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  1. Hi everyone, I recently switched from Sony to Fuji and I love it. The issue I'm having is I am unable to setup my SmallHD 502 monitor to connect to my X-T2. I was wondering if anyone else had an issue. I tried different cables, made sure all the firmware are up to date but still no success. I just get a message No Signal. I know that Atomos works but it is a 7inch monitor and I don't need the recording part yet... This is a 5inch monitor with Vectorscope, Peaking, Waveforms and LUT support.. I contacted SmallHD but got a simple not supported answer, which a bit disappointing: From: Tiffany L Brantner Sent: 11/26/2016 Subject: Fuji X-T2 and SmallHD 502 Thomasz, We have heard from maybe 2 other people having the same issue. Until we can test the configuration, we cannot confirm it. But, at this point it seems that the monitor is not compatible with your camera. Thanks, Tiffany Brantner SmallHD Customer Support and Sales 919-502-7125 (direct line) 919-439-2166 (main line: I was wondering if anyone had success with this monitor and X-T2? thank you Tom
  2. From the album: Trip to Chiapas and México City.

    Cantina girl print from photo taken with X-T2. Yajalón, Chiapas.

    © Carlos San Miguel

  3. From the album: Trip to Chiapas and México City.

    Print from X-T2 photo

    © Carlos San Miguel

  4. Any idea when we might start seeing this in stores? I'm tired of holding my breath.
  5. Everyone, I am blown away with the tracking capability of new Sony a6300. As always fuji camera's are really bad in Video although reports are saying X-Pro2 has improved video capability. Do you see if Fuji would come up with new tracking system such as a6300?
  6. Hello out there, my name is René van der Voorden, and I´m a professional concert photographer. I love shooting concert since about 35 years. Last year I sold my 20.000 € Nikon equipment with Nikon D3s and a lot of expensive glasses. It was not an easy step, but at least I´ve done it. From last year on the Fujifilm X-T1 is my new tool for this work. The High-ISO performance on the D3S is still a little bit better, but there are more advantages for me with the X-T1. The most important advantages for me: 1. Mirrorless. I see the result before I shoot. I can see everything through the amazing Viewfinder. Not necessary to take your eye from the Viewfinder to playback taken photos. 2. Noiseless. Some concerts are very quit (Classic, Musical, Jazz). I hate my Nikon D3S gun in this belongings and love my new quit tool. Sometimes it was not possible to shoot with Nikon because of the shutter-mirror-noise. 3. High ISO performance. Is good, but could be 2-3 stops better. On most concerts the light situation is very very bad. That could be improved. Because of my style of developing my photos with hard contrasts and pushing the shadows (and sometimes blacks), high ISO performance is even more important. 4. Tilting LCD is very handy for shoots from the FOH with audience in front. With my Nikon I was not able to compose a over-me-head shoot. A shame, that the X-Pro2 doesn´t have this handy feature, 5. Understatement. You´ll not be noticed as a professional photographer. I like that. 6. Size. No more words necessary. 7. Weight. My Nikon stuff was much to heavy to carry over long distances. 8. Feel. The X-T1 feels perfect. I love to have those manual dials to have quick access on the most important settings. 9. Viewfinder. The High-Res and magnification and the very small lag time is perfect for my work. 10. AF is quick enough. The accuracy is better than on my Nikon D3S. 11. Less rejects because of above mentioned. I can now concentrate on finding the perfect situation for my shoots. My work; Portfolio: http://www.van-der-voorden.com/portfolio/ Facebook: www.facebook.com/van.der.Voorden.Photography @Fujifilm: I would be very interested in testing (and giving feedback) the upcoming X-T2 for concert photography purposes. Please do not hesitate to contact me :-) Many greetings René van der Voorden
  7. I recently joined Fuji X Forum for the following excellent and worthwhile reasons To checkout that Complete Overview of Lenses that was posted by quincy. To find out your views concerning the processing of Fuji X images, what do people use - Iridient or Adobe Camera Raw or something else, from reports I have seen I would go for Iridient, but I no longer have Macs, so what is good? To find out if it is worthwhile waiting for the X-T2. I had an X-T1 it had a fault, my dealer returned my money as opposed to sending it back to Fuji. I still have a 55-200mm lens, the large hand grip, battery, remote control, case, stuff etc.. It took me three months to settle on X-T1 and it still tops my list, so waiting is OK but for how long...
  8. I've got to say that whilst I like the new sensor in the X-Pro2, that's about all I really like about it. Now, I may change my mind but I think I'd prefer an X-T2. What features do you think the X-T2 should have, apart from the new 24mp sensor? My personal favourites would be for IBIS (yes, I know I keep banging on about this!), twin SD card slots and a lockable dioptre change knob (I keep catching this when putting my X-T1 in and out of me bag). I wouldn't mind if it came with the battery grip made into an integral part of the design (similar to Canon and Nikon Pro cameras). I'd be happy to road test it on some of my future jobs if Fuji are listening! So what features do you people think should be on an X-T2?
  9. I have become interested in the X-T1. I have read all about it, studied all available tests and specs and decided that this is what I want to have. But the other day I discovered rumors of the X-T2 to come in June or July 2016. If this is true, should I then buy the X-T1 now and some lenses, or wait until the new X-T2 arrives here in Sweden (maybe later in the autumn)? If bying X-T1 now, I may loose some Money upgrading to X-T2. The new model will probably be more expensive, or what do you think? Some pieces of god advice much appreciated.
  10. As the title says, I've noticed that my Battery Grip is not tightening as firmly to my XT-2 as initially. I noticed that there is some play in the Lock Screw that goes into the X-T2's collar mount. I haven't noticed any performance issues, but I use the grip when it's on a tripod and want to eliminate any vibration issues when doing Long Exposures. Has anyone else experienced this issue and if so was there a fix for it?
  11. Hi Fuji users, I've been having an issue with my X-T2 for about 6 months now. A week after purchasing the camera brand new, the speaker had stopped working. No AF sounds, ES sounds, or sound from video playback. Yesterday, the sound came back for one minute for the first time in 6 months, but it went back to no sound quickly after. I've turned the sound settings on and off, updated to latest firmware, and still no success. The camera has not taken any damage that would cause this issue. Does anyone have suggestions or advice to get sound working again? I really don't want to have the camera serviced especially since I'm in India with warranty for Japan. Thanks!
  12. I took my X-T2 out during my lunch break for some canids in Spitalfields Market, London. I shot in ACROS film simulation mode. http://www.mostly.photos/blog/2017/12/2/fuji-x-t2-acros-spitalfields-market
  13. Well my friends I went and done it! Some of you guys who have been here a while may recall my daughter "borrowed" my X-T1 and my "don't leave home without it lens" the Fuji 18-55. For the last several months I've been photographing using my primes only -- the fabulous 16 f1.4, the 23 1.4, 35 1.4, and 60 2.4 plus the 55-200 zoom. And I loved doing that. I've truly enjoyed making images as I have to be slower, and more thoughtful in the process plus, let's face reality, the primes will always beat a zoom with regards to sharpness, and micro-contrast among other things. However, the 18-55 is a lens I cannot live without! I love it. There I said it. If I loved it any more I'd have to name it and provide it it's own ss number for tax purposes. I do plan on continuing to use primes for most of my images as I really enjoyed using them and have weened myself off the zoom, but I will feel much better knowing my 18-55 is back in my bag just in case I need it! To be completely honest: I looked at the 16-55 2.8. Many of you who "know me" know that I've said I would never purchase this lens, and it's brother the 50-140 2.8 due to 1) the weight and 2) price. I looked at the 16-55 2.8, i thought about it, but I just couldn't bring myself to purchase this heavy, and expensive lens when for a quarter of the price my 18-55 works wonders, is super tack sharp, and has provided me with YEARS of use -- my original 18-55 was the kit lens that came on my Fuji X-E1 I purchased back in February 2013! This image below is one of over 16,000 images I have taken in various locations ranging from Key West, to Prince Edward Island in Northern Canada between mid-July, and early November. I believe I "lost" the 18-55 to my daughter when I returned from the Keys and was prepping to head north -- this image was in fact taken with the 18-55 lens. So, I'm now whole again and I couldn't be happier knowing it's there in case I need it. PS: Here in the Classifieds I'm offering for sale my Zeiss/Touit 12mm F2.8 lens. Check it out if you are in the market for a wide-angle for your Fuji!
  14. My powerful workstation laptop (Lenovo Thinkpad W540) with an i7 processor and 32 gigs of RAM on W10 struggles HARD with my RAF files from my X-T2. Every adjustment lags, and even scrolling down my photos in the Library module is choppy. Hard quick adjustments like spot healing skin or masking adjustments takes multiple seconds per click to see my adjustment show up on the preview, no matter what I do. I've got a 40GB cache, I've turned GPU processing on, and back off, to see if it makes a difference (it doesn't) and nothing I've done seems to make any difference. My drive has 40% free space, I only have about 6000 photos in my catalog, and I back-up and Optimize regularly. In hunting for solutions, I found someone suggesting that I could import all of my photos to a fast external drive, render Smart Previews, then disconnect the drive, and work exclusively with the smart previews, which are supposedly smaller, lighter, and faster to work with, and then when I'm done, re-connect the drive, apply the changes, and export/work in Photoshop from there. Wondering if anyone has any better tips for speeding up Lightroom when working with RAF files, or if anyone has tried the Smart Preview method described above to tell me whether it provides any advantages?
  15. hi, It seems that my new XT2 camera does not recognize the flash ef-X8 I tried all the suggestions in the forum: turn off the exposure preh hutter ​is manual​s​ not in silent mode can not change the "off" to "TTL" What shell i Do?
  16. My X-T2 doesn´t switch to release priority anymore. It is stuck in focus priority even though release priority is selected. The latest firmware is installed (also on the lens(es)) It happens in all focus modes and with different lenses. I remember that it worked once to switch between the two modes. Unfortunately I only now realized that it doesn´t switch anymore thus I cannot determine if a FW update or whatever created this problem... Anyone else with the same problem? I only find threads on the internet without any answers. I also tried to get an answer from Fujifilm support, but they haven´t replied.
  17. I recently added the excellent Fuji 23mm f2 to my collection of Fuji Primes. I have put some quick shots taken using the X-T2 and ACROS simulation on my blog... (Click Bait ) Chris
  18. First, a comparison between X-Transformer's rendering, and straight Lightroom. Settings are exactly the same between the two images. I've always struggled with the weird rendering of detail that I get with my RAF files in Lightroom. I've tried a few different processors to get my fine detail, but they either don't do much to solve the problem (Capture1) or are incredibly cumbersome to use (Photo Ninja) or are not available to me on Windows (Iridient) I recently found X-Transformer (By Iridient) and found that it works more or less perfectly, and lets me keep my Lightroom workflow, so I thought I would share my process for anyone else interested or struggling with the same issues I was. THE METHOD I'm on Windows 10, using Lightroom CC I went and got X-Transformer by Iridient I then set it up to work as a plugin for Lightroom CC Then, in Lightroom, once you find the files you want to work with and get your detail out of, you just choose to edit them in X-Transformer And then put in these settings which strip out the horrible noise reduction and sharpening, and demosaic the data much better than Lightroom. Then, once it's done running through X-Transformer, your image is back in Lightroom as a TIFF that you can treat exactly like your RAF files, except it's got fine detail in it. It's the least cumbersome method I've found so far that gets really really good detail out of your shots, without forcing you to learn a crazy new half-broken editing software. The other program I found that gets this level of detail is Photo Ninja, but it is really difficult to work with, and feels almost like an Alpha for the first version of Lightroom. I don't advise it. Many photographers won't care about the improvement, and that's fine. Fine detail doesn't make or break a photo if the rest of the content/light/processing is good. But for those that want their full 24 megapixels worth of data, this is a great solution without having to give up Lightroom. Disclaimer: I haven't used the brand new CaptureOne which supposedly does very well with RAF files. Links to two full res comparison photos
  19. From my recent trip to Lisbon with the X-T2 & 10-24 /16-55 DSCF7226-2 DSCF6984 DSCF7039 DSCF6732 DSCF6721
  20. Toronto, Ontario Fuji X-T2 + XF10-24 Night Lights by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Night Trains by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Toronto Financial District by Matthew Perry, on Flickr
  21. I shot the live show with Old Dominion and Kira Isabella on Friday night, these are with the X-T2 + XF50-140, quite impressed myself after switching from Canon 5D3 + L-Glass. "Said Nobody Ever" by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Old Dominion by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Kira Isabella by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Kira Isabella by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Old Dominion by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Kira Isabella by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Old Dominion by Matthew Perry, on Flickr
  22. I shot the live show with Old Dominion and Kira Isabella on Friday night, these are with the X-T2 + XF50-140, quite impressed myself after switching from Canon 5D3 + L-Glass. "Said Nobody Ever" by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Old Dominion by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Kira Isabella by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Kira Isabella by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Old Dominion by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Kira Isabella by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Old Dominion by Matthew Perry, on Flickr
  23. The 55-200 is my least thought of lens. Sitting in the bottom of my bag of lenses I really only bring it out when I go to the mortocross track. There I basically beat the crap out of it, letting it get dusty, wet, using my sleeve to wipe of the dust... and everytime I walk away amazed at the quality of the images! Mind you, in insufficient light, it's another story but when light isn't a problem this lens is fantastic, especially at the price! Here are some pics of a Red Bull Rocks and Logs event this weekend. Ideally, you want to have the rider coming at you but unfortunately due to the limited access for spectators we were unable to see them coming for the good parts!
  24. Hello Everyone, I am having a bit of a dilemma that I was hoping the good people here could help me out with. I currently have an X-T1 along with the following lenses: 18–135, 55-200 and 35mm f2. I just had my first kid three months ago and am thoroughly enjoying capturing him. I am however having a hard time getting good (focused) shots as he is starting to move a lot. I'm mostly shooting in the zoned AF mode with either single or continuous focus with the drive mode set to both single and high speed burst. ISO is set to auto. With the 18–135 there are hardly any keepers as it is a pretty slow lens. I get more keepers with the 35 but feel very limited with the focal length. So here is what I have been debating: Get the 23mm f2 - I loved the focal length when I had borrowed the X-100t Get the 16-55 - Nice range thats good for street and landscape and covers the 23mm focal length at a decent speed Get 90mm f2 - Good fast portrait lens Get a used X-100t - I get the focal length I want and an additional camera that I can take with me without having to worry about lenses now that I need to travel light (baby stuff) Get the X-T2 - Faster focusing, better low-light, new processor I am only a hobbyist who is looking to the experts out there to help me figure this out. Please be kind and helpful. Thanks in advance.
  25. I recently had the opportunity to visit a remote South facing beach in Wales, UK - I thought I'd try and capture the Milky Way with my X-T2 and 16mm f1.4 I wrote a brief article with further images and information on how I took the shot
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