Adam Woodhouse

Yup, I found the same thing. If there is something very bright, the metering result is an under exposed image by approx 1+ stop. I commented on it via this forum back in Sept. It seems that the XT2 is afraid of lots of highlights in a scene and runs in the opposite direction by greatly under exposing. The XT1 seemed to not care as much which resulted in some pretty good exposures/metering when there were some strong highlights.

Very odd. I have shot 4 weddings with my XT2 and some high school football. Images are razer sharp when I nail focus and don't have camera shake. I have found in going from XT1 to XT2 (as I found the same when I went from 12mp Nikon to 24mp Nikon) that it is much easier to have a slightly soft image due to camera shake because the greater pixel density of the same size sensor will be less forgiving with camera shake at same focal lengths. This was a common problem people that jumped on the Nikon D800 band-wagon when it first came out. Many didn't do their homework and learned (for some a costly lesson) that they can't hand hold that camera at the lower shutter speeds like they use to on their previous lower MP cameras. Nikon's public response was "the new D800 forces you to be a better photographer". LOL There was a ton of buzz about it because so many people noticed it. The new Canon 50mp have addressed this in their hardware/software. The greater the pix density, the more noticeable camera shake (even when it is very little) appears. I'm not saying that is the cause (particularly if manual focus works perfect every time and AF does not) ... I'm saying I've seen something similar at another time and that was the cause back then.

Looks like your typical APS-C high ISO cropped image.

One thing to consider to not have this problem is no filter on the lens. Are these problems happening with no filter? I ask because I purchased a B+W filter for my 10-24/F4 (simply a clear protective filter) and I had something that never happened before. When shooting towards a light source (such as an object that was back lit) I was getting what I can best describe as a reflection of light in one part of the frame ... which resulted in a noticeable area have a white/low contrast spot. At first I could not figure out what was happening in certain lighting conditions. I then clued in that this started to happen when I put the new B+W filter on. So now I don't use any filters on that lens ... and problem hasn't re-occurred.

Ya, VLC on all platforms seems to be the go-to video player and has been for many years.

Great image. And shows how insanely sharp that lens can be.

If it is not playing back it is most likely a CODEC issue. It has nothing to do with the OS of choice. It is possible that your very dated OS doesn't have the CODEC installed. You may be able to find out what the CODEC is and install it on your computer. As mentioned above, it may be resolved by installing the H264 CODEC. Installing something like VLC player may install the CODEC for you at the same time.

I think the moire concern is with the video output of the Fuji systems, not the still images. But I could be mistaken ....

It is possible that the metering mode you have the camera set to is different than what the EVF is using to show preview. I'm not sure but if the EVF always uses full scene metering but the camera is set to spot metering ... you'll get different results in the image than what the EVF is showing. I have had that throw me off before. I find for consistency I shoot in manual and have the EVF set to exposure preview so that I see what the exposure will be. As long as I'm not needing TTL flash in a poorly lit area, this works for me. When I shot traditional SLR the image in the pentaprism always showed the current lighting conditions, so I had to rely on the exposure meter when shooting manual. I found with the EVF that it throws me off when set to auto-brightness/exposure because the scene will (most of the time) look good but the resulting image may be a different brightness when I have the camera in my commonly used aperture priority simply because the metering mode I have the camera in is different than whatever the EVF is using for auto-brightness preview.

Can you test setting the FPS of continuous low to another value? It kind of makes sense that when using a burst mode that if there is a software glitch, it would show up then. Either continuous focusing or burst shooting. I don't use either so I have not experienced this problem (fortunately). I'm a single shot, single focus point shooter (primarily).

The first post where you see the shadow of the aircraft on the clouds directly ahead ... that is a stand out image. Very good. Many of these images people see when they look out the window as they fly ... but that perspective of the shadow on the clouds is special because almost no one will see that.

(must click to see animation)

Auto brightness of the EVF could cause confusion. That is a good point. I'll have to look at what mine is set to because I know there have been times where I have been confused as to what the final exposure will be versus what I'm seeing in the EVF. I have always assumed that I cannot trust what I see in the EVF as final exposure when the camera is in any auto-metering mode. But I think I have changed the exposure compensation when shooting Aperture priority and see the EVF change (some of the time).

I think this may be a rare occurrence as it doesn't seem to have a large user base shouting about it. I shoot into the sun from time to time for strong lens flare or silhouettes and have not experienced this.

Video looks very good to me. Both the shooting and editing. I have read that some will 'flatten' the dynamic range a bit by changing the highlight and shadow settings of the profile they use so that there is more wiggle room in post. I think there may be a few YouTube vid's of people showing the results of doing that. Also, there is a rumor that the new firmware coming out will help with dynamic range in video.

I have never understood what the difference was between HIGH and LOW in the manual focus assist settings.

I did a bit of testing this evening. I found that regardless of the F stop, the focus indicator when in manual focus does not change in size. So I tested a shot @ F2.8 and F11. What I found was the focus indicator seems to show where centre of the DoF (or what is in focus) will be. I shot a piece of paper that had text on it from top to bottom and shot the text in the middle with the camera being approx 45 degrees to the paper. So the area of focus (or DoF) was very obivous. And when I shot it at F11, the area in front of and behind the manual focus assist line was pretty evenly in focus. This help?

Well this certainly hasn't been happening to everyone, so that's a good thing. But sucks that it happens at all. I had another wedding on the weekend with the XT2 and the only thing that was different this time was I had the vertical battery grip installed as I just picked it up. I always shot AF-S and in most cases just single point, but in some cases, multi-point. Had same 3 batteries in the camera all day (two Fuji and one Watson). I think the two Fuji I had in it were from my XT1. Slot 1 is 64Gig Sandisk and Slot 1 is 32Gig Sandisk. Both 95mb/s. Slot 1 is compressed RAW + video, Slot 2 is medium quality JPG. I always format them in the camera before a shoot. On this body one body at this one wedding ... over 10+hrs, I shoot approx 900 images and 25min of 1080p 30fps video (some hand held, other video on a tripod with a boom mic). I had zero freezes that day and zero since purchasing the camera (got it day of release). Am I lucky? Maybe. I hope this issue is resolved for everyone with the anticipated first firmware release.

I have only played with it a little bit (will play with it more when my Rokinon FishEye arrives tomorrow), but have found that it is finicky and takes practice to learn how it works. I believe the visual marker we see when moving the focus ring indicates the front of the Depth of Field (DoF). So the part in focus should be (approx) what is immediately behind the indicator. At least that is what I recall when I used it last. If you are at a small aperture, then the DoF results will be greater (naturally) but the focus peek indicator is still the same regardless of F-stop. It would be pretty slick if the focus assist changed with the aperture to give us an area of focus to expect (or illustrate the expected DoF) .. but alas ... do any mirrorless cameras do that currently? I know the Sony and Lecia have a pretty slick manual focus peeking feature, but I've never used one personally.

I have found my 35/1.4 to focus faster on the XT2 versus XT1. This thread was started to ask if others have experienced when stopping down the aperture (i.e. F11) and take a picture, if the lens slowly or quickly returns to a wide open aperture after the picture is taken? I have found on the XT2 that the aperture slowly returns to wide open (may take up to 2 seconds) which results in a flickering LCD while the blades slowly open up.

I have a Canon and a Nikon lens adapter and thought of getting a used Fisheye from one of those systems. Can use it the odd time during the wedding dances I shoot regularly. I see there is a low cost option that is a Fuji mount already. The Opteka 6.5mm. Anyone have experience with that lens? Price for new on Amazon is great. Would be shooting it at F4 usually, so a slightly slower lens than the others that are F2.8 is a non-issue (and a bit of a cost savings). Thanks

Thanks to those that have jumped into the conversation and shared their experiences on what the original post was asking. I've found it interesting that what my camera does (the slow opening of the aperture after focus/picture is taken) is normal. For what I do, I don't care about the changing aperture pre/post focusing either in AF-S or AF-C. Most of the time I shoot wide open anyways and most of the time in AF-S. What I do care about is the LCD flickering as the aperture blades slowly open from a smaller aperture that was used for a photo (say taking a family group shot @ F5.6 or a landscape @ F11). I thought there was an electrical issue with the camera seeing the LCD flickering for no apparent reason (as I've not noticed it happening on my two XT1's). My hope is that it isn't necessary for the aperture blades to re-open slowly and a firmware update addresses that, which in turn addresses the screen flicker. Fuji Canada service centre is aware of this as I've shared the info with them.

I use the same setup as sacherjj and have had great luck with off camera manual flash. For on camera TTL I have had pretty good success with Nissin i40 on my XT1. But you have to turn the flash on first, then the XT1 second or there may be problems and it may not fire. On the XT2, it does nothing (it fires, but at approx 1/128 power and cannot be changed). In time I expect I'll send it in for the firmware update. I'm curious about the new i60.

I stand corrected on one thing. One good thing that I just learned (actually I learned 2 things when testing on the XT2). 1st, put the camera focus mode in C but use the single point focus point, not the multi-focus point. Then when you press the video record button, you can use the joystick to move the single focus point around and the continuous auto focus will follow that single focus point. So you can change focus point/location while recording video!! I did not know that! 2nd ... when the camera is in focus mode M (or the lens is in manual focus mode) you still get focus assist while recording video. I think on the XT1 there was no focus assist while recording video. So manual focus while recording video is much easier now. A double win for us!