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Therapeuo63 last won the day on August 10 2017

Therapeuo63 had the most liked content!

About Therapeuo63

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  1. I think the 14 f2.8 is one of Fuji's most underrated lenses, I can't imagine parting with it. I'm using the 14, 23f1..4, 35f2, 56 prime line up and it's just a killer combo. That said I'm not sure there is a better wide angle lens capable of bokeh like the 16 in any APS-C system.
  2. Will not fire flash. Works fine on X-T1 and X-T2. Cybersyncs work on the X100s fine so I suspect a compatibility issue. Does anyone know if this is a firmware issue or a fix? Would be nice to work with on transmitter/flash ecosystem on the different Fuji bodies. Thanks
  3. I have the same issue. One month old camera. X-T2s have an electrical issue and I'm surprised Fuji hasn't found this and fixed it. Some of them simply seize up...it just happens. It's not overheating, grips, faulty SD cards, or batteries...it's just a reliability or quality control issue and once the store's return period expires you have to rely on the warranty repair and invariably Fuji will not be able to duplicate the error. This is my conclusion after spending hours of researching this online this evening. If you are one of the unlucky owners you just have to deal with the gremlins. It's very unfortunate and some of us have this happen on paid shoots when we need these cameras to power up and function properly. With so many people experiencing these freezes they really should address it. I love Fuji and for now will stick with it but I would not recommend these cameras yet for paid professional work. They might get there but still not ready for prime time I'm afraid. The small form factor, excellent user interface and advantages of EVF can't compensate for a dead camera, puzzled photographer and a frustrated client.
  4. My relatively new X-T2 locked up during a paid shoot today. I was doing a shoot for a pilates studio and after finishing some outdoor headshots moved inside to start on some environmental shots. When I went to power the camera back on there was no power, totally locked up. Cycling power didn't help. I ended up removing the battery grip and the battery from the camera body, reinstalling the battery and it powered up for the rest of the session. Camera is about a month old, bought new from B&H, batteries were Fuji OEM batteries designed for the X-T2 with the "S" designation. Memory cards are garden variety SanDisk Extreme 16GB cards. Battery grip was in normal (not boost) mode. I was using the 56mm f1.2 lens and the 18-55 for the interior work. Batteries were fully charged the morning to the shoot. I also noticed the camera was sluggish when trying to review images in the LCD and show clients. Several times I would hit the review button and almost 5-8 seconds went by before the image would appear on the LCD. Sold my my Nikon gear when I bought the X-T2 (still have my X-T1). Maybe I shouldn't have...cant have frozen cameras for paid work. Any ideas? Thanks
  5. My X-T2 arrived today and I began the search for spare batts looking for the NP-126S vs the NP-126 "non S" aka X-T1. I realize the X-T1 batts can be used but I'm having difficulty finding non-Fuji batts specifically for the X-T2. All of the usual suspects such as Wasabi, Watson, Adorama's Green Machine etc for the X-T2 are all labeled NP-126. Am I missing something? Thanks
  6. Happening now at B&H and Adorama. $1399 shipped next day.
  7. B&H and Adorama are selling them with the $200 instant rebate, $1399 shipped next day.
  8. For those in the US B&H and Adorama are now selling X-T2s new with next day shipping for $1399 including some extras. That finally did it for me and I ordered one. Still keeping my X-T1 as a back-up.
  9. I'm facing the same dilemma and am on the fence with sticking with the D750 or going to the X-T2. I've been using the X-T1 and frankly there is simply no comparison with the D750. I seem to get much better results with far less effort from the Nikon. I can work much faster and find no discernible difference in the images coming out of my $350 Nikkor 85mm and the Fuji 56mm...none at all. The D750 will focus in near cave darkness without the focus assist lamp and it nails focus 100% of the time without fail. White balance is much easier and what I see on the monitor is much more consistent in bringing things into LR than than the X-T1. The high ISO is butter smooth and of course the depth of field from the full frame sensor seems like much more than just a single stop of bokeh. The problem is reliability. My D750 died today and had to go in for repair a 2nd time and wasn't even in the recalled batch. Moving into the realm of trying to become a part time professional and dead cameras simply can't happen. Ever. Yeah I know you need a backup. D750 is the lightest and smallest FX DSLR there is, which is the beauty of it. Unfortunately people are having all kinds of issues with the D750 mirror and shutters regardless of camera age or shutter count and in many cases Nikon either can't replicate the fault or the cameras come back with the same issue or worse. Going to a bigger DSLR of course means a massive delta in size and weight of the camera vs Fuji. No news yet on a follow up D760?? At the end of the day I may rent an X-T2 for a week and really give it a workout as opposed to wondering and guessing how I might like it and to really assess the differences vs the older X-T1 which I find very sluggish.
  10. Curious whether Godox speed lights labeled for Fuji can be controlled remotely off camera from Nikon DSLRs provided one is using the Nikon compatible X-1T transmitter? Or are the ecosystems pure and not cross-compatible? Thanks
  11. I've noticed when doing studio portraits that when I pull the images into LR on my Mac they appear about 1 stop underexposed. The images look great on my cameras LCD and look normally exposed. I did a comparison with my Nikon D7100 and what I see on camera matches my Mac perfectly. I guess I could adjust my X-T1 screen brightness down a bit (its set to default) to try and compensate but its still rather annoying. I like to nail the exposure perfectly in camera. Problem doesn't seem as prevalent when shooting in existing light/outdoors. Has anyone noticed this?
  12. Thanks folks...I'll check out the 90mm as well just to compare. I wish Fuji had a 135 f2...maybe that will come down the road.
  13. That website is FujiLove's magazine so I'm not sure what set up they were using with the YN-560 and the Godox. I have 2 SB-800 flashes. I have no problem triggering them optically using the X100's commander mode provided there is line of sight. I've triggered the SB-800s wirelessly using the X100s with Pocket Wizards, FlashQ triggers, Paul C Buff's Cybersync triggers and Nikon sync cables (as in my profile pic here). I have heard of compatibility issues with Yongnuo(YN) triggers and Nikon flashes so would avoid those.
  14. 2) I've read that Adobe's Camera RAW leaves much to be desired when it comes to resolving Fuji's RAW files. I'm very open to changing my software tools. I'd like to maintain the maximum possible detail from RAW files, however I perceive that at my skill level a tool like Perfectly Clear or Luminar would really help with the heavy lifting. I believe that ACR has gotten better with converting RAW Fuji files and much of the hubbub was from some time ago. It seems the problems were mostly with foliage in landscapes. Iridient Developer was the gold standard and might still be. It would also be worth checking out FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO 3) I've read that one of the greatest things about the X-series is the film emulation that is built-in. I normally have used Velvia with boosted color saturation and recorded in either RAW or RAW plus JPEG. LR, Perfectly Clear, Luminar and I assume CO, have a wide range of film emulations, styles, filters, etc. So is it generally better to use the various built-in film emulations or to use the options available in software for post-processing? Do the RAW files include the selected film emulation or do those only effect jpeg files? If you use Lightroom you can apply the Fuji film emulations in post processing. I think it is under the Camera Calibration menu. I shoot RAW plus Jpeg when using these so i can preview the result. 4) Batteries. Fuji or generic? Has anyone seen any difference in performance, charge duration, charging time, longevity, etc.? I had Wasabi brand batteries get stuck in my X-Pro 1 from warping. And they were brand new. There is a huge debate on this...some would never even consider off brands while others use off brand exclusively. It's a money issue. 5) What type of equipment do I need to get into portraiture (lighting, backgrounds) using my living room as a studio area? check out www.strobist.com for everything you need to know. Short answer is a couple of light stands, umbrellas, flash units and radio triggers. Seamless paper backgrounds and a background stand.
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