Adam Woodhouse

There is a thread in the RAW converters forum and a recent thread in the X-Pro1/X-Pro2 forum on this. Take a look at those.

Great info. Thanks for making us aware of it. When you point ON1 Raw to the folder of Fuji RAW files, is it possible to assign colour profiles? Currently in LR, I import my RAW file folder which has XT1 and XT2 (compressed) RAF files. Once they are imported I apply (in batch) a preset to the XT1 files and a different present to the XT2 files. In my preset I have a Fuji colour profile. Can I subset the XT1 files and apply a preset and then subset the XT2 files and apply another preset? Thanks!

At the moment (Feb 9, 2017) it looks like they now support compressed RAF files. I watched the above to get an idea of what the product is and can do. I was quite impressed. It looks like it is a product that blends Lightroom and Photoshop. I'm not sure if it has the advanced catalog/indexing features of Lightroom for those that use it to manage their photo library, but I don't use that feature in Lighroom so I didn't read up on it. But since a major bug fix and feature release is slated for today (or around today), I think I'll download the 30 day trial and push my latest wedding shoot through it to see how it does. I read a review on a website that worked with this new release (I think they were beta testers) and the compressed RAF file and sharpening/detail concerns that Lightroom users have (like me) were pretty much put to rest with comparisons to Lightroom and Iridient for fine details in RAF files. This is the beta review I'm referring to -> http://joelwolfson.com/on1-photo-raw-2017-2-now-great-fuji-raw-processor/ Got the link from this forum actually -> http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/4742-advanced-look-on1-photo-raw-20172-now-a-real-fuji-raw-contender/

I'd like to know this as well !!

I think if you bump your exposure when shooting by 1/2 a stop, the images won't be as saturated and the blacks won't be crushed. I have shot a bit of kids hockey, kids box lacrosse and high school gym for volleyball/basketball and in all cases have found the XT1 and XT2 metering (as any camera would) says I'm overexposing by almost 1 stop. I shoot in manual since the lighting isn't changing. But with all the rink white boards and white ice or gyms white walls, naturally the camera wants to underexpose the bright scene. But I don't get as much black crush as you but my images are definitely exposed by approx 1/2 a stop more than your samples. Just my 2 cents.

Also the Fuji x500 is weather resistant. Very handy when working a paid gig and you still have to shoot even if it starts to very lightly rain or snow. Not sure if the other flashes have that perk.

I usually shoot in manual exposure and first set my exposure while the camera is in still photo mode. Once the histogram shows me what I want and a test shot or two, I switch to video mode.

When you get up to the focal lengths this lens gives, regardless of camera model ... it takes lots of practice. For $75/CAD I picked up a 1980's 200-500/5.6 manual focus Tamron (the thing looks like a bazooka) and use a Nikon/Fuji adapter and I learned right away that even on a tripod, it takes lots of practice to get anything that looks any good due to DOF and camera shake.

Are you working with the JPG's out of camera? If so, play around with the shadows setting in camera for the different film modes. I personally find the darks/shadows in provia and astia fine when left at 0, but I always have the highlights set to +1 because I like the little extra pop it gives. Some prefer to leave highlights at -2 all the time and just adjust to their liking in software as they edit. Others, set the shadows to -2 and then in post, adjust to a little darker if needed. I shoot weddings with XT1 and XT2 at the same time, all day. So I get a constant reminder of the differences in how the bodies perform and when I'm editing in Lightroom (editing RAF files). I have my own custom preset that I apply to the RAF files as I import. One is for XT2 and one is for XT1. I have founds the results to be pretty close. There are subtle differences, but they are different cameras with different sensors and different processors, so naturally there will be a bit of a difference. But not enough for me to notice or be bothered. For both my XT1 and XT2, when I import to Lightroom I have shadows set to +10 and film mode Astia. I shoot mostly people and outdoors, so that works well. I find a bit of a "black crush" to the darks from both cameas and this small bump helps a little. Compared to my old Nikon gear, I find the JPG's out of camera on the Fuji are more contrasty and thus have a bit more punch. They are like a JPG out of my Nikon but the Nikon JPG (in Lightroom) would need to bump the contrast and blacks to get a similar looking image. For an image where I want lots of colour pop, I'll change film mode in Lightroom to Velvia but it isn't uncommon for me to then give a bit more of a + bump to the shadows again. Oh ... I should comment that at first I struggled with the XT2 and differences in exposure results compared to XT1. I thought I had both set to same exposure mode as it was the same icon on the metering dial. Someone on this forum pointed out that I did not have the two cameras set to the same metering mode! I looked in the XT2 manual and saw they changed what the icons represent. So I changed the XT2 to a different metering icon that was then the same setting as the XT1 and I have found over the months the auto-exposure on the two to be very close. That helped me greatly.

In answer to the original posters question, I believe it is a 'YES'. I use my Nikon config'd Yongnuo flashes and trigger from my Nikon days on my XT1 and XT2 without any problems.

I had a Nikon SB800 die on me. It happens. That is why I ensure when I go to a paid gig that I have a full redundant setup. Going from XT2 to XT1 is quite noticable (as I own both and shoot with both regularly) ... but we got to do what we got to do!

I have found that wide angle lenses seem to produce better star bursts than telephoto lenses. But that's just been my experience with the lenses I've owned. That being said, I usually go with a wide angle (something less than 24mm full frame equivalent) and stop the aperture down (very important) to approx F16.

I've always wanted to ... but alas ... don't know anyone with Leica glass.

Could someone elaborate how this new X-Transformer tool is used in your existing Lightroom/Capture One workflow? I looked at the Iridient website but found the info/tips quite vague. Thanks

Yup, same issue on mine. I thought something was wrong when I first got the lens because it felt like I was cross-threading it when I put it on. But over time, it has gotten a bit better.

I can answer a few of these questions, but I'm sure a few others will chime in to help out and correct me if I'm wrong. 1) In the menu you can set noise reduction on long exposures Yes/No. If set to No, you can take next pic immediately after the current pic is done. If set to Yes, I think if exposure is longer than 10 seconds the camera will take the same length of time as the exposure to apply NR. So a 30 second exposure results in camera locked for another 30 seconds to apply noise reduction (so that shot would lock the camera for 60 seconds). I have long exposure NR turned off since I work with the RAW files. 2) I think #2 and #4 are some-what related. The camera will not give a preview of what the long exposure will look like before you take it (kind of answers #3 as well). But you can set the camera/EVF to either give you what the exposure will look like when shooting in 100% manual (called manual exposure preview) or let the EVF auto expose for you regardless of camera settings. This relates to #4 question. In #4 ... when shooting in manual in that scenario you would need to have the camera EVF set to auto exposure (manual exposure preview turned off) so that it makes the scene/EVF bright and you can use the EVF. That would disconnect the EVF from the cameras exposure settings. If your example of Q. #4 .... having the camera set to manual exposure preview ... the EVF would be black. 3) No, it won't do that. You can't watch on the LCD/EVF the image as its being exposed in real time during a long exposure. 4) I think my answer to #2 answers this. It sounds like the camera was set to "manual exposure preview" for the EVF setting ... so it would be very dark in that case. Changing the EVF to auto-exposure preview ( I think it just turns off the manual exposure preview setting) , it would make the EVF bright regardless of manual exposure camera settings. 5) I don't know but would hazard a guess the cameras could sustain a little bit of moisture, but they are not rated or sold as 'weather resistant' as far as I know.

If it were me, and just for hobby, I'd get the 10-24 because I find it to be quite a versatile lens. Excellent for ultra wide angle landscape and architecture stuff ... great IS ... and zoom to 24mm to get that coveted 35mm full frame equivalent for casual street type photography. I use and enjoy that lens much more than the 16/1.4. The 16/1.4 only comes out (for me) when I'm doing paid gigs and I require F1.4.

Certainly sounds odd. But as mentioned above, memory cards can have a large impact on performance. I use 90mbit/sec cards and have found the performance to be very good. Zero lag in shooting burst, 4K and playback. I'd recommend updating the firmware if it is out-of-date. Also, format the memory cards in the camera, not on a computer. Let us know if these suggestions help.

Get both ... I did! Got the 10-24 first, then 12 months later I got the 16. I use them at totally different times, so having both is ideal I use the 10-24 when outside in adequate light or when I want (or need) hand held slow shutter as the IS is quite good. I can shoot @ 1/4 second easily with that lens and get a nice sharp image. I use the 16 when I go indoors and set the aperture to 1.4 and don't touch it. That is where that lens shines.

Ya, it is easy to hit that little button beside the EVF and change the LCD/EVF screen on/off features.

I own both XT1 and XT2 ... since you comment on weather sealing, then yes ... XT2 (as it appears to me) has better weather sealing. The memory card door and mic/hdmi door are crap on the XT1, but on the XT2 they are much better, and thus better sealed.

I think this sums it up nicely. http://mirrorlesscomparison.com/preview/fuji-xt2-and-xt20/

It would definitely be bigger, just compare any F4 to F2.8 lenses that are the same focal length. But that being said ... if they released a 2.8 version and did not put IS in the lens ... it may not be too much larger than the current which has IS.

I recall when I got the Nikon D300s and read its higher ISO results were suppose to be better (best at the time for Nikon APS-C cameras). I tested high ISO outside in fair lighting (resulted in high shutter speed) and sure enough I thought 'wow, really good'. Then I used it at my next wedding job and discovered that the results of the same higher ISO in a dark environment showed drastic different results. It taught me that it is important to get exposure correct at the time of shooting in low light, darker scenes because any post edit to the high ISO file showed serious degradation. Also showed me that dark scenes versus bright scenes (at the same high ISO ... which at that time was 3200) produced noticeably different results in the pixel quality of the image.

@ Hermelin That pic is too cute.