Gareth_E

I agree - both are fantastic lenses. My 35mm is nice and sharp at 1.4, with the only exception being objects near the close focus distance... for some reason it gets a bit hazy in that scenario and is not as sharp. but anything further away is fantastic.

This is what I have (apart from my 35mm is the 1.4), and I love it. the 90mm is so sublime that once I had used it, I had to get one and worked my other lenses around it (sold my 56mm 1.2). The reason I have the 1.4 35mm though, is so I have at least one fast lens for low light shooting. The 90mm is pretty fast of course being an f2, but because of the focal length you have to have the shutter speed higher accordingly.

yeah it would be great to be able to use the use the Q button

Bummer... sorry to hear that. When I had my X-T10 I remember the EVF being a little bit noisy in low light (as to be expected), but not as bad as you describe. Hopefully after the hassle of returning it and getting it replaced you will be a lot happier.

Do you have focus peaking on? That is likely to be the culprit. For some reason Fuji's focus peaking goes mad in low light and starts adding peaked 'pixels' all over the view giving it the impression of lots of noise. Go into your settings and make sure this is disabled, then try again and see what it's like.

It's hard to explain, I wish I'd have kept some of the shots I was testing them on. Obviously not regular lens distortion, as like you say - there are no elements int he tubes. It was almost like a general smearing / blurring around the edges of the frame (almost like a subtle zoom blur effect), with some very bad CA to boot. To be fair, this was probably due to having several tubes stacked in order to push the shorter lens I was using to 1:1 magnification. I am now using a 90mm so It would have been interesting to try the tubes again... but alas i've sold them now. But to be honest the thing that won me over with the Raynox products, is how quick they are to attach and remove at a moments notice. I could not be doing with the hassle of removing extension tubes out in the field everytime I wished to use my 90mm out of macro range. And as far as my (admittedly non scientific!) tests have shown so far, the Raynox 250 does not seem to incur any noticeable loss of sharpness or image degradation, which is beyond my expectation for something so inexpensive.

Despite his self promoting 'pro' advice, reading his reviews and articles smacks of nothing more than an enthusiastic amateur trying desperately to come across as more... but then with alarming regularity he will state an opinion as fact, that flies in the face of reason, or real working practices.

I wouldn't trust anything that Ken Rockwell has to say. This is the guy that refers to 'P' mode as Pro Mode.

My ultra portable solution - a Domke F5XB. It just about fits the following: X-T2, with 35mm 1.4 mounted (with hood on) 90mm f2 with third party short hood mounted 18-55 (couldn't squeeze a hood onto this one) Plus a couple of batteries, lens pen, wipes and microfibre cloth etc. It is pretty snug at the point to say the least but works! I do need a bigger bag for times when I need to carry more, but I'm a bit obsessed with carrying the smallest camera bag I can get away with! I recently bought a Tenba DNA 8, which has more pockets etc than the Domke, but I didn't get on with it as the flap doesn't fold behind the bag when open, which I find extremely annoying. My fault though - should have researched this more when I ordered it.

I have only 3 lenses, and that is all I plan on having for the time being: 1.) 18-55 2.) 35mm f1.4 3.) 90mm f2 I have a Raynox 250 I can quickly clip onto the front of the 90mm to make it an instant true 1:1 macro. I did have the 56mm 1.2, but sold it to get the 90mm. As fantastic a lens as the 56mm is, I never really liked the quality of the Bokeh. Yes there's lots of it, but I didn't really care for the 'soap bubble' effect. I much prefer how both the 35mm 1.4 and the 90mm render out of focus areas. So much smoother, and more like what i'm used to coming from DSLR.

Simple as that! Received my 90mm f2 today, and quickly clipped my Raynox 250 to the front and took a couple of test shots and was very impressed. Fantastic quality, and true 1:1 magnification. I had previously tried extension tubes and screw in close up filters (high quality ones though) on my 56mm 1.2, and was never satisfied with the final quality when approaching 1:1... there would be lots of distortion, aberrations etc. After reading some macro forums, someone suggested I try a Raynox 150 or 250 instead. I thought they looked cheap & nasty, and were suspiciously inexpensive, so I thought what the hell, and ordered one. I am very impressed. So much easier than extension tubes, as just quickly clips on to the front of the lens, and can be removed in a second to allow for regular shooting. Optically I cannot fault it. I just wish i'd found out about these ages ago! Anyway, here is a quick test shot of some moss in the garden with this combo... using the standard small XT-2 flash and a piece of paper help over the lens as a makeshift diffuser. Macro Moss by Gareth Edwards, on Flickr And here is the patch of moss next to the 35mm 1.4 lens cap for scale. Moss 35mm by Gareth Edwards, on Flickr Not bad huh! If you already own the 90mm, do yourself a favour and pick up a Raynox 250 for quick proper macro gratification!

In case anyone is interested, the R Luther buttons finally arrived today. I have applied one to the AE-L and AF-L buttons, and also to the front function button, making them MUCH easier to find. Vastly overpriced for what they are, but still... looks good and does the job!

I had an order with my local camera shop for weeks, and since launch date the only stock that Fuji have supplied them with so far was 2 bodies only (no kits yet). Which went instantly as you can imagine (luckily one was to me!) It seems like Fuji are drip feeding stock here and there in small numbers, which unfortunately means that for the moment they are still very hard to get hold of. Extremely frustrating I know!

Could be a software glitch... I had my XT-10 on the most recent firmware and didn't have this issue. Although I did get a bit sick of accidentally pressing buttons with my palm (and I only have small hands) so bit the bullet and purchased the horrendously overpriced Fuji Metal grip. It doesn't add much size/weight to the camera, but really does help to stop your hand pressing buttons whilst you work. Recommended!

This is true in terms of positioning, but on my X-T2 at least, the AE-L button is much harder to physically press. You almost have to press it with your thumb nail instead of your actual thumb. Not ideal at all.