Adam Woodhouse

It is great to finally see some video footage out of the X-Pro2. I'm glad they used the camera to do the video. They should do that with all of their camera reviews! That in itself would be part of the review.

I have wanted to add a 35mm (full frame equivalant) fast prime to my kit as I have the 24mm/1.4 and 50mm/1.4 (full frame #'s) ... but can't justify the $ for 1.4 with the two I have ... but if this F2 is priced competitively like the new 50mm/F2 (full frame again) ... I will be tempted! ... sorry .. I always talk full frame numbers with others as it is kind of the universal focal length numbers when we compare our different manufacturer's gear.

I purchased Sugru online to try it as I watched a fellow's vid on doing it on his XT1. It works really well. I put some on my AFL button and the up/down/left/right pad. It is soft like playdough and just a tiny bit does the job. It dries hard as if it was part of a hard rubber piece originally included on the camera. I haven't had the need to take it off yet but I believe it will come off with a bit of work with a fingernail. I don't believe it is permanent when only a little bit is put on a smooth plastic surface like what we want to do on the XT1.

Definitely some hard core pixel peeping there. It makes sense that editing the sharpening of the RAW file in LR can produced a bit more detail versus the camera sharpening algorithms. I think it is normal to get a bit more detail out of a RAW file, regardless of manufacturer. I think many would be curious to see the same image shot at the different sharpening settings on the XPro2 JPG illustrated as you did (100% crop side by side) to see how the sharpening changes the image and then compare that to a base/default value both LR and Capture One show of the same image in RAW. Thanks for sharing.

To answer the original posters question .... no.

I did a test video when I first got my X-T1 ... on a tripod. I posted it online for anyone that may be interested. Video quality is better than what you see in this vid. I cannot figure out how to maintain the original quality of the video when uploaded to YouTube. YouTube always knocks the quality back quite a noticeable amount. That being said ... take a look ->

You are correct in that the camera only does a continuous autofocus when you don't have the camera in manual focus. So you can 1) manual focus or 2) have continual auto focus. I shoot vid with my XT1 from time to time (and have had pretty good results with the right lens and right conditions). If my subject isn't going to move, I prefocus and go to manual focus and then start recording. If I or my subject are going to move, I leave the camera in the Single focus mode that I always use, prefocus and then start recording. Before Firmware 4.0 the autofocus during video had an issue and the camera would constantly change focus as it searched (when it shouldn't). So manual focus was the only way to really use it. With Firmware 4.0, it has gotten to be usable, but still could be better as it isn't quick or rock solid. I don't mind it not being quick, but it does need to be more solid (lock on a subject and stay locked). With lots of practice you can get around the limitations and produce some good stuff. I hope all aspects of the video recording on the XPro2 are better to help take this less used, but great to have feature in the right direction. Something I should point out that many other camera manufacturers don't do ... but fuji does ... which is a huge win for them but everyone glosses over. When you use a lens that has IS ... the IS works while you shoot video ... like a true video camera! My old Nikon gear did not do that. No IS in the Nikon SLR's when shooting video ... so any video work where I zoomed past 100mm I had to use a tripod. Hand holding and zooming with the Fuji and having the IS running is really nice.

I have been using the the past year (lots of paid work) the Nikon mount version of the Yongnou (2 strobes) and their Tx unit that sits on the camera to fire them. This is manual mode, not TTL ... but the mount option of the Yongnou can be Canon or Nikon. I've had great success with the Nikon mount version. I have read on here that the Canon works fine as well. I have also read that Cactus units are good and maybe the Nikon or Canon mount (as you have to pick one) may not matter like the Yongnou's ... but I'm not sure.

I agree with everything here. My experiences have been the same. It isn't trust worthy when I'm doing paid work, so I'm always worried about it because of repeated problems. But it is small and sits nicely on my XT1. For non-paid work, it does the job fine (if it doesn't fire or I can't get it to work I have time to fidget with it). For manual work, I have a couple of the Yongnou and they are great units. Built tough, always work and with the Tx that sits on the camera I can control the manual and zoom power from my camera from a very far distance. They are 1/3 the price of the iNissin and work much better.

Thanks for sharing. Been an interesting read.

Having worked for a company that had offices in different countries, different time zones and different languages ... what you are saying isn't as simple as you'd think.

I think if a person moves to mirrorless line to reduce bulk/size/weight ... having another brand as a backup means the lenses to support the backup body ... so kind of defeats the point in my mind.

Agreed. I like B&W and the cameras rendition but also find the B&W setting to be a bit flat. Would be nice to have an option to copy a preset such as B&W and customize to make own preset.

The right tool in the right hands can produce some pretty amazing results. my little rant : At my last wedding of 2015 (last month) I had my THIRD Nikon body fail on me (over the past 5 yrs). My primary body/kit is XT1 and with migrating over from Nikon this year, I still had one foot in the Nikon camp because I wanted to work with Fuji for a year and budget limited me having two complete kits. With my D610 failing on me last month (curtain got jammed) and previously have D700 fail (new motherboard needed) and repeated ERR codes on my D3s ... this third camera (D610) was it. When it happened 1hr into this wedding and it being the 3rd time this has happened over 5yrs ... I said 'that's it ... I'm fed up with the Nikon bodies and after winter when I get it repaired, it and my 70-200/2.8 and 50/1.4 Nikon are all GONE! I will replace with another XT1 and 70-200/2.8 Fuji (more or less) .. I already have the 50mm 1.4 Fuji (I talk full frame focal lengths). X-T10 will do the job perfectly fine as long as good weather sealing isn't required. I've never shot range finder and am interested in the XPro-2 ... so I expect I will try to get my hands on it to play with it before I commit to another XT-1.

I have i40 and the auto focus assist does not work on it (using it on XT1). The autofocus assist light on the camera body is what the camera will use if it thinks it needs it. Problem is that little light on the camera sucks. I have found since the latest firmware release on the XT1 and using phase detection ... the autofocus under poor lighting conditions at my wedding receptions have gotten much much better to do. Particually on the dance floor when simply holding the camera up high, using ultra wide lens and just pushing the shutter release. Much much higher percentage of keepers than before latest firmware and using the phase detection.

I have heard this lens makes a constant humming sound, as if the stabalization motor is running constantly. I learned this from a photographer that took it to shoot a wedding (regularly shoots weddings) and he noticed it, so went back to the store and showed them and the store said that it was a normal characterisitc of the lens. He found it very distracting and returned it. Has anyone else here noticed a constant humming coming from the lens when the camea is turned on?

I had to get my Nikon D700 rubber grip fixed @ Nikon service centre TWICE because it was coming off. On my old Nikon D200 it was coming off as well, but just a little so I fixed it myself. But the D700 I had was coming off quite bad and I had to get them to fix it. It happens. I am 8 months of heavy usage with my XT1 and so far so good ....

I have found that by changing the setup so that the EVF and LCD are both off unless I put the camera to my eye or press the rear menu button or play button ... greatly extends the battery life.

I have 2 Nikon mount YN strobes and the one TX that sits on the camera and allows me to adjust zoom and strobe strength. Mount it on my X-T1. All works perfect. I didn't do anything special in the menu to get the YN tx device to trigger the 2 YN strobes when the tx device is mounted on my X-T1.

When viewing images on the rear LCD ... need to see highlight blowouts. All major brands offer this display option. I really miss it on my X-T1.

For casual work, I've found the video to be perfectly fine. For those that are looking for 'broadcast' quality, they are look at the wrong body. Since most fuji owners are not wanting broadcast quality video, its perfectly fine. I have shot video with mine that has been quite good and some that hasn't. I have found the lens makes a difference. Something that no one comments on that is a big win for the Fuji is the image stabalization in the lens keeps working when shooting video. That is excellent. My Nikon's did not do that. VR on the NIkons is disabled when shooting video. I puchased a low cost 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter for my external mic, so the audio is fine (actually the built in mic on the Fuji XT1 does quite well ... but with any wind noise the external mic is needed ... same if using a zoom lens as the moving of the lens will get picked up ... but that's normal for any camera).

A wide angle fast prime is on my wish list. You may suggest all you want. But the pocket book dictates how quickly it will happen.

I usually do the dancing with my wide angle 10-24/F4 The venue I was at this past Sat was a bit darker than others, so I really noticed the cameras repeated failing to autofocus. It would either show the AF! icon or it would focus but not correctly. My past experience was very highly successful autofocus on my Nikon full frame with the red IR autofocus assist on the flash. So it felt like I went from one extreme to another this past Sat and felt this is the wrong setup for dark dances.

My problem was I was shooting exactly the same scene over several seconds. Half the time the light did not come on, half the time it did. It was very annoying and inconsistent during the dancing and my testing at the event when I was taking a break.

I just came to the forum to look up something just like this. At yesterdays wedding I had serious auto focus problems during the dancing. Half the time the auto focus assist lamp built into the X-T1 body worked (came on) and half the time it didn't !!?? I had the iNissin mounted on the body. I find TTL works pretty good in a smaller room with the iNissin mounted on the X-T1 and focusing fine when the lighting is OK. But during the dark dancing there are problems. Anyone else find this or a work around in regards to the built in auto focus assist lamp not coming on half the time?