Adam Woodhouse

Make sure the little lever that is next to the shutter button on the grip isn't in the LOCK position. You can't take a pic with the shutter button on the vertical grip (I believe) if it is in the LOCK position.

The point about the histogram is a good one. If the histogram changes when going from horizontal to vertical orientation, your AE will most likely change. I have experienced the same thing, but I know that when going from horizontal to vertical, the image in the view finder is not 100% the same, so naturally AE changes (sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse) ... just depends on what is in the metering area.

May have been that batch. I have X500 flash (got it mid December) and it does not suffer from that issue. I have found it to be a well built product.

Hmmmm .. this seems a bit confusing. I shoot with XT1 and XT2 at the same time when I'm at my weddings (#1 reason I do photography) and I have the AFL working the same way on both cameras. When I press the AFL button, it acquires focus (I use AF-S for single point) and it holds/locks focus as long as I hold the button. When I release the button the focus lock ends. This lets me (on both cameras), lock the focus and lock it while I recompose or wait for the moment to happen. Then I press the shutter button and I have instant photo (and a notably quicker capture on the XT2 versus the XT1).

Having shot several weddings while using both XT1 and XT2 at the same time, the differences (all be it small) are pretty obvious when I'm bouncing back and forth. The faster performance of the XT2 was immediately noticable for me at the first wedding I took my XT2 to. The faster response of the shutter button first grabbed me. The XT1 seems a bit slow now. On paper it may be a small amount, but I immediately noticed it. I only ever use single point autofocus so I didn't notice too much of a speed increase on the XT2, however love the focus joystick to move my focus point around. Dual SD slots are very good for peace of mind. I have XT2 slot 2 setup to backup slot 1. I've never had an SD card failure yet, but knowing there is a backup happening as I shoot images I cannot shoot again ... it is a great peace of mind. I find the Velvia processing of the XT2 to be better than the XT1. The XT1 over saturates a bit and is noticeable if used on people when they are shot close up. The XT2 Velvia is really nice for everything. I do shoot video at the odd wedding (if they include it in their package) and the video from the XT2 is excellent. I'm really happy with the quality. In my experiences over the years we cannot simply compare a 16MP image to a 24MP image when comparing noise (which seems to be a big concern for some). Take the 24MP image and resize it to 16MP and then compare 16 to 16. I expect in that case the XT2 will match XT1 and in some cases exceed it. This is something I learned and help me have a bit of perspective when I migrated from 10MP through 24MP Nikon cameras previously in my photography career. When I compared D3s 12MP image to D610 24MP images ... the 24MP had more detail at base ISO, but once the ISO started to go up 24MP had more noise. (Research the details on the 36MP D810 and you'll see the noise complaints of those that go a few stops above base.) But when I saved the higher ISO 24MP as 12MP and compared ... I got a better one-for-one comparison and saw the win for the 24MP source. Don't know if that will help OP or not ... ?

I wish for the extra $ that it had something a little different than the colour and a different strap. Then it would be worth the extra $ for more of us. It is a beauty to look at though.

I think you can change the way the AFL works in the menu. Look it up in the manual and try the different settings.

Last wedding I had the XT2 on a tripod to video the speeches. Fathers speech was 25min. Camera was set to 1080p/30fps. Camera was barely warm after that. Also shot the other speeches but they were a more reasonable length (5 - 10 min). When the speeches were done (there were breaks between speeches), I had shot over an hour of video (over a 90 - 120 min period) and camera was fine. Zero temp concerns.

I've had great success with Watson batteries from B&H Photo. Been using them 2 yrs now.

Sorry, haven't noticed that with mine. But honestly ... I haven't paid close attention to the battery level when I put the camera in the bag and then compare to when I take it out again. But it does make me curious and I'll try to do it when I think of it. It may be good practice to try to get in the routine of taking the batteries out of the grip when you put the camera back in the bag (knowing it is going to be a little while before using the camera again). This way you reduce the risk of a battery going bad and leaking in the grip. It may be very rare, but a battery can easily become faulty all-of-a-sudden. I try to take them out of my cameras when I think of it and leave them on my shelf. Since I have two chargers, I usually put two batteries in the chargers and leave them there. The charger will turn off when the batteries reach 100% anyways, so when I want the camera I throw the batteries in the grip and they are always at 100% from sitting in the chargers. Should a battery go bad and leak, it will happen on the charger which is cheap to replace. I realize that different battery types have different characteristics, but having dealt with leaking NiCad and NiMH and 12v high capacity marine batteries and experience with LiPo battery charging and their potential to burst into flames when charging ... I've learned a thing or two about being a little cautious. I know the Li-ion are very stable hence used in our electronics, but the recent Samsung smartphone battery debacle shows it can happen. A side note ... I have found that if I fully charge a Fuji battery and a Watson battery and leave them on my desk for one week ... then put them on the charger, the Fuji will be back to 100% charge in a couple of minutes, where the Watson may take approx 10 minutes. But when both types are fully charged and I use the camera for a full day, I don't notice much of a difference in their lasting power. They have been a great low cost battery for me over the past 2 years in my XT1's and XT2.

I have found my XT1 and XT2 auto white balance to be better than the Nikon full frame cameras I use to shoot with.

Ya, this is a valid question that seems to hit the forums every now and again. To use the still camera as a video camera (say record a concert that is 60min long) ... it's the wrong tool. A proper video camera is required. But to use the still camera as a video camera ... it works great, just have to work with its limits. I've done that a couple of times. For example, during a pause in the show do a quick stop and start recording to reset the 30min limit. Of course it requires minor work in post to put back together, but it's a work around.

I don't know if would make any difference or not, but if you aren't running latest firmware on the body, make sure to update. If you are, see if you can reinstall it. Otherwise, sounds like a problem and will need to be brought in for servicing if you find it to be a problem. Otherwise, it's just an odd quirk.

On my XT2, when I set the mode dial to bracketing and press and hold the shutter release, only 3 frames are taken. The camera does not continue on and on as long as I hold the shutter down.

I have that lens. Picked it up used of Kijiji. Been happy with it. Great for creating unique perspectives. I used it recently for some very close to the line (by the net) of volleyball. Got some cool shots.

I just got the X500 flash and it is very similar is size and performance to the Nikon SB800 that you (and me) have experience with. I use to have the Nikon SB600 and that was similar to the Fuji EF42. I only used it as a secondary light (and backup if needed) flash. I also have the Nissin i40. The the X500 is twice the $$ but it is twice the performer. For someone that is a serious or pro photographer, the X500 (for TTL) is a solid choice. The cost of it matches what I paid in the old days for the Nikon SB800 and SB900, and performance is equal.

Sounds like a Canon saboteur!

I agree. I think a bit more work may be required to fine tune the autofocus capabilities of the camera when in video mode. There is a known glitch when recording 4K and having the camera in manual focus (camera will randomly re-focus) ... maybe a few more tweaks will get done at the same time.

Hey! You guys talking about me.

Maybe there are ways to get AF-C to hold focus and not continually do micro adjustments to the focus while you record. Maybe some people find single point AF-C works better than multi-point AF-C? Or maybe they have face detection on while in AF-C? I haven't yet played around with those different settings when shooting video.

Oh ... I see what you are saying. I'll try to test myself and see what happens.

Bracketing on this camera is 3 images. Default exposure, then one brighter then one darker. When the camera is in burst mode, you get the intended 3 pic's for that one scene but if you continue to hold the shutter button, the camera will start a new series of 3 and keep doing that over and over. Unfortunately it doesn't work in a way that every image you take in burst mode is a slightly different exposure.

That is a quirk of the Fuji cameras. Was worse on XT1 but they released a firmware several months back that helped to reduce it. Your best bet is to leave the camera in AF-S and lock focus then start recording. The camera will not change focus again while video is recording. That's the best route. Or go manual focus and press the AF-L button to engage the autofocus .. then start your video recording. The results are the same either technique. The AF-C is best for when your subject or camera are moving.

Nissin is good for an on camera TTL requirement. For off camera, there are better, lower cost options such as the Cactus and Yongnou brands.

Nice!