steviewonder

I'm looking at my Fuji 100-400mm lens right now and can assure you it has a 77mm filter thread. Who on earth claimed it was 82mm?

It would be helpful if you indicated what aperture you are using and where in the frame you are focusing.

While many folks talk about the magic of the f/1.4 lenses, they both (23 and 35) need an update. They are heavier, slower to focus and more expensive than the f/2.0 lenses. If you stop them down a bit, there is no discernible difference in IQ between the f/1.4 and f/2.0 lenses. I prefer lighter and faster focusing. For landscapes, it depends on your POV; I shoot both wide (10-24 mm) and long to compress hills and mountains (100-400 mm). I have the 18-55 but love the 16-55 f/2.8 despite the lack of OIS. The 56 mm is very nice for portraits but slow focusing and not as effective for street photography.

I would recommend one of the f2 lenses (23 or 35) as they focus quite fast. The 23 and 35 mm 1.4 lenses have beautiful bokeh but are heavier, more expensive and slow focusing. The 56 mm lens is great for portraits but is not a good street lens as it is also slow. You need lots of light to shoot at nighttime and the traditional point of view for street photography is 35 mm (which is 23 mm on a cropped sensor).

If you focus somewhat into the scene at f/16 your DOF will provide sharpness closer to you (1/3) and away from you (2/3). I think 2 or 3 shots for landscape is adequate. Its macro stuff that benefits most from this feature, where 20 or more shots are needed..

If non-Fuji, then Tamron and Sigma both make 150-600 mm lenses.

The Fuji 50-140 is perfect for sports and weddings while the Fuji 100-400 is for wildlife.

Are you using MS or ES? Banding is known to occur with the electronic shutter, particularly in certain lighting situations. I have not heard of it occurring with the mechanical shutter.

I don't think so. Great for portraits but I'd use the 50-140 or 100-400 for sports.

I used aperture priority on my Nikon D800 and on my XT-2 most of the time. The exception is when shooting wildlife or sports. If you want creative control, as others above have posted, get off program mode!

This is not unique to Fuji. All cameras with APS-C sensors have a "multiplication" factor as the sensor is smaller than those on full-frame cameras, whose sensors are the same as the 35 mm standard. With Nikon, it is 1.5 times the lens (e.g. a 50 mm lens on a D7100 is equivalent to 75 mm full frame); with Canon its a 1.6 factor for their APS-C lenses (50 mm is equivalent to 80 mm full frame). You can't have a 85 mm lens be 85 mm equivalent unless you have a full frame camera. Make sense?

Which iPhone do you have? It won't work with older ones. like the iPhone 4.

It is more solid than my Nikon 50 mm f/1.8 lens. The 35 mm f/2 is a lovely lens.

I use back button focusing with the af-l button and the shutter button is only for taking the photo. I am almost always in "C" mode so I can recompose easily with BB focusing without the shutter messing things up. I would never go back to shutter focusing and using the shutter button to focus defeats the purpose of BB focusing.

There are often diffraction problems when the lens is closed down too much. It is often best to shut down at least one step from the maximum. There is another important consideration in depth of field, and that is where you focus. In general, twice as much is in focus in the area beyond your focal point as in the area closer to you. What that means, is that you focus one third into your frame. That is not one third into the real distance in miles or kilometres, but one third into the photo you are framing in Live View (which BTW gives more accurate focusing). There are hyperfocal calculators galore available as apps, but if you frame your photo well (always the number one consideration), use a tripod and remote release, use a higher aperture (f/11, 13, 16 or 18) and focus one third into your frame, you're on the right track. I tried to upload some samples but for some reason LR won't let me export a 1000 kb image. I have some Palouse landscape photos on my flickr account, generally taken at f/11. https://www.flickr.com/photos/stephenlustig/