-L ButtonSetting and assign your AE-L to be your AF-L button and your AF-L to be your AE-L button. The benefit to reversing the buttons is that you can use the AE-L button as you Instant BBF button which for a lot of people will be a more comfortable place to rest your thumb. The benefit to this system is you instantly have access to BBF whenever you need it by simply switching over to manual focus, but when you don't need it you can switch back to Single or Continuous Focus and traditionally focus using the shutter button. Another benefit, is you can view the Manual focus, focus peaking screen and instantly manual focus if you want while in this mode. As I am not sure if I always want to use the extremely small AE-L button to focus, this might end up being my preferred BBF method after I have played with it for a while. The cons to this method are that you have to learn two focusing methods, using the shutter button and using BBF. Also, it seems you cannot use Zone or Wide Tracking focus in this method while in Manual Focus mode as the option to change focus methods while in Manual focus disappears. These options may appear confusing at first, but if you play with each one, I think you will find one that fits your individual shooting needs. Sometimes with this Fuji camera, I think we have too many choices and it can be a little overwhelming to learn until you settle on the one that works best for you.