Adam Woodhouse

Personally I would take it to (or ship it off) local Fuji service centre. Me being in Ontario, Canada I'm fortunate that there is a Fuji service centre 1.5hrs from my home so I could drive it there and talk to them if needed. But that is what the service centre is for. Get them to fix it right and go back out shooting! Best of luck.

Agree with Dis. I have shot weddings for years with Nikon but now shoot 50% X-T1 and 50% Nikon D610. Haven't fully migrated due to video requirements and $$ to swap all of my fast glass. I expect next year I'll be 100% Fuji. LARGE learning curve coming from SLR to Fuji X-T1. Very different cameras. I shot with my X-T1 a fair bit before taking it to my first wedding. It's focusing was quite good, not as strong as my previous D3s ... but good enough. I knew from others that had switched to it for weddings that the common theme others were saying was "it forces you to slow down". That was exactly true and I knew that going into my first wedding with it on my hip. For very rushed photojournalistic style of shooting (a small part of my wedding day), it can be a bit slow to change settings (when shooting manual which I mostly do), but other than that ... it has been a pretty good experience once the learning curve is behind you.

Another shot, but this one not staged. Indoor arena of my son taking a shot on net. Lighting in this arena sucks, so fast glass and pushing the ISO is needed for still. Video isn't a problem in the lighting as 1/30 or 1/60 shutter speed is easy ... but not 1/500 !

Been shooting weddings since spring of 2007. Started with Nikon crop sensor (D80, D200, D300). Then upgraded to full frame with D700 and D3s. Then needed to start adding video as an option to my weddings so replaced D700 with D610 when it came out (as the video out of D3s was quite poor, but worked in a pinch). Always fustrated with weight and size of gear with my weddings as they typically are 8-11hrs. Jan 2015 I sold off my Nikon D3s and Nikon ultra wide lens and Nikon general use 28-300mm and one of my SB flashes. Then purchased X-T1 and ultra wide lens and general use 28-200mm (approx) and Nissin i40. Have since purchased the 35/1.4 Fuji as it was on sale at a good price this spring. I still have my D610 and Nikon 50/1.4 and Nikon 70-200/2.8. I have an off-brand of manual wireless triggers for my flashes which have worked excellent the past 5 yrs I've had them. I still have the odd wedding where they have added into their package me shooting video. They are misc video snippets throughout the day and dedicated tipod setup with D610 to do all the speeches (with external mic). I'm a one man show and can do it fine they just understand I'm not doing video of the entire ceremony, just snippets as I work. The results have been many happy clients as I blend the stills and video snippets into an HD slideshow (using ProShow Producer) animated to their music selection (they provide the mp3's). But with X-T1 video with no autofocus (at least thus far) on the X-T1 I've had to keep my D610. I'm getting better with the video on my X-T1 (learning its quirks) but no being able to autofocus while shooting video is a bitch so I'm hoping FW 4.0 helps a bit. But I would love the ability to use single point autofocus in video just like in stills (which I do on the D610 which makes it conveninet to shoot video with autofocus .... I press the AF-L button and the camera refocuses on the single point ... while shooting video ... which is great). In time I hope to unload the rest of my Nikon to continue to lighten my bag. I expect it won't be till X-T2 is released. Bag consists of : Fuji X-T1 Fuji 10-24/F4 Fuji 35/1.4 Fuji 18-135/variable Nikon D610 Nikon 50/1.4 Nikon 70-200/2.8 Nikon SB900 Nissin i40 Younguo 560-III Off-brand manual wireless triggers (2 receivers) Small portable light stand attached to the side of my LowePro roller bag (awesome bag to carry all my stuff but the thing empty weights 10lbs!!). It is a bit too heavy and I hope to decrease its size to smaller model once 100% Fuji. I have since it came out and it was endorsed by David Beckstead .... used the Spyder camera holster. I'm on my 2nd one as I wore the first one out! I think that is it ....

I have printed a nice sharp image that was approx 8 - 10 megapixel as a 2ft x 3ft stretched canvas. I have a few of them from yester-year. They all look excellent. Canvas is a more forgiving medium to print on. Remember, viewing distance (optimal) is at least 2x the vertical size of the print. Its ok for an image to not be perfectly sharp or noise free ... it is the subject matter that people will notice and the large 'wow factor' from it being nice and big. Only you will be the one to notice and give a care about the technical details. People can print larger than they think from just listening to others on the web. I have found from experience that I can print twice as large as what a print shop recommends and still be quite happy with the results. What people don't realize is the image needs to be pre-sharpened before printing and the pre-sharpening needs to be stronger than they would think it should be. It may look oversharpened on your screen, but it will print great. Your screen and print material (paper, canvas, metal, etc) show the image different, so if it looks oversharpened on the screen, it will probably be just right for print. But trial and error and experimenting is without a doubt the best approach. Have fun!

Right light ... right setup ... right lens ... right timing. Camera is fine for sports. Not the same as my old Nikon D3s ... but at 1/2 the weight and 1/4 the price ... I'm pretty happy.

This image isn't anything exciting but I share it because I captured it using a 1980's Tamron 200-500mm constant F5.6 beast with a lens adapter (Nikon mount). Shot in my backyard, using a monopod (which wasn't good enough, I should have used a tripod). This is the beast -> http://www.adaptall-2.org/lenses/31A.html Had lens zoomed in almost 100%, so a 35mm equivalent of approx 700mm. This lens creates pretty poor images but is usable with the focus peeking and considerable processing afterwards. What needs to be done afterwards on post is considerable contrast and blacks adjustments and major moire removal. But once all that heavy lifting is done, images aren't half bad for a $75 purchase on Kijiji !!

yes, I know that well. i just didn't have the tool with me at the time and pushed the shutter as low as I could with low ISO, just was very surprised there was no RAW file on the SD card.

In this case I needed the slowest shutter speed I could pull off for the water fountain I was shooting. But ya, I will normall push the edit by at least 1 stop but that wasn't going to be the case for this one!

I would really like to see a preview option that shows highlight blowouts (clipping) when reviewing a photo. I used that a lot on my SLR and miss having it on the X-T1. Also a good flash. I use the iNissin on my X-T1 and it gets me by ... but it is unreliable at times and it is a bit to delicate. A robust, ready to work flash (something around the size of the Nikon SB700 would be nice) for the Fuji bodies would be nice to see (with TTL support obviously). Most don't shoot wireless TTL but if it has that, that would be a nice perk.

It was a first for me. I wonder why that would be the case? It is similar to the shooting video ISO ... the camera cannot be set below ISO 400 when shooting video. What's with that!?

Hello Forum! I did a shoot yesterday and a first happened to me in regards to missing files on the SD card. I shoot JPG+RAW and import all RAW files into Lightroom as I like working with the RAW files and pushing them sometimes. Anyhow ... 3 of my images were missing. I went back to my SD card and 3 of the images I shot did not have the RAW file!! The JPG was there but the RAW was missing. Now ... what differed in these 3 images is the camera aperture, ISO and shutter speed. Because it was bright outside and I wanted longer exposure (and didn't have ND filter with me) I set camera to 1/20 F22 and ISO to "L". This was the first time I pushed ISO below 200. I'm guessing that by pushing the ISO to 100 (at least I think that is what L gives) the camera does not record RAW file!? Thanks for any wisdom.

Thank you for the reply x-tc but I don't believe that is the correct setting for me question. That will improve auto focus when in continuous focusing mode. I'm always in single focusing mode and already had that option set in the menu. For some reason autofocus speed differs (when in single mode) between the shutter release button and the AF-L.

Anyone know why (or how to correct) the huge difference in autofocus speed between the ultra-fast shutter button and the sluggish AF-L button? I like to use the AF-L to lock focus and then take images when my subject isn't moving (so I use it quite a bit in the type of photography I do). But the difference in speed (I almost always use single point autofocus) is massive between the AF-L and shutter button. If this is a known feature that is going to be 'corrected' in the FW 4.0 then awesome. But if not ... it would be nice to bring it to the attention of Fuji. Thanks!

Being an X-T1 one owner I'd be quite excited about an X-T2.

Snowy Owl captured in central Ontario, Canada in the middle of the winter.

Hi. Should the new forum have a Buy & Sell section? That's pretty common on community forums. I'm not sure if this forum software supports it or not, but allowing others to leave comments on a user profile and/or a score/star rating helps to build good reputation for the Buy & Sell pieces. Great website and thanks for your work! Adam