Adam Woodhouse

That article was very interesting and taught me something new. Thanks for sharing!

jeremyclarke ... time for an XT2 then! looks like you may get what you want ..... http://www.fujirumors.com/fujifilm-officially-announces-new-firmware-x-t2-x-pro2-33-improvements-full-list/

We need to do a little bit of Kaizen on this forum!

Yes they are known for their lenses. I don't believe you experienced a flaw in the lens but a flaw in the cameras CPU logic when recording video. Video is an immature product for the Fujifilm line and we have to remember that when we use it. The video on the 2016 Fujifilm cameras is much much better than it was 3 years ago. So it's going in the right direction. I recall when I used video on the Nikon full frame bodies when video first came to them and there were many issues there as well.

See if you can get your hands on another lens and test with it. It may not happen with another lens. When the XT2 came out it had issues with the 18-135 lens in certain situations that they say they fixed in the latest firmware update. Another thing to try is if you are going to use a tripod and a stationary subject, look into a classic manual focus film lens and an adapter to attach it to the camera. That method is used a lot by those that use DSLR for video work. It is cheap with great results (and a low cost alternative).

Careful ... it can get addicting.

I just got the Takumar 55/1.8 and only had a chance to play with it a little. I don't have the 56/1.2 Fuji so this was a cheap alternative. So far, I'm quite happy with it. It didn't come with proper lens caps or lens good, so I have (via ebay) ordered proper lens caps and a genuine Takumar lens hood. When they arrive (hopefully in the next week), my Takumar 55/1.8 will be 100% genuine and complete. I've gotten all of my adapters off of Amazon and I think I have 3 different brands in total and they pretty much all seem to be built the same. All were around $40 CAD delivered.

You stacked lens adapters? How does this affect the performance of the lens? Does it give a closer focusing distance? Anything else it affects?

If you are in a tight jam, you may be able to rent the gear you need to get through that March 15th commitment. Personally I have never rented gear, but have heard good things from those that have used that service from time-to-time.

Anyone remember many years back when the computer RAM manufacturing plant had a disaster? I can't recall if it was fire or flood. I think it was a flood. Anyhow ... it took at least a couple of years before RAM prices came back down and availability became plentiful.

And I got mine on the day it came out by walking into the camera store when they opened and asked that when the pre-orders are handed out today, would there be any extra that I can get one. There was only one extra and I snagged that. I was lucky. I've been very surprised at how long these cameras have been back ordered. They seem to show up in stores for all but a day, then sold out again. The quantity being shipped to stores has to be very low. I can only guess it is because of that earthquake last year and the announcement that that the sensor manufacturing plants were months behind schedule due to the earthquake.

Yes. The father was a bit long winded ... but proud. Fortunately that isn't the norm.

As mentioned above, most camera's viewfinders do not show 100% of what the resulting image will show. 95% is a common number I've seen on cameras over the years. I think there was a Sony released several years back that was something awful ... 75% or something like that! The fact that the Fuji do > 95% is quite good.

The recommendation for a Lav mic is a good one. 1/2 of video is the audio. You won't be happy with the onboard mic if not standing close to the camera. I shoot video on a tripod with my XT2 at 1080p (manual focus, manual exposure) and the results are excellent. I prefer the colour profile Astia, but the default/most common Provia is good. The advice above is quite good and thorough. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/find/newsLetter/Lavalier-Microphones.jsp

Hi. The glitch I was referring to was a YouTube video I watched a couple months back where a couple of fellows were doing a review of the Fuji system and used the XT2 to record the video ... but had it in 4K. They used manual focus for the recording but the focus would actually adjust every now-and-then where the recording would go in and out of focus. That should obviously not happen when in manual focus mode. They commented in the video (I think it was by putting a text overlay when they uploaded it) that they didn't know (and was surprised) the focus was doing that and that they reported it to Fuji and said Fuji was aware of the glitch. They also commented in 1080p it doesn't do that (while in manual focus). When it comes to recording 1080p ... I have put my XT2 on a tripod and recorded speeches at weddings. Manual exposure and manual focus. The longest was a speech that went 25 minutes. I have not had any automated and unwanted focus changes or exposure changes as of yet. I did do a video for a real estate agent recently, and in one of the short video snippets of the property, the video did something odd. It was a quick in and out of focus (when it shouldn't as I was using AF-S and locked my focus point before I started recording). But it only happened in one short scene. I have noticed that if the EVF is set to auto exposure but you are recording video on manual settings, the video will maintain its consistent exposure as you move around however what I see on the LCD/EVF will change since it is in auto exposure. That throws me off as I think the video is also changing ... which it is not. If I set the EVF to be manual preview (which I now do all the time for video) I have found that works best when shooting manual video. When you say exposure will jump around, is that what you see while you are recording, or you see it in the results?

I don't think Capture One supports compressed RAF files yet. ON1 and Lightroom do.

The needs of the working pro differ from the needs of the enthusiast. Since my photography is almost 100% professional as I have other hobbies I spend my time at .... I can comment that I use the 10-24/F4 a lot when shooting a wedding ceremony to fly between the ultra wide angle for the entire scene and then back to fully zoomed in for the candid shots as I walk around perimeter of the ceremony. I also use that lens a lot for the first dances at the reception to get the awesome ultra wide angle of the decorations and guests as they have their first dance, then I zoom in all the way to get a waste-up shot of them with a little of the background. When I shot Nikon I had the same lens but it was F2.8. I noticed the extra stop loss of F4 when I got the Fuji during the darker dance times. To try to keep the background similar, I had to now go higher ISO or slower shutter speed (would prefer the slower shutter speed) ... it depends on the scenario. But for the most part, it made no difference for the ceremony's having to go F4. But that zoom range is very handy to have when doing closer, more intimate photojournalism style of work.

As per the OP comment, the slow movement of aperture blades when the lens is stopped down also happens on my XT2 but it depends on the lens I have mounted. I don't stop down too often due to the type of shooting I do, so I haven't noticed it much. But I did report it to Fuji support when I first got my XT2 because I thought something was wrong. On my XT2, when the aperture blades are moving through slow steps back to wide open my LCD flickers a little. That is why I opened the support ticket. But from what I've learned, it is normal. Seems odd to me, but it is the way it is.

When I went from Nikon full frame 12mp camera to using at the same time Nikon full frame 24mp camera, I also noticed noise on the 24mp images at a lower ISO than on the 12mp camera. I concluded that due to being a new 24mp sensor and having more detail, noise was more evident. But when I reduced the 24mp files to 12mp to do an apples-to-apples comparison, the difference was negligible. On the Fuji, I also shoot XT1 and XT2 and have noticed what you said. I concluded the same thing was happening as my previous experience and would expect that a 2nd generation 24mp Fuji sensor would improve the noise at the lower ISO (since this is their first generation 24mp sensor). Something to be mindful of is they are different cameras and different sensors. So there are going to be small differences. Expecting the exact same results in your images between the two cameras (with the exception one is higher MP) will result in disappointment.

I think your comparison between LR and ON1 is quite obvious and striking. Between ON1 and Iridient ... they look like they are so close that only those interested in over-the-top pixel peeping would probably care.

Thanks Wolf. Appreciate the time you have put into making us aware of this great product. I know I will spend some time with the new ON1 product as I have no loyalty to Lightroom. But Lightroom has been a good product for me over the years (for the most part). But Lightroom is annoyingly slow with RAF processing even on my workhorse of a computer and me doing tricks such as creating Smart Previews and then renaming my RAW file folder so that its only using the Smart Preview is a bit of an annoying workaround. The sharpening I use in LR works OK (definitely a must as the default LR sharpening setting is wrong for RAF files) ... but I don't like how it quickly LR sharpening makes the images more noisy and a bit 'crunchy' when it appears ON1 has a much better sharpening engine (that and the incredible shadow recovery got my ON1 attention). But I love the LR Fujifilm colour profiles for the RAF files and don't want to give those up ... so hope ON1 has something similar soon.

I was excited but then read this. http://blog.thomasfitzgeraldphotography.com/blog/2017/2/onone-raw-improves-x-trans-support-sort-of Wolf ... from your experiences can you comment if this is isolated case or a legit issue? Thanks.

I know the first time I shot a hockey arena I got underexposed images so I did a EV bump, but after that shoot I found I needed more of a EV bump and now find that if I just point the lens at the rink/boards while players are out and then note the exposure, I then make a change + 1 stop adjustment (while shooting in manual so that my results are consistent, particularly with video) ... found I get pretty good results.

Also, if you leave the battery out of the body for a period of time the internal battery that keeps the BIOS settings will reset. I fired up an XT1 I had sitting around for a few months (don't keep the battery in the bodies I have sitting around) and it had reset to factory defaults. I put a fully charged battery in it and left it for a few days to recharge whatever keeps the BIOS settings I customized.

It may be referring to North American and European formats of NTSC or PAL. 30 frames per second (FPS) or 25 FPS. There is lots of discussion online about the choice. I'm in Canada, so I go with NTSC if asked. If you recorded your video at 30FPS or 60FPS, then your software should probably be set to NTSC. If you recorded at 24 or 25 or 50 FPS, I'm guessing you could set it to PAL, not sure if that is necessary or not. I know some record their video at 24FPS but still prep it for north american standards. I always go with NTSC and stick with 30FPS for simplicity. But I'm not an expert on this topic, that's just my experience.