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Adam Woodhouse

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Everything posted by Adam Woodhouse

  1. Thank you for the replies. I know the difference between continuous and shooting only modes. I feel the little description on the LCD for continuous mode doesn't help and is confusing. But having read manuals, it's pretty straight forward. So ... it appears that if the lens has a OIS on/off switch, we can go with just IBIS if we want (and in the menu turn off IBIS when on a tripod). But if the lens doesn't have a switch then the lens OIS is on if the body IBIS is on and off if the body IBIS is off.
  2. This is why I have always used my iPhone for pano's and been repeated impressed with the results.
  3. Hi. Recently got the combo XT4 and 16-80/4 lens and was really surprised to see no OIS on/off switch like my 10-24/4 lens. I see in the menu an option for IS on/off ... I'm assuming that is for just the sensor? Is there no way to turn the lens IOS off but have just the sensor on or is this setup that when the menu says "on" both lens and sensor are on ... and when the menu says "off" both the lens and sensor are off? Thanks!
  4. Oh, OK. Thanks. I thought that either Fuji would have them for download or Skylum would have had their own version for download. But if I have to find them through some LUT provider, then the search begins ....
  5. I just purchased Luminar 2018 and looking forward to the Dec 2018 release of their cataloging tool. When I open a Fuji XT2 raw file, under LUT's there are no Fuji profiles. I contacted their support and they said 'you have to load LUTs to see them in the list'. Fair enough. Problem is when I go to Skylums website there are no Fuji LUT's to download on their LUT's download page. I thought the offered Fuji colour profiles? Maybe I am confusing techniques and terminology? Where would I get the proper Fuji LUT's if that is what I am to use? Fuji website only has one LUT and that is for F-Log video. Thanks!
  6. Great group of images. The B&W works well. Like any grouping of images, some are really strong and some aren't. That would be an interesting subject to photograph.
  7. I also purchased a used X-Pro1 over a year back. I already have 2 XT2's that I've used pretty heavy for wedding work and wanted to give this style of camera a try. I don't like that the focus peek assist for adapted lenses is so very weak compared to XT2. I mostly wanted it for adapted lenses but the focus peak colour highlight is pretty crappy on the X-Pro1. And when I use Fuji glass the auto focus performance is quite poor. But it is to be expected since it is an old gen camera. I mostly expected to use adapted glass anyways. You can't get a feel for current Fuji equipment when using the old X-Pro1. If you enjoy the Pro1 and want to try something more modern with greatly improved performance, the Pro2 would be a substantial upgrade. But for just playing around (like myself) the Pro1 may give you years of great results.
  8. I had a Nikon D700 fail due to power board/power connector issue (so they say). It was out of warranty as well and cost approx the same. Had many more actuation's that yours, but actuation's aren't really related to a motherboard issue. Of course it failed at the start of a wedding gig I was doing. Had a Nikon D610 curtain blow out of the track and get jammed. It was again ... out of warranty and no where near the actuation count the shutter mechanism was rated for. That was around the same cost to repair. Of course it failed at the start of a wedding gig as well. Needless to say I don't own any Nikon gear anymore.
  9. If not wanting to go with custom white balance .... this may help ... I usually shoot portraits in Astia film sim. I've used that mode for years shooting weddings and found it to be great. This is assuming the lighting in the environment you are shooting isn't wacky (i.e in blue shade or under yellow/green florescent lighting in a community centre, etc).
  10. Some very good feedback on this thread. I use to shoot with D200 and D700, then later with D610 and D3s. The D700 was an excellent camera body, as was the D200. They were true work horses. If you reviewed one of my shared galleries, you won't be able to tell which of the different Nikon or Fuji cameras I used. http://adamwoodhouse.info/kawartha-gallery/ I mostly shoot raw because I like to have the greater latitude to push and pull the image in post. For my own casual, family stuff I usually shoot JPG to keep it quick and simple, but other work is raw. I found I couldn't recover as much of the highlights on the Fuji as I could on the full frame Nikon, but I could recover a bit more out of the shadows on the Fuji. But they are small differences ... maybe 1/2 a stop on the highlights and 1/2 a stop on the shadows. Fuji is the only system you can get pro level, weather sealed APS-C lenses that offer the same focal length as full frame. That is a perk overlooked by many people. You get the same approx weight and size savings owning a Nikon APS-C kit, but you don't get 24mm and 50mm and 85mm fast weather sealed (or at least pro build) primes on any other APS-C kit. The only thing I can share that I've read about and experienced a couple of times on the Fuji system is the choice of RAW editing software you choose can effect your results. For a long time pixel peepers have complained that Lightrooms rendering of the Fuji RAW files can caused problems in green foliage. The term is 'worm effect'. Many will say that if you do use Lightroom that the recent releases have improved that processing/sharpening artifact quite a bit ... others will argue it's still there. It is very subjective and only happens to certain images. This is a Lightroom thing, not a Fuji RAW file thing. Those that edit their RAW file in other products don't seem to have that issue. Just a FYI. The XT3 is an excellent, 2018 camera. It is in a position to win APS-C camera of the year. As long as you use good glass, you will be pleased with your investment. Also ... with this platform you can adapt vintage lenses and use the very effective manual focus 'peeking' features ... that can be a lot of fun.
  11. To be honest, maybe no one else has noticed that because it is so minor, no one cares. I shoot weddings with the 16/1.4 and 35/1.4 for the indoor 'stuff' and am almost always shooting manual and something so minor as that .... it simply isn't going to get noticed.
  12. The metering mode you have the camera body in will affect how the flash works. Shoot a stationary scene with the flash in TTL and try shooting that scene in each of the cameras metering modes. Try this with different scenes. It will show you how some metering modes produce very inconsistent or less desirable results when others work well. I have the X-500 and it works quite well for recycle and lighting the subject. Much like my old Nikon SB800 and SB900's when on a Nikon body. Remember that if your flash is blasting lots of power, recycle time will be slow compared to the next pic you take in a different scenario where the flash may only blast at 1/32 and have instant recycle. And full charged batteries makes a difference. I always use rechargeables and always have them fully charged when going to use the flash. After I've banged off approx 50 pics (more or less) in the same day I usually swap the batteries for freshly charged batteries. Keeps the flash working the best.
  13. That's too bad. I have two XT-2's and have shot many weddings on them. I've never had the problems you are experiencing. I use both Fuji and Watson batteries. Both SD slots have identical make/speed cards ... but one is 64gig the other is 32gig. Always have latest firmware on my cameras. I think your experiences to comment about it being worrying and raising questions about the reliability for professional work may be quite limited to just you since it is used that way on a global scale. But you certainly have a valid concern with the unit you have. I'd pursue having it replaced or have Fuji service it while being clear to them that you intent to use it professionally.
  14. That thing is HUGE. Have you tested it out? If so, how is it's easy-of-use and reliability with the strobes?
  15. Like so many companies ... they take your $ in an instance. But when you want to cancel they give the " we'll get around to it when we get around to it ".
  16. I like and use the 10-24 because it is sharp, focuses quick has little distortion and IS. I wish it was a 2.8 lens ... but with the IS ... if you don't need a quick shutter speed, I've hand held shots to 1/5 of a second and had great results.
  17. The rumor is not a sensor change but adding in body stabilization and improved video capabilities. It is rumored to be a new model more for the video shooters.
  18. Once I had to use an undelete utility to get images. I have Sandisk cards and used their undelete software and it worked for most of the images. In my case, it wasn't card error however, I had accidentally formatted the card with images on it I still needed. Years ago when I shot Nikon I had a couple images on the CF card dedicated to RAW files get corrupt. But on the 2nd card I had JPG copies and the JPG were OK. When that happened I was convinced on the need for 2 card slots.
  19. It's Lightroom. In the fall of 2017 there was an update that was suppose to improve performance across the entire Lightroom application for everyone. Loading files, exporting, switching between modules, etc. Some commented it was noticeably faster. It just depended on what you were doing, and the type of files you were processing. I have a workhorse of a machine and found the improvement in speed (in some cases) noticable. But it wasn't anything to get excited over. I still convert my RAW files with X-Transformer to DNG (I do this in batch), then I load the DNG into Lightroom. Even with working with Adobes own DNG format .. I still find the performance of Lightroom to be disappointing. Particulaly if you use the clone/healing tool quite a bit in a single image. I'd recommend giving the demo of a couple other tools a try. I have read via the FujiLove site that Alien Skin Software - Exposure X3 is quite good and is very similar to Lightroom in layout and editing.
  20. If they released one or two pro level telephoto lenses and then did lots of sponsoring at the winter & summer Olympics ... with a fair number photographers wearing their shirts/jackets and using Fuji gear ... that would certainly help their image and get exposure (pun intended).
  21. It looks to me like you have simply under exposed the image. The LCD may be showing you an auto-brightness preview (where the camera does what it needs to do to show you the image) and not an exposure preview. If you change the setting on the camera to have the LCD/EVF show you an exposure preview, you will see what the actual image will be when you press the shutter. Also double check you have not accidentally changed the exposure compensation. I have done that a couple of times and had it at -2 by mistake.
  22. I tried to import a Fuji XT1 raw file into the software and it did not recognize the file. Hopefully in time the software will be enhanced to work with every Fuji RAW file. Since the camera must be plugged into the computer to use the camera's RAW processor ... as long as a camera supports USB plug into a PC ... I'd hope the software will be enhanced to work with that camera.
  23. You have to change it for every lens you mount on the camera. That is why I wish Fuji would allow that setting to be added to the Q Menu !!!!! The value you enter does nothing to correct the image due to any possible lens distortion. It is only adding that focal length to the EXIF data. Have fun shooting with vintage adapted lenses.
  24. I use to when I started my part time photography business. But over the years I realized it accomplished nothing. So I don't any longer. Images that I post online are typically no more than 2 mp and I usually save them at 1 DPI.
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