Adam Woodhouse

To view the entire printed manual, in different languages ... go here. http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t2/index.html

Picked up mine today. Didn't pre-order. Just took a gamble and walked into the brick & mortar camera shop and asked. They had just received their shipment and was filling pre-orders. Was told only if there is any extra ... and there was only one. LOL Just the right time and I got it. Will use during this weekends wedding along with my other two XT1's, but the playing with it I did today had excellent results. Very nice feel, 1080p and 4K video is stunning. Wicked sharp video. The continuous autofocus during video was pretty good as well. I liked that I could use single point autofocus and flip to video mode and press the shutter half way and lock my autofocus ... then press the rest of the way to start video recording. That is a technique I used quite a bit on my old Nikon gear for simple video work and am glad it is back on the XT2. I don't have the vertical grip yet so can't comment on the boost, but found single point and multi-point phase detection auto-focus to be very quick and snappy on my 16-55/2.8. The auto-focus point adjust with the joystick is the cat's-meow. Acros @ 6400 ISO was excellent. Also played with the new X500 flash for a while on my new body as the Fuji rep on site had it along with every other Fuji product. I put the flash on the body in TTL and set my shutter and aperture/iso so that the image was underexposed by a couple of stops and walked around the camera store bouncing the flash to see power level, auto white balance results, etc. I was pleased. Worked great. The flash isn't very heavy, so even though it is a bit bigger than desired, it wasn't out-of-balance on the XT2 with the 56/1.2 I was using at the time.

I've been back button focusing with my XT1 since I got it 18 months back. But ... with back button AF-L used for focusing (have it set to only focus when I press the button) ... the camera still has the shutter half pressed focus enabled. I think this new XT2 firmware will give the option to completely remove focusing from the shutter button. So a bit different if that is what you are looking for. But with the XT1, when holding the AF-L for back button focusing, the shutter response to the shutter button is instant ... as it should be. On the XT1 the back AF-L button for back button focusing only employees contrast focus, not the phase focus. So the AF-L can commonly take longer to lock focus. It is a nuisance and disappointing. But on the XT2, the AF-L button now uses the same phase detection focus so it is just as quick as the focus via the shutter release button.

I would recommend for the new Fuji 500 flash and the new iNissin and then go to a store that has them and play around with them while talking to the sales person. I'd expect that in the end, either will do the job well.

Maybe look at the Adobe Creative Cloud options.

To the original poster ... what an awesome experiment! Reminds me of when I flew large scale RC model airplanes and how fellows would create different battery packs to give longer lasting power ... or some created dual packs for redundancy. But most of us made our own battery packs and they kept our $500 - $2500 aircraft going just fine. I'm surprised something doesn't already exist like this on the secondary market for the different mirrorless cameras that suffer from low mah batteries. Keep us posted!

Ya .. Fotasy. I got that. But mine is a bit different. LINK -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDZ330M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've been happy with mine thus far (for the little I've used it).

Yes, my thought when I first saw the Fuji 500 flash on the XT2 was that the flash was too large and thus unbalanced. My saving grace is I don't have a flash mounted too often on my camera body. But when I do ... I expect it will be a bit awkward. I'm hoping the new iNissin model will be better than the current (more reliable and a bit more durable) than the current iNissan as well as a bit smaller and a bit cheaper than the new Fuji 500 to give us another option.

Everything I have read says to do it right and get the 100-400 with 1.4x teleconverter. Save the extra money ... wait a little longer to do it. In the end it would be worth it. Consider yourself investing in a lens you plan on using for at least 10 years ... so spending the extra $ is worth it. I have an old 1980's manual focus 100-500 Tamron F5.6 that only mounts on a tripod because it is so big and heavy. On my XT1 it is a 150-750mm. For the little I've played with it with birds (when they aren't moving since it is manual focus) ... I've been surprised how often I have it zoomed almost all the way. It was an eye opener to me that you will always want more reach.

Never heard of that lens before, but it doesn't look to expensive to give it a try. If the seller is posting genuine pic's from the lens, it looks like a great manual focus lens.

I purchased a Nikon adapter off Amazon last year for approx $35. Can't remember the brand name, but it had good reviews. It works great. I got one for Canon glass as well and it works equally as well. Spending approx $35 to try one isn't too big a deal to experiment.

It is essentially a lower cost alternative. You would need to compare the spec's of the two to see how they differ as I'm sure there are small differences. But having a lower cost alternative helps give us more options!

Yes, the Fuji flash system is obviously an area that has been a low priority for them. But it looks like this year that will start to change. And hopefully in time they will offer a smaller, lighter and cheaper version of the 500 that is coming out this fall. Needing two of these new 500 units is the same approach Nikon and Canon do on their high end bodies that don't have a built in flash and thus don't have a built in TTL transmitter. When I use to shoot with my Nikon D3s I had to have the 800 or 900 flash on the body to trigger another Nikon flash. So pretty much needed two of them. I recall there was an optional Tx device for the flash we could buy for the body versus using a flash, but it was costly alternative. The approach that Fuji is taking is the same. So those coming from the high end pro bodies of Nikon and Canon understand why and have been through it. That's just the way the camera's' that don't have a built in TTL transmitter do it. Now .... it would be nice to see Fuji release a lower cost Tx device to put on the camera versus another 500 flash to keep the cost and size/weight down ... and maybe they will in time. Here's hoping!

I think you may have found a unique condition where just the right conditions in a scene shows a flaw in the video capture process. Since it may happen so rarely amongst XT1 owners and so few of that small sub-set would even give it a second thought ... you may be one of a select few ... world wide ... that looked into it. If your local Fuji Rep could reproduce it on their camera, I'd consider it to be a quirk of the camera and put the issue to rest. If it is a problem you can't live with, the XT1 is the wrong tool for you. I rarely have to do video work for my clients but when I've had too ... I've been able to get by with the XT1 thus far. But I know there may be scenes that I shoot where the video quality will be lower than I hoped for. But I've managed. And knowing some of the quirks and doing a work around has helped. I'm anxious to have the XT2 so that the quirks I'm living with will then be a thing of the past (at least for me).

I think this persons problem is something different.

The face I'm making right now is the same as your avatar.

Maybe also try other frame rates when at it and using the rear LCD and not the EVF (not that I think it should make any difference, but worth a try).

When traveling I just bring the 10-24/F4 and 18-135/F3.5-5.6mm. This way I have a general walk around lens with OIS and a great ultra wide angle with OIS. It's a great, light combo.

That's pretty crazy! I've never noticed that. But when I shoot video, I press the AF-L button to set my focus (as I usually use that to focus versus the shutter button) ... I then flip the focus mode to manual and then hit the record button. I flip the focus mode to manual because if I leave the focus in Single (which I always use) and start to record video, the camera does some screwy refocus glitch and my focus is screwed up. If I put the camera into manual focus mode after I have focused, it doesn't touch the focus setting when I start to record video. This has produced good results for me. Some times I have had to put the focus mode to Continuous and then I start video recording because I or my subject is moving. I have on the odd time moved the focus ring on the lens while shooting video to readjust best I could when looking at the LCD. I have never seen anything like your video shows ...but I usually am shooting video (must like my stills) between F1.4 and F4. I wonder if the same happens with different lenses? I have the same lens and not noticed it for the little bit of video I have shot with it. I would try doing this test using the rear LCD and not the EVF. I should mention that I shoot at 1080p 30fps because I have found for some reason that when at 60fps, I've had quality issues. I stick with 1080p or 720p at 30fps and seem to have better quality.

I have not been able to find if the new flash has focus assist. It looks like it might have a small focus assist feature on the front of the flash, below the LED for video ... but haven't been able to confirm that. Anyone find confirmation?

I did this. Is it very bad? Keep in mind quality was reduced by YouTube when I did the upload (I'm not aware of how to maintain original quality of video during the upload to YouTube).

- I typically use the 16-55/2.8 and 50-140/2.8 for outdoor ceremony, family/wedding party/bride & groom time + casual shooting at outdoor parts of the wedding. - I typically use the 10-24/4, 16/1.4 and 35/1.4 when inside for the before ceremony getting ready and reception speeches and indoor casual shooting. Usually the first dance/parent dance as well. - For the end of night fast dancing I almost always use 10-24/4 and have it at 10mm to get that ultra wide look. For the most part, my recent blog post matches what I'm saying here. http://adamwoodhousephotography.ca/golden-beach-resort-wedding/

When I use to shoot Nikon (before my change to the Fuji line-up) I had 3 bodies repaired and one lens 'checked and cleaned'. They pretty much wouldn't touch the bodies for less than $300. The lens 'tune-up' ran me $150. I think your cost is in line with the work done.

Great work. Images have a very film like quality to them.

I found when I recorded video on the XT1 it ignored any customization's I did to the profiles. If you can get a custom colour profile to work in video, please tell how you did it. Thanks.