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Adam Woodhouse

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Adam Woodhouse last won the day on July 10 2020

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About Adam Woodhouse

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    http://www.adamwoodhouse.info

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    Ontario, Canada

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  1. Thank you for the replies. I know the difference between continuous and shooting only modes. I feel the little description on the LCD for continuous mode doesn't help and is confusing. But having read manuals, it's pretty straight forward. So ... it appears that if the lens has a OIS on/off switch, we can go with just IBIS if we want (and in the menu turn off IBIS when on a tripod). But if the lens doesn't have a switch then the lens OIS is on if the body IBIS is on and off if the body IBIS is off.
  2. This is why I have always used my iPhone for pano's and been repeated impressed with the results.
  3. Hi. Recently got the combo XT4 and 16-80/4 lens and was really surprised to see no OIS on/off switch like my 10-24/4 lens. I see in the menu an option for IS on/off ... I'm assuming that is for just the sensor? Is there no way to turn the lens IOS off but have just the sensor on or is this setup that when the menu says "on" both lens and sensor are on ... and when the menu says "off" both the lens and sensor are off? Thanks!
  4. Oh, OK. Thanks. I thought that either Fuji would have them for download or Skylum would have had their own version for download. But if I have to find them through some LUT provider, then the search begins ....
  5. I just purchased Luminar 2018 and looking forward to the Dec 2018 release of their cataloging tool. When I open a Fuji XT2 raw file, under LUT's there are no Fuji profiles. I contacted their support and they said 'you have to load LUTs to see them in the list'. Fair enough. Problem is when I go to Skylums website there are no Fuji LUT's to download on their LUT's download page. I thought the offered Fuji colour profiles? Maybe I am confusing techniques and terminology? Where would I get the proper Fuji LUT's if that is what I am to use? Fuji website only has one LUT and that is for
  6. Great group of images. The B&W works well. Like any grouping of images, some are really strong and some aren't. That would be an interesting subject to photograph.
  7. I also purchased a used X-Pro1 over a year back. I already have 2 XT2's that I've used pretty heavy for wedding work and wanted to give this style of camera a try. I don't like that the focus peek assist for adapted lenses is so very weak compared to XT2. I mostly wanted it for adapted lenses but the focus peak colour highlight is pretty crappy on the X-Pro1. And when I use Fuji glass the auto focus performance is quite poor. But it is to be expected since it is an old gen camera. I mostly expected to use adapted glass anyways. You can't get a feel for current Fuji equipment when us
  8. I had a Nikon D700 fail due to power board/power connector issue (so they say). It was out of warranty as well and cost approx the same. Had many more actuation's that yours, but actuation's aren't really related to a motherboard issue. Of course it failed at the start of a wedding gig I was doing. Had a Nikon D610 curtain blow out of the track and get jammed. It was again ... out of warranty and no where near the actuation count the shutter mechanism was rated for. That was around the same cost to repair. Of course it failed at the start of a wedding gig as well. Needless to s
  9. If not wanting to go with custom white balance .... this may help ... I usually shoot portraits in Astia film sim. I've used that mode for years shooting weddings and found it to be great. This is assuming the lighting in the environment you are shooting isn't wacky (i.e in blue shade or under yellow/green florescent lighting in a community centre, etc).
  10. Some very good feedback on this thread. I use to shoot with D200 and D700, then later with D610 and D3s. The D700 was an excellent camera body, as was the D200. They were true work horses. If you reviewed one of my shared galleries, you won't be able to tell which of the different Nikon or Fuji cameras I used. http://adamwoodhouse.info/kawartha-gallery/ I mostly shoot raw because I like to have the greater latitude to push and pull the image in post. For my own casual, family stuff I usually shoot JPG to keep it quick and simple, but other work is raw. I found I couldn't re
  11. To be honest, maybe no one else has noticed that because it is so minor, no one cares. I shoot weddings with the 16/1.4 and 35/1.4 for the indoor 'stuff' and am almost always shooting manual and something so minor as that .... it simply isn't going to get noticed.
  12. The metering mode you have the camera body in will affect how the flash works. Shoot a stationary scene with the flash in TTL and try shooting that scene in each of the cameras metering modes. Try this with different scenes. It will show you how some metering modes produce very inconsistent or less desirable results when others work well. I have the X-500 and it works quite well for recycle and lighting the subject. Much like my old Nikon SB800 and SB900's when on a Nikon body. Remember that if your flash is blasting lots of power, recycle time will be slow compared to the next pic
  13. That's too bad. I have two XT-2's and have shot many weddings on them. I've never had the problems you are experiencing. I use both Fuji and Watson batteries. Both SD slots have identical make/speed cards ... but one is 64gig the other is 32gig. Always have latest firmware on my cameras. I think your experiences to comment about it being worrying and raising questions about the reliability for professional work may be quite limited to just you since it is used that way on a global scale. But you certainly have a valid concern with the unit you have. I'd pursue having it replaced o
  14. That thing is HUGE. Have you tested it out? If so, how is it's easy-of-use and reliability with the strobes?
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