Adam Woodhouse

This past weekend I had the i40 on my XT1 and set it to manual, very low power (so that it didn't do anything). I had plugged into the XT1 via the wired remote flash trigger plug (on the front of the camera, under the logo) a small trigger that fired my off-camera flash (this is a way to trigger off camera flash (manual flash mode only on the external wireless flash) and not use the hotshoe because the i40 was in the hotshoe. This lets me use 2 flashes at once ... one on the camera (mostly for TTL) and one off camera (preset in manual mode). I like to shoot dances at weddings this way. The on camera i40 is usually TTL and pointed at a wall or ceiling and the other off camera flash is in a corner, pointing at the dance floor. But when I want the on camera flash to not fire I can't turn it off because my off camera flash won't fire either (just the way Fuji does it ... my Nikon didn't work like that). My work-around is to just set the i40 on the camera to manual and very low power so that it does nothing but is still active and makes the camera happy that it should fire the flash. This way my off camera flash still fires. If I want only on camera TTL, I then unplug the little remote trigger that is plugged into the front of the camera, thus disabling my remote flash. This allows me to get creative lighting during the dancing (works really well during the couples first slow dance). I have done this many times and had no problems.

Hi. I gave it a try and had no problems with the i40 mounted on my XT1 and having the i40 set to manual and it firing. I had iso, apeture and shutter all manual set. Mechanical shutter (I never have the camera set to Electronic Shutter as it can cause problems and I've never had a need for it). Don't have camera set to MS+ES because that can cause problems to. Set to MS (Mechanical Shutter) only. Flash mode on camera was set to Flash (standard flash). It stayed in that mode (didn't keep changing to commander or anything like that). I could set the i40 to any manual power and take a pic and the flash would fire fine. At first the flash mode on the camera was set to No Flash and nothing worked (manual or TTL). So I scratched my head and said 'obviously I have something set wrong'. Then realized oops ... LOL.

Sorry, haven't tried shooting the i40 in manual mode while mounted on the XT1. I always shoot it in TTL when mounted on the camera. When off camera flash, I use the Yongnou setup with their Tx device mounted on the XT1 and control the Rx (flash) via manual setup and the settings on the Tx device on the camera. I have found that the i40 won't fire sometimes if I put it on the camera when the camera is on. I have found I have to turn the camera off and mount the i40 then turn the flash and camera on. Then it works. I didn't have to do that with my old Nikon gear so when I had this problem at a wedding it really threw me for a few minutes as I simply did not have flash when I needed it. But turning everything off and connecting the i40 then seems to give great reliability. It certainly is not as powerful or as robust as the Nikon flashes I used on those bodies, so I'm hoping either the i40 replacement or the actual Fuji flash will help close the gap between my experiences with the different brands.

I agree. I shoot quite a bit in portrait mode and have the battery grip on my XT-1's almost all the time. I really hope the focus joystick is on the grip as well.

I'm thinking that is an early test model with the extra large knobs on the top and the absence of a video record button. Products go through a development cycle where there are changes to design and I'm taking a guess this leaked camera won't be exactly the same as the final production model.

Don't come to the forums looking for this advice. Forums are notorious for people flocking to them to bitch about the product due to some issue (which is understandable). But for 1000 that work OK, the couple that don't will be on the forum complaining, which gives the appearance that most are having the same issue. Follow another forum for another digital product and you'll see people complaining all over. It is something about forums. People turn to them when they have a problem, so they are ripe with problems. Buy your product from a reputable dealer and review their support and product warranty so that should you be among the minority, you know what to do. .... just my 2 cents on approx 20 years of following forums on products that interest me (cars, model aircraft, computer hardware, TV, camera, etc). In general, I have found this forum to be very good. Nice people that want to help.

I have a tin I'm saving my cash in so come the release, I'm all over it. Looking forward to adding it to my kit.

Before I recently jumped to Fuji I had 3 different Nikon full frame bodies die at weddings over a 4 year period. Yes it is very stressful and why it is mandatory to have more than 1 body for shoots that cannot be rescheduled. When it happened the 3rd time, that is when I said good buy to Nikon. Their support centre was very good (I had NPS membership) but almost $2K in repairs for cameras with low actuations and not long out of warranty was just too much.

It will happen in time, just be patient. You are one of the first adopters of their new sensor/processor ... so there are going to be glitches (regretfully). Hopefully they are worked out quickly.

I have 3Mbits internet connection due to living in a rural area with old phone lines (only DSL is an option). I have Adobe Cloud subscription and as much as I don't like paying the $10+ a month ... it isn't much and it is very convenient knowing I always have an up-to-date product to use. This goes for Lightroom and Photoshop. I don't save my images online, they are all local. The only time my computer needs an internet connection for using the Adobe products is to do an update. If it is a patch, it happens quickly. If it is a full download, I simply tell the Adobe app that runs in my toolbar to do it manually ... and I kick it off before I go to bed. Works great.

Ya ... what you did was normal shooting and you certainly should not have had an overheat problem. I wonder if it is the unit you have as this doesn't seem to be a rampant issue from what I've seen over the past week of casual web surfing on the topic of XP2. I had a Nikon SB900 flash and it was pron to overheating quickly, resulting it putting itself into a sleep mode until it cooled. It reached an overheated state way to quickly and people were complaining quite a bit online (and it caused me problems quickly when working a wedding). Nikon quickly released the SB910 with a fix (like the quick Nikon D610 fix after the D600 fiasco). I quickly learned that on the SB900 I could disable the auto-off feature if the flash was overheating. I turned it off and for the next 2+ years I had that flash and I worked it hard and never had an issue even though the LCD indicated an overheat.

What were you doing at the time that caused the excess heat? I could see this happening if shooting video for over 10 min or having the camera on a tripod and shooting an image every second for a couple hours to stitch together in a video.

I believe in the manual it says to use a white card, not a grey card for custom white balance. But I could be mistaken.

I get the impression if there were still problems with many owners then this thread would be buzzing or another would have been created. I have noticed a bit of silence since the firmware was released, which I interpret as 'no news is good news' (at least for the majority).

Before I jumped to Fuji I shot full time with Nikon. Over 5yrs I had 3 of their full frame bodies fail on me, all not long after warranty. D700 had an electrical fail 30min into a wedding and it was dead. Used my 2nd body and all was OK for that client. Then my D3s got an ERR code and locked up (at more than 1 wedding). TWO trips to Nikon and $900 later ... still had the problem!! Then my D610 curtain jammed (1hr into another wedding). Used my Fuji for that entire wedding as at that time my kit was 1/2 Nikon and 1/2 Fuji. Over 5yrs, and close to $2000 in repairs, I then said enough is enough. In all cases the camera bodies showed no signs of abuse (because they were my primary tools for my business I took good care of them). And in all cases the actuations on each camera were not over 70k. What's my point? .... it happens everywhere.

It is clear why there are so many lens choices already available. Almost everyone has their own unique requirements or goals.

I have found that I can get pretty good battery life by turning off the auto playback when I take a photo as well as have both LCD and EVF turned off unless my eye is at the EVF. This way neither LCD is on unless I have the camera to my eye, or I press a button to view menu/playback image on rear LCD. This helps quite a bit with battery life.

I own both. Both focus well and are very sharp. I shoot weddings and a bit of real estate (private and business properties). I use the 10-24mm all the time because I like the extra wide angle for places where I simply cannot back up any further and going wider than 24mm (full frame) really helps. The IS in this lens is very good as I shoot non-moving subjects at 1/8 second easily. But being F4, lighting needs to be fair. I really like that in one lens I can go ultra wide for when needed, but then zoom in to the 35mm full frame equivalent for a great, general use focal length. Since the lens is only F4 and not weather sealed, it is pretty light. I use the 16mm only at weddings when the lighting is poor and I want to keep the atmosphere. So I usually shoot it at 1.4. During those ceremony/reception times this lens is excellent to have in the bag. Because I like to jump from ultra wide to 35mm (in full frame equivalent) regularly, I found this lens to be more versitile and more my go-to lens. Where I have personally found the 16mm to be a specialty lens that I use less, but really glad to have it when I need it. I got my 10-24mm off Kijiji for a great price. They seem to be on their from time to time and you may find you can save a few hundred $ going that route for that lens.

I have found my iNissin to be quite unpredictable in TTL on my X-T1. So much that I'd consider it crap compared to my past Nikon body/flash combo history. But until Fuji releases its own (hopefully this spring), I have had to make due. What I have found helped (as sometimes mine would not fire in TTL when mounted on the camera) is I mount the iNissin on my camera when both the flash and camera are turned off. I then turn on the iNissin, then turn on the X-T1. I have found doing that (versus attaching the iNissin when the camera is already on) has helped increase the chances the iNissin will work.

RAW files first open in Camera Raw. From there you bring them into Photoshop. When in Photoshop, and you want to open an image via File -> Open ... and you select a RAF file ... Photoshop will open Camera Raw. But for Camera Raw to support the RAW file you are opening, Camera Raw has to support it. If your Camera Raw is out-of-date, it won't know what to do with the raw file (for Fuji, it is a RAF file). You may just need to update your Camera Raw (google how to do this). If you are out-of-luck and Adobe no longer updates your version of Camera Raw, then you are out of luck. I'm not sure how far back Adobe is going when they update Camera Raw. I have the monthly subscription, so my Camera Raw, Photoshop and Lightroom all stay up-to-date automatically. Paying approx $120/year isn't something that I get excited about, but it sure is convenient having the software update itself and knowing it is always current.

I think the word "conversion" is used here to simply mean the processing of a RAF file into a JPG.

Lots of good info here Joy. Has it helped at all? Another reference that may help is ->

When I use to shoot two different Nikon full frame cameras at once (as each had a different lens), sometimes the exact same settings on both cameras could not be done because one rendered the image a little darker than the other. At the time I thought it was because the different lens let in a different amount of light, even though their aperture value was the same. I really didn't think much of it as the goal was to set the correct setting for the camera/lens combo I was using at the time to get a proper result. If one needed a half stop different setting than the other ... so be it. Does Fuji 'cheat' in regards to their ISO values in comparison to exposure results and camera settings when compared to others .... maybe. But I'm sure they would argue that their exposure metering is unique to them and comparing against another manufacturer is comparing 'apples to oranges'. In the end most don't care ... they set the camera to what i needs to be set to and focus on capturing memorable images.

Sure. Process ... colour profiler ... sweet sauce. Technical mumbo jumbo. Point is ... it needs to be set when importing RAF or much more work needs to be done to the images ... and if this isn't known, one will assume that Lightroom renders RAF files poorly upon default import. Thanks for clarifying though.

One thing that no one seems to ever mention when working with RAF files in Lightroom is you must set the correct Process type either when you import (as a preset) or after you import. By default, Lightroom will set the RAF process to be Adobe's implementation of file rendering. You must change it to a Fuji "process" or you won't be happy. The default Adobe looks horrible with RAF files and people will complain that Lightroom sucks for RAF files when they aren't using it right. When you change the Process to a Fuji Processs, the image will look great and you can tweak. I created a preset and when I import a wedding I apply the preset during the import. It's pretty slick doing it that way. My preset (which is simply my own preferences) is a little bump to the whites, a little bump to the shadows, a change to the sharpen value to approx 50 from its default (which I think is around 20) ... and a change to the RAW Process from Adobe to Fuji Provia. If you don't know where you change the RAW Process, it is on the LIBRARY tab, bottom right ... below Keyword and Metadata ... under CAMERA CALIBRATION., Change the Process there.