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ErikN

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About ErikN

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  1. I had the same concern when I upgraded from the X-T1 to the X-T2, but now that I have both I don't notice any size and weight difference. If I compared side by side and hold both I may feel it, but in practical use I don't notice any difference. What I do notice is that the X-T2 is much faster in operation. I have mine sent in for warranty service right now so I'm using my X-T1 and I miss things I had taken for granted after almost exclusively using the X-T2. Things like the live histogram, being able to easily show histogram when reviewing images without having to switch view mode, more extensive bracketing, the focus joystick freeing up the directional pad for function buttons. The list is long. It's also much faster in doing everything. I have also found that I can use slightly slower shutter speeds with non-stabilized lenses so the shutter shock has to be less on the X-T2. Focus performance is not even comparable. I also find the grip to be better on the X-T2. Dials easier to grip too. I don't miss the hold to turn style of lock used on the ISO dial on the X-T1. The X-T3 is basically an even better X-T2 so it's a huge upgrade from the X-T1. Also, the added resolution is a huge bonus for close-up if you want to crop to get even closer. I certainly notice the difference between my X-T1 and X-T2. I don't think you will have any issues with weight and feel. The slightly larger body is as I said hardly noticable to me, and the huge improvements in other areas more than make up for it. I think the X-T3 may make you want to go out and shoot even more than the X-T1 did. It still has the same great and fun feel even though it's a little different. They didn't ruin the magic of the X-T1 with the X-T2 at least. They just augmented the fun. I think the only question is if you feel it's worth the money. Of course this is only my experience. The best thing would be to check one out in a store, but I know that may not be an option. It certainly wasn't for me as no stores here sell Fujifilm X cameras (plenty of Instax though). I'd be happy to answer any further questions. Even though I haven't used the X-T3 it's more or less identical to the X-T2 except for the sensor and software features.
  2. I mean, I wouldn't discourage from using Fujifilm for an airshow if you got the equipment but if investing in gear specifically for fast paced tele action i just don't think Fuji is there yet. The X-T3 is supposed to be better but Nikon has amazing 3D tracking and I'm sure canon has something similar so I find it hard to recommend Fuji for this at the moment. For wildlife moving slowly or standing still it would work great but cricket and fast moving airplanes I'm not so sure about. Especially with the X-T1. Maybe someone else will have a different opinion but that's where I stand.
  3. Owning both an X-T1 and an X-T2 and having shot an airshow with the X-T2 I have to say there are better options out there for this kind of photography. The X-T2 did OK but the D7000 I owned previously did a much better job with tracking focus. I have decided to forget about using Fujifilm for long tele stuff and look for a Nikon D7100 or even D500 for the next big airshow. Probably paired with a Nikon 200-500. Knowing the X-T1 well I would say focus tracking would be disappointing at an airshow. I felt that the X-T2 barely kept up but it hunted quite a bit. I love my Fuji's but for fast action tele i would look elsewhere. Viewfinder blackout is also a concern with the X-T1 and it may make tracking a bit difficult. It can be done for sure, but at least I missed my D7000 at the last airshow.
  4. I can't find it in the regular exif, but apparently Fuji has proprietary tags for this, 0x1100 AutoBracketing and 0x1101 SequenceNumber. Unfortunately this isn't standardized so I guess we won't see it implemented in commercial software like Lightroom and Capture One.
  5. I'm sorry to say it, but this one needs to go back for repair/replacement. There's really no way around it.
  6. My X-T2 has had these lock-ups since day one. They happen more frequently when I have a flash or flash trigger in the hot shoe for some reason. I always use two cards in a backup configuration, and my cards are Sandisk Extreme Pro UHS-I cards. It could be a compatibility with the cards and that the camera is expecting faster write speeds, but it should not cause lock-ups just slower emptying of the buffer. I have had suggested that UHS-II cards may solve the issue, but they are still quite expensive, especially when I don't need the added performance. For me the only way to fix it is to pull the battery, either in the camera, or in the grip if it's attached. I have never had to remove the grip from the camera. No images have been lost, but all settings I've changed since powering the camera on have been lost. I seems to save changes when turned off, which makes sense given the limited write cycles of the memory often used in this type of equipment. I'm thinking of sending mine in to Fujifilm while I still have warranty, but from what I have read it may not solve anything.
  7. It's not possible as you've already been informed. I would love if brackets were marked as such in metadata. It would be easy for a manufacturer to implement. Just add a bracket flag and a counter. All photos would be marked as brackets and they would get numbered. This would have to be standardized though so that software could recognize this and automatically group these frames. Same for focus stacking. It's a dream I have had for a few years, but metadata standardization seems to be a slow and difficult process. This approach would allow for automatic detection and even automatic batch processing of brackets if desired. But right now, it can't be done reliability and certainly not in camera unfortunately.
  8. This happened to me today. I had charged my camera over USB after not using it for a couple of days (was at about 40% battery when I left it), and when it tuned it on to format the cards I found vertical light grey lines that were arranged like a vignette of lines rather than lack of light. I pointed my camera at something dark grey and the lines showed up, confirming that it was not a menu rendering issue. I'll have to check later if they have disappeared. Weird issue.
  9. That's interesting. I wonder how it affects the weather sealing
  10. ...and it's slow. Test setup Wireless access point: Ubiquiti Unifi AP Pro, gigabit ethernet backbone Computer: MacBook Pro Retina 15" (Early 2013), gigabit ethernet with official Apple adapter Software: Fujifilm X-Aquire Camera: X-T2, Uncompressed RAW, no JPEG. Results First transfer took 67 seconds, which gives a transfer rate of ~0,75 MB/s (~6 Mbit/s). This was about 3,5 meter from the access point with a wall in between. Second transfer took 30 seconds, 1 meter from the access point, which gives a transfer rate of ~1,64 MB/s (~13,2 Mbit/s) nothing but air in between. The wireless features of the X-T2 seems to be quite weak. Signal reported from the access point for the camera was -66dBm in the first scenario, and -48dBm in the second. Quite a huge drop. In comparison my Nexus 5X phone has a signal of -57 dBm in the same place as the first scenario. Negotiated transfer rates reported by the access point were 52 M TX, 65 M RX for the first scenario, and 75 M TX, 65 M RX for the second. Transferring a fine 15 MB JPEG would take ~20 seconds in the first scenario, and ~9 in the second. I'll stick with USB 3
  11. I have both the 18-55 and 18-135, but not the 16-55. The reason I got the 18-135 is that I wanted a weather sealed lens (it was the only one at the time), and something a bit longer. I have very mixed feeling about this lens. It has good image quality in some situations, but often produces images that are slightly soft (especially at 135. Forget using apertures larger than f/8. 5.6 is very soft at the borders and edges at 135). It's decent to good up to about 100 mm, but it lacks the microcontrast and clarity that is present in other Fujifilm lenses. It's good for a superzoom I guess, but it's not up to the Fujifilm XF standard in my opinion. I would very much prefer something like a 16-70 or 16-80 WR lens and a separate telephoto zoom. It hasn't seen much use since I got my X-T2. I feel that it can't really handle the extra resolution over the X-T1. I want to like it, and I sometimes do, it just comes a bit short of my expectations most of the time.
  12. So, I did a time lapse yesterday, and it would have been great to be able to create a custom setting that set all parameters at once, instead I had to go through and set most of them one by one, and then remember to set them all back, since reverting to my C1 setting only changes a few of them back. In this case I needed RAW only and electronic shutter which aren't saved. Not a big deal, but being able to quickly swap into a complete set would be very useful. Although I understand that settings that have a physical dial or switch would be in conflict and should not be saved, I still think things like RAW/JPEG, shutter mode, AF mode and all other settings that doesn't have a physical dial or switch should be saved. I don't really see a reason for settings that have physical controls to be in the quick menu in the first place.
  13. Should be as easy as selecting any shutter speed, T or A on the dial.
  14. That unfortunately sound like something that needs to be checked out by Fujifilm. I was thinking that the lens contacts could maybe need cleaning, but then you wrote that it started shooting by itself with the 100-400. I have had a couple of lock-ups that required removing the battery, when I used a third party flash that was probably poorly seated in the hotshoe. Hasn't happened since.
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