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Found 25 results

  1. Anyone having/had problems with factory standard settings, brand new x-t3 with kit 18-55 lens and focus hunting? I cant find anything online about this so assumed it was me...until I showed Fuji. Lens fully zoomed in on a parking lot, no moving cars, or trees, shot in daylight, plenty to focus on (IE not a white wall), using factory set focus settings straight after a reset of camera, OIS on or off made no difference, ISO auto, shutter @ 1/60, aperture manual, 4k30, shot handheld, AF-C, UV filter on lens, focus point was central in frame (nothing moving) and about 20 meters away and nothing in between camera lens and focus point (trees). To try and find out what was causing the problem I set the aperture to f20 = approx 2 second hunting frequency (from completely blurry to sharp, IE not a small hunt, its like it moves from extreme to extreme). As I reduce the aperture towards f16, frequency increases to say 0.5 seconds and then at f10 its not possible to see on the camera screen that there is hunting. My test seems to show its aperture & zoom related, regardless, I cant accept that this is ok. Above video in question was shot at the Fuji HO in South Africa to demonstrate the problem to Fuji so I don't have the video at the moment because I sent the camera in due to this hunting problem. They still don't know what the problem might be so I thought I would reach out and see if anyone can reproduce my problem so I can help Fuji help me solve my problem. I have had a consistent problem with focus on the camera with a hit rate of probably 60%, video & photo. Even when the camera locks focus in AF-S mode, stationary scene, eye focus mode on and face mode on, photo mode, the camera will miss the shot and focus on the rear of the head region while it tells me its focused on the eye when clicking the rear dial in to show the focus point. Any insight would be appreciate!
  2. Hello all, new member here . Last Saturday i went to do some astrophotos with my xt20 and my new 56 1.2. I would like to know if someone else have try to do some AP with this lens becouse i run in some issues with the focus. My idea was to use the intervalometer to take multiple shoots to stack the photos in post (typical for AP) so i tried to use manual focus but the focus by wire is not so trustworthy in this situations...it jumped a lot between small stars (close to focus) and big ones (far from it). In the end set to manual, back button focus and that seemed to work for bright stars...the problem was that after the first pic, all the others from the set were out of focus! even if the focus was set to manual it seemed to move it a bit, which for stars and 1.2 is terrible!! does anyone run to the same issue?? or know what would be the best strategy to do AP with this lens?? I have also the roki 85 1.4 and comparing pics (the ones in focus) im really happy with the results of the 56...but focusing the 85 it way easier!! If anyone can help me would be helpful!!! sorry about my english! Cheers from Argentina!
  3. Hello everyone, First post on this forum so let me introduce myself : Nicolas, fuji x100 user when this camera was released, sold it and regret it, fuji x100f user for a month. I would like to report an odd behavior which is supposed to be fixed in the latest firmware as per Fuji detailed report here https://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/x/x100f/history.html 0/ my fuji X100F is running the latest firmware (2.11) 1/ In manual focus mode: 2/ Whether: I use the AEL/AFL button to acquire focus Or use the front ring to manually focus (the area in focus is highlighted with the focus peak option so I know precisely what is in focus) 3/ AND focusing at short distance (less than 50 cm) 4/ AND using any aperture smaller than f/2.0 (the smallest the aperture, the biggest lens moves: see point 5/ below) 5/ When I press the shutter button, the lens slightly moves (obvious move) before the picture is acquired, thus ruining what is in focus. I have repeated the same process in AF/S and everything works fine. Anyone experienced this behavior? Do you know if the fuji website has a link to submit incident request? Thanks for reading ! Nicolas
  4. My X-T2 doesn´t switch to release priority anymore. It is stuck in focus priority even though release priority is selected. The latest firmware is installed (also on the lens(es)) It happens in all focus modes and with different lenses. I remember that it worked once to switch between the two modes. Unfortunately I only now realized that it doesn´t switch anymore thus I cannot determine if a FW update or whatever created this problem... Anyone else with the same problem? I only find threads on the internet without any answers. I also tried to get an answer from Fujifilm support, but they haven´t replied.
  5. I recently reacquired the Fuji 56f1.2. It's a fantastic lens and I should never have sold it. However, my new copy of the 56 occasionally makes a humming sound that persists after acquiring focus in AF-S mode. I don't recall my old 56 ever doing this on my X-T2 so now I'm slightly concerned. For the rest there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it. At about one in a 20 shots, especially at minimum range (though I've also had it happen at infinity), the auto-focus motor keeps humming after acquiring focus. Sometimes it stops after a few seconds, but I've also had occasions where it wouldn't stop until I'd press the focus button again or switch off the camera. It happens in AF-S mode. My question is: do other people with the 56 experience this occasional after-focus hum as well, or could it be that I got a bad copy? And my second question is; could it possibly damage or shorten the lifespan of the lens when the autofocus motor keeps running after acquiring focus? I would hate to have the lens work for two years and then break just after the warranty has expired. And my last question: would you keep it and try your luck, or would you return it to the shop and exchange it for another copy? Edit: Problem solved, see my post below.
  6. Hello. I am new here and was pretty new with my camera. Unfortunately on recent trip to france it was little drowned in river. It start to work after 2 days, but i have some problems: - Focus doesn't work, after pressing shutter button in halfway it should start to interpret picture, but this is doesn't happens. No focus at all - Battery die when camera turned off. After turning off camera it still sinking battery and if i left it for one night battery gonna die. So question, which i have: - Is it any way to turn focus in settings? May be it some programm error? (Tryed reset already) - Is there any way to repair camera or should i start to think about buying new one? May be someone have been in same situation? Thanks
  7. Hi all, I’m new to the forum. I’ve been using my x-t20 for a year now and I am really happy about its capabilities! There is just one little thing that totally annoys me every single time I use this camera. While using the EVF, my nose moves around the focus point, so damn annoying! I can’t find a way to change this, because I rather use the back buttons to move it around. Please please help me out on this one? Looking forward to your replies!
  8. Hello Everyone, I’m trying to use the FujiFilm phone app: CAM REMOTE with my X100F and while it works well for taking pictures, I am having difficulty with using it for video, which I would really like to do. While I can do a single focus, when taking pictures, by tapping the screen where I would like to focus, then taking the picture, this does not work in the video mode. In video mode, it seems the only option is for a continuous focus mode where it is always searching for focus — seems like it is looking for movement and focusing on that. Is there are a way to change it so that I can tap on my phone screen and set a single focus point and NOT have it continuously searching for focus (it makes quite a bit of noise). Any other apps (for iPhone or Mac) or advice on recording video (being able to control focus and start a video) remotely using the x100f, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone!
  9. the XT-2 Autofocus seems to have severe issues with certain fine structures. Just spent many frustrating hours: I was actually testing lenses on what i thought makes a perfect object: fine twigs against the sky. Set it on a tripod, with the 10-24. The AF is very inaccurate or erratic, at 24 mm i get many blurry images. Same with the super sharp 35/f2, but smaller differences. (No problems with the 56, thats perfect). Also tested it on the X-T1, kind of the same issues. I might have it repaired/exchanged, and HOPE there's a fix. I'm wondering if maybe the AF System can not "see" fine structures, like fine branches. But it's high contrast against the sky (the rather poor AF on my old Canon 5D2 and 6D never had problems like this). That would mean serious problems with landscape photography...i mean, it's just a usual object. Nothing extreme or difficult for AF. Attached a 100% crop: image to the right is sharp, shot right after the blurry one. I got tons of that erratic sharpness. New firmware, all 135 AF points activated. Single point focus. Looking forward to your opinions/experiences...thanks!
  10. Hi, guys! Just bought the camera. Love it! Relatively new to digital photography - lots of things to learn. I need to shoot the sculpture I created. Time sensitive. Can't figure out how to make all in focus shot. Object is flat disk with 1m/3ft diameter. Tried different setting, but it didn't work out(((((. Please, advice!!! Greatly appreciate!!! Kai
  11. I purchased my X-T2 in January and instantly fell in love. One of my favorite features was its use of buttons and dials along the camera for quickly changing settings rather than going through the menus. Along with the physical features of the camera I was also blown away by the auto focus Fujifilm was able to develop for this amazing camera. I use AF almost exclusively and with that I was using the Focus Lever (Focus Stick) quite often as well. After a few months with the X-T2 I noticed an issue with my Focus Stick, it would no longer go in the upward or up-diagonal directions. I kept using the camera for events and shoots I needed it for, working around the limitations I'd found and hoped that with the software updates to come my problem would be fixed. After downloading both updates it seems my issue is still present. I've searched a few times to see if anyone else has had this issue but haven't found an answer and instead was met with frustration. I'm hoping someone here can help me as Fujifilms website has also been of no help to me.
  12. Coming from the Ricoh world where zone focusing is completely another story thanks to the snap mode, I had to dig into the manual and all the options of the X100F in order to become friend with it. I wanted to share ! https://blog.laurencebichon.com/zone-focus-with-the-fuji-x100f/ Laurence
  13. Hi all, Have a problem with my X100T, the camera is 16 months old. The ability to pre-focus by depressing the shutter half way and get a green square in the viewfinder / lcd has vanished, no matter what focus setting I change. User error or time to go off for repair??
  14. THIS IS A COPY OF AN EMAIL I HAVE SENT TO FUJI. IF ANY OF YOU HAVE ANY IDEAS, I'D LOVE TO HEAR THEM! I purchased a new XT10 (s/n 67L03084) along with 2 kit lenses in November of this year. The 16-50 lens s/n is 62H09098. The s/n of the 50-230 lens is 62H00965. I have also booked a holiday to the Arctic Circle with the sole intention of shooting the Northern Lights. Last night was clear so I took the camera out to try some star pics to see how it performed. I know that autofocus is unlikely to work under such conditions, so I set the camera to manual focus and set it at the extreme end of its scale, i.e. infinity. The resultant pictures were all blurred. I then experimented and found that infinity is in focus when the camera suggests there’s still some way to go. I have repeated this experiment during daylight and it seems the 16-50 kit lens doesn’t focus on infinity when it’s set to infinity. When I am photographing the Northern Lights, the temperature will be in the region of minus 20 degrees and it is extremely unlikely that I will be able to set the focus in such conditions using trial and error (actually, having spent a fair amount of money on said camera, why should I have to use trial and error?). Furthermore, if it’s just stars, there will be insufficient light for me to manually focus anyway, so I could be out in the freezing cold taking blurred pictures and I’ll only find that out when I upload them to a computer once inside the hotel. So, my questions are: 1. Am I doing something wrong? 2. If not, what is the next step? I need the camera to take pictures of the Northern Lights and it looks like it may not be up to the job. Attached are four files; 2 taken with the focus set on infinity (both blurred) and the other 2 with me manually focussing and ignoring infinity.
  15. Has anyone else noticed trouble focusing on people in the foreground since the latest firmware updates? I noticed the camera really seems to prioritise something in the background over the foreground. Sure you can say switch to single point focusing (which I do) but I noticed the camera was much better at finding something in the foreground before the updates. ​Using Xpro2 with 16mm 1.4 and 35mm 2.0
  16. Hi there, First of all, many thanks for your great work. I really appreciate this forum. Two weeks ago my XF23mmF1.4 arrived and I was so happy to test it. I already own an XF35mmF1.4 and a XF16-55mmF2.8WR and I really would like to add this focal length to my lenses, since I always loved shooting at 23mm (35mm eq.) in the past. I was suddenly disappointed by the lens. Since the first shot it produced images that are blurred and in some way soft. Obviously, I know that I cannot expect the best at f/1.4, and I also know that the compare with the XF35mm is not fair. With all this background of knowledge, however, results are not possible given the cost and the buzz that surround this lens. I have attached to sample. The first one is shot both at f/2.8 on the XF23mm and on the XF16-55 at 23mm zoom level. As you may see with your eyes even the zoom lens is worst and at the maximum aperture it produce a better quality image without blur and softness. In the second example I just shooted at f2 on the XF23mm and at f2.8 on the XF50-140mm in a sunny day without any "critical condition". Even in this case, the XF23mm output is blurred without any sharp. I returned the lens to FUJIFILM asking for a replacement or a complete refund. I am absolutely disappointed by this experience. All comments are welcome.
  17. hi everyone i own a x-e2 i have a big problem with focus peaking in manual focus (with old lenses and adapter ring) focus peak with my vintage lenses worked fine before but since the firmware update from 2.00=>4.01, i have not the function working any more after the update of firmware i obviously reset all the menu and settings but it's still impossible to view the peak in manual focusing any idea? thanx!
  18. Hi Fujilovers! I had an idea if anyone is interested… As you may know, the company Viltrox is producing AF adapters for M lenses and AF Speed Booster adapters for Sony APS-C. Wouldn't it be amazing if they made one for Fuji X mount, also lot's of mounts would be great (MD, M42, PK, OM, FD, Canon EF,…) like with their other adapters. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Viltrox-EF-E-Mount-Adapter-Auto-Focus-AF-for-Canon-EF-to-Sony-E-mount-APS-C-/321960438601?hash=item4af6566b49:g:daoAAOSwBLlVbQ~N Yes I am aware the AF speed is nowhere near Fuji's lenses, but the idea is somewhat promising. Wouldn't that be amazing? Having a reasonably cheap, ''high quality'' focal reducer, making your camera ''work'' like it's almost full frame in some aspects (depth of field) and gathering 1 extra stop of light and also using it for auto focusing your adapted MF lenses. For me at least, that would change the whole perspective on the ''adapting lenses'' thing, as the adapter is rather small and the benefits (1EV, sharpness, FF depth, lens character, BOKEH!!) are just too big to ignore. The X-Pro2 and newer ILC X-Mount cameras would benefit a lot from this, considering the AF is up to modern standards. I don't see why Viltrox couldn't make this possible. There's gonna be a lot of people buying the X-Pro2, X-T2,… and many of them have at least some old MF lenses. This would work with most vintage glass (Leica M mount excluded).
  19. I will buy the X-Pro2 soon and I intend to use it with Lens Turbo II and Minolta MD lenses as I do with my X-Pro1 now. ​I'm wondering how well is the Color digital split image manual focus assist mode implemented in using manual legacy glass? Has anyone tried it? I owned an X100T and used the ERF quite often, actually most of the time, but did not like the focus by wire implementation. The fact that sometimes I could not distinguish if the focus was tack sharp or a bit off, made me use the EVF more than I actually wanted to. The split image option was sometimes unreliable, especially if there were complex patterns included in the scene as the focusing screen was B&W. ​I'm expecting really good performance out of manual focusing aids in the X-Pro2, because it will actually be the only method used for focusing the Minoltas. Also... Is the split focusing aid also kind of ''pixelated'' (not high resolution) as it was the case with the X100T? ​Thanks for your replies guys! ​Have a good one!
  20. Hi all, On the XT1, is the in camera focus distance scale more accurate than the one etched on the lens or vice versa? I've been meaning to test it for a while now but never got around to it. Hopefully someone on here has had a bit of a play. I've been leaning towards trusting the in-camera distance scale more though. But I often wonder how accurate it is. Thanks!
  21. Hi I'm using Fuji X-T1 GS for a while and mostly are on landscape photographs. Normally I start with auto focus to focus the subject/distance I want on tripod and after that I just keep the focal distance by changing focus mode to M (at front pedal). The thing is if I do operate other things on my camera such as checking photo from play menu after a few photos taken or even turn off camera while focus mode still on M, after turn on camera again or get back to normal shooting mode after using other menus, focal distance seems to be changed and I need to refocus every times. My Pre-AF is off. and I think it happens in most of the lenses I have (I mostly use 10-24 f/4, 16-55 f/2.8 and 50-140 f/2.8 for landscape shooting but sometimes prime lenses as well) How do I lock this focal distance value every time till I change it by myself manually or with re-auto focus? Or any setting that I missed it.? Thank you very much
  22. Hi I have just bought a second but near mint x-e1 which I have paired with vintage lens. I am using a canon fd 50mm, and a Takumar 55mm and have found the images to be soft. I have also used a 35mm Fujian and the images are sharper. I think I am using the camera wrong. I have updated to the latest firmware and can see the focus peaking. In the evf the image is sharp but when I half press the shutter release the image seems to get softer and I refocus, I also use the ring button to magnify the subject and refocus but I am getting soft images. Is this the property of the lens I have? or the as I suspect the way I am using the x-system. Your guidance would be much appreciated. Many thanks.
  23. Hello everyone, I just got my XT1 graphite and I'm psyched. I wanted to know how to lock the focus without refocusing? on the canon there was an option to lock the refocus. for exmaple you press on the half shutter and then you press on the lock button, and now you can shoot focus locked, up until i release the button. I wanted to see if there as a simular way to first press the AF-L and make it act as a lock and not FOCUS + lock. the only options I found on the XT1 was its to make it AFL on/off or AFL press/release. so how can i get rid of the AF and just keep L? I hope I'm not making it too confusing. Also can someone recommend wireless transmitter for external flash. I used the vello but I keep having misess with the flash syncing.
  24. Using firmware 4.10 and1.01 - in the shooting menu and with focus set to 'zone' - face detection 'on' - eye detection af is lit 'OFF' and I cannot change it to 'on'. Anybody know the reason? Rogleale
  25. Hello everyone, I got myself a Fujifilm X-T10 a couple of days ago and I just want to know if there is any way to reset the AF point with a button to the middle of the frame. I know this function is there on the Canon EOS 5D III, where you just press the joystick in to reset the AF to the middle point. I am not sure about it but I had an X-E1 some time ago for a few weeks and I think I could reset the AF point bi pressing the control wheel on the back of the camera. Now, when I press the wheel on the back of the X-T10 it will reset the box size but not move the point to the middle. I'd like to have a quick way to reset my AF point so I know when I put the camera to my eye that there is my AF point waiting for me in the middle if I need to grab a quick shot. Right now if I use it somwhere near the corners I need to look for my AF point and sometimes it is just hard to find or in the worst location imaginable... fiddleing with the buttons to move it somwhere usable for my subject more often than not results in a missed shot. I just really got used to this function on the Canon 5D and I don't want to miss it on the Fuji, especially when there is some kind of half-reset with the press of the back wheel. Please tell me that I just overlooked some menu point where you can set the camera up like this. Please. I'm already bummed that the wheel direction to change things like ISO cannot be inverted...
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