Isaac Hilman

- Increased frames for Bracketing (2-9). - Increase the maximum allowed time selection in T mode, not maxing out at 30 seconds. - Increased frames in Multi-Exposure mode (2-9), as well as an Auto Gain on / off setting, AND make it produce RAF files instead of only JPG. (I used to love Multiple Exposures on my Nikon FX cameras, but feel like it's just a minor afterthought in the Fuji cameras.) It even has it's own spot on the drive dial, so please make it shine!

The Eastern Edge of Vancouver Island, Victoria BC by Isaac Hilman, on Flickr Fuji XT-1, Rokinon 12mm, 10 Stop ND + Graduated ND Filters, 45 second Exposure.

Ahh, that's awesome! With every new model or update, Fuji steps up their game. I've only got the XT-1 right now, so I didn't know this had been implemented. Still waiting on my XT-2 to arrive in the mail, should be here next week!

Not entirely. I love the look of lot's of the SOOC Jpegs I see coming out of Fuji Cameras. I would suggest turning your Noise Reduction in Camera down though, at least -1, and maybe even your sharpness down to -1. (I usually have mine set at -2 LR, and -1 Sharpness). A Good test for you might be; Find a scene that you can easily mimic the watercolor paint-like effect when photographed. (Thick trees, foliage, bushes, and grass can do this). Then set your camera on a tripod. Take photos with your settings Defaulted, then + and - your Sharpness / Noise Reduction one point each photo between each shot, and review on your LCD each time. You'll probably come across a setting that reduces the look of the wormy artifacts eventually, and then keep it there. First Photo: NR: 0, SH: 0, Second photo: NR: -1, SH: 0 Third photo: NR: -2, SH: 0 Then try the NR 0, and SH -1, or -2, or -2 NR and +1 or 2 sharpening. I'm thinking that you'll find a setting that reduces the appearance of the artifacts. I think one thing that would help this, is if Fuji also added a menu option for "Film Grain" that could be set just like the other +/- variables. I would love to see that, especially for JPEG shooters.

Many of the raw developers and editing software out there should have a function to remove CA, as they're quite common. Lightroom does an excellent job, just to name one. But if you searched which editing suites could handle it, I'm sure you'd find a decent list. Best of luck!

Ahh right, the X-Transformer is only PC right now . Pretty sure Iridient mentioned somewhere about working on the MAC version though, which will be great. I never did try the Developer, I'm kinda set in my LR / PS workflow, ha.

Yeah, I tried most of the NR + Sharpening settings with Iridient, but felt they didn't quite do what I wanted. Also, not being able to mask which areas to sharpen is no good. I use Iridient for the straight conversion, but all of the other aspects get worked on in other programs (Lightroom + Photoshop). Super happy that I no longer have oil-paint foliage and grass in my photos!

Although running those XT-2 files through Iridient will drastically improve them as well ! Just recently started using the program too, and love how it handles RAF files!

XT-2 (prefer the multi-tilt screen, and the dslr style) Bought an XT-1 just this christmas to test before deciding on if I wanted an XT-2, or would save my money. I owned and enjoyed the X100s, but preferred dlsr style cameras. I love the XT-1 so much, that I've sold all of my Nikon FX Camera gear to buy more lenses + XT-2. The new camera should be coming in the mail in a few days , and I am excited!

I would have to agree! But could you provide any details for everyone, please (software, process, computer)? I think a lot of people in here are hoping to find usable solutions to the muddy / paint-like effect of the X-Trans, and different processes may offer better solutions for some. (the Iridient X-Transformer is in PC beta at the moment, so not everyone can work with it).

Yep, that's a great image to show what the effect looks like. The exact thing that Iridient seems to remove so well. The big issue is how most software demosaics the X-Trans sensor pixel layout. "A demosaicing (also de-mosaicing, demosaicking or debayering) algorithm is a digital image process used to reconstruct a full color image from the incomplete color samples output from an image sensor overlaid with a color filter array (CFA). It is also known as CFA interpolation or color reconstruction." Fuji's X-Trans has a non-bayer type sensor, instead they've created a new RGB Pixel layout that they say is inspired by traditional film (Which is why they can emulate their classic Fuji film looks so well!). They are in a more randomized order, instead of the traditional ordered structure of the bayer sensor. Most software programs are used to the bayer type sensor, and demosaic an image using that algorithm method. For some reason it produces oil-paint-like textures when they attempt to demosaic Fuji X files. But, every file that I've ran through the Iridient program have had the muddy paint effect completely removed, leaving sharp images behind. It seems like they've figured out a good algorithm to decode the Fuji X-Trans sensors. I've only had it for a few days, but I now process 100% of my images through it. It just does an excellent job!

Alright. I took the RAF file posted here by Graflex, and ran it through the Iridient + LR process I do to all of my images before working on them (the settings mentioned in the post I listed earlier). Here is a Google Drive link to the full 16bit TIFF export. (mind you it's very large, 92mb!) https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzSuTVfzBjhQc3BIWGRLOTFCeVE The watercolor problem is completely gone! Here's a JPG of the side by side comparison. Left is the imported but otherwise unaltered RAF in lightroom, the right side is after the iridient + lr steps. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzSuTVfzBjhQTEl4eDRmcjFnN2M The left side is muddy / watercolor, the right side is sharp and clear.

I can definitely try that this evening. I use Iridient X-transformer (PC only?) for the first phase (mostly to demosaic the image), and then add slight sharpening / NR in Lightroom (default settings, aside from some masking on the sharpening and a very small bit of noise reduction). The results, even with the luminance noise reduction, are sharper images with zero visible watercolor artifacts. I'll go out later this afternoon and try to snap a grassy / foliage photo that shows the watercolor paint look and upload the plain RAF, plus a copy after I've used Iridient + Lightroom to set the base sharpening / nr. [Edit]: Couldn't make it home quick enough after work, and so I lost the daylight. Some of OP's files look like perfect candidates for the watercolor effect, those would be great to test things on.

Hey everyone! I just wrote up a new blog post this morning outlining the settings I use for Iridient X-Transformer (Windows PC version) + Lightroom, which completely removes this muddy / watercolor texture problem - leaving with a perfect looking image file to work with. It's pretty easy if you batch import with Iridient - using the settings i outline, and then import into Lightroom with a quick Preset I developed. Everything is in the post, please check it out! I think you'll be very happy with the final result. Cheers! Note: I was shooting with a Fuji XT-1, and have yet to try it on one of the new 24.3mp sensors. Please try it and let me know what you find out!

I've just written up a new blog post here, outlining the settings I've worked out to get the most out of Iridient Digital's new X-Transformer conversion software. I did some rather rigorous testing over the past couple of days, to see if I can find an optimal starting point when working with Iridient + Lightroom. I was searching everywhere for suggested settings, but it being such a new product I was unable to find any real direction. Please have a read, and let me know what you think! I think the results are wonderful, but would love to hear others opinions. This is just a base starting point, prior to any further processing, but it makes a freshly converted X file look perfect. Cheers; Isaac