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jlmphotos last won the day on October 16

jlmphotos had the most liked content!

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    New Jersey and Maine
  • Interests
    Apple Products, Travel and Landscape Photography - Not into street shooting at all.

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  1. Well I don't think Fuji will be re-designing lenses for a higher MP sensor. At least I don't think so. I do remember the days when I used my Nikon bevy of lenses on my D300, D700 and D3 which were 12mp cameras and then upgraded to the 36mp D800E beast. Honestly, other than having to manually fine-tune each lens to the D800 I did not see any degradation in image quality. But, these were all Nikon lenses; I'm not sure how third party lenses would have fared back then as I didn't own any. Personaly, if I were to by the XH-2, I would have no qualms whatsoever using ANY of my Fuji lenses with the upgraded 40MP Body.
  2. H Joel, I do ALL my preliminary culling in LR first. Quick pass through. The ones I'm not sure about, I'll round-trip to C1 and then I'll edit them in C1. I'll then bring them back to LR where I'll make a final determination as to the keepers. I also keyword extensively as I sell enlargements, as well quite a bit of stock every year. Thanks J
  3. I use LR for minimal adjustments and mostly for the digital asset management. I have over 250,000 images in LR right now. However, I use Capture One Pro for 95% of all my editing needs. My jpegs (from my GFX50r) are 40mb, and the TIFF's from raw are 310mb in size. My XT files are much smaller. I have folders set up in LR (which are actually on my desktop) where I drop files into. Then I open C1Pro and sync that folder which I have set as a preset in C1Pro. Once I'm done processing in C1, I export into another folder called "Roundtrip from C1Pro which is also a default in C1pro and in LR. Back in LR, I then synch that folder and any jpegs and tiffs I generated are dropped in there. I can then move the finished images to the library for cataloging, keywording etc. Sounds complicated but I have it setup automatically and it works flawlessly for me. Hope this helps.
  4. © © Jorge L Moro 2021

  5. once upon a time I was able to use my SB700 and SB800 on my XE-1 and XT-1. After I got the XT-2 and newer cameras I was unable to do so.
  6. Don't sell the 18-55~. That's my opinion. I own the 16-55 2.8 and TWO copies of the 18-55. Though the 16-55 is a tad sharper, clearer, and has truer color reproduction I still use my 18-55 due to it's lightweight. And, unless you are comparing them side-by-side honestly you can't tell. If it were me, well it is me: I'd keep the 18-55 for those times you just want to grab and go without all the extra weight.
  7. Keep us posted. I'd be curious what Fuji determines it to be. Thanks
  8. That white line is sensor damage. I experienced that with my old Fuji Finepix S1Pro and Fuji Edison repaired it under the Pro service waaaaaay back in 2005.
  9. The 16 1.4 will certainly work on the XPRO2 and 3 and pretty much every X series (including my old XT1. For landscapes you may want to consider the 10-24 F4 which has been updated with weather resistance, etc. The 16 1.4 is my go to for Astro photography, and I also own the 16-55 2.8 - another EXCELLENT lens but heavier.
  10. IT's a "suggestion". Have you tried it? If it doesn't work, it could be a power issue.
  11. Not sure of your age bracket but if you've ever shot film you are basically using a "film simulation". When I shot film I'd use Vericolor 120 for portraits, or Kodak Kodacrhome ISO 25 or Fuji Velvia ISO 25 pushed to ISO32 for serious colors especially greens. As others here have said shoot jpeg + raw. If you just want to pop JPEGS right out of the oven (don't know why anyone would do that but...) you can create your own profile and make of the image what you want. You can make it as flat - think F-log - or the full monty: Velvia. You do have choices which honestly I did not when I was shooting Nikon D300, d3, and D800/D800e years ago.
  12. Get yourself an "L" Bracket. This one cost me under 30 bucks on eBay brand new. I also have it on my GFX camera body as well. This tightens up on the tripod, no bottom plate needed on the camera, no rubber wearing down. and you can just swap it vertically and horizontally w/o losing your composition. IMG_9708.HEIC
  13. IF you just purchased it, take it back. Mine takes about 1-2 seconds if that.
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