Adam Woodhouse

You cannot change focus point while shooting video. Hopefully this will change in time with Firmware updates, but like the XT1, that can't be done. I don't believe you are seeing what you think you are seeing on YouTube. If you can post the YouTube link to what you are referring to, I can see and maybe better comment on it. You either have the camera in S focus mode and focus first then press the record button and the focus stays locked at that focal distance; or you put the camera focus in M and do the same by pressing the AF-L button .... or you put the camera focus mode in C and let it be fully autofocusing as you record (like a traditional camcorder). While having the camera focus mode in M, you can change the focus while you record video by turning the lens focus ring. Some lens respond quickly while you turn it, others respond very slow and are a nuisance to manual focus. But keeping a close eye on the LCD is needed and for the most part, you can do pretty good getting subject in focus as long as your not shooting with a very shallow DOF. With an adapter you can put other manufacturer lenses on your Fuji and using manual focus have some fun. I have a Nikon and Canon adapters (got them off Amazon for all of approx $30 each) and can put on the camera very old lenses. They manual focus great. They are a bit soft compared to the very sharp Fuji lenses ... but with video I find it a bit more forgiving. Hope that helps.

On my XT1, when I stop down a lens (say F11) and look at the lens I can see it is still wide open (say F2.8). When I engage focus, or take the pic, the aperture blades quickly stop down to the proper setting. When I take the pic or release the focus, the aperture blades quickly return to wide open position. On the XT2, what is happening is the aperture blades are returning from the stopped down setting to wide open very slowly. I can watch the aperture blades over approx a 1 - 2 sec period slowly return to the lenses wide open state. I noticed this because the LCD's on the XT2 will flicker as the aperture blades return to wide open. Since I shoot most of my lenses wide open, I never really noticed this (plus on the XT1 the blades returned to wide open instant, so there was nothing to notice). But on the XT2, I have tested 16/1.4, 35/1.4 and 16-55/2.8 and all very slowly return to a wide open aperture after I release the shutter (with a noticable LCD flicker). Thanks

I use the Yongnou 560 with my XT1 and XT2 via their on-camera trigger system. Mine are Nikon pins. I have no experience with the XPro 1. But I read somewhere that the Canon pin layout being different than the Nikon ... it can cause a problem. I can't recall if it was pin location and not touching the connectors properly, or a voltage difference that may cause a problem. I wonder if you got your hands on a Nikon Yongnou if you'd have the same problem? Or ... get someone with the Nikon version and XPro 1 to give their experiences.

I found my 35/1.4 doesn't cause the LCD flicker (post picture capture) when the camera is in Boost mode (not using the battery grip). I have opened a channel with Fuji support on this and they have requested me shoot a video of it to send since they could not reproduce it.

I put a little bit of Sugru on my AF-L buttons on the body and the battery grip. Works like a charm.

i60a does not currently work TTL on XT2. There is a thread on this already I believe. Firmware update to i60a will make it XT2 TTL, but that is scheduled for Oct and means you need to return flash to iNissin for them to flash the unit. It is possible their later production runs will have the new firmware with XT2 TTL capability. Currently, to get TTL on XT2, you need to look at the older Fuji-42 flash. I'm hoping by Nov both iNissin 60a and Fuji X500 flashes will be on the market (with i60a TTL support for XT2).

Yes it does help quite a bit. I've shot video with non-IS lenses on my Fuji XT1 and/or XT2 and also with IS lens and it certainly makes a difference (for me) with focal lengths 50mm and up.

Agreed. I use to shoot my son when he played box lacrosse (player #11). Same conditions as hockey, same arena, same crap lighting, but no ice. If I could get away with a prime lens, then non-issue because I would shoot wide open. But I liked to use the constant aperture zooms to zoom in and out more easily. For stills, I would prefocus at the goalie and wait for him to take a shot at net. So never really tested AFC or event AF at this indoor sport. But I did some at his indoor basketball last year (AF-S) and had good results. He doesn't play lacrosse anymore so I won't be in an arena to test the XT2 with indoor sports (at least until my kids high school indoor sports start in a couple of months) .... but I can share a vid I did when I first got the XT1 and tried it for indoor arena work. Video was easy because I only needed a shutter of 1/30 or 1/60 (I found shooting video @ 30fps ... 1/30 or 1/60 shutter didnt' seem to make any difference in the result so I would normally use 1/30 for the extra stop of light).

Maybe it would be worth while to inquire with Cactus to ask if they plan on implementing via Firmware the ability to do HSS on the XT2. Others (like me) would be interested to hear what you learn as it is a product I have on my wish list. Thanks

The fact that IS still works while you shoot video on a Fuji is a big perk. When I use to shoot Nikon, the VR would turn off when shooting video ... a real nuisance.

Only thing I could find was this dated comparison with D810. Not an apples-to-apples comparison, but all I could find as of end of Sept, 2016.

I too have found waking the camera up from sleep sometimes takes too long, or I have to press the shutter button a couple of times to wake it up. Odd.

Excellent images! Some of those should be printed as a very large canvas and mounted on walls of mansion! Unfortunately, I don't have a mansion to extend the offer.

I would be very interested to see a challenging environment like that and have the same photographer use for half the event the 50-140/2.8 + XT2 (in boost mode) and then for the other half use Nikon D500 + 70-200/2.8 (a disadvantage of the Nikon is there isn't an effective focal length lens of 70-200 @ 2.8 for the Nikon crop sensor, but that shouldn't matter in a situation like this) .... and then hear their experiences. Using the different focusing modes and burst modes. I'm think that in most situations the performance of the two would be quite comparable.

That's possible, but I don't think so. I never use CF. I asked a Fuji tech rep on Sept 8 at the release of the XT2 why the back focus button on the XT1 was so slow compared to the shutter button. He said it is contrast detection only. I commented that the XT2 I had in my hand (what I just purchased and was playing with his sample lenses) was nice and fast back focus .. and he said it is because it now uses phase detection. The two XT1's I have both have latest firmware and still have slow back-focus speed. If there is a menu setting I'm missing and the Fuji tech forgot to mention it .. please let us know as I'd love to enable it!

That side 1/4-20 socket on the flash is a great idea. I wish they all had that!

For the work I do, I found the autofocus (I use single point most of the time) and the shutter release button to both be much more quicker. Welcome bonus. I found it took some time to get use to the focus joystick but as I get more comfortable with its feel, I'm really liking it. I change ISO and Shutter quite a bit as I work, so not having to press the lock button is an excellent bonus. The slightly larger knobs and not having to press the lock make changing the settings easier, and thus more pleasant. The back button auto-focus is better because on the XT1 it was contrast detect only. On the XT2 it now works the same as the shutter button and uses the phase detect ... so it is MUCH better. Being a back-focus guy, I was very happy to get that perk.

I made an assumption it was a standard size, so I purchased these the other day to give them a try on the XT2. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/151848518098?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Fortunately, so far I have not had the freezing issue with my new XT2. I have shot 3 weddings with it so far (1/2 images shot on XT1 and 1/2 on XT2). But the 3rd wedding I intentionally favored the XT2 so I shot almost 75% on it. When I shot Nikon and with the XT2, I always put two identical cards in the two slots. I have always used Sandisk. The first 2 weddings I had two 32Gig Sandisk 95mb/s cards (one for RAW, one for medium JPG and I had video going to slot 2). The 3rd wedding I purchased a 64Gig Sandisk 95mb/s and shot the 3rd wedding with the 64Gig in slot 1 and the 32Gig in slot 2 (and changed the camera to put video on slot 1). Even though the sizes were different, make and speed were the same. I was always using single shot mode, not burst. My cameras firmware is 1.0 No issues thus far.

Excellent images. Thanks for sharing.

Not that I'm aware of.

On average, my XT1 RAF files are approx 33meg. On average, my XT2 RAF Compressed files are 27meg.

I have vertical grip on order. I shoot weddings and I find it a necessity. However, when not shooting a wedding, I don't have it on the XT1's I currently own. I really like the smaller add-on metal hand grip as it makes the body very comfortable to hold in my average adult male hand. I have one for both my XT1 and just picked up one for my new XT2 and leave them on the bodies. It is way over priced and have read there are good, cheap knock-off's ...

I know that as I've owned different cameras over the years (Nikon D80, D200, D300, D300s, D700, D610, D3s) and now two Fuji's (XT1 and XT2) ... every camera meters a little different. I have found it simply is a learning curve and getting use to the personality of the new camera. My original post was directed at two very different results from the XT1 and XT2 when I thought the metering mode on the cameras were set the same. Since they were not, it makes sense I would have had such drastic differences in certain scenarios. In particular, images on my XT2 were almost 1 full stop underexposed when there was something bright (i.e. a white shirt that dominated the scene) and that didn't happen on the XT1. But that was when I was using a different metering mode on the XT2 versus the XT1 which I didn't realize at the time.

I love that the stabilized lenses still do their stabilization while shooting video. On my past Nikon gear, the VR did not work when shooting video. That is a strong perk for Fuji video and hand held shooting.