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Has anyone considered the Fringer Contax 645 adapter? It looks pretty good w AF capabilities (but still during the development phase). Also is there a way to determine the "equivalent" focal length? The 645 being a bigger sensor, etc etc. Is this as simple as using the different equivalency formula floating around on the web? 0.64 from 645 to 35mm full frame, similar to the 0.79 from the GFX to 35mm full frame. (sorry I still think in 35mm) Dennis

hi everybody the feature of Focus Check is very useful on XT1, XT2 or X20 but i am wondering if we have Feature of "Focus Picking" like Sony camera on Fujifilm XT2 too?

I bought an X100T about 11 months ago and love the camera. I brought it with me on vacation this week and was showing it to my uncle and noticed the half-press of the shutter button was no longer working. No focus confirmation beep or green box. I've switched the the AF mode between AF-S, AF-C, and AF-M a few times. When on AF-M, the back focus continued to work so I don't think the issue is with the AF itself. I switched back to AF-S and it seems to focus prior to taking the photo with full shutter press, but not with the half press. I looked through the menus, but didn't see anything that would cause this. I did a complete reset of the camera and even updated the firmware. It now seems to work sporadically. Is this a malfunction of the shutter button? Has anyone else had this experience? I thought I'd check here prior to sending the camera in for repair.

I purchased my X-T2 in January and instantly fell in love. One of my favorite features was its use of buttons and dials along the camera for quickly changing settings rather than going through the menus. Along with the physical features of the camera I was also blown away by the auto focus Fujifilm was able to develop for this amazing camera. I use AF almost exclusively and with that I was using the Focus Lever (Focus Stick) quite often as well. After a few months with the X-T2 I noticed an issue with my Focus Stick, it would no longer go in the upward or up-diagonal directions. I kept using the camera for events and shoots I needed it for, working around the limitations I'd found and hoped that with the software updates to come my problem would be fixed. After downloading both updates it seems my issue is still present. I've searched a few times to see if anyone else has had this issue but haven't found an answer and instead was met with frustration. I'm hoping someone here can help me as Fujifilms website has also been of no help to me.

the XT-2 Autofocus seems to have severe issues with certain fine structures. Just spent many frustrating hours: I was actually testing lenses on what i thought makes a perfect object: fine twigs against the sky. Set it on a tripod, with the 10-24. The AF is very inaccurate or erratic, at 24 mm i get many blurry images. Same with the super sharp 35/f2, but smaller differences. (No problems with the 56, thats perfect). Also tested it on the X-T1, kind of the same issues. I might have it repaired/exchanged, and HOPE there's a fix. I'm wondering if maybe the AF System can not "see" fine structures, like fine branches. But it's high contrast against the sky (the rather poor AF on my old Canon 5D2 and 6D never had problems like this). That would mean serious problems with landscape photography...i mean, it's just a usual object. Nothing extreme or difficult for AF. Attached a 100% crop: image to the right is sharp, shot right after the blurry one. I got tons of that erratic sharpness. New firmware, all 135 AF points activated. Single point focus. Looking forward to your opinions/experiences...thanks!

Hi there, First of all, many thanks for your great work. I really appreciate this forum. Two weeks ago my XF23mmF1.4 arrived and I was so happy to test it. I already own an XF35mmF1.4 and a XF16-55mmF2.8WR and I really would like to add this focal length to my lenses, since I always loved shooting at 23mm (35mm eq.) in the past. I was suddenly disappointed by the lens. Since the first shot it produced images that are blurred and in some way soft. Obviously, I know that I cannot expect the best at f/1.4, and I also know that the compare with the XF35mm is not fair. With all this background of knowledge, however, results are not possible given the cost and the buzz that surround this lens. I have attached to sample. The first one is shot both at f/2.8 on the XF23mm and on the XF16-55 at 23mm zoom level. As you may see with your eyes even the zoom lens is worst and at the maximum aperture it produce a better quality image without blur and softness. In the second example I just shooted at f2 on the XF23mm and at f2.8 on the XF50-140mm in a sunny day without any "critical condition". Even in this case, the XF23mm output is blurred without any sharp. I returned the lens to FUJIFILM asking for a replacement or a complete refund. I am absolutely disappointed by this experience. All comments are welcome.

First Pictures taken with the Xt2 and the 100-400. The autofocus looks promising but I will need try the different modes.

Upgraded my X-Pro2 yesterday and since the XF35/2 was mounted, I did a few test-exposures of the carpet on the floor in my rather dimly lit office. (Not the most interesting subject though). The first I noticed was that the lens rather slowly attempted to find focus by moving to closest focus, then infinite and then back again to close before giving up. It used about 1.5 sec to not to find focus. Putting on a bit more light made it focus correctly in no time. Really snappy, and snappier than before. This is new behaviour. Before, it snapped into focus or gave up in less than 0.5 second under the same dim light. For me it seems like the new algorithm needs more light in order to find focus. Anyone else that have experienced the same? The AF-mode is single point (central, as small as possible), single shot. ;-D Hans

I purchase an Fuji X-T2 which I've been using to shoot soccer with a zoom XF 50-140/2,8 It's a big step up from the X-T1 in AF-C capability. I've got the AF-C setting set to second custom preset „Ignore obstacles&continue to track subject“, and it works fine. I have done ca. 600 photos and only 4 was total out of focus. The most of photos is razor sharp. Some photos is little bit soft, but without problem - it can be easy solved by post proces. Other setting: shutter 1/1000, aperture f4, ISO AUTO, phase detect area 3x3 (zone focusing), CH 5 shots/minute, boost ON, grip XT2-VPB. !! lens OIS was OFF !! becausse panning. Conclusion: I´m very satified with the AF-C and keeper rate. Any other settings I should be playing with?

Trying to use BBF on the X-T2 has been driving me crazy because the button AE-L and AF-L buttons are so small. After doing some research and playing around with the camera I have discovered there are two different ways of setting up BBF on the X-T2, with pro's and cons to both. For anyone interested here are the two ways, with the pros and cons (IMHO) to both. 1. Go to your Setup menu - Button/Dial Setting -Fn/AE-L/AF-L Button Setting, and assign either the AE-L or AF-L button to "AF-On." Use whichever button is the most natural fit for your thumb. Then in your Button/Dial settings go to "Shutter AF" and set it to "Off." This will set your camera up in traditional BBF where your BBF is permanently set to either the AE-L button or the AF-L button. The pros to this set-up are you can use BBF for your all of your AF modes including Zone and Wide Tracking. The con is you always have to use the AE-L or AF-L back button to focus, which is extremely tiny and can be difficult to press especially ifs you are coming from a DSLR (which I have.) 2. This second set-up is apparently the one that people have used on the X-T1 and might actually be preferable for me. In you menu go to AF/MF setting - Instant AF Setting, and set to AF-C or AF-S. whichever is your preference (traditional BBF would be AF-C), In your Button/Dial Setting ensure that "Shutter AF" is set to on, which is different from method 1. Now your camera will focus in all modes normally by using the Shutter release when in Single or continuos AF modes, however when you switch to manual focus, you are able to press the AF-L button to continuously AF or Single AF depending on which "Instant AF" setting you chose in the previous step. As a bonus, you can go into your Button/Dial Setting menu - An/AE-L/AF-L ButtonSetting and assign your AE-L to be your AF-L button and your AF-L to be your AE-L button. The benefit to reversing the buttons is that you can use the AE-L button as you Instant BBF button which for a lot of people will be a more comfortable place to rest your thumb. The benefit to this system is you instantly have access to BBF whenever you need it by simply switching over to manual focus, but when you don't need it you can switch back to Single or Continuous Focus and traditionally focus using the shutter button. Another benefit, is you can view the Manual focus, focus peaking screen and instantly manual focus if you want while in this mode. As I am not sure if I always want to use the extremely small AE-L button to focus, this might end up being my preferred BBF method after I have played with it for a while. The cons to this method are that you have to learn two focusing methods, using the shutter button and using BBF. Also, it seems you cannot use Zone or Wide Tracking focus in this method while in Manual Focus mode as the option to change focus methods while in Manual focus disappears. These options may appear confusing at first, but if you play with each one, I think you will find one that fits your individual shooting needs. Sometimes with this Fuji camera, I think we have too many choices and it can be a little overwhelming to learn until you settle on the one that works best for you.

Does anyone has any real life experience on how the setting "High Performance Mode" in the power management will have an actual impact on the speed (boot up time, processing, focussing, etc...)? And if yes, is the battery power affected significantly? I'm just curious why the setting is turned off per default by Fuji. Btw, thanks fujirumors! If I had not read your tips on how to make the best out of the new AF system, I would not even know that this setting exists - Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot (CL or CH) if MS+ES (electronic shutter) is enabled. – Turn Off face detection to enable PDAF – High Performance Mode ON

Is there a way to achieve continuous AF using the AF-L (AE-L button) focus on the XPro2? I know of the ghetto way to get back button focus to work (Manual focus mode, using the AF-L (AE-L) button to activate the AF system) but can't find a way to get continuous focus (or zone focus with multiple points) to work. If it's NOT possible, does anyone have any idea of the best way to suggest/request features to Fuji? I've tweeted at them, but never get a reply.

Dear All, I just bought my first Fuji camera, a X-Pro2 with a 35mm f.2 attached to it. Needless to say I'm new to this forum, and this is my first question. I will most likely be using the camera mainly with OVF. This said, I wonder if the Power Management mode setting (High Performance vs. Standard) would affect the AF speed in any way. Fuji doesn't make a distinction and says both settings provide 'Fast AF Speed'. I don't seem to notice any difference myself, but maybe the difference becomes clear in particular situations? Thanks for your thoughts/feedback! tdG.

Hi Fujilovers! I had an idea if anyone is interested… As you may know, the company Viltrox is producing AF adapters for M lenses and AF Speed Booster adapters for Sony APS-C. Wouldn't it be amazing if they made one for Fuji X mount, also lot's of mounts would be great (MD, M42, PK, OM, FD, Canon EF,…) like with their other adapters. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Viltrox-EF-E-Mount-Adapter-Auto-Focus-AF-for-Canon-EF-to-Sony-E-mount-APS-C-/321960438601?hash=item4af6566b49:g:daoAAOSwBLlVbQ~N Yes I am aware the AF speed is nowhere near Fuji's lenses, but the idea is somewhat promising. Wouldn't that be amazing? Having a reasonably cheap, ''high quality'' focal reducer, making your camera ''work'' like it's almost full frame in some aspects (depth of field) and gathering 1 extra stop of light and also using it for auto focusing your adapted MF lenses. For me at least, that would change the whole perspective on the ''adapting lenses'' thing, as the adapter is rather small and the benefits (1EV, sharpness, FF depth, lens character, BOKEH!!) are just too big to ignore. The X-Pro2 and newer ILC X-Mount cameras would benefit a lot from this, considering the AF is up to modern standards. I don't see why Viltrox couldn't make this possible. There's gonna be a lot of people buying the X-Pro2, X-T2,… and many of them have at least some old MF lenses. This would work with most vintage glass (Leica M mount excluded).