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Chucktin's Achievements

  1. I guess you mean your purchase was thru B&H. But I doubt you want to do that. Have you tried a reset back to factory configuration? BE WARNED - THIS WILL NULLIFY ANY PERSONAL CONFIGURATION CHANGES YOU MAY HAVE MADE. On my X Pro 2 there's a menu selection -> USER SETTING -> RESET.
  2. I HATE the placement of the Q button on my XPro 2 body. Wish Fuji had put it around the corner (to the right) some more. And you guys are complaining that it went away.
  3. My 18mm/f2 is back at Fuji for repair. Third time,third lens! Killing my enthusiasm for Fuji.
  4. I got my XPro2 to work with my Nikon F manual lenses. Did have to hunt down that "Shoot without Lens" setting! Generally I find Fuji's menu structure to be less than comfortable for me. But then I've been Nikon since school, 1960-ish. Backyard Bluebirds with Nikkor f8/500mm mirror lens.
  5. Well drat it all. The 18mm f:2 quit again. WTF!? I wonder what Fuji will say this time.
  6. The Fujifilm website has most of what your wanting. try this URL: http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/
  7. Thanks I'm working to figure this out. Funny these cards are faster enough in my Nikons just slow in my X Pro-2. I've done a reset of the shooting settings, but something's still eluding me. I love the Fuji for its size and weight. but the menu is clear as mud. I've spent 10 of years with Nikon hardware and only 2-3 with Fuji so the intricacies of the Fuji menu leave me in the dust. To help I've ordered a pair of faster SDs, Lexar 64 GB/1000X, for the Fuji - should help. Now I need to dig into the menu to see what the bleep is going on.
  8. I use Sandisk Extreme Pro 64 GB SD cards in both slots. They are also labeled 95 MB/s SD V30, XC I, U3 10. I can get 2-3 shots then the camera pauses. PITA, am I using too slow a card?
  9. Entirely wrong. Better low light performance is better electronic circuits with an advance in the signal to noise ratio ie better amplification.
  10. Hmm, Alien Skin Software's Exposure X3, Mac or Widows versions, about $199.00, free demo download. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  11. I don't know Pictorial nor Alien Software Exposure X3. If they are faster they are worth a look. But do you know of actual test data? Say Lightroom vs Irident vs Pictorial vs X3 to convert RAFs to Tiff's? In a batch of 10, batch of 100, batch of 1000? (I'll say up front that converting 1000 has got to be a commercial event.) Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  12. You are possibly SOL. I have seen this on bad SD cards before. You've got to remember that what you're seeing on the camera's LCD is a subset of the image that was recorded. I think that to speed up the raster processing Canon, Nikon, Fuji, Sony, etc all keep a boiler plate version of the SD card in nRAM then just paste in the thumbnail version of the image(s). Due to the position of the thumbnail in the image file this works for a while but after repeated views of the card's contents the refresh erases the path string and hence the image data. If you've still got the Raw image data you are Holden, if not ... "that's life". Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  13. Thanks, setting up new Win 10 desktop, this should help. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  14. I shoot RAW + Jpegs but only cause wifie hates to process Raw files. Sorry to tell you but I'm betting you have to shoot Raw files plus process the sky as an extra step to bring out stars.I'd import into PS thru Bridge 2 copies of the same image. Copy 1 I'd adust in Raw for the foreground exposure (that washes out the sky), copy 2 I'd adjust in Raw to bring out the stars. Then I'd sandwich the 2 with the sky over the foreground, _dupe_ both layers, add another (layer 5) foreground, fill bottom layer with white _only_, this will layer is handy for cropping. Now you got bottom to top, white canvas, foreground (hide this), Sky (hide also), foreground 2, Sky 2. Now hide the sky and work on Forgound - color, brightness, etc. DO NOT correct size or perspectives yet! Switch to Sky, color, brightness, etc. Switch back to foreground, hide sky. Select the elements you like, own tool or lasso, etc. Invert the selection and delete. DO NOT Deselect yet. Switch to Sky, invert and delete. Save that selection just in case. Save as PSD at this point. Now if you're happy you can merge to processed foreground + sky and correct the size and perspective. The white canvas may show thru to enhance the stars but I've found it useful at the perspective correction above. Happy again? You did work on copies, not originals, didn't you? Flatten, sharpen for print or view, save as Tiff, save as JPEG. Done. That's a work flow I adopted, painfully, YMMV of course. Happy Phtoshopping. Cvt Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  15. Are you using jpegs? Jpegs "simplify" shadows (can you say night sky?) then highlights for the sake of compression. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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